L322 touring

[bikeman]

Has anyone done much long distance touring in their TDV8? I intend to tow a smallish off road van visiting all the usual spots, eg Kimberleys, the Plenty, Simpson, I have never been there, Vic high country etc. What I would like to know is, are there service garages that would be able to work on these cars in more remote areas. I would have mine completely serviced etc before heading out. Basic stuff I can do myself.
What are your experiences?
Thanks.
Phil.

[rar110]

My experience has been that no one wants to touch a LR. The response is often “sorry we don’t stock Land Rover parts”.

The 3.6 tdv8 is a good reliable motor. But one look under the bonnet at the maze of fuel, air and coolant hoses gives an indication of the number of hoses that can let go. For example about a year ago one of the plastic connectors on a fuel line to the filter let go and fuel was pouring out everywhere with the motor going. The hose was good but plastic connector spontaneously broke. I was close to home so was able to drive it home with a trail of fuel to my drive way. A 5 min easy job to change the hose after I got the specific part.

[p38arover]

My experience has been that no one wants to touch a LR. The response is often “sorry we don’t stock Land Rover parts”

I couldn't even get an oil and filter change done in Derby on our Discovery 1 - and I had the parts and a workshop manual. "Land Rovers are too hard to work on". Any Disco 1 owner will tell you changing the oil and filter ain't rocket science.

I ended up doing it in the driveway of a fellow forum member.

[rar110]

I should add that I think the L322 3.6 is a fantastically capable & comfortable tourer. I like the rear shock set up for corrugations for three reasons: one the shock sits outside the air spring so has a better opportunity to cool if worked heavily; you can visually inspect/feel the shock for heat/leaks; and the standard rear left and right shock is interchangeable and so only requires one spare.

If contemplating a remote trip I would replace the front struts/springs (if original) with Delphi OEMs, replace the induction (intercooler) hoses with quality silicone hoses (Roverlord has a good supplier), replace the fuel hoses (mainly for the plastic connectors), replace the main coolant hoses, if more than 150,000km on the clock replace alternator or have a new one at home ready for someone to post, blank off the EGRs and ideally remove the EGRs and related coolant hoses (emulators or remap required), have the trans flushed by a ZF agent (unless confident DIY), and change diff and trans case oils. Don’t underestimate the alternator replacement need. If it fails it’s a show stopper, possibly kill your battery and tray top home. It happened to me. These can fail anytime after 100,000km. Mine failed at 240,000km but could have been replaced previously.

The above will help ensure you won’t need to go near a repairer.

Another thing you could do if car has over 100,000km is have repairer remove trans case to inspect and re-lubricate the trans output shaft. These have a bit of a reputation for wearing until the splines let go and no drive. This happened to me at about 230,000km mark, but has happened much earlier on other D3/RRS/L322s with the same 6hp26 trans. A check and relube is a lot cheaper than a trans overhaul.

[bikeman]

I took an 07 for a run yesterday, I am totally amazed at these. Smooth, powerful, comfortable, easy to drive, especially after a classic. I am doing some research on a couple at present. I have a very good indy mechanics and repairer who have tdv8's so they are aware of ll the pit falls. I will have plenty of time to prepare the car before heading off.
Thanks for all your input, as I have said before, the more I read, the more I learn.
Cheers,
Phil.

[Blade74]

I should add that I think the L322 3.6 is a fantastically capable & comfortable tourer. I like the rear shock set up for corrugations for three reasons: one the shock sits outside the air spring so has a better opportunity to cool if worked heavily; you can visually inspect/feel the shock for heat/leaks; and the standard rear left and right shock is interchangeable and so only requires one spare.

If contemplating a remote trip I would replace the front struts/springs (if original) with Delphi OEMs, replace the induction (intercooler) hoses with quality silicone hoses (Roverlord has a good supplier), replace the fuel hoses (mainly for the plastic connectors), replace the main coolant hoses, if more than 150,000km on the clock replace alternator or have a new one at home ready for someone to post, blank off the EGRs and ideally remove the EGRs and related coolant hoses (emulators or remap required), have the trans flushed by a ZF agent (unless confident DIY), and change diff and trans case oils. Don’t underestimate the alternator replacement need. If it fails it’s a show stopper, possibly kill your battery and tray top home. It happened to me. These can fail anytime after 100,000km. Mine failed at 240,000km but could have been replaced previously.

The above will help ensure you won’t need to go near a repairer.

Another thing you could do if car has over 100,000km is have repairer remove trans case to inspect and re-lubricate the trans output shaft. These have a bit of a reputation for wearing until the splines let go and no drive. This happened to me at about 230,000km mark, but has happened much earlier on other D3/RRS/L322s with the same 6hp26 trans. A check and relube is a lot cheaper than a trans overhaul.

Really good advice from RAR110.
My alternator went at 100000kms. If I still have the car at 200000kms I will just change the alternator.
Also make sure the battery is fairly newish if doing a trip.
Sometimes the battery can be ok and start the car but can throw up faults all over the place.
Even a standard battery test won’t always show the battery being bad.

[DiscoMick]

Get a good service, buy a service kit of filters, oils etc and pack it, and get the highest level of motoring organisation membership available, so you can get trucked home if necessary, and you should be fine. People do do it in L322s, you just don't hear about them.
Any mechanic who refuses to work on a Land Rover is incompetent and not worth allowing near your vehicle anyway. I mean, I'm no mechanic, but I used to do oils and filters on our D1. It's not quantum physics.

[PhilipA]

On Just about every Range Rover Club long trip in the many years I was a member an L322 failed to proceed.

In most cases it was air suspension faults and unless you have a resetting tool, you are faced with going to a dealer in a major centre. On one trip one member had to drive from Mildura to Adelaide on the bump stops which prompted the club to buy a tool.
Regards PhilipA

[p38arover]

I've had the L322 for 4 years and no EAS issues, unlike the P38A. However, I did replace the original front struts a couple of years back.

[Graeme]

The suspension resetting tool is only required for pre MY07. Terrain Response was introduced for MY07 which operates similarly to the D3 and RRS of the same era.

[rar110]

I have a MY08 L322, and never had an EAS failure.

[Graeme]

I should add that I think the L322 3.6 is a fantastically capable & comfortable tourer. I like the rear shock set up for corrugations for three reasons: one the shock sits outside the air spring so has a better opportunity to cool if worked heavily; you can visually inspect/feel the shock for heat/leaks; and the standard rear left and right shock is interchangeable and so only requires one spare.

The rear CVDs fitted to the later L322s can be swapped left to right if the original top bracket is re-used. However the reservoir attached to the side of the shock is at slight risk of being hit by flying rocks from the front wheels although mine get a fair pounding and have survived to now be too soft when towing the van. I could take a worn one without its top bracket as a spare on a remote area trip.

[CSBrisie]

I did a lot of towing with my 4.4sdv8 and did Brisbane to Uluru via the Plenty, with the wife and tin lids and had a brilliant trip with no issues other than loose battery terminals after the very corrugated Plenty. I did change rear shocks early -80000kms- but then I did own a second hand 21 foot Bushtracker caravan which was close to 2.8t - empty! (Original owner built it with 5 x 80l water tanks)..... never actually filled them of course !

[Graeme]

At 108K kms mine's rears were under-damping by a fair margin at 100 kph on badly-undulating surfaces towards the end of the return journey from Alice Springs with my 2.5T van's 300 kg ball weight. Switching DSC off which stiffens the valving halved the bounce but still unsatisfactory. They now feel just a little soft without the van but replacements should arrive before starting a 2-week outback SA trip at the end of next week.

[rar110]

At 108K kms mine's rears were under-damping by a fair margin at 100 kph on badly-undulating surfaces towards the end of the return journey from Alice Springs with my 2.5T van's 300 kg ball weight. Switching DSC off which stiffens the valving halved the bounce but still unsatisfactory. They now feel just a little soft without the van but replacements should arrive before starting a 2-week outback SA trip at the end of next week.

What the damage for two variable dampeners?

[Graeme]

498 GBP including freight for Bilsteins ex Duckworths, being approx $930. The fronts are double the price and genuine LR are 50% more ex UK.

[rar110]

498 GBP including freight for Bilsteins ex Duckworths, being approx $930. The fronts are double the price and genuine LR are 50% more ex UK.

That’s a pretty good price. [emoji106]

[Graeme]

The rear CVDs fitted to the later L322s can be swapped left to right if the original top bracket is re-used.IToday I discovered that these shocks cannot be swapped left and right because there is an extension sleeve in the bottom bush that locates in the suspension arm.