LT95a 6x6 third axle output as input?

[headdamage]

Has anyone tried using the 6x6 output on an LT95a as an input for an electric drive? Seems like you could use this an a budget hybrid drive for limited electric only distances like in heavy slow urban traffic or an extra boost of power in conjunction with the main engine on hills perhaps. This is assuming the 6x6 output is not being used in a 6x6 vehicle and is otherwise not doing anything useful.

The British Military experimented with a similar hybrid concept at one time but I don't think they used the LT95. The LT95 seems like it would be perfect for this.

I have an LT95a with the 6x6 output on it, I don't have a 6x6 and it is driving me nuts that I'm not likely to have a use for it. Any other good uses of this drive other than building a 6x6, which is likely beyond my skill level?

[JDNSW]

Effectively it is a road speed PTO. And it should work perfectly well for a hybrid, or, for that matter a pure EV.

[Blknight.aus]

already mathed up..

yep, should handle up to about 30KW of input without issue.

MY plan is to permanant mount the electric motor to the drive and then use a dog connection to the rear shaft.

it means both sides of the motor become drive elements.

[Blknight.aus]

Has anyone tried using the 6x6 output on an LT95a as an input for an electric drive? Seems like you could use this an a budget hybrid drive for limited electric only distances like in heavy slow urban traffic or an extra boost of power in conjunction with the main engine on hills perhaps. This is assuming the 6x6 output is not being used in a 6x6 vehicle and is otherwise not doing anything useful.

The British Military experimented with a similar hybrid concept at one time but I don't think they used the LT95. The LT95 seems like it would be perfect for this.

I have an LT95a with the 6x6 output on it, I don't have a 6x6 and it is driving me nuts that I'm not likely to have a use for it. Any other good uses of this drive other than building a 6x6, which is likely beyond my skill level?

powered trailer?

[cripesamighty]

As Dave suggested, the 101 had a powered trailer.

[JDNSW]

Thinking of how successful the powered trailer was, I question the use of the term "good use" in that context. If wondering about what could possibly go wrong, consider the situation when the trailer is at an angle to the vehicle, and the vehicle's rear wheels lose traction - perhaps helped by the fact that the trailer wheels, although travelling on a sharper curve than the rear of the vehicle, are travelling at the same speed.

[Blknight.aus]

Given that its a selectable drive option....

user discretion..

but yes, the 101 using a powered trailer was prone to getting shoved about when the trailer drive was engaged, the trailer was loaded and turns approaching hook up limits were attempted on slippery ground. (in theory in just the right conditions it would also help to turn a vehicle over)

[grey_ghost]

The British Army trialled the 101 with a powered trailer - but it was prone to tipping the 101 on it’s side (the one is a bit light in the rear end). The project was abandoned. I have some grainy footage of a 101 with a powered trailer doing army trials.

[headdamage]

Yes I've looked into the powered trailer option but it seems to be questionable as to it's safety.

[JDNSW]

Possibly be OK with some sort of fluid coupling in the drive train to the trailer.

[Blknight.aus]

Possibly be OK with some sort of fluid coupling in the drive train to the trailer.

the VC from a borg warner Tcase out of a rangie would be perfect.

[goingbush]

heres the one the Poms did, report mentions a couple of Defenders too.

The Dunsfold Collection :: The Dunsfold Collection (http://www.dunsfoldcollection.co.uk/collection/military/ser-iii-military-electric-drive-prototype)

[headdamage]

Yes the 1975 Series 111 109” 1993 Electric Drive evaluation vehicle is what I was thinking of. I read an article in an LRO mag years ago and the concept has always interested me. I've often wondered why no one was doing this.

[goingbush]

A friend of mine has Installed a Telma Retarder on the PTO output of his Iveco Daily 4x4 , The way the TC is designed the PTO is on the back of the input shaft & can accept about 2600Nm .

It would have cost no more to mount an Electric Motor which in regen mode could provide braking effort as good as the retarder & the bonus being he could convert the braking energy to help power the vehicle .

You could also put TC in neutral (as in this video) & run up the motor in regen mode via the diesel engine to charge the Traction batteries if need be .



https://youtu.be/SvJLherxBMU

[cjc_td5]

You would ideally need some form of reduction gear as an electric motor is efficient too fast for the drivetrain in high range (5000rpm)?

[headdamage]

I may have screwed this up but I believe that with 33" tires and a 3.54 diff the the prop shaft should be turning approximately 2243 rpm at 100 kph. The 6x6 third axle drive/pto turns at the same speed.

[cjc_td5]

Or coming the other way, 4th gear is 1:1 so highway speed is close enough to 3000rpm engine and prop shaft speed.

That's why you need a reduction gear on the electric motor. It won't be happy at <2000rpm and will stall. Or disconnect the engine and run the transfer in low range.

[Blknight.aus]

Or coming the other way, 4th gear is 1:1 so highway speed is close enough to 3000rpm engine and prop shaft speed.

That's why you need a reduction gear on the electric motor. It won't be happy at <2000rpm and will stall. Or disconnect the engine and run the transfer in low range.

6 9 or 12 pole motor with variable frequence driver

[goingbush]

AC51 3 phase motor works fine in top gear in my Landy, though I have 4.75 diffs , ~ 4300 RPM @ 100kph , but it works right from Zero RPM and Regen braking works right down to about 10kph in top gear . Its got a Landrover flywheel bolted to it so I've rev limited it to 6000RPM, don't want the old flywheel exploding.

Though a 2.5:1 planetary reduction box is not a bad idea.

[cjc_td5]

AC51 3 phase motor works fine in top gear in my Landy, though I have 4.75 diffs , ~ 4300 RPM @ 100kph , but it works right from Zero RPM and Regen braking works right down to about 10kph in top gear . Its got a Landrover flywheel bolted to it so I've rev limited it to 6000RPM, don't want the old flywheel exploding.

Though a 2.5:1 planetary reduction box is not a bad idea.You've said previously Don that you had your electric motor on direct 1:1 drive stalling at crawl speeds?

Mated to a diesel engine at 1:1, the power bands are arse about? With a TDi for instance you really want the electric motor providing the kick from zero rpm, then the diesel taking over as the turbo spools up? So the electric motor would have to be geared lower than 1:1?

[goingbush]

You've said previously Don that you had your electric motor on direct 1:1 drive stalling at crawl speeds?

Mated to a diesel engine at 1:1, the power bands are arse about? With a TDi for instance you really want the electric motor providing the kick from zero rpm, then the diesel taking over as the turbo spools up? So the electric motor would have to be geared lower than 1:1?

Yes indeed but thats in my programming, and going uphill , on the flat its got no probs taking off . I think i missed your point. I can alter the throttle map but makes is unfriendly in traffic. If I park with foot on brake and apply throttle the torque actually overcomes clutch and motor will spin at 20 rpm but it senses its not going anywhere so wont allow more power to feed in and will enter cutback & stall. Makes it hard to do a burnout but not impossible and can be altered with oem programmer.


A local bloke is building a Prado with twin motors, each motor has a 2.6:1 planetary reduction gearset in from a hilux transferase in a DIY housing bolted to the back of them. then direct into diff , one for front . one for rear . 2.5:1 is about right . I still prefer dual range , like a Bollinger will have.