What happened to your D3/D4 today?

[John_D4]

There’s a similar thread in the D2 section which is a great read, so as a new D4 convert from the D2 land I thought its time we have a similar thread.

So...just take a pic of something either interesting, boring, or frustrating that involved your mostly trusty beast and post it here. No pic? That’s fine tell us about it.

[John_D4]

I installed my new Redarc Brake Controller using the instructions outlined in this thread

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/132802d1511931384-redarc-tow-pro-install-d4-electric-brake-controller.pdf

All was going well. I got nervous about cutting the brown wire as I was using a Redarc encapsulated diode (not listed in these instructions). So before finishing I jammed some wood on the brake pedal so I could see if I was connecting the correct wire (brake lights).

Unfortunately, after finishing up and now running late for school pick up, I jumped in and the car wouldn’t start! Seems with jamming the brake pedal repeatedly the pedal stiffened up and needed a firmer press to start the car.

Phew...I thought I’d really broken something! Damn electronics scared the crap out of me.

[Shropshire]

My wife's puppy Labrador wee’d on the rubber boot liner and some of it made it down to the carpet under the third row of seats. So a hour of messing around and some swearing at the dog later. I have removed the 3rd row of seats and lifter the carpet for a deep clean and a good airing session. New rule is that the dog is in crate for any trips in the car from now on, or i will have the disco and she can slum it in my ranger. Hope you all have a good weekend. Cheers.

[John_D4]

My wife's puppy Labrador wee’d on the rubber boot liner and some of it made it down to the carpet under the third row of seats. So a hour of messing around and some swearing at the dog later. I have removed the 3rd row of seats and lifter the carpet for a deep clean and a good airing session. New rule is that the dog is in crate for any trips in the car from now on, or i will have the disco and she can slum it in my ranger. Hope you all have a good weekend. Cheers.

Ewww. My rule to my kids is ‘you mess the d4 you die’. I still have 2 kids

[harryharrison]

It failed its pink slip check :(

Excessive play in the steering, needs new tie rod ends.

[Disco-tastic]

The alternator started whining so i ordered a new one. $620 for a Denso from the UK and i still may be up for GST when it lands.

Over here Densos are $1000+ !!!

Hopefully thats the last of for a while. Ive spent $3k fixing stuff in the last 6 week's :(

[l00kin4]

I've had a small slow leak in my air compressor setup (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup-7.html#post2792240)
for a while so finally spent the time to find it and fix it. Had to drop out the tank (I've installed an OEM tank under the driver's side) and just refit an elbow with a bit more thread sealant. I think it had come loose slightly during installation. Not easy but much easier than I thought it might have been....

https://live.staticflickr.com/819/41195739301_485c844025_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25LjW4g)IMG_1582 (https://flic.kr/p/25LjW4g)

No new pics unfortunately but very happy to have fixed it after leaving it for quite a while.

David

[John_D4]

I've had a small slow leak in my air compressor setup (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup-7.html#post2792240)
for a while so finally spent the time to find it and fix it. Had to drop out the tank (I've installed an OEM tank under the driver's side) and just refit an elbow with a bit more thread sealant. I think it had come loose slightly during installation. Not easy but much easier than I thought it might have been....

https://live.staticflickr.com/819/41195739301_485c844025_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25LjW4g)IMG_1582 (https://flic.kr/p/25LjW4g)

No new pics unfortunately but very happy to have fixed it after leaving it for quite a while.

David

I’ve read through the linked threads - great ideas as I’m trying to decide between an under bonnet air compressor or an under seat compressor.

From what I understand, a standard passenger side air tank will fit on the drivers side if I modify the mounting brackets on the tank? Is that correct? If so that’s great, I’d just need to pickup a 2nd hand tank

[scarry]

Finished packing for another camping trip.Leaving sparrow tomorrow.

Taking the grandson,for the first time,he is 5yrs old now and so excited its ridiculous.

And the dog,oh and SWMBO.[biggrin]

Hopefully we have a great time which we will.

[l00kin4]

Hi, yes, that's right - tank fits very nicely in the 'mirror' position on the driver's side with modification of the brackets. Of course you also need to consider the plumbing - I had extra bungs welded in too... If you want any more info or photos let me know (maybe in the original thread...) David


I’ve read through the linked threads - great ideas as I’m trying to decide between an under bonnet air compressor or an under seat compressor.

From what I understand, a standard passenger side air tank will fit on the drivers side if I modify the mounting brackets on the tank? Is that correct? If so that’s great, I’d just need to pickup a 2nd hand tank

[John_D4]

Hi, yes, that's right - tank fits very nicely in the 'mirror' position on the driver's side with modification of the brackets. Of course you also need to consider the plumbing - I had extra bungs welded in too... If you want any more info or photos let me know (maybe in the original thread...) David

My D4 has all the skid plates in place underneath, obviously it’ll still fit?

[l00kin4]

My D4 has all the skid plates in place underneath, obviously it’ll still fit?

Not sure of your plates but if they're like mine, should be fine. Tank sits outside chassis rail tucked up nicely:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48762661913_6315fd9299_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hhZowe)

David

[Tombie]

Had the D4 for 8 years next month, wow has that gone quick!

For a guy off-roading a lot you’d think it would be fully decked out already [emoji41]

Anyway, bring it was leased I never really bothered as it did everything almost out of the box for 5 years, then a redundancy slowed progress whilst I considered it’s future. Well it’s future is as a keeper; so onto the build.

Today was a “point of no return” type of project.

Drilled out the upper holes for the Prospeed Light bar
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/178f08d42b1f1da7cad9433bf82e1b0f.jpg

Then 5 of the toughest holes to drill out there! Snorkel bracket.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/0bcd171c2d273d5b9fafa61778d5be0e.jpg

Cut the trim panels to accomodate the bracket and the roof bar
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/465201f631b69f1288bb0b548668052e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/474a24c353d8684b1f86842f0341fdae.jpg

Then fitted that all back on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/768f690597b910fe95632fbead39fbe6.jpg

Now it’s panel holes and cuts
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/5a6af9bc8c09855749150da1a9b449c4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/22fc0cfe327843b3f14f636d999dc095.jpg

It’s now started raining so will take a break.

[l00kin4]

Tombie, did you use Cobalt bits for those A-pillar holes? How many ? Any advice ?

I have a snorkel fitment in my plans so you've prompted me to pull my finger out.. First though I'm going to modify an LR RAI so that I have the snout to fit the hose to the airbox - a bit of polyethylene welding which is going to test me! It will be a hybrid of the two.

David


Had the D4 for 8 years next month, wow has that gone quick!

Drilled out the upper holes for the Prospeed Light bar

Then 5 of the toughest holes to drill out there! Snorkel bracket.

[Tombie]

Tombie, did you use Cobalt bits for those A-pillar holes? How many ? Any advice ?

I have a snorkel fitment in my plans so you've prompted me to pull my finger out.. First though I'm going to modify an LR RAI so that I have the snout to fit the hose to the airbox - a bit of polyethylene welding which is going to test me! It will be a hybrid of the two.

David



Hi David

Destroyed 3 Cobalt bits.... in the end it was doing my head in so went with Impact Bits in an impact driver - destroyed 2 in short order but did the holes quicker.

Use imperial 3/16” impact bits to punch the holes and tidy with the 5mm Cobalts.

Just allow 5 impact bits!

[John_D4]

Hi David

Destroyed 3 Cobalt bits.... in the end it was doing my head in so went with Impact Bits in an impact driver - destroyed 2 in short order but did the holes quicker.

Use imperial 3/16” impact bits to punch the holes and tidy with the 5mm Cobalts.

Just allow 5 impact bits!

Why cobalt and not a standard drillbit?

[Tombie]

Why cobalt and not a standard drillbit?

Won’t even remotely stand a chance of drilling that metal.

[loanrangie]

Won’t even remotely stand a chance of drilling that metal.

Those A-pillar's are tough, only got 1 hole drilled when i did my snorkel so must get around to doing the other one.
Its quite sturdy as is though.

[gavinwibrow]

The alternator started whining so i ordered a new one. $620 for a Denso from the UK and i still may be up for GST when it lands.

Over here Densos are $1000+ !!!

Hopefully thats the last of for a while. Ive spent $3k fixing stuff in the last 6 week's :(



Mine recently cost $660 locally, OEM complete with pulley, so for once I suspect you haven't saved anything via an overseas purchase.

[Disco-tastic]

Mine recently cost $660 locally, OEM complete with pulley, so for once I suspect you haven't saved anything via an overseas purchase.Where from?

Does it have Denso stamped on in? In looking for other parts i have seen a few aftermarket parts under the "LR" and "OEM" brands (though no alternators).

[gavinwibrow]

Where from?

Does it have Denso stamped on in? In looking for other parts i have seen a few aftermarket parts under the "LR" and "OEM" brands (though no alternators).

We are travelling this fair land and our local Perth Indie (DazzaTD5 on here) sourced it from the local LR Parts people, and had it sent up to us in the bush to be fitted. Will have to check the box to confirm its origin, but he doen't allow improper parts.

[Eric SDV6SE]

The alternator started whining so i ordered a new one. $620 for a Denso from the UK and i still may be up for GST when it lands.

Over here Densos are $1000+ !!!

Hopefully thats the last of for a while. Ive spent $3k fixing stuff in the last 6 week's :(

Rovacraft WA sells genuine Denso units for 650 ish including GST. I know cause i bought one last December. If thr uk value is less than 1000bucks, they should have added 10% gst already and removed the 15% VAT

[cjc_td5]

Hi Tombie.
I'll be interested to see if a light bar in that position is noisy? I've found anything in front of the step in the roof to howl and buffet badly.

I had s 40" light bar that fitted perfectly between the factory long rails in front of the step. I had to take it off though as it howled above 80km/h.
Cheers, Chris.
Had the D4 for 8 years next month, wow has that gone quick!

For a guy off-roading a lot you’d think it would be fully decked out already [emoji41]

Anyway, bring it was leased I never really bothered as it did everything almost out of the box for 5 years, then a redundancy slowed progress whilst I considered it’s future. Well it’s future is as a keeper; so onto the build.

Today was a “point of no return” type of project.

Drilled out the upper holes for the Prospeed Light bar
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/178f08d42b1f1da7cad9433bf82e1b0f.jpg

Then 5 of the toughest holes to drill out there! Snorkel bracket.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/0bcd171c2d273d5b9fafa61778d5be0e.jpg

Cut the trim panels to accomodate the bracket and the roof bar
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/465201f631b69f1288bb0b548668052e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/474a24c353d8684b1f86842f0341fdae.jpg

Then fitted that all back on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/768f690597b910fe95632fbead39fbe6.jpg

Now it’s panel holes and cuts
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/5a6af9bc8c09855749150da1a9b449c4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190920/22fc0cfe327843b3f14f636d999dc095.jpg

It’s now started raining so will take a break.

[Tombie]

Hi Tombie.
I'll be interested to see if a light bar in that position is noisy? I've found anything in front of the step in the roof to howl and buffet badly.

I had s 40" light bar that fitted perfectly between the factory long rails in front of the step. I had to take it off though as it howled above 80km/h.
Cheers, Chris.

I shall let you know [emoji6]

[gofish]

Got my D4 serviced today (130 K's) & got the MAP sensor cleaned out....totally gunked up [bighmmm] Hoping all should be good now after a little EGR work was performed......& a little remap of course [thumbsupbig] . Next on the to-do list is (LONG OVERDUE) tyres. Am currently contemplating Falken Wildpeak AT3's. Has anyone used these & how do they rate them ? I am thinking 265/60 18 seems to be the size most recommend. If anyone has any other tyre suggestions I am all ears. I like the BFG's but find there pricing a little steep. Thanks.

[Tombie]

Running them myself. Can’t rate them highly enough.
Quiet, responsive and grip well in all conditions.
In the mud they are an AT but that excellent side biter gets the job done.

[John_D4]

I had falkens on my D2. I can’t say enough good things about them

[cripesamighty]

I am running the Wildpeaks as well. Have the same experience as Tombie. They are great tyres for the price.

[Narangga]

Running them myself. Can’t rate them highly enough.
Quiet, responsive and grip well in all conditions.
In the mud they are an AT but that excellent side biter gets the job done.

What size are you running?

[Parso]

Got my D4 serviced today (130 K's) & got the MAP sensor cleaned out....totally gunked up [bighmmm] Hoping all should be good now after a little EGR work was performed......& a little remap of course [thumbsupbig] . Next on the to-do list is (LONG OVERDUE) tyres. Am currently contemplating Falken Wildpeak AT3's. Has anyone used these & how do they rate them ? I am thinking 265/60 18 seems to be the size most recommend. If anyone has any other tyre suggestions I am all ears. I like the BFG's but find there pricing a little steep. Thanks.

Was contemplating the Falkens but I acted too slow and the buy 3 get one free deal ended for the month so I ended up with Nitto Terra Wranglers 265/60/r18. Very happy.
From research it was between Falkens, Nitto and Toyos with Falkens best value for money.

[Tombie]

What size are you running?

265/60/18. Paid $215 each F&B

[rick130]

Another recommendation for the Wildpeaks in 265/60-18, albeit on a D2.

I generally hate new tyres, too much block squirm and general vagueness for this little black duck, but these things have impressed.
Only about 3,000km atm but steer precisely on the black top, no tramlining, (much better than the Pirelli Verde's they replaced) thegrip under braking and accelerating is excellent, not too harsh a ride in XL construction and are great in dirt and gravel so far.
I think I paid around $230 f&b.
I live in one of the wettest parts of the country but no rain to speak of since they've been fitted.
I've scored my first puncture in a few years but a tek screw will go through anything.
I need to drop the tyre off for a patch through the week.

[Parso]

Rejoicing over some rain on my disco today here in Tamworth. Hasn't gotten clean since taking it out in the snow up in Nundle a month or so back!

[Narangga]

265/60/18. Paid $215 each F&B


Another recommendation for the Wildpeaks in 265/60-18, albeit on a D2.

I generally hate new tyres, too much block squirm and general vagueness for this little black duck, but these things have impressed.
Only about 3,000km atm but steer precisely on the black top, no tramlining, (much better than the Pirelli Verde's they replaced) thegrip under braking and accelerating is excellent, not too harsh a ride in XL construction and are great in dirt and gravel so far.
I think I paid around $230 f&b.
I live in one of the wettest parts of the country but no rain to speak of since they've been fitted.
I've scored my first puncture in a few years but a tek screw will go through anything.
I need to drop the tyre off for a patch through the week.

Thanks guys. I have been running D697' for the last 4 years/50,000 km. I went to them as they are an LT and although we don't do a lot of non-black top, when we do it is usually rough rocky country. They have performed faultlessly in all circumstances so far. While they have come down in price from $398 to $348 (Darwin price) over the past couple of years (KO2 still $469) I am considering less expensive but reliable options.

Have either of you (or anyone else) had experience in rough country with the Wildpeak 265/60-18's as in that size they don't appear to be an LT with the added sidewall strength?

[Tombie]

I play in the Flinders Ranges and on Gibber quite often. No I’ll effects so far!

I was also a D697 user (2 sets) and very happy with them - still a great tyre.

I went with the AT3W to see how they go after glowing reports. Doubt I’ll switch back.

The XL rated AT3W is incredibly solid construction.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Nothing

I took it for a drive, got where i was going, did what i needed to do and drove home again.

Should i be worried?

😜

[Tombie]

Nothing

I took it for a drive, got where i was going, did what i needed to do and drove home again.

Should i be worried?

[emoji12]

Not at all. That’s the pleasure of being a D4 owner..

[Geedublya]

Running Falken ATW3 275 55 20 on my RRS. Grip wet and dry is very impressive so much better than any other AT tyre I've tried previously. Fuel consumption has moved hgher by 1-1.5l/100 from the 255 55 20 Pirelli Scorpion Verdes though, I've also added a platform so it could be a combination of factors.

[John_D4]

I picked up 5 x 2nd hand Maxxis 980’s (255 55 19lt) from a forumite. I found out that with the seat down you can fit 3 tyres from drivers seat to tailgate. Very impressive amount of storage.

[Tombie]

Running Falken ATW3 275 55 20 on my RRS. Grip wet and dry is very impressive so much better than any other AT tyre I've tried previously. Fuel consumption has moved hgher by 1-1.5l/100 from the 255 55 20 Pirelli Scorpion Verdes though, I've also added a platform so it could be a combination of factors.

I’d expect that being a more open pattern and a heavier carcass.

[Narangga]

I play in the Flinders Ranges and on Gibber quite often. No I’ll effects so far!

I was also a D697 user (2 sets) and very happy with them - still a great tyre.

I went with the AT3W to see how they go after glowing reports. Doubt I’ll switch back.

The XL rated AT3W is incredibly solid construction.

Thanks - a report either good or bad on that sort of use was what I was after. I doubt I'll get them under $275 here in Darwin but I'll find out tomorrow...

[matti4556]

I gave the old girl an oil change service last weekend and tub this afternoon as tomorrow she's of to the hospital for a week. She's done nearly 200K on the tranny she was born with and is starting to slip and whinge a bit when towing the tin tent. So, being that she's such a trusty girl, and not so shabby around the edges and under the skirt, and I would find it hard to trade-in such a trusty friend, I'm going to get her box rebuilt.[smilebigeye]
I will let you know how she goes when I get her back. - Matti

[CanadianRyan]

154422154423154424154425154428

[gavinwibrow]

154422154423154424154425154426154428

All that trouble, and left 1 pic with numberplate showing

[CanadianRyan]

All that trouble, and left 1 pic with numberplate showing
Whoops!

[Tombie]

Ah yes. Wouldn’t want the thousands of daily motorists seeing your number plate [emoji41]

[Dagilmo]

Ah yes. Wouldn’t want the thousands of daily motorists seeing your number plate [emoji41]

Yes, I've often wonder why the need to cover up on the posted photos when its visible all day every day on the road? It's genuine question in case I've missed something.

[discorevy]

makes it a little bit harder for the authorities to track you down when loaded to the gunnels with contraband[tonguewink]

[shanegtr]

This was yesterdays effort - radiator replaced in my D3. There was a bit of dry grass and dirt built up between the A/C condenser and rad - but that's to be excpected
154485154486

[Dagilmo]

This was yesterdays effort - radiator replaced in my D3. There was a bit of dry grass and dirt built up between the A/C condenser and rad - but that's to be excpected


Great job. How long and how hard?

[PeterJ]

Well, for quite awhile I have done without AM/FM radio, it simply would not select from the soft button on the screen or by the mode selector. Consensus seemed to think it was the IAM unit, the bit the CD's go into, so I got another unit and this morning pulled the interior apart. Hate doing it because I always seem to loose clips into the abyss and am undoubtedly rewarded with a new rattle at some point in the future. Sadly, after changing the IAM unit, no change, so now not so sure where to go, perhaps I can (or will have to) live without it.

154490

So, today some interior trauma. [bigsad]

Peter

[shanegtr]

Great job. How long and how hard?
Probably around 8hrs all up. Its not all that hard, intercooler comes out with it so theres no shortage of hoses to remove. The retaining bolt on the passenger side chassis is a bastard to get access to and it takes some wiggling to get the unit out - bit more effort putting it in due to the effort of trying not to damage the new cooler

[Narangga]

265/60/18. Paid $215 each F&B


Another recommendation for the Wildpeaks in 265/60-18, albeit on a D2.

I think I paid around $230 f&b.


Thanks - a report either good or bad on that sort of use was what I was after. I doubt I'll get them under $275 here in Darwin but I'll find out tomorrow...

Oh silly silly me,
How stupid I could be.
Because I live in the Territory
The first number has to be a three...

Two outlets in Darwin. The first - 'We have to get them up from down south' - $350 ea F&B.
The second $325
[bigsad]

At $348 I'll stick with the D697's as that supplier is the go to for a wheel alignment anyway.

[PeterJ]

Well, for quite awhile I have done without AM/FM radio, it simply would not select from the soft button on the screen or by the mode selector. Consensus seemed to think it was the IAM unit, the bit the CD's go into, so I got another unit and this morning pulled the interior apart. Hate doing it because I always seem to loose clips into the abyss and am undoubtedly rewarded with a new rattle at some point in the future. Sadly, after changing the IAM unit, no change, so now not so sure where to go, perhaps I can (or will have to) live without it.

154490

So, today some interior trauma. [bigsad]

Peter

So, after some excellent help from our mates at Disco3 in the UK and a post about a similar problem from Famousfive about the CCF changes I looked back at my notes when I did the DAB install and Logic 7 upgrade and found 5 CCF edits to enable the new hardware. 2 related to DAB install and 3 for the audio upgrade. Initially I set about reversing the CCF changes one at a time and checking to see if AM/FM was re-enabled but no success by the completion of the removal of all the changes. So, I did the IIDtool CCF initial file upload as was suggested and success. I now had AM/FM radio, no Logic 7 and no DAB, that is to say, as per original vehicle configuration. I was very happy with this as it proved that there was no hardware issue.

Next step was to reconfigure the system so first CCF change was change back to Premium Audio System, AM/FM was still there after the change. Second step change Audio Amplifier back to previous and enable small centre speaker, again, AM/FM remained but still no DAB.

This was the step I thought would cause the trouble, enabled the DAB fields in the CCF and everything works perfectly.


Having had time to reflect, I do recall checking all of the audio system functions post the initial install and CCF changes. What I remembered later was that I took the vehicle down to an indie workshop and asked them to run a Logic 7 calibration routine that was available on their diagnostic tool, but not available on GAP. I do not recall ever checking AM/FM after that procedure until I found it not working at some point in time after that. That's not to say that that was the cause of the problem, it's just my recollection of the sequence of events of the changes I made to the car.

Hopefully this will also prove useful to other forum members and certainly an interesting insight into the critical nature of CCF changes with these vehicles.

regards

Peter

[LRD414]

Hopefully this will also prove useful to other forum members and certainly an interesting insight into the critical nature of CCF changes with these vehicles.
I'm sure it would be helpful to others because it's detailed and easy to follow for people in a similar situation.
And that's what I don't like about this thread, who's ever going to find this detail in the future?

If this thread ends up a catch-all for a lot of good information that would otherwise have been in more logical threads it will be to the detriment of this D3/D4 section as a resource.

I hope people consider that side of it when posting.

Regards,
Scott

PS .... sorry for singling you out Peter and I'm not having a go at you personally.

[gavinwibrow]

I'm sure it would be helpful to others because it's detailed and easy to follow for people in a similar situation.
And that's what I don't like about this thread, who's ever going to find this detail in the future?

If this thread ends up a catch-all for a lot of good information that would otherwise have been in more logical threads it will be to the detriment of this D3/D4 section as a resource.

I hope people consider that side of it when posting.

Regards,
Scott

PS .... sorry for singling you out Peter and I'm not having a go at you personally.



Excellent Point - needs to be easily found in the future - and if I recall we have a specific area for such gems?

[John_D4]

An auto transmission service today. Damn site more expensive than when I last did the TD5! Still the D4 is chalk and cheese to the D2. I’m really liking it. I do miss the D2 tho.

[PeterJ]

All good gentlemen, I agree with you, perhaps I can ask the mod to copy the post(s) into the Communications, Car Audio and Electronics section, or even just move it. I guess it was just a followup from my original post of what I was frustrating myself with in the shed that day.[biggrin]

[loanrangie]

Drove to work, fanged it thru some traffic now about do it in reverse [thumbsupbig].

[discorevy]

Drove to work, fanged it thru some traffic now about do it in reverse [thumbsupbig].


that could be dangerous..... might have to watch the news tonight[bigsmile]

[scarry]

Finished packing for another camping trip.Leaving sparrow tomorrow.

Taking the grandson,for the first time,he is 5yrs old now and so excited its ridiculous.

And the dog,oh and SWMBO.[biggrin]

Hopefully we have a great time which we will.

Unloaded the D4 today,even got the RTT off by myself,onto a rail set up above the car,which i have recently made.

Had a cracker of a time,SWMBO slept in the RTT,the two of us and the dog slept in the open under the awning[biggrin]

All i am going to hear from the grandson for the next few months will be 'when are we going again'

The highlight was seeing a 2M Eastern Brown slowly make its way through the campsite as if it owned it!

[INter674]

Mmm...wife bullied me into buying a 2014 D4 SC...quite rare I understand. Hopefully it will be a good buy if not I'll blame her☺

Should speed up towing the float compared to the D2 which will now be sold. I'll miss the D2 very much. I've gotten to know it very well...each nut and bolt in fact. The D2 also got me many tools including a hoist..tool cabinet..jacks...parts washer. And so on.

Hopefully all this gear will now not be needed with the D4. I'm also over diesels...hence the V6 SC choice😎

Lovely car to drive and coincidently on test it thrashed a new black rangie off the lights...twice😃. Look out ricer racers there's a new racer delivery van on the block! Only joking.

First thing is to get the ZF auto flushed as a precaution even tho it has not towed. Lots of work already done inc the troublesum jag water pump replaced, new rotors, new tyres, new battery etc. Sad that the owner has lost over 30k in 2.6 years of ownership. .but it had to go he said and there's lots of D4s to choose from out there atm.

More reports to come and I'll be checking out the D4/3 forum now for fantastic helpfull info..just like the D2 forum is😉

[BradC]

Broke a toe on my left foot on Friday and wife decided I had to drive the D3, so I had to learn the feel of the synchros for clutchless changes. Still had to use the clutch to get it rolling in 1st, but kinda got the hang of it now.

Did it a few times in the D1 over the years when the stupid plastic thingo holding the release bearing gave out, but haven't needed to do it much in the last 20 years. Now I think about it, when I did it in the D1 I put it in first and then started the car. Wonder if the D3 will do that?

Hasn't broken down in 5 months now, so I'm starting to look at it with slightly less disgust.

[John_D4]

Drove to work, fanged it thru some traffic now about do it in reverse [thumbsupbig].

Ur driving to work in reverse?

[loanrangie]

Ur driving to work in reverse?Don't be silly, going home in reverse :)

[Parso]

Fitted a one size fits none roof basket and awning to my Disco for $300. Hopefully goes well for the long weekend. Not sure about 3m awning but should be easy enough to resell.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190927/cfd3c277bd5ce1c5e1d1ab2c488e9670.jpg

[goofyr]

Drove up the coast to Port Macquarie. Fully loaded with 6 inside.

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/ed930bb5fa1ba553cc0dcd4b6fb60588.jpg

[Tombie]

Continued the long overdue upgrades and mods.

Pulled the dash cam rear cable through the tailgate,
fitted LEDs in the tailgate for work lighting,
Hard wired dash cam instead of using accessory socket
Hard wired TPMS unit
Fitted awning and mounts to Prospeed rack
Fitted Tred mounts to Prospeed
Fitted the Prospeed top lightbar mount
Replaced Fyrlyt lenses with new Borosilicate versions

[John_D4]

fitted LEDs in the tailgate for work lighting,

Replaced Fyrlyt lenses with new Borosilicate versions

What do you mean by the 2nd one Tombie? Do you have a pic of the 1st?

[Disco-tastic]

Replaced the alternator. The whine at idle is gone! C1A13-64 error code is still there though. Anyone know how to remove the compressor exhaust?

[Tombie]

What do you mean by the 2nd one Tombie? Do you have a pic of the 1st?

There is a thread on here from LRD414 who did the install of LEDs, I had the parts but never got to it (done now).

The second one - Fyrlyt has upgraded to Borosilicate Glass lenses which solves some issues they had early on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/1c783c3d7f53aebb65cf4ec94eb03ff4.jpg

[letherm]

I've had Fyrlyts on my D4 for 5.5 years and the lenses had become discoloured. Rang Paul at Fyrlyt in S.A. and he told me about the new lenses and sent me a replacement set at a very good price. Excellent customer service. It was one of the reasons I bought these lights. All the parts can be individually replaced.

Martin

[W&KO]

I've had Fyrlyts on my D4 for 5.5 years and the lenses had become discoloured. Rang Paul at Fyrlyt in S.A. and he told me about the new lenses and sent me a replacement set at a very good price. Excellent customer service. It was one of the reasons I bought these lights. All the parts can be individually replaced.

Martin

I run three sets, two at work and one on the bench at home.

Was supplied the new lenses at no cost, which given a premium product should be the case.

The originals
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/d2abdefff53885605ac3672edf0d001d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/3244f85f6697eb93ae3e3e495eee8647.jpg

The replacements
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/4468cc7c221eba346c7c52895259bec4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/ee288acc16bc2bf666b1e4cdaf37a3b2.jpg

[RANDLOVER]

I admired my window glass handiwork today, as yesterday when I rinsed the dust off from this weekend's dirt road trip, I decided to be very careful and not use the hose on the windows except the tailgate of course. Normally I'm left with watermarks but, none today.

[Eric SDV6SE]

154659
154660
154661

Went for a drive, did what i had to do and drove home.
Gave the transfer case a bit of a workout, played with traction control settings and generally had fun.

[DieselLSE]

Good to see a D4 in its natural habitat.

[RANDLOVER]

The EAS is not just great off road, as yesterday evening on my way home I stopped behing a hatchback, that had the once fashionable tail lights which have the lenses separated into all the components, I think this makes them more focused/brighter. Unfortunately the indicator was shining directly into my eyes at a very long traffic light, so I crept up as near as I dared (my D3 doesn't have the front camera/park sensors) to block it out, but a semi-circle of light was still blinking in my vision, so I raised the suspension which blocked it out totally!

[John_D4]

The EAS is not just great off road, as yesterday evening on my way home I stopped behing a hatchback, that had the once fashionable tail lights which have the lenses separated into all the components, I think this makes them more focused/brighter. Unfortunately the indicator was shining directly into my eyes at a very long traffic light, so I crept up as near as I dared (my D3 doesn't have the front camera/park sensors) to block it out, but a semi-circle of light was still blinking in my vision, so I raised the suspension which blocked it out totally!

lol great solution!

[gotaflat]

well - been a long road for the big girl.
154689

despite hitting a roo last week - its still good [bighmmm] well - until the service. Little external damage - knocked a fog light surround out - 2 park sensors and one front camera.. all good - plug that back in ... but nope - behind the front plastic bar - shelf/etc etc all cracked up, and according to rover-tech ,,,how the airbags didn't go off is a surprise... [thumbsupbig]

basically - the big girl needs to go but cant part with it - so now trying to convince XXX insurance to replace the plastic bumper but a new factory protection bar (which just happens to be for sale in WA right now),,,,, chances?

anyway 300,000kms [happycry]

(PS - gearbox going I can feel it!) [bawl]

[Blackrex]

Mine decided to lock my wife out of the vehicle yesterday when the tailgate release solenoid failed and put the locking system into error. My local LR Mechanic has three D4's booked in in the next week for exactly the same issue. :wallbash:

[DieselLSE]

basically - the big girl needs to go but cant part with it - so now trying to convince XXX insurance to replace the plastic bumper but a new factory protection bar (which just happens to be for sale in WA right now),,,,, chances?


I have a protection bar and bumper and other front bits (including the fog lghts) that I removed to fit the bull bar. Happy to give them to you, but they're in Melbourne.

[SaltyNalty]

Today I fitted the Travall rear barrier and the Ezi-awn K9 Ladder to get to the Rhino Rack.

Cheers,

Saltyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/c57ce9eab45941e27ecf70de4998ded7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/2e7819496903731d38082442c15ccbb2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/f8a94f480270711e91976e4170e3bc14.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/22769633c1f3714cc5d3bb4fb9d47c40.jpg

[John_D4]

one front camera.. all good - plug that back in ... but nope ]
Do they have front cameras?

[John_D4]

Today I fitted the Travall rear barrier and the Ezi-awn K9 Ladder to get to the Rhino Rack.

Cheers,

Saltyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/c57ce9eab45941e27ecf70de4998ded7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/2e7819496903731d38082442c15ccbb2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/f8a94f480270711e91976e4170e3bc14.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/22769633c1f3714cc5d3bb4fb9d47c40.jpg

What do u think of the ladder? Solid enough? I was happy with the D2 rear ladder it haven’t seen any D4’s with ladders in person to judge.

[SaltyNalty]

What do u think of the ladder? Solid enough? I was happy with the D2 rear ladder it haven’t seen any D4’s with ladders in person to judge.

It's very solid considering it couldn't weigh more than 1kg. I'm 110kg and it supports me no worries.

Cheers,

Salty

[gavinwibrow]

What do u think of the ladder? Solid enough? I was happy with the D2 rear ladder it haven’t seen any D4’s with ladders in person to judge.


I concur - but a bit of a step up(and more so down) from the rear bumper if you don't have the spare wheel there

[Tombie]

That’s why I went with the Prospeed ladder.

Extra foot rung.

In my case the tyre is sitting there, doesn’t take long to open that and start climbing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/5af537954e63df883ec4c2bb0af77890.jpg

[Tombie]

Fitted a gear carrier / tyre cover (I also have a bag that hangs off the back of it).

This allows for 5 gear bags to be mounted to carry whatever I wish.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/1d8a6ffd3ea732e7a21d4f7b2b75ddba.jpg

I don’t have a pic of the bags fitted so here’s one from the website.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/24c6c5b5ff725574f1cf797986b30e87.jpg

[John_D4]

Fitted a gear carrier / tyre cover (I also have a bag that hangs off the back of it).

This allows for 5 gear bags to be mounted to carry whatever I wish.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/1d8a6ffd3ea732e7a21d4f7b2b75ddba.jpg

I don’t have a pic of the bags fitted so here’s one from the website.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/24c6c5b5ff725574f1cf797986b30e87.jpg

Cool rims

[Tombie]

Cool rims

Thanks - had wanted Simmons since my first street car but never got a set. Oh well, 30 years on!

[DiscoClax]

Hey Tombie. What can you tell us about your spare wheel? Looks like maybe a Simmons FR-C? Size, offset and do you think they would they clear the 4-pot Brembos? Cheers.

[Tombie]

Hey Tombie. What can you tell us about your spare wheel? Looks like maybe a Simmons FR-C? Size, offset and do you think they would they clear the 4-pot Brembos? Cheers.

They are 18x8.5 +42 offset. Not sure they would clear Brembos although I’m confident they will clear the 3.0l brakes - I’m hoping to try them on Basil135s 3.0 D4 soon.

In some states they aren’t legal but ok in SA.

[DiscoClax]

They are 18x8.5 +42 offset. Not sure they would clear Brembos although I’m confident they will clear the 3.0l brakes - I’m hoping to try them on Basil135s 3.0 D4 soon.

In some states they aren’t legal but ok in SA.

Thanks Tombie. Should be OK in Vic also on an MC. If you try them on a 3.0 could you maybe take a couple of measurements from disc face to the back of the spokes and also radially to the rim? I think the disc rotor is the same ~360mm (?) So could guesstimate from there.... maybe. There has to be other, decent quality options in 18" out there.

In the meantime I may get my Compo spare digitally scanned and create a profile from that as a known go-gauge. Hmmmm. Might get the front brakes scanned in place , too and create a swept clearance profile. You've got me thinking now.... Mate of mine has the gear.

Would you mind sharing the approx cost for a set of those?

[LRD414]

..... There has to be other, decent quality options in 18" out there.
I hear there are getting pretty close.

TuffAnt [emoji1037]🇺[emoji1215]🇧[emoji1099] on Instagram: “Just going to leave this here.…” (https://www.instagram.com/p/Bymhv3_HngK/?igshid=mps25bfgohbq)

TuffAnt... | Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/2001593936766455/posts/2343063575952821/)

Cheers,
Scott

[rick130]

Fitted a gear carrier / tyre cover (I also have a bag that hangs off the back of it).

This allows for 5 gear bags to be mounted to carry whatever I wish.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/1d8a6ffd3ea732e7a21d4f7b2b75ddba.jpg

I don’t have a pic of the bags fitted so here’s one from the website.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/24c6c5b5ff725574f1cf797986b30e87.jpgI like that. [emoji4]

[DiscoClax]

I hear there are getting pretty close.

TuffAnt [emoji1037]🇺[emoji1215]🇧[emoji1099] on Instagram: “Just going to leave this here.…” (https://www.instagram.com/p/Bymhv3_HngK/?igshid=mps25bfgohbq)

TuffAnt... | Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/2001593936766455/posts/2343063575952821/)

Cheers,
Scott

I haven't seen it heard anything new since this popped up several months ago. I pinged them back then but no response. No details either. Will they clear the Brembos (their steels don't)? Will they take standard center caps and nuts? How will they be priced? Etc. They are an absolute dead ringer for another aftermarket wheel so I suspect there is some "reprofiling" happening of that existing wheel for suitability on our challenging platforms... Pure conjecture on my part, of course.

I just can't consider the Moabs due to their lower grade manufacturing yet Compo-level pricing. And no-one has confirmed they'll clear the Brembos. Hopefully TuffAnt will do a truly credible alternative that is priced appropriately. Cast alloy wheels are ridiculously cheap to make if you can get some volume. They should be cheaper than the steels.

[Dagilmo]

Fitted a gear carrier / tyre cover (I also have a bag that hangs off the back of it).

This allows for 5 gear bags to be mounted to carry whatever I wish.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/1d8a6ffd3ea732e7a21d4f7b2b75ddba.jpg

I don’t have a pic of the bags fitted so here’s one from the website.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191005/24c6c5b5ff725574f1cf797986b30e87.jpg


The rear wheel cover looks like a good thing. The rim/s look great. I got some second hand compomotives, but wishing now I hadn't if these are an option!!

[loanrangie]

Got away camping for a few days at Rubicon Victoria.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/c65a8961f5f8061cf077913ac60589cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/db4c5d78662b9c9878f962815484f4cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/551266120f779c536f29d9958cec445a.jpg

[gofish]

Hi Tombie. Love the wheels you have there. Noticed the Falkens they are shod with. Have ordered a set to go on tomorrow in 265 60 18's. The tyre guy said they are very popular at the moment with a lot of sales. Looking forward to trying them out.

[Parso]

Got away to Knorrit Flat for a chance to try out the new roof rack and awning. Had a pretty good time hitting up the Kombi Festival at Old Bar reminiscing about a time before I sold my Beetle for the Disco.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/ccccb3411359ee18e3f27d587b2bb20b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/f7fdbbed0c0a2b98390db5b0dfdd4069.jpg

[shanegtr]

Im a couple of days late, but on Sunday I flushed the power steering fluid in my D3

[gofish]

Had a new set of Falkens fitted today (265 60 18). Although the spare did fit underneath, I didn't realise the tow hitch had to be removed to fit it...just. It was amusing watching the tyre guy trying to unlock it. In the end I had to do it. So far (early days) I'm happy with them. Just a little noisier, although I'd expect that being an AT.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Got away to Knorrit Flat for a chance to try out the new roof rack and awning. Had a pretty good time hitting up the Kombi Festival at Old Bar reminiscing about a time before I sold my Beetle for the Disco.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/ccccb3411359ee18e3f27d587b2bb20b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/f7fdbbed0c0a2b98390db5b0dfdd4069.jpg

Thats cool, i use the rear recovery hitch for the exact same thing...

[scarry]

Thats cool, i use the rear recovery hitch for the exact same thing...

We often sleep under the awning,and tie the dog up putting a long lead through one of the wheel spokes.

Its surprising once tied up they just settle down,curl up,shut up, and go to sleep.[biggrin]

[Eric SDV6SE]

Camping at Dwellingup WA154776

[SaltyNalty]

We hit up Preston Beach for lunch and a fish. We were the only car on the beach for a good amount of time.

Cheers,

Saltyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191008/5efc6877fa4c23a68ef545a1aa08b704.jpg

[NavyDiver]

Quiet late night drive to Port Fairy and back to Melb. Canola flowering, loads lambs and RAIN [biggrin]. 800km and still have a 1/4 of a tank left [thumbsupbig]

[Parso]

Timing belt service done today as they got the wrong kit last week. Guess I'm keeping this one for the next 7 years...

[Eric SDV6SE]

Replaced the OE h7 halogen globes (high beam infill) with the Stedi LED copperheads. Wow what a difference. True plug and play too. Will post photo later. Top quality gear from Stedi.

[Parso]

Replaced the OE h7 halogen globes (high beam infill) with the Stedi LED copperheads. Wow what a difference. True plug and play too. Will post photo later. Top quality gear from Stedi.

Please do. How much did it cost you?

[Eric SDV6SE]

Check out https://www.stedi.com.au/copper-head-h7-led-head-light-conversion-kit.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwrfvsBRD7ARIsAKuDvMNOKZJJ167 QGuoWLpJRfm_BlgbbNN-V_vPUP0cJU3BaejKF_AbcYGkaAgeUEALw_wcB

$129.99

[cripesamighty]

Would these be OK to fit an early D3 (2006 TDV6 SE) or am I outa luck?

[Eric SDV6SE]

Replaced the OE h7 halogen globes (high beam infill) with the Stedi LED copperheads. Wow what a difference. True plug and play too. Will post photo later. Top quality gear from Stedi.

As promised photo of the Stedi LED h7 infills. The entire globe, heatsinks canbus and leads fit inside the headlight housings, maintaining the dust sealing.

Dont know why the photo is upside down...
Still need to get a photo of the light spread outside.

154820

154826

[Eric SDV6SE]

Would these be OK to fit an early D3 (2006 TDV6 SE) or am I outa luck?

If the headlight housing is similar, and if you've got h7 globes, they should work. Check with Stedi though.

[RobA]

Well ours came back from the detailers looking like new. After 4.8 years and 113,000km of outback touring and despite me trying to keep it looking good it was time for a little professional rejuvenation. I didn't want an armourall and tyre black job, rather get it really clean inside and out plus engine bay. Could not see the sense in hiding the bush pinstripes as we are keeping it for one more year unless something changes in the space.

Overall I reckon the car deserved some special treatment to keep it looking great.

They did an excellent job. The stickers under the bonnet can now be read again and look new, leather has been cleaned so not a bit of dust anywhere to be seen, carpets steam cleaned et al. Even smells a bit posh but that will go away pretty quickly.

Now all it needs is a service and new windscreen and it will be ready to hitch up and go again

Rob

[scarry]

Well ours came back from the detailers looking like new. After 4.8 years and 113,000km of outback touring and despite me trying to keep it looking good it was time for a little professional rejuvenation. I didn't want an armourall and tyre black job, rather get it really clean inside and out plus engine bay. Could not see the sense in hiding the bush pinstripes as we are keeping it for one more year unless something changes in the space.

Overall I reckon the car deserved some special treatment to keep it looking great.

They did an excellent job. The stickers under the bonnet can now be read again and look new, leather has been cleaned so not a bit of dust anywhere to be seen, carpets steam cleaned et al. Even smells a bit posh but that will go away pretty quickly.

Now all it needs is a service and new windscreen and it will be ready to hitch up and go again

Rob

That’s exactly what mine needs.
After 7 yrs of outback touring,I just can’t get all that red dust out of it.

To be fair,the vehicle let’s less dust in while driving than any vehicle I have ever had.

The dust that does get in is mainly when we are stopped,with the doors or windows open for whatever reason,or on the farm,particularly in dry dusty,windy weather,which we have had a lot of in the last few years.

[Narangga]

It




Came




Home

:clap2: :arms: :thumbsup:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48879515487_66792b5536_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2htji22)

The explanation is here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-d3-d4-sticky-zone/125041-disco-3-4-automatic-transmission-faq-6-speed-60.html#post2943606

[brd]

“Well ours came back from the detailers looking like new”

Who did you use Rob?

Brent

[John_D4]

I found a 2nd hand aftermarket tow hitch. Definitely a better option than the standard one. It’s a bonus that the sensors don’t go off when reversing. I’m just in the middle of modifying the original cover as the open space does my head in

154854

[RobA]

“Well ours came back from the detailers looking like new”

Who did you use Rob?

Brent

Supreme Shine Mobile Detailing (https://www.supremeshinedetailing.com.au)

Booked him through my panel beater, Norwood Panel and Paint but you could go direct. Brilliant job very happy with it. He's mobile so could come to you I guess

Rob

[John_D4]

Supreme Shine Mobile Detailing (https://www.supremeshinedetailing.com.au)

Booked him through my panel beater, Norwood Panel and Paint but you could go direct. Brilliant job very happy with it. He's mobile so could come to you I guess

Rob

About how much did it cost Rob?

[RobA]

About how much did it cost Rob?

$450 and worth every cent

Rob

[DiscoJeffster]

EPB was telling me it was time for adjustment (beeping at me when I’d start the car - indicates tension loss while parked).
Took around 30 minutes. Wheels off, blow out drum with air compressor through adjustment hole (wow, so much crud (don’t breath it in!)), adjust as per the
Bible, done. Meant to be an annual task for me but life got in the way last year so it’s two years since.

[INter674]

GAP 11D BT tool arrived and after help from the youngest daughter we set it up for the D4 SC.

Plugged it in and scanned the 20 plus ecus........and for the first time for me.......NO Faults!

Certainly not the case with the now sold D2 TD5😐

So we happily checked out the Tool features inc suspension settings and so on.

Later we impressed some folk by using the air suspension to disconnect and reconnect the nag float. No more winding the troublesome jocky wheel😉

Gotta love this car.

[John_D4]

Like INTer674 I’m also impressed by the air suspension. We put 400kg of tiles in the back, started the car with the doors open, then closed the doors and watched the car return to normal ride height. Far out, it’s much faster than the D2 was! It shot to like a rocket!

Is it wouldn’t have been so much work we would have reloaded it so the tile sales dude could have been impressed to.

[INter674]

This may have been covered already but I noted using the GAP Tool cancels the speed alert and the auto up function on the front windows.
To restore: drop the windows then raise them. Let go the switch then lift the switch for 4 secs. Do it for all windows as needed.

[PerthDisco]

Perhaps better covered in this thread

Not my car but certainly an interesting day for this Disco driver;

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191028/fa75ac5ce1c9e15e09414101253e27b3.jpg

[INter674]

Ooops...thought it was mine for a moment! !

Looks like all the safety gear worked.

[jwb]

Fitted new wiper blades and adjusted the drivers side arm so it no longer annoyingly hits the a-pillar. Quiet and no juddering.

[Tombie]

Added another piece to the D4 puzzle...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191030/5ed5c3f631446e3ff7df4639acf6dcce.jpg

[josh.huber]

Bit late, but I've been away at work.
4x new air struts fitted. Front Sway Bar "d" rubbers.
Ride was a bit firm, steering was excellent. Tyre shop had put to much air in all round, Lowered pressures to placard. Much better.

Got home from work Tuesday.
Gap tool turned up after getting rid of my Rovacom IQ. Went round and checked my suspension Heights yesterday. Right rear was 15mm higher. Recalibrated the system heights. Took even more firmness out. Car feels great. Fitted two new SSB batteries. SS88TI starting and HVT50D Aux. I haven't had a aux in since my optima died a year ago. Gave the car a good wash. But will need to find the time to remove all the tar and give it a wax.
rocksliders should be fitted by Saturday I hope. Need to take my Tuffants into tyre shop for a balance and to have my blue tooth pressure monitors fitted.

[Narangga]

It went in for its 1,000km check on the new transmission. All good and happy days.... so far

[RANDLOVER]

I put mine in Sand Mode, as I normally do in traffic, as it makes the throttle more peppy, to combat the lane jumpers that try to cut in front of me if there is even a small gap.

[shamirj]

Changed my older fatter looking key fob to the newer version which is slimmer in design, worked a treat, very happy with it. secured a new silicone key fob cover as well worked a treat. now waiting to secure a replacement key.

changed the oil, filters routine service done. also replaced a new water housing outlet on top of the engine. was at a local LR indie who was talking to someone who needed a new engine as this housing had let go and loss coolant then subsequent engine damage. purchased a new scanner as well to read and clear faults.

[loanrangie]

I put mine in Sand Mode, as I normally do in traffic, as it makes the throttle more peppy, to combat the lane jumpers that try to cut in front of me if there is even a small gap.

Is it better than using sport mode on the trans ?

[RANDLOVER]

Is it better than using sport mode on the trans ?

Yes, I find Sand Mode makes the throttle response much quicker, it can actually snap my head back if I forget and stomp on the go pedal. I've also forgotten and had it launch forwards or backwards when parking, which gave me a bit of a fright, being so close to other cars/obstacles.

[101RRS]

Is it better than using sport mode on the trans ?

Noting that Sport mode changes the gearchange points and makes it hang on in gears, there is no difference when you take off in first - it is not until the gearbox needs to change to second that the difference in sport mode start to kick in.

I have also heard that Sand makes take-off a bit more perky but when I have tried it I have not noticed it.

Garry

[Dagilmo]

In my experience, there is a noticeable difference in throttle response in sand mode.

[DiscoJeffster]

In my experience, there is a noticeable difference in throttle response in sand mode.

Absolutely. The throttle map is quite different

[shamirj]

hi all,

Fitted my new RAI (kinda snorkel) today, cheaper version of the real deal, needed some rejigging to make work but got there in the end. I use to be a big fan of Aussie made snorkels but that version needed the inner guard cut up which never looks factory fitted to me when completed so in recent years have gone with the RAI which is far easier to install and no inner guard cutting.

They also supply two rivnuts so without the tool looked around and found two series plates with already welded nuts which worked perfectly for securing the RAI from behind the guard.

Another item ticked off the growing list of things to do on the D4. cheers

[goofyr]

hi all,

Fitted my new RAI (kinda snorkel) today, cheaper version of the real deal, needed some rejigging to make work but got there in the end. I use to be a big fan of Aussie made snorkels but that version needed the inner guard cut up which never looks factory fitted to me when completed so in recent years have gone with the RAI which is far easier to install and no inner guard cutting.

They also supply two rivnuts so without the tool looked around and found two series plates with already welded nuts which worked perfectly for securing the RAI from behind the guard.

Another item ticked off the growing list of things to do on the D4. cheers

Nice, where did you get it?

[Tombie]

hi all,

Fitted my new RAI (kinda snorkel) today, cheaper version of the real deal, needed some rejigging to make work but got there in the end. I use to be a big fan of Aussie made snorkels but that version needed the inner guard cut up which never looks factory fitted to me when completed so in recent years have gone with the RAI which is far easier to install and no inner guard cutting.

They also supply two rivnuts so without the tool looked around and found two series plates with already welded nuts which worked perfectly for securing the RAI from behind the guard.

Another item ticked off the growing list of things to do on the D4. cheers

Yes, tormented me greatly wanting the factory look.
In the end it was Airflow capacity and sealing that won out - Went Safari for that reason.

There’s something about carving into a vehicle that still has me pause... I used a finger sander to finish the inner guard - it came up looking factory cut and then painted it and fitted the inner flange.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191104/74d441c24032e4b806bb68cba7c9ba26.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191104/8d51e3d2efeb7958dbcdde5487675cc9.jpg

[shamirj]

Mine was an ebay purchase for around $150 delivered. Tombie nice clean look on that inner guard, well done. My newer version RAI has some additional air scoops on front which the older ones fitted before did not. This allows air intake to occur from the front as well as the main rear of the snorkel head.

[Disco-tastic]

Recovered the centre console armrest with a $40 ebay pleather replacement. Stretching it round the curves was hard but theres no more cracks and its much softer! Hopefully it wears ok

[RANDLOVER]

Yesterday I replaced my LH Rear Mud Flap, as half it fell off, I suspect it got cracked a few weeks ago, when I drove over a large Kangaroo carcass in the dark. Luckily I kept the LH one of the set, after replacing the RHR a few years ago, after my first foray into off road driving when I fell into a 600mm hole that ripped the RHR flap off and broke the clips on the strips at the bottom of the doors. What a drama that was, as there are actually 3 sizes, a little one which is more like a part of the wheel arch, with no flap, and a medium one which is what overseas models use, and then a large one, for Australia's dirt roads.

[RANDLOVER]

Mine decided to lock my wife out of the vehicle yesterday when the tailgate release solenoid failed and put the locking system into error. My local LR Mechanic has three D4's booked in in the next week for exactly the same issue. :wallbash:

Saw this in my latest LRO November mag, seems to be a permanent fix.

Discovery 3 & 4 Tailgate Latch Repair Kit (https://www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk/store/Discovery-3-&-4-Tailgate-Latch-Repair-Kit-p146398307)

https://dqzrr9k4bjpzk.cloudfront.net/images/11178065/1125590440.jpg
(https://dqzrr9k4bjpzk.cloudfront.net/images/11178065/1125590440.jpg)

[LRD414]

Saw this in my latest LRO November mag, seems to be a permanent fix.
This doesn’t help if the actuator itself has failed, which seems to be the issue for approx. half the failed tailgate latches I’ve seen or read. Also the wire connector design was upgraded at some point and is much less likely to break like the early ones.

Regards,
Scott

[PerthDisco]

Recovered the centre console armrest with a $40 ebay pleather replacement. Stretching it round the curves was hard but theres no more cracks and its much softer! Hopefully it wears ok

Do you have the link please?

I’ve been using duct tape for quite a while. Keen to do something better.

[SaltyNalty]

We completed the Holland Track over the weekend. We left Perth Friday morning and returned yesterday. The Discovery handled it with ease and of course comfort. The only casualty was the float on the low coolant sensor which appears to have sunk. I've ordered a new overflow reservoir.

Cheers,

Saltyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/c0fd29fd6dd56a401fa68a0e9d81e19b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/bb1a8fca5221816cec9a01f41ac46343.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/eda0028a81a152db666abb067ec0c2d7.jpg

[Disco-tastic]

Do you have the link please?

I’ve been using duct tape for quite a while. Keen to do something better.Leather Armrest Console Lid Cover Fits Land Rover Discovery LR3 LR4 06-16 Black | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0'mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2 F222569665307)

I found it hard to get it tight round the internal corners at the rear, and it will probably need a touch up at some point. Id recommend you cut into the corners as much as you can to get it tight, because if its not tight it will rub against the silver trim pieces and may come loose.

[rocket rod]

We completed the Holland Track over the weekend. We left Perth Friday morning and returned yesterday. The Discovery handled it with ease and of course comfort. The only casualty was the float on the low coolant sensor which appears to have sunk. I've ordered a new overflow reservoir.

Cheers,

Saltyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/c0fd29fd6dd56a401fa68a0e9d81e19b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/bb1a8fca5221816cec9a01f41ac46343.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/eda0028a81a152db666abb067ec0c2d7.jpg

I notice you have a tyre only on the roof. Have you tried to take a dud tyre off a rim before? It's very difficult if not impossible. So taking just a tyre maybe false security?

[Tombie]

Conversely carrying the full weight of a rim and spare can cause more failures.

It is a juggling act, having the carcass at the least means any workshop you may limp to can fit a tyre straight away.

I never carry more than 1 spare, and touch wood, have never required it. This is well over a million kilometres of offroad driving.

[SaltyNalty]

I notice you have a tyre only on the roof. Have you tried to take a dud tyre off a rim before? It's very difficult if not impossible. So taking just a tyre maybe false security?I do realise it's a lot of work with the tyre levers and it is a second spare. My thought process is, I'd rather labour over a tyre change than leave the car on the track while I get a tyre repaired or replaced.

Cheers,

Salty.

[INter674]

Maybe I'm becoming paranoid but after reading about so many failures with the D3/4 tailgate release I decided to install a back up cable.

I used the guidance of many posts on Aulro and managed the task reasonably easily. See procedure posted by Scott Humphries.

I reused a Patrol fuel release cable inserting the cable end thru a drilled hole on the tab next to where the OE cable end fits and ran the cable thru the wiring grommet to the area under the rear seats with a simple loop on the cable end to actuate the lock..with the outer inserted back into the Nissan mounting block.

Hold the block and pull the cable and click goes the lock release.

On the latch proper I secured the cable outer which had a grooved end into a groove cut into the latch plastic next to where the original fits and zip tied the two outers together.

I examined the factory actuator and cable and could see no wear or tear at all. The design does look a bit weak tho and it amazes me that LR has not provided an emergency release in case of a person getting stuck in the back..eg..between a cargo barrier and the hatch.

[Pippin]

Replaced LHF wheel bearing hub with non Timken bearings not long ago to save money 18,000ks later they are shot. I have an unused spare that I might as well put in the bin and will now do what I should have done in the first place.[bawl]

[scarry]

We completed the Holland Track over the weekend. We left Perth Friday morning and returned yesterday. The Discovery handled it with ease and of course comfort. The only casualty was the float on the low coolant sensor which appears to have sunk. I've ordered a new overflow reservoir.

Cheers,

Saltyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/c0fd29fd6dd56a401fa68a0e9d81e19b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/bb1a8fca5221816cec9a01f41ac46343.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191105/eda0028a81a152db666abb067ec0c2d7.jpg

Nice pics.

How handy is the tailgate,its a shame they have been dropped in many later model vehicles.

I am the same as Tombie,have carried two spares,then dropped down to a spare and a carcase,now just take one spare,and a plug kit,and air compresser,which i took all the time as well,anyway.
And thats for remote area travel,over 20yrs,haven't had a puncture.
But i have also always run high load rated LT tyres.

Yours look like 17's,so heaps of good choices available.

[matti4556]

I do realise it's a lot of work with the tyre levers and it is a second spare. My thought process is, I'd rather labour over a tyre change than leave the car on the track while I get a tyre repaired or replaced.

Cheers,

Salty.

Rocket Rod - as you know, if you have anything remotely resembling a spare wheel and tyre or even just the carcass like Salty has on his roof rack; or even just a half empty plug kit floating around somewhere in the back, Murphy says you wont get a flat. [smilebigeye]
Now, try to leave home without one and ! hssssssssssss. [bigsad]
Matti

[matti4556]

Replaced my two D34 Optimas under the bonnet the other weekend. 5 years old and both won't take a charge. I'm happy with that length of service. The permanent fridge in the car is now happy too and goes for a couple of days off grid before shutting down.
Matti

[DiscoJeffster]

Was told the end play/float on my 3L crank was excessive while it was being inspected today during a body off. To be honest when you pull it back and forward it moves a noticeable amount and knocks - noticeable amount by hand is clearly too much.
Sigh.

[PerthDisco]

Leather Armrest Console Lid Cover Fits Land Rover Discovery LR3 LR4 06-16 Black | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0'mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2 F222569665307)

I found it hard to get it tight round the internal corners at the rear, and it will probably need a touch up at some point. Id recommend you cut into the corners as much as you can to get it tight, because if its not tight it will rub against the silver trim pieces and may come loose.

Do you glue it or is it purely a stretch fit?

[Tombie]

The Wetseat Co will make a Neoprene on to protect the original [emoji6]

[INter674]

Replaced LHF wheel bearing hub with non Timken bearings not long ago to save money 18,000ks later they are shot. I have an unused spare that I might as well put in the bin and will now do what I should have done in the first place.[bawl]

....yeah...been there with the D2A...aftermarket are junk...the seal usually fails early then the bearing goes. I replaced them all with gen and kept one chinesium unit for a spare when travelling. Costly lesson indeed😐

[Disco-tastic]

Do you glue it or is it purely a stretch fit?I used spray contact adhesive though would recommend the non spray version as it's easier to apply beneath the edges. I glued the whole thing down though the priginal is only glued at the edges onto the plastic.

The material is hard to trim with a blade. Scissors are much easier, though I couldnt get into the tighter corners with them. I would definitely make a better job of it the 2nd time round!

[BradC]

Was told the end play/float on my 3L crank was excessive while it was being inspected today during a body off. To be honest when you pull it back and forward it moves a noticeable amount and knocks - noticeable amount by hand is clearly too much.
Sigh.

To state the bleedin' obvious, that doesn't sound good. I could understand it with a manual box as there is fairly significant clutch pressure, but in an Auto what puts thrust load on the crank? Be sure to get pics of the crank and bearings when it comes out.

To stay on topic, today I put air in the tyres and drove it for the first time in about 6 weeks. It hasn't broken down yet, but then I've still got to drive it home tonight.

[John_D4]

I found this crack in the rear drivers light. Big sad face. No idea how it’s happened. I priced a new one and decided that I might see if I can push the cracked bits straight and add some glue in the short term. I’ve got a can belt replacement at the next servicehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191106/7d0b924f6696dc8d281d3a7bf1a4c2f4.jpg

[scarry]

I found this crack in the rear drivers light. Big sad face. No idea how it’s happened. I priced a new one and decided that I might see if I can push the cracked bits straight and add some glue in the short term. I’ve got a can belt replacement at the next servicehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191106/7d0b924f6696dc8d281d3a7bf1a4c2f4.jpg

Just leave it ,as long as the light works.
One day someone may run into you and it will get fixed for free.

Just my 2 cents worth[biggrin]

[John_D4]

Just leave it ,as long as the light works.
One day someone may run into you and it will get fixed for free.

Just my 2 cents worth[biggrin]

Agreed, I was just concerned about water filling it up and shorting something

[scarry]

Replaced LHF wheel bearing hub with non Timken bearings not long ago to save money 18,000ks later they are shot. I have an unused spare that I might as well put in the bin and will now do what I should have done in the first place.[bawl]

Buy cheap,pay twice...[bigsad]

I just replaced the plastic piece on both front seat belts that hold up the buckle so it doesn't slip down on the belt,when the belt is not in use.

Hopefully i have explained that properly.[biggrin]

Got them from a seat belt place,$5.00 for two,easy to fit,just press on.

Hoping they last longer than the originals.

[gavinwibrow]

Hopefully this might help someone in the future.
Got the Tug back from DazzaTD5 today after 2 frustrating weeks away (for both of us).
Turns out the ABS main connection plug had dirty terminals/contacts (and a couple of dodgy solders which in turn caused a whole lot of other faults.
Tug has done 250K+ km, with a fair bit of country and some bush towing km involved, so should not have been totally unexpected?
So next time your GAP Tool shows a whole lot of faults and the car wont start - could be a good place to start diagnostics!
Cheers and again thanks to Dazza and his patience - maybe just as well he serviced lift platforms in a former life?

[josh.huber]

10k service, bit of parts ordering, fitted ProSpeed Rock sliders (thanks gumtree), quicklyncs battery's monitors, used gap to reflash some modules (both doors, atcm, compressor, instruments). Made a booking at dealer to get nav updated finally. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191106/2397e4050fd5d55965d20cb9c8280d4e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191106/16e4b1a0d215663a4663d3ffd8c37bf7.jpg

[Narangga]

Conversely carrying the full weight of a rim and spare can cause more failures.

It is a juggling act, having the carcass at the least means any workshop you may limp to can fit a tyre straight away.

I never carry more than 1 spare, and touch wood, have never required it. This is well over a million kilometres of offroad driving.

While I can change a wheel, I am not competent enough to change a tyre. In that I follow in my late father's footsteps. We lived in country SA and even back in the 60s the only thing he would order with his new car was a sixth rim. He reasoned that the most likely time to get a flat tyre was at 12.01pm on a Saturday afternoon when there was a long trip planned and the local tyre place (read MS McLeod for those in SA who remember [smilebigeye]) would be closed. Rather than carry the said wood, I instead have a sixth wheel which goes with us on long trips and those trips are usually time critical so changing a wheel is quicker than changing a tyre. It also means I rotate tyres in pairs between axles and so can spread the kilometres so that I am not having to pay for a new set of tyres all at once.


Rocket Rod - as you know, if you have anything remotely resembling a spare wheel and tyre or even just the carcass like Salty has on his roof rack; or even just a half empty plug kit floating around somewhere in the back, Murphy says you wont get a flat. [smilebigeye]
Now, try to leave home without one and ! hssssssssssss. [bigsad]
Matti

Please see above.
QED. [bigwhistle]

[josh.huber]

Was told the end play/float on my 3L crank was excessive while it was being inspected today during a body off. To be honest when you pull it back and forward it moves a noticeable amount and knocks - noticeable amount by hand is clearly too much.
Sigh.

Wow, just wow! Is it still running sweet? How many k's? Hopefully they can do a bearing roll, but the extra labour won't feel nice.

[Tombie]

While I can change a wheel, I am not competent enough to change a tyre. In that I follow in my late father's footsteps. We lived in country SA and even back in the 60s the only thing he would order with his new car was a sixth rim. He reasoned that the most likely time to get a flat tyre was at 12.01pm on a Saturday afternoon when there was a long trip planned and the local tyre place (read MS McLeod for those in SA who remember [smilebigeye]) would be closed. Rather than carry the said wood, I instead have a sixth wheel which goes with us on long trips and those trips are usually time critical so changing a wheel is quicker than changing a tyre. It also means I rotate tyres in pairs between axles and so can spread the kilometres so that I am not having to pay for a new set of tyres all at once.



Please see above.
QED. [bigwhistle]

As long as you’re wearing them all out before 5 years you should be fine..

After 5 years the odds are that tyre problems are more likely to occur.

[Narangga]

As long as you’re wearing them all out before 5 years you should be fine..

After 5 years the odds are that tyre problems are more likely to occur.

Thanks for the reminder. :thumbsup:
I keep a record of them so know when each set were bought and at the current rate the last pair will be gone before the 4th anniversary.

[DiscoJeffster]

Wow, just wow! Is it still running sweet? How many k's? Hopefully they can do a bearing roll, but the extra labour won't feel nice.

Yes running fine. Expect that the crank is serviceable just needs new bearings all round. Can do it without head removal taking it out from the bottom but it adds another $4k to the original cost. It’s one of those conundrums. The car is worth what, $20k trade in as a 2010 HSE. Spending near on $10k on a $20k car.... replacement lower km version of the same somewhere in the high $30k. Sod’s law the gearbox goes next, or turbos. Anyhow. Thread needed.

[josh.huber]

Adding 4 K seems excessive for a bearing roll

[wiggy781]

Fitted an iKamper RTT. Looking forward to spending a significant amount of my time in it!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191108/866735167fd1b3e79f89da585de92a01.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191108/d94f6d418c7ba91f6dd712543515bebf.jpg

[DiscoJeffster]

Adding 4 K seems excessive for a bearing roll

Includes parts and labour. It’s a bit of work to get the crank out from the bottom. Also includes new oil pump, bearings, seals, etc. agree though, it was at the point I questioned calling it quits for it.

[Mungus]

Pulled up at a remote work site this week after 500kms at 140km/h (sorry 130km/h as per speed limit) and heard and felt a horrible grinding when I applied the brakes. Very slowly reversed to park and it was much worse; actually stopped all vehicle movement. Nearly did one of my stupid knee jerk moments and planted the foot to get motion, but thankfully reconsidered. What I found was a loose left hand brake caliper. Only just had the local dealer fit new DBA slotted rotors and Pedders ceramic pads a couple of months ago. Just like how they left the castor bolts loose (all of them) (oh, and left the gearbox protection plate off; for the second time and this time lost it in their workshop - i had to go find it); they have apparently not tightened the calipers properly either. Has worn a slight mark on the inner side of the rim and a couple of dags where it grabbed when reversed. The top bolt was so close to falling out. Temporarily tightened with a shifter end on, with another on that shifter for the trip home and then again a little tighter with a 21mm socket at home, but will do them properly this weekend with thread lock and torque them up as spec'd to 275Nm. Thought the bolts were large Torx style at first (hence the two shifters as my biggest socket was a 21mm hex impact), but a quick search here and Bodsy's Brake bible and found they are 21mm bi-hex. Guess what was added to the tool bag. I'll be checking the back calipers as well. Out of warranty now, so off to find a decent Indy?

[goofyr]

Fitted these tonight. Relatively simple upgrade, hardest thing is getting my hand in to twist the led into place. But is a big improvement and looks great.

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/7bbf60169752184769c02d664a6ee4dc.jpg

[John_D4]

A trip to the tyre dude to get the Trek screw and the piece of steel removed from the tyre. Then I also noticed that 1 of the 5 off road tyres in the shed had a nail in it so it also got fixed.

Nice to see a tyre shop that uses a torque wrench. Is 130psi correct for the wheel nuts?

While I was there I was listening to the guy tell a lady to ignore the tyre placard and go higher. I normally fill my tyre to whatever is written on it (can’t quite remember). What psi are others running in their 255/55/19’s ?

It was funny to watch them put the jack under the diff and watch the incredible suspension travel. They couldn’t lift the tyres of the ground and had to find a different jacking point!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191108/3df4b8234c42750a9e6b9cac10e4e70b.jpg

[DieselLSE]

140Nm or 103ft/lb. Yes, they can easily be over-tightened. Jacking points on chassis are best. There's also one on the front cross member that raises the whole front evenly.
Tyre pressures depend on load and accessories. For a base car I'd be looking at around 34 to 36psi front and 38 to 40psi rear for on-road.

[Dagilmo]

I took the compomotives off and put the 19" LR wheels on. The 18" have not so good Cooper AT3s and the 19" near new Conti UHPs. Remarkable difference with ride and handling on the road. Mental note to self: Worth the 30 mins to change them over and need make the effort between off road trips. Also, zinc anti seized the studs and put some copper grease on the brake pad carriers- well the ones I could get to. Hoping the cooper grease gets them moving. In the mornings after first application of the brakes it seems the pads stay in semi contact with the disc causing a squeal until a couple of applications. After that they are they are fine for the day.

[INter674]

Have had a slight loss of coolant on the D4 SC since buying the car..which we suspected at the time but was assured by the cafe owner that it had been fixed with a new water pump.

Also decided to replace the supercharger coupler which are known to give trouble...eg rattles.

Tried using the manual but quickly realised it is largely useless so just worked steadily removing hoses and electrical connectors wherever they looked to be in the way. There are 2 connectors at the back of the sc which are truly a pia to get at.
Got the top cover off pretty easily but the sc itself was really hard to budge off its locating pins. Levering steadily up and down it finally let go.

On the bench the oil was drained and the snout removed and new bearings pressed in. With new oil it was done. The spring coupler was shot with large amounts of movement from the spring wearing into its plastic housing. Replaced with a gen Eaton solid coupler from the good ol USA.

Noticed a pool of coolant in the valley which appeared to be coming from a hard plastic crossover pipe connecting the heads. The o rings on removal were very flat

Pulled the water pump which is new and noticed the pipe connecting the pump to the oil cooler in the valley was askew.

Looks like the mechanic that fitted the new pump had not located the pipe and seal correctly. ...so it was leaking.

Ordered a new oil cooler feed pipe and head cross-over pipe from the dealer...which will take a couple days to get here cause there's issues with the new wharehouse😐

Anyhow...once assembled it should leak no more☺

Glad I beat the cafe owner down on the price.. something tells me he was telling a few porkies😎

Total cost will be less than 500 bucks inc the sc rebuild.

[John_D4]

Have had a slight loss of coolant on the D4 SC since buying the car..which we suspected at the time but was assured by the cafe owner that it had been fixed with a new water pump.

Also decided to replace the supercharger coupler which are known to give trouble...eg rattles.

Tried using the manual but quickly realised it is largely useless so just worked steadily removing hoses and electrical connectors wherever they looked to be in the way. There are 2 connectors at the back of the sc which are truly a pia to get at.
Got the top cover off pretty easily but the sc itself was really hard to budge off its locating pins. Levering steadily up and down it finally let go.

On the bench the oil was drained and the snout removed and new bearings pressed in. With new oil it was done. The spring coupler was shot with large amounts of movement from the spring wearing into its plastic housing. Replaced with a gen Eaton solid coupler from the good ol USA.

Noticed a pool of coolant in the valley which appeared to be coming from a hard plastic crossover pipe connecting the heads. The o rings on removal were very flat

Pulled the water pump which is new and noticed the pipe connecting the pump to the oil cooler in the valley was askew.

Looks like the mechanic that fitted the new pump had not located the pipe and seal correctly. ...so it was leaking.

Ordered a new oil cooler feed pipe and head cross-over pipe from the dealer...which will take a couple days to get here cause there's issues with the new wharehouse[emoji52]

Anyhow...once assembled it should leak no more[emoji5]

Glad I beat the cafe owner down on the price.. something tells me he was telling a few porkies[emoji41]

Total cost will be less than 500 bucks inc the sc rebuild.

Cripes, you got all that done in a day?

[DiscoJeffster]

Tried using the manual but quickly realised it is largely useless

Yeah I’ve had a lot of manufacturer manuals in my time and the Land Rover ones are generally awful in comparison. The random zoomed in picture of some part of the car with a part highlighted with no explanation leaves a lot to be desired. I do admit they are a complicated vehicle with large manuals, but still [emoji6]

[INter674]

Yeah could easily have got it all back together in a day if I'd ordered the parts earlier.. should have taken more note of the US sites which are very informative on these engines eg supercharger rebuild.

I wasted 2 hours trying to find and print off info from the manual. ...lots of pictures but little explanation.

I found the engine quite easy to access once I worked out how to eg drain the coolant. . Which the manual seems to presume the whole front skirt is off to access the radiator 😐. I ended up just reefing a hose off a cooler under the engine. Even that involved undoing 5 bolts and one stupid spring clamp.

Working out how to unplug the connectors is also a chore as they vary a lot in design. I almost cut the back ones after getting now where for half an hour. ...but then they let go with some persuasion from big screwdrivers☺

Could not get the fan off tho as the 10mm bolts were so tight they would have sheared but fortunately the water pump just wiggled out from behind it. I suspect this is what caused the last repair to go wrong. But with the sc off I can see where and how the little tube at the back actually seats on both the pump and oil cooler spigot.

Good thing is the connectors will go back on a lot easier!

[INter674]

155542

Looks like this atm. The small pipe at front is where the plastic tube connects to the oil cooler and water pump. Next to that a y shaped hard plastic sssembly plugs in then winding its way up to the frontal area. There are 5 o rings in this assembly so lots to go wrong and in an impossible location for daily maintenance.

Don't know why they did not use a more reliable system eg fabbed ss tube would be better.

[INter674]

155543

Supercharger waiting to go back on. Only 6 bolts hold it in place onto the inlet manifolds. Again design/location is poor in that you can't remove the snout for repair without removing the whole unit. There is no drain either and the fill plug is located im****ibly between the sc body and a bracket at the back of the engine bay. Sealed for life of course....as if!!

Oil is even more expensive than ZF tranny fluid!

[josh.huber]

Changed the drive belt, tensioner and idler today. Took photos of the bearings incase anyone else is getting close to being due. Both are easy to change. And cheap common bearings.

[josh.huber]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191113/a2ee2ee6f8176084958e322eefed7e01.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191113/ff998abc2db0705e8e705680cf520fcf.jpg

That's the bearing on the idler.

Bearing on the tensioner.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191113/c2de8c63c6195b236291d97e05655b10.jpg

[josh.huber]

Also the whole engine cover vs top radiator hose thing, I released the clamp and rotated the hose a little when I replaced it. No where near touching anymore. No cutting required.

[INter674]

155543

Supercharger waiting to go back on. Only 6 bolts hold it in place onto the inlet manifolds. Again design/location is poor in that you can't remove the snout for repair without removing the whole unit. There is no drain either and the fill plug is located im****ibly between the sc body and a bracket at the back of the engine bay. Sealed for life of course....as if!!

Oil is even more expensive than ZF tranny fluid!


Got the parts yesterday...but of course the new y shaped pipe connecting the heads was different in design. LR has changed from a welded plastic pipe to what looks like a fully moulded pipe with no seams.

Good? Well no as they changed the diameter of the top section meaning it would not mate with my next section! You need to buy the next 2 sections as well....which of course the dealer did not know about. So I ended up using the o rings from the new part and put the existing section back in...after thoroughly examining and pressure testing it first.

Can't return the new section tho as it was a "special order" and in any event I used the o rings... so not too fussed about that weird policy. Cost 100 bucks for 2 o rings in effect.

I'll now comnence a new parts stock for the D4 just like the TD5 which ended up being several boxes😆

Anyhow after bleeding the system and connecting a hose that I'd forgot about.. it's all good.

No more rattles from the supercharger. ..engine is even quieter now.

Overall removing the sc is not that difficult..just lots of bolts and hoses and electrical stuff. I'm pretty confident it could be done in a couple of hours.

Cost.. ..including the wrong part. . for the inlet gaskets x 2, sc coupler, pipes x 2 and sc bearings and sc oil was @ 480 bucks. Coolant was new anyway so I reused most of it.

Cost for the dealer to do I guess would be well over 1500 bucks based on US experience. Cost could be reduced further by pre ordering parts eg from the US or UK as there is little aftermarket support for the V6 sc engine in Australia.

The sc bearings for example turned out to be one very common NSK and one special double row NSK both of which are available from a bearing shop at @ half the price I paid for the "special" OE Eaton US - sourced ones (inc freight).

[Tombie]

Excellent work.

Enjoy your new machine [emoji106]

[shanegtr]

New transfer case shift motor installed today. The old one wore out the plastic gear and eventually causes it to skip the tooth - clutch actuator stuck fault code logged. I suspected the shift motor fairly early due to audioble clicking in the area when the ignition was turned on

[DiscoJeffster]

New transfer case shift motor installed today. The old one wore out the plastic gear and eventually causes it to skip the tooth - clutch actuator stuck fault code logged. I suspected the shift motor fairly early due to audioble clicking in the area when the ignition was turned on

Interesting. I’d have thought the shift motor was only actuated when changing range so low probability of failure for most.

[shanegtr]

Interesting. I’d have thought the shift motor was only actuated when changing range so low probability of failure for most.
No, the shift motor also does the centre diff clutch pre load. Theres also a solenoid that swaps the function of the motor

[DiscoJeffster]

No, the shift motor also does the centre diff clutch pre load. Theres also a solenoid that swaps the function of the motor

****ing fantastic. I’ll add that to the list of the next things to go wrong, after the gearbox, front diff etc. lol. FML

[BMKal]

Well, mine has just had it's "mid-life" birthday. Both timing belts and water pump replaced, transmission serviced and new metal pan installed, and a general service including all oils, filters etc and a couple of hoses which I had asked to be replaced.

There's no Land Rover dealership or "indy" up here with any specific knowledge of Land Rovers and I was planning to take it to the dealership in Perth where I bought it (Barbagallo's). I had the work quoted by the dealership, and also by the local ARB shop, Goldfields Offroad, which is also the authorised Repco Service Centre. The owners of this business are Land Rover fanatics and have a few between them. They have a very good name around town, and did the last routine service on my D4 with no issues. Both quotes came back very close to each other, with the local business offering the advantage of no travel and accommodation cost on top - so they got the job.

Have to say that I am very happy with the service that they have provided (again) and I have no hesitation in recommending this business to anyone else (Land Rover owners or others). While mine was in there, they also had an RRS come in for service, so are becoming known locally for their ability to work on Land Rover products.

[matti4556]

Interesting. I’d have thought the shift motor was only actuated when changing range so low probability of failure for most.

Its actually a good read of the systems operation in the workshop manual.
Here is an extract from the "4 Wheel Drive Systems" section to whet your appetite for further reading....
GENERAL
The DD295 transfer box is a full time, permanent four-wheel-drive unit, with 50/50 torque distribution to the front and rear
driveshafts. The unit is manufactured by Magna Steyr Powertrain in Graz, Austria and supports the following features:
􀁺 Permanent four-wheel-drive with a bevel gear centre differential, providing a 50:50 torque split
􀁺 Selectable high and low range for optimum on-road and off-road performance
􀁺 Two-speed, fully synchronized 'shift-on-the-move' system allows the driver to change the range without having to
stop the vehicle
􀁺 Electronically controlled multi-plate clutch providing a centre differential lock and torque biasing function to give
improved traction performance and vehicle dynamic stability.
A strategy, to electronically control the centre differential multi plate clutch assembly, has been developed to provide:
􀁺 a pre-loading function, increasing locking torque with increased driving torque
􀁺 a slip controller to increase locking torque under off-road conditions and decrease locking torque for optimum
comfort, e.g. parking.
The unit is located under the vehicle and is mounted on the cross-member, behind the transmission. The unit is identical
for all engine derivatives.
The transfer box receives a torque input from the transmission output shaft, which is passed through the unit to two
outputs for the front and rear drive shafts.
The input torque is equally distributed via a bevel gear type differential. In order to provide an optimal torque distribution
to each wheel in all driving conditions, the unit is equipped with an electronically controlled locking and torque-biasing
device. This device detects wheel slip via various vehicle system inputs to the transfer box control module and locks the
differential accordingly. The locking torque is applied through a multi-plate clutch assembly.
A planetary gear set, located in the differential assembly, allows the driver to select high or low range whilst driving, this is
known as 'shift on the move'. When in low range, the planetary gear set provides a ratio of 2.93:1, which gives the vehicle
an extremely low crawl speed for off road driving and trailer towing. High range is a direct drive from the transmission
output shaft and provides a 1:1 ratio.
Both the centre differential locking and biasing and the 'shift on the move' features are actuated via a DC transfer box
motor, which is controlled by the transfer box control module, via a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) signal.

Oh - and in keeping with the meaning of the thread topic - The D3 got a wheel balance and rotate late last week. Its amazing the difference and how a poor balance sneaks up on you and you don't realise how bad it is until you get them balanced again.

Cheers Matti

[shamirj]

Bought off ebay $45 pair delivered. new canvas bags pair of, to suit my own drawers

1 pair of canvas bags as they come perfect fit for my drawers
2 fitted one for the left drawer and...
3 one for the right side drawer

Not completely happy with the stuff inside the bags just threw in what was actually in the drawers that fitted but need to better organise my gear. Very happy with the price and quality with large zippers and see through means i know exactly and easily whats inside each bag. Did look into drifta canvas bags but the price was a factor.

[gavinwibrow]

Bought off ebay $45 pair delivered. new canvas bags pair of, to suit my own drawers

1 pair of canvas bags as they come perfect fit for my drawers
2 fitted one for the left drawer and...
3 one for the right side drawer

Not completely happy with the stuff inside the bags just threw in what was actually in the drawers that fitted but need to better organise my gear. Very happy with the price and quality with large zippers and see through means i know exactly and easily whats inside each bag. Did look into drifta canvas bags but the price was a factor.


Also a very good size to fit in the two top bins either side of 6&7 seats

[shamirj]

This size is way too big for that area bit i did buy the smaller size for the cargo storage compartments on top, see pics

[gavinwibrow]

This size is way too big for that area bit i did buy the smaller size for the cargo storage compartments on top, see pics


You are right of course - didn't realize there were multiple sizes

[josh.huber]

Sunday brake job. Front rotors pads and caliper slide regreased, fluid flush. RDA rotors, TRW pads, Bosch fluid, Bendix grease. I'll need to do the rubbers next set of pads. They're starting to get a bit ****ty. Cheap enough on eBay with slide pins but. The rubber on the end of the slide pin is starting to "grow" and was causing them to be a bit stiff. The new grease has them sorted till next pads.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191125/44548880975e5f82c9c4d94e7843c18b.jpg

Also I found this end cap in my shed. Didn't use it on my compressor rebuild. It's X8R or whatever he calls himself brand. Free to good home. PM your address and pay postage. I've never used it my standard one was fine at rebuild.

[josh.huber]

Sunday brake job. Front rotors pads and caliper slide regreased, fluid flush. RDA rotors, TRW pads, Bosch fluid, Bendix grease. I'll need to do the rubbers next set of pads. They're starting to get a bit ****ty. Cheap enough on eBay with slide pins but. The rubber on the end of the slide pin is starting to "grow" and was causing them to be a bit stiff. The new grease has them sorted till next pads.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191125/44548880975e5f82c9c4d94e7843c18b.jpg

Also I found this end cap in my shed. Didn't use it on my compressor rebuild. It's X8R or whatever he calls himself brand. Free to good home. PM your address and pay postage. I've never used it my standard one was fine at rebuild.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191125/9def1d712bb9bf32189a33b12275b749.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191125/173e68e0aa940f87f7073c4f126fcf18.jpg

[Pippin]

My D3 parted company with its High Level Stop Lamp Assembly, it had only been on there a year and now lies in bits. The windscreen guy obviously used a useless activator as there was no adhesive still attached to the assembly. Another $225 wasted. Nick[bawl]

[jwb]

Installed one LED and waiting for dark to compare to the original halogen...

[PerthDisco]

My D3 parted company with its High Level Stop Lamp Assembly, it had only been on there a year and now lies in bits. The windscreen guy obviously used a useless activator as there was no adhesive still attached to the assembly. Another $225 wasted. Nick[bawl]

This can only be done by a windscreen installation company. Getting the glue right is a tricky job

[gavinwibrow]

Installed one LED and waiting for dark to compare to the original halogen...


Good thinking and extremely interested in the comparison/outcome!

[Eric SDV6SE]

Installed one LED and waiting for dark to compare to the original halogen...

You won't be dissapointed....

[jwb]

Good thinking and extremely interested in the comparison/outcome!


Not conclusive due to the surroundings. Definitely more light on the LED (left) and whiter as I drove around trying to find somewhere with no street lights.
Those fill in lights really light up the possums in the trees.

Stedi offer a 30 day change of mind return so I'll run them for a while.

155979155980

[Tombie]

I have a Lux meter. I’ll take some readings when I get a change with a set here...

Remember glare doesn’t mean bright, it may appear so but won’t have the depth needed. Keep that in mind when assessing how they’re going.

[RANDLOVER]

Not my Disco, but I notice the Nov Dec 2019 issue of PAt Callinan's 4x4 Adventures has the temerity to show a D4 in a workshop and on the back of a tilt truck, no reason given of course.

[loanrangie]

I prefer the light of the original (rhs) to the LED and the spread is better on low.

[Graedeb]

Hi my disco today put another wing mirror switch on ,still the mirrors only work one way will go down but not up exchanged switch was a unit from wreckers ,tried cleaning switch itself the cir board looked about the same condition as my original one expected weak points in the ribbon on the back of the board ,any ideas got me stumped , all went belly up when we put clearview mirrors on open the drivers door the mirror moves itself ,tried original mirrors the same ,thought I had fold back mirrors tried switch in middle pos and pressed down ,since then mirrors will go down but push button up they still go down weird I know 156023

[INter674]

Not my Disco, but I notice the Nov Dec 2019 issue of PAt Callinan's 4x4 Adventures has the temerity to show a D4 in a workshop and on the back of a tilt truck, no reason given of course.

Could have been mine😆

[Tombie]

I prefer the light of the original (rhs) to the LED and the spread is better on low.

Which bulb was replaced?

If it’s the infill then the low is factory...

[jwb]

Which bulb was replaced?

If it’s the infill then the low is factory...

the left is the new LED in the in fill high beam lamp.

[Tombie]

the left is the new LED in the in fill high beam lamp.

That’s what I thought... so the comment above on low beam being different is not applicable.

[loanrangie]

That’s what I thought... so the comment above on low beam being different is not applicable.

It is because in the first pic the light on the right looks cleaner and has a better low down spread than the LED fitted to the left, maybe that's high beam with just the one LED fitted ?

[loanrangie]

Went to a Ford dealer and bought a TDV6 oil pump for $144 :)

[Tombie]

It is because in the first pic the light on the right looks cleaner and has a better low down spread than the LED fitted to the left, maybe that's high beam with just the one LED fitted ?

Apparently not. The low beam shot is all original lighting in the main housing.

The High beam fill in is the only one running an LED on one side.

Looking at it more I’d suggest it’s the light pollution from nearby making it look different.

[jwb]

I'll try and get a shot with the same features on both sides - probably a country lane with no street lights.

Can't do it for a while as the car is in getting driver's door mechanism and air conditioning compressor both replaced - taking some time to get parts...

cheers

[loanrangie]

My precious (Gollum voice ).https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191206/337a1f43ac37b50bac57b59b5e819fd2.jpg

[jwb]

Got the D4 back from dealer this week. New driver's door mechanism and new air conditioning compressor.
Nice to have non-random cool air again and not lowering the window to reach in and open the door.

[Milton477]

Had a ceramic window film/tint applied to all windows including the windscreen. So cool inside now.

[DiscoJeffster]

Had a ceramic window film/tint applied to all windows including the windscreen. So cool inside now.

Last time I checked you cannot apply any tint to the windscreen? Do tell me more? Presume it’s not tint but clear and reflects heat?

[loanrangie]

Last time I checked you cannot apply any tint to the windscreen? Do tell me more? Presume it’s not tint but clear and reflects heat?Maybe it was just the top 100mm or so ?

[Milton477]

The whole windscreen was done with clear ceramic film. While not strictly legal, you can't see the film. The supplier did warn me of the legality.

[rocket rod]

After convincing my neighbour to buy a 2nd hand D4, he enrolled in a Eureka Driver Training Course here in Perth and proceeded to Wilbinga Beach. After traversing through the sand dunes we came to a playground with 3 hills to choose from and on his first time 4WDing he made it up not once, not twice but three times while everyone else floundered at the bottom.

Afterwards without prompting a number of participants were heard to say, "where can I get one of those?"

[DiscoJeffster]

After convincing my neighbour to buy a 2nd hand D4, he enrolled in a Eureka Driver Training Course here in Perth and proceeded to Wilbinga Beach. After traversing through the sand dunes we came to a playground with 3 hills to choose from and on his first time 4WDing he made it up not once, not twice but three times while everyone else floundered at the bottom.

Afterwards without prompting a number of participants were heard to say, "where can I get one of those?"

He clearly turned DSC off [emoji2] Not bad for a novice!

[rocket rod]

I was sitting in the back seat telling him what buttons to push and how hard to accelerate.

[scarry]

Afterwards without prompting a number of participants were heard to say, "where can I get one of those?"

It’s a real shame they didn’t run the model for a couple of years longer,everything was just about sorted with it,and it was light years ahead of the opposition.

Another cosmetic update and it could have run for a good few years.
In fact sales were the highest in its last year.

And look what they replaced it with😩

[DiscoJeffster]

Tested out the install of our new car fridge in the centre seat position. Works well. Shame I have three kids so it still means one has to go in the back in this config.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191208/94307b0b1d83086120cde7a3e99a784b.jpg

[loanrangie]

Tested out the install of our new car fridge in the centre seat position. Works well. Shame I have three kids so it still means one has to go in the back in this config.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191208/94307b0b1d83086120cde7a3e99a784b.jpg

Thats a good fit, what a shame 1 kid has to stay home :) What size is the fridge,
is the seat removed or just pushed down ?

[DiscoJeffster]

Thats a good fit, what a shame 1 kid has to stay home :) What size is the fridge,
is the seat removed or just pushed down ?

It’s the BCF 40 (37L usable), currently on sale for $499. Uses the Secops compressor like the Waeco. Draws very little which was the idea. It’s to supplement our 80L fridge/freezer in the camper trailer.

[DieselLSE]

Tested out the install of our new car fridge in the centre seat position. Works well. Shame I have three kids so it still means one has to go in the back in this config.

You could always add the Child Eject Upgrade kit.

[DiscoJeffster]

You could always add the Child Eject Upgrade kit.

[emoji23]

[John_D4]

Tested out the install of our new car fridge in the centre seat position. Works well. Shame I have three kids so it still means one has to go in the back in this config.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191208/94307b0b1d83086120cde7a3e99a784b.jpg

How have you secured it, or does it just sit there?

[DiscoJeffster]

How have you secured it, or does it just sit there?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191209/0b64dbd90fca4f27b881acaa878c2b77.jpg

M10 eye bolts as per the photo. They fit into the existing m10 seat bolts. So simple and awesome. Four straps to hold it in place. Ran power from my main battery wire that powers my accessories. Next year I’ll rewire it all when I switch to a Traxide kit but for now I have a power run that powers my brake controller, UHF and now fridge. Fridge is 4.5amps at turbo cool (start up) and around 1-2amps once cooled down.

[RANDLOVER]

NANROBOT D4+ Electric Scooter

The other D4 Electric scooter D4+ for Adults 10" Tires -2000W-52V 23A | - NANROBOT (https://www.nanrobot.com/products/d4-2-0-10-2000w-52v-18-23ah)

[BradC]

NANROBOT D4+ Electric Scooter

The other D4 Electric scooter D4+ for Adults 10" Tires -2000W-52V 23A | - NANROBOT (https://www.nanrobot.com/products/d4-2-0-10-2000w-52v-18-23ah)



Warning:
Do not charge unattended!
Do not charge over 12h!

"So we charge you over a grand for it, but we know it has a crap charger and dicey cheap imported lithium battery and therefore may set fire to your house, so don't say we didn't warn you."

Other than that it looks great.

[BradC]

Rolled into Northcliffe and put 82.5L in the tank. That was close.

[dirvine]

Rolled into Northcliffe and put 82.5L in the tank. That was close.

I thought you could not get the last 5 litres out of a D4. Are you sure the pump was accurate?

[John_D4]

Took the D4 in for a 160000 service and a couple of other things. Not looking forward to tomorrow’s bill

[coopers1969]

Rolled into Northcliffe and put 82.5L in the tank. That was close.

[emoji23]

[Macboy]

- Did the turbo drain replacement, oh the humanity! A royal pain given the tight access, but rewarding to get it done.

- Key fob was delaminating, so just got a new cover. Two minute job.

Received the parts from Advanced Factors in just four days, listed below. Great that they put together a kit of parts for the turbo pipe.

LR078922Kit - Key Fob Cover £9.65
KIT709 3.0 Turbo Feed Pipe Kit £78.05

[Tombie]

Got 138,000km on the factory alternator.

Tuesday it finally cried enough. New unit sourced (Denso) and the install will take place tonight.

[BradC]

I thought you could not get the last 5 litres out of a D4. Are you sure the pump was accurate?

I've got a D3 and thats the second time I've put more than 82 litres in (I've put 80 Litres in a number of times). The first was my local servo and I checked the calibration date on the pump when I did it. It was recent. Can't vouch for the one in Northcliffe but I can guarantee I drove in (very slowly) on fumes.

I always thought the 5 litres thing was an old wives tale frankly. Look at the way the tank is built and you should be able to run it down to the swirl pot. What would be the point of designing a tank where you couldn't access the last 5% of the fuel?

I must admit that was one of the few times I suffered "range anxiety" due to poor planning on my part. 25 odd years ago in the old 2.4 D1 I ran out of fuel at 2am on the way to the Murchison roadhouse and had to walk 16k's there in the morning to get a jerry and a lift back to the car. I still remember the old bushies drawl "Its a diesel, yer gonna have to bleed it son". He was astonished when it fired up after a bit of cranking.