my perentie turbo build

[asmit]

Here is information about the turbo conversion on my perentie, I spent a lot of time researching, so I'd like to contribute with something back that might help others.
At the end of the day, doing this bit by bit was very time consuming and sometimes a little challenging for me. (a DIY land rover pretend mechanic with no actual training in this sort of thing.)

The teams of engineers at isuzu did everything for a reason, be it cost or otherwise, each minor difference between the 4BD1 and 4BD1T begs the question why did they do it differently like that?
Am I pushing this motor too hard now? Will this cause me more grief later on? Have I put enough thought into my custom parts to achieve reliability? I'm not a mechanical engineer!

I chose to do this all myself instead of buying a turbo kit from KLR because I wanted a project. I also read and heard good things about the HE221W matched to this motor.
If you do not have 4 months of partial weekends and week nights, I suggest you buy the KLR kit and save the extra time and effort. You also have comfort in knowing they supply a genuine garret turbo. I'm taking a gamble with this holset from china.

Hopefully this post helps you get an idea about the work involved!

Below the photos is a mostly comprehensive parts/cost list.

155657

original heater and vacuum pipes survive with minor "adjusting"
easy 1 pice hose from donald to turbo
air cleaner was turned around, I blanked the old intake and drilled out the old drain to be the new intake.
exhaust is the next job... (2.5")
egt pre turbo (in the side of the T3 manifold flange) because I haven't done that before, also this gives me a reading to hopefully not let things get out of hand...


155658


I join the rocker breather to the crankcase breather.
I also swapped to the twin filter setup, that was an episode of it's own, I don't think it was necessary, but it will make oil changes a lot easier. If you don't do that you should take more care to route the crossover pipe away from the large upside-down filter. (or fit a front mount inter cooler)
I chose no inter cooler because I am trying to keep it simple.


155660


Turbo is a holset he221w with 5.5cm exhaust housing and T25 flange.
oem 4BD1T exhaust manifold
I used an adapter from MTQ to go T3 to T25.
3" compressor intake, v-band outlet elbow to 2.5" hose compressor outlet.
I had to take the compressor and exhaust housings off and remove the dowels to "clock" the core in the housings.
from this angle you can see the vacuum hard pipe underneath the brackets for heater pipes.


155662



I fabricated the crossover pipe from aluminum, I used ally because I don't have to worry about rust (yay)
I welded brackets to the air cleaner mount and using 2.5" exhaust clamps to hold the pipe to it.
There is a ~10mm gap between the turbo outlet and the crossover pipe where I fit a silicon joiner to allow for any movement.


155661

My overly complex oil drain.
I wanted what I think is a "factory" solution, I have rubber hose and clamps on my other landy and it leaks.
Holset specify a minimum ID for the oil drain to be 14mm, the smallest performance hose I found suitable is AN-12 which is rather large on the outside.
Isuzu use an all steel pipe with a corrugated section for a small amount of flex. I couldn't find that type of tube to make one.
This is somewhat similar to a 200tdi oil drain in the flex and types of fittings used.
each end fitting made custom.


155659

crankcase breather similar to KLR setup, it's a very smart re-use of the original parts.
I hope KLR does not disapprove of me posting this, but I just had a look at my friends perentie with the kit fitted and I like it, imitation is the greatest form of flattery remember!



Here it is, the money I spent on this "budget" conversion.
I probably missed a few small things, the egt gauge kit I chose is VDO from ebay.



qty
price (inc)
total (inc)
part
supplier




1913.637
total



2
16.24
32.48
AN-4 to M10x1.25
https://www.motorsportaccessories.com.au/


2
41.78
83.56
AN-4 hose end 90 deg SS



1
20.04
20.04
AN-4 Teflon SS braided hose



1
12.7
12.7
copper washers M10 pack 5



2
27.81
55.62
AN-12 weld on male SS



2
38.38
76.76
AN-12 hose end 45 deg alloy



1
46.43
46.43
AN-12 rubber SS braided hose



1
160.6
160.6
T3 to T25 adapter
https://www.mtqes.com.au/


4
1.177
4.708
nut manifold m8x1.25



4
1.782
7.128
stud M8x1.25x25



1
341
341
exhaust manifold 8943662470
https://www.donkyattqld.com.au/


4
8.591
34.364
gasket exhaust manifold



2
4.62
9.24
head to manifold stud m8x40



1
682
682
HOLSET HE221W 3782376
XHC turbo ebay


1
154
154
post



1
4
4
t3 gasket
ebay


1
19.998
19.998
tube round 1.6wall x 19.05 OD 304 SS
stirlingsps.com (http://stirlingsps.com)


1
5.28
5.28
1/2" x 1/2" F&F steel elbow
powellindustrial.com.au (http://powellindustrial.com.au)


1
25.267
25.267
hose rubber 25mm ortac



2
13.2
26.4
hosetail male 1" x 1"BSPT



1
13.959
13.959
elbow M&F 1" BSPT



1
5.423
5.423
hosetail 90 deg brass 5/16 barb to 1/8bspt



1
8.085
8.085
hose rubber 5/16 ID
ifsqld.com.au (http://ifsqld.com.au)


1
53
53
hose silicone 90 deg 76mm ID x 250mm long leg
Silicone Hose CAPA - 3" 90 Degree w/ Long (250mm) Legs - Silicon 76mm | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162876569765?ul_noapp=true)


1
17.25
17.25
post



2
5
10
2x 2.5" exhaust clamps
exhasut shop


1
4.345
4.345
gasket manifold intake 8970358831
isuzu

[rar110]

I’m looking forward to hearing how the HE221 goes. I was looking a using that turbo with a T25 Isuzu high mount manifold.

[asmit]

I’m looking forward to hearing how the HE221 goes. I was looking a using that turbo with a T25 Isuzu high mount manifold.

I didn't know there is such a manifold, what's the part number for that one?

[rar110]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191116/092255f8c96e8e08005d1cf8ec9c24d4.jpg

They are from a later 4B motor. Here’s a pic of it installed on my other 110 with a Garrett GT28 turbo.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191116/f95aa6fc30ed0734301e1d23e921e0bb.jpg

[asmit]

So I'm finally finished the exhaust and drove the truck to work today.

156120

It's going really well, I haven't adjusted the fueling yet, just tyring to make sure everything is within reasonable limits.

I took it for a run on the highway and I'm getting consistent ~370c pre turbo temp. (would like opinions about this longevity affects of this temperature)
8-12 psi at speedo indicated 90kmph (1.15 high range gear) approx 2300rpm by my calculations.
Seeing up to 16-18psi on full throttle acceleration.

[rar110]

You need to try it under load to get a better idea, eg up a long hill or even better towing up a hill.

[asmit]

Did a trip down NSW no troubles, loving it actually.
I've turned fuel up maybe 1/2 turn over stock.
I went a bit further than this, (2/3) and had a max sustained egt of around 600c up a long hill near jindabyne nsw, so about 1000m elevation.
Now back about to about 1/2 turn over stock I'm getting a max sustained of around 550c up long hills.
It's running lean, I don't get any smoke unless I'm under load at less than 1k rpm.
I think this setup is similar to the KLR in terms of the way it drives.
It's driving like a modern car with no lag at all :)
Did I mention I love it? :)

[Mono]

Did a trip down NSW no troubles, loving it actually.
I've turned fuel up maybe 1/2 turn over stock.
I went a bit further than this, (2/3) and had a max sustained egt of around 600c up a long hill near jindabyne nsw, so about 1000m elevation.
Now back about to about 1/2 turn over stock I'm getting a max sustained of around 550c up long hills.
It's running lean, I don't get any smoke unless I'm under load at less than 1k rpm.
I think this setup is similar to the KLR in terms of the way it drives.
It's driving like a modern car with no lag at all :)
Did I mention I love it? :)
Hi have just finished 130 turbo used holster Hx30w .so far 12lb@400 deg with 21/2 exhaust . Now starting to think about fuel after clutch, loving it too

[Canvas Hat]

It's such a neat looking job. Well done!!
One question: where does the turbo oil supply come from?

Cheers

[McBrain283]

Great post, thanks.

I'm just starting my turbo conversion and your pics and explanation really help. Especially the parts list!

[asmit]

It's such a neat looking job. Well done!!

Thanks! :-)



One question: where does the turbo oil supply come from?


I used a threaded fitting on the oil filter housing.

[Bearman]

Thanks! :-)



I used a threaded fitting on the oil filter housing.

Whereabouts on the filter housing did you tap into. Reason I ask is you need to have it on the side where the oil comes back from the oil cooler AFTER being filtered.

[asmit]

Whereabouts on the filter housing did you tap into. Reason I ask is you need to have it on the side where the oil comes back from the oil cooler AFTER being filtered.

hole at the base of the pipe

158553

Note that this is the twin oil filter housing part from a 4bd1t.

[McBrain283]

Asmit

Do you have 3" dump pipe going to a 2.5" exhaust?

I'm wondering whether to persevere trying to fit a 3" exhaust or go to 2.5" and make it easier to route.

Are you still happy with a 2.5" exhaust or would you go 3" if you were to do it again?

[Phil B]

Asmit

Do you have 3" dump pipe going to a 2.5" exhaust?

I'm wondering whether to persevere trying to fit a 3" exhaust or go to 2.5" and make it easier to route.

Are you still happy with a 2.5" exhaust or would you go 3" if you were to do it again?

3" is better for EGT's and sounds great but is hard to find space for, is more expensive.
2 1/2 " is just as good power wise (IMO) but can be routed in the same place as standard.

Your call

[asmit]

3" is better for EGT's and sounds great but is hard to find space for, is more expensive.
2 1/2 " is just as good power wise (IMO) but can be routed in the same place as standard.
Your call

You can do 3" or 2.5" through the wheel arch, depending on your tyre size and how much you care about the tyre scrubbing against it.
My stock exhaust scrubbed on 255/85's. My 2.5" will not because I made it. The 3" on my county does not scrub, running 235/85's.

This exhaust is 2.5" all the way.

My county has a 2.5" dump (180 deg mandrel bend from the turbo) into 3" system.

IMO the 2.5" sounds better, but it's also a different (and smaller) turbo.

Allegedly 2.5" is "too much" backpressure and 3" is "too little" and 2.75" is just right.

I will stick to 2.5" in the future.

158561

[McBrain283]

Thanks for that, and the picture.

I originally planned for a 3" and to route it between the chassis rails to make room for another sill tank on the passenger side. The more I get into it, the more I'm having to compromise:



It's going to be a lot easier and cheaper to go 2.5" through the wheel arch and down the side where my existing 2" NA exhaust is (can always put my water tank somewhere else)
I initially thought I could mount the exhaust manifold upside down which gave better clearance for the compressor sprial and to route the inlet pipe under the air cleaner. But now I think I will just go over the top of the rocker cover and sort it out later.


158573

158575

[asmit]

I originally planned for a 3" and to route it between the chassis rails to make room for another sill tank on the passenger side. The more I get into it, the more I'm having to compromise:



It's going to be a lot easier and cheaper to go 2.5" through the wheel arch and down the side where my existing 2" NA exhaust is (can always put my water tank somewhere else)
I initially thought I could mount the exhaust manifold upside down which gave better clearance for the compressor sprial and to route the inlet pipe under the air cleaner. But now I think I will just go over the top of the rocker cover and sort it out later.



This is a RFSV with a passanger side fuel 50L tank, no problem.

158585

I have seen someone with a hx30 route the outlet like that with teh manifold right way up, (I did it the He221w). I had a go with a hx30 but I could not get clearance bewteen the elbow and the exhaust manifold.
Maybe someone who has done this could share a photo of what they cut out of the exhaust manifold?
You could space out the T3 flange and use that spacer to add an EGT gauge too.

My he221w is spaced off the T3 flange with t2 adapter.

158584

[McBrain283]

This is a RFSV with a passanger side fuel 50L tank, no problem.

158585



Hey, that looks good. I will check on my vehicle. I have a 64l LRA fuel tank on the drivers side but current constraint for long trips is water. I'd still feel a bit uncomfortable with the exhaust more exposed on the side, but I've never dinged my current one.




I have seen someone with a hx30 route the outlet like that with teh manifold right way up, (I did it the He221w). I had a go with a hx30 but I could not get clearance bewteen the elbow and the exhaust manifold.
Maybe someone who has done this could share a photo of what they cut out of the exhaust manifold?
You could space out the T3 flange and use that spacer to add an EGT gauge too.

My he221w is spaced off the T3 flange with t2 adapter.

158584

Yeah, I considered a spacer. Was going to make something up, would only probably need about 5 - 10mm to get clearance I like the idea of having the probe there too. I think I'll mock-i up with a block of wood and see what fits best.

[McBrain283]

I tried spacing the turbo from the manifold T3 flange last night. A 5mm spacer is sufficient to get the compressor housing rotated enough. So I will make up a spacer out of plate.

I can't get enough clearance under the bonnet to have the pipe go over the rocker cover so the above is my only solution now.

[asmit]

I tried spacing the turbo from the manifold T3 flange last night. A 5mm spacer is sufficient to get the compressor housing rotated enough. So I will make up a spacer out of plate.

I can't get enough clearance under the bonnet to have the pipe go over the rocker cover so the above is my only solution now.

yes, sounds about right, you could cut the vband flange off the compressor outlet and clamp on silicon hose, but you will still need a bit of squashed 2" tube to go over the rocker cover (like the KLR crossover pipe setup).

[Mono]

60x 40 work well but you have move one bonnet rib .mine has some rust still finishing

[INter674]

yes, sounds about right, you could cut the vband flange off the compressor outlet and clamp on silicon hose, but you will still need a bit of squashed 2" tube to go over the rocker cover (like the KLR crossover pipe setup).

Or buy a proper fitting off f bay.. 130 bucks..not from Cummins Aus tho as they wanted 260 bucks plus freight...for 1x 90 deg bend ex Melb!!

Pn 3918686..straights are also out there..freight is about 2 weeks atm.

Saves butchering the outlet...same for exhaust..do a search for the v band fitting. Eg benzforce
BF-CPL-HEXHA

[INter674]

Thanks! :-)



I used a threaded fitting on the oil filter housing.

Best come from the air pump oil supply using an AN4 tee ie

Female Fitting Swivel On Run Tee AN4 (Black) 145-04BLK

Plus braided AN4 line...available from most speed shops.

[asmit]

Best come from the air pump oil supply using an AN4 tee ie

Female Fitting Swivel On Run Tee AN4 (Black) 145-04BLK

Plus braided AN4 line...available from most speed shops.

I forgot to mention in my original post, I took the oil feed from the oil filter housing mostly because that's where the turbo oil feed is on the factory turbo motors.

Seems like a lot of people Tee off the vacuum pump, I'm sure it works fine, only difference is that oil has been through the oil cooler and might take half a second longer upon startup (debatable).
If anyone knows an engineer whom worked at isuzu in the 1980's I would love to know exactly why the turbo is plumbed in before the oil cooler. Maybe it was just easy?

I noticed KLR tap into the oil filter housing too, and run an AN-4 braided teflon line with steel fittings just like I did.


Saves butchering the outlet...same for exhaust..do a search for the v band fitting. Eg benzforce
BF-CPL-HEXHA

Thanks for sharing those part numbers, I had a lot of trouble trying to find exhaust flanges for these turbos.
Welding pipe straight to the flange still gains a bit of room between the back of the alternator though.

[INter674]

Might save a bit of room welding but makes installation less neat and flexible in ordering the exhaust to the best posi. The v band only adds a few mm if installed correctly using a doughnut ie 180 degree 3" mandrel bend plus other bends etc as required to get to the normal route.

Re the oil feed..a long line would also build in a delay..perhaps. We tested the feed from the air pump oil line and the oil came out instantaneously as the engine started. 90psi prolly means it gets anywhere real fast.!! So not sure why KLR etc take it off the filter and we like the post oil cooler approach given the turbo heat issues. We've seen 300 deg plus EGTs at 18psi or thereabouts atm on test runs.

Btw on FFRs the 24v gen can be rotated 180 degrees to place the connector to the bottom next to the sump thereby relocating the cable well away from the exhaust. It's a tight fit but it works☺

[McBrain283]

I'm just sorting out the oil return.

I had planned to thread a fitting into the top of that plate with 2 bolts at the base of the block. But looking at it now, it would be neater and easier to t-into the oil return line for the vacuum pump.

Any reason I can't do this?

The angle of the oil return hose appears to be steep enough for the oil to drain, but perhaps there's not enough flow when the vac pump oil joins?

[asmit]

I'm just sorting out the oil return.

I had planned to thread a fitting into the top of that plate with 2 bolts at the base of the block. But looking at it now, it would be neater and easier to t-into the oil return line for the vacuum pump.

Any reason I can't do this?

The angle of the oil return hose appears to be steep enough for the oil to drain, but perhaps there's not enough flow when the vac pump oil joins?

I would be checking documentation for the turbo you have.
You can probably find a specification for the oil drain tube diameter, and or flow rate...

[McBrain283]

Yes, I'm happy with the drain tube diameter. Was more concerned about what happens where it connects to the block. Perhaps the flow rate at that point is not sufficient when combined with the flow from the vac pump drain?

[INter674]

I would go with the oil pump cover plate and make the connection at least 10mm in diameter. This will ensure there is no back up of oil.

I drilled a 12mm hole in the cover plate just above the gear outer where there is a natural drain space and made a flanged pipe fitting..one side of which fixes to the factory bolt..the other I threaded a stud into the plate. Fitted a gasket and all's good. The drain hose runs nearly straight down from turbo to the oil pump plate with a 12mm heat proof hose.

I think the dip stick is too restricted for two discharges..there's a lot of pressure in the system hence lots of oil flow to deal with.

[asmit]

Yes, I'm happy with the drain tube diameter. Was more concerned about what happens where it connects to the block. Perhaps the flow rate at that point is not sufficient when combined with the flow from the vac pump drain?

When the drain tube connects to the block, the galley in the block is subject to the same size/flow constraints as your drain tube.
I would not use the vac pump drain.
There should be some photos on here somewhere of people using the oil pump cover for a drain.
Have you considered other possibilities like the push rod cover, or straight into the sump?
Do you have the cover plate on your block where the factory turbo motors drain into? (that's what I used)
checkout this thread 4BD1T - set for oil drain etc (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/44549-4bd1t-set-oil-drain-etc.html)


I think the dip stick is too restricted for two discharges..there's a lot of pressure in the system hence lots of oil flow to deal with.

I think McBrain was referring to the vac pump oil drain on the NA block which goes straight into the block, not via the dipstick tube.

[INter674]

Interesting as the one I'm working on has the vac pump drain into the dip stick..I think it a later version which also has a different oil pump/cover arrangement to some..so I was told.

Mmm🙄

[asmit]

Interesting as the one I'm working on has the vac pump drain into the dip stick..I think it a later version which also has a different oil pump/cover arrangement to some..so I was told.

Mmm🙄

Is that motor in a 4x4 perentie?
On the 6x6 motor I have the vac pump drains into the dipstick tube... but in my 4x4 it has a banjo bolt into the block...

[INter674]

Yes 4x4 Perentie

[asmit]

Yes 4x4 Perentie

Ah, is that a FFR or SRV-SF perentie with the 24V alternator?

[INter674]

FFR with 24v gen/power station which has been rotated 180 degs to move output cable to underneath ie away from dump pipe.

[INter674]

159151

Work in progress

[asmit]

Work in progress

Looks great nice work!

[Bearman]

Now that is what you call a "dump pipe"

[INter674]

159182

Ooops..pic went sideways.

Td5 rad plus 2A i/cooler in front with shaped original shroud and booty fabbed cap on top aka a recycled fluoro light cover..with GU Patrol fan unit with adjusted mounting holes and 10mm trimmed blades.

Works really well😚

Sometimes I surprise myself!!!

[INter674]

159186

Dang..another sidewinder. Anyhow you get the idea..2A ic with reversed bonnet support struts plus few washers on lower end.

[asmit]

Turbo is a holset he221w with 5.5cm exhaust housing and T25 flange.



Just for reference this turbo HOLSET HE221W part number 3782376 has a 17.5psi wastegate out of the box.

[rar110]

When the drain tube connects to the block, the galley in the block is subject to the same size/flow constraints as your drain tube.
I would not use the vac pump drain.
There should be some photos on here somewhere of people using the oil pump cover for a drain.
Have you considered other possibilities like the push rod cover, or straight into the sump?
Do you have the cover plate on your block where the factory turbo motors drain into? (that's what I used)
checkout this thread 4BD1T - set for oil drain etc (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/44549-4bd1t-set-oil-drain-etc.html)



I think McBrain was referring to the vac pump oil drain on the NA block which goes straight into the block, not via the dipstick tube.

I ended up draining the oil from the turbo to the horizontal oil pump cover plate. However, the factory set up drains oil to a vertical diamond shaped plate a little lower on the side of the block.

[INter674]

Dump pipe done..billy norkle next☺159390

[Bearman]

Dump pipe done..billy norkle next☺159390

That's a neat job. Does it go under the starter and in between the chassis rails.

[INter674]

Goes out throught the inner guard then runs under the sill..where the existing one was. Will hang a bit low and prolly get hit one day..but there's really nowhere else to put it unless the body mounts are scalloped out...prolly not a good idea🙄

[INter674]

That's a neat job. Does it go under the starter and in between the chassis rails.

Looked at that but would hang quite low under the starter and not much room between the chassis and TC etc..so went out the side under the sill..will look a bit cheesy until it dulls off or gets painted!

[Bearman]

Looked at that but would hang quite low under the starter and not much room between the chassis and TC etc..so went out the side under the sill..will look a bit cheesy until it dulls off or gets painted!

Personally I like what you have done. If you go under the starter like some have done it adds extra heat to the bottom of the starter and the bell housing. Going out the original path is the best idea. Just don't put big offset tyres/rims on it and you shouldn't have a problem.

[INter674]

Personally I like what you have done. If you go under the starter like some have done it adds extra heat to the bottom of the starter and the bell housing. Going out the original path is the best idea. Just don't put big offset tyres/rims on it and you shouldn't have a problem.

Yeah..big tyres might be a challenge..35s are off the menu now..33s will be ok. Big tyres/big offset loses lock real fast anyway..and there's not a lot of steering lock to begin with😐

[asmit]

Yeah..big tyres might be a challenge..35s are off the menu now..33s will be ok. Big tyres/big offset loses lock real fast anyway..and there's not a lot of steering lock to begin with😐

I find 0 offset rims work well with 255/85's.
Under full compression the rear wheels scrape the wheelarch eyebrows/flares a little.
One of my mates is running 255/85's on the standard ROH +33 rims without issues.
Anything in the 0-33 range for a 255 tyre will be perfect in my opinion!

[INter674]

I find 0 offset rims work well with 255/85's.
Under full compression the rear wheels scrape the wheelarch eyebrows/flares a little.
One of my mates is running 255/85's on the standard ROH +33 rims without issues.
Anything in the 0-33 range for a 255 tyre will be perfect in my opinion!

Great advice..thanks☺

[INter674]

More pics fyi

159948159949159950

[asmit]

More pics fyi

Nice snorkel, is it custom made or can we buy one too? [biggrin]

[McBrain283]

I ended up draining the oil from the turbo to the horizontal oil pump cover plate. However, the factory set up drains oil to a vertical diamond shaped plate a little lower on the side of the block.

Yes that's what I'm going to do. I've been messing about trying to get brass barbs of sufficient diamiter and to fit into a tapped hole in this cover. Now I think I will just weld some ~16mm ID steel tube to the center of that plat at a 45deg angle to join up with the braided drain hose.

[McBrain283]

Dump pipe done..billy norkle next☺159390

Any chance you can post a photo of how you are going around the corner into the wheel arch? I am doing the same, see pic below (got to get it welded). I'm thinking to go around the corner and then increase from 2.5" to 3" as it goes through the mudflap.

159954159955159956

[McBrain283]

some more pics of my mock-up in case it helps others.

I'm actually done, just waiting to get someone to TIG the dump pipe the I can stop driving around with a NA Isuzu.

159958159959159960159961

[INter674]

Any chance you can post a photo of how you are going around the corner into the wheel arch? I am doing the same, see pic below (got to get it welded). I'm thinking to go around the corner and then increase from 2.5" to 3" as it goes through the mudflap.

159954159955159956

Argh..car not here atm..owner is test driving it..and loving it☺

I'll see if he can send me some shots but basically we followed the std exhaust route making sure it tucked into the wheel arch and with a flange joint just at the inner guard exit point into the wheel arch....flexible joint above it

[INter674]

Nice snorkel, is it custom made or can we buy one too? [biggrin]

Custom..and one off unfortunately.

[asmit]

Yes that's what I'm going to do. I've been messing about trying to get brass barbs of sufficient diamiter and to fit into a tapped hole in this cover. Now I think I will just weld some ~16mm ID steel tube to the center of that plat at a 45deg angle to join up with the braided drain hose.

That's a good idea but at 45deg won't you have trouble with clearing the starter motor solenoid?

159962

[McBrain283]

That's a good idea but at 45deg won't you have trouble with clearing the starter motor solenoid?

159962

No, because I'm tapping in to the flat plate with the 2 bolts.

[Zcoota]

Loving this thread and the workmanship. I have to admit I'm about to pull the trigger on a KLR kit. Has anyone needed to upgrade the radiator or is the stocky up to the job?

[Phil B]

The standard radiator is very good provided it is clean
You won’t need to upgrade it with a KLR kit
Mine kit is 2 yrs old with no issues
Check/ replace the thermostat if necessary though.

[asmit]

Loving this thread and the workmanship. I have to admit I'm about to pull the trigger on a KLR kit. Has anyone needed to upgrade the radiator or is the stocky up to the job?
I would say it really depends on how you tune it. (Fuel screw). A diesel will run cooler when it runs leaner.

There's no reason to change the radiator unless you have problems.

[INter674]

Loving this thread and the workmanship. I have to admit I'm about to pull the trigger on a KLR kit. Has anyone needed to upgrade the radiator or is the stocky up to the job?

Mmm...KLR? Son's mate went down the DIY Holset route..some pics have been posted....more work yes but a better outcome re power etc and way cheaper too . Son's mate works with a guy with a Perentie and his KLR turbo kit has not provided as good an outcome in terms of power and tractability.

Just sayin☺

[asmit]

Mmm...KLR? Son's mate went down the DIY Holset route..some pics have been posted....more work yes but a better outcome re power etc and way cheaper too . Son's mate works with a guy with a Perentie and his KLR turbo kit has not provided as good an outcome in terms of power and tractability.

Just sayin☺
Can you provide any data points to back up that statment?

[INter674]

For about the same money you can fit a TD5 rad and intercooler plus HX30/35 giving 20psi plus...and EGTs of less than 400 no matter how hard you push it. Max eeve seen is 350 on a long steep hill climb.

Boost is available off idle with no perceptable lag whereas the Garrett kit has some lag..so we believe...and EGTs exceed 550 when pushed...so we believe. No bonnet mods needed but rad mounts need to be removed as well as some fabrication etc..but nothing that can't be achieved DIY and/or bought in parts/fabrication.

Our main reason tho was to save money and facilitate a better installation and better power/EGT outcomes.

But naturally the KLR kit is skewed conservatively and this is fine if you are time poor and money rich☺

[asmit]

For about the same money you can fit a TD5 rad and intercooler plus HX30/35 giving 20psi plus...and EGTs of less than 400 no matter how hard you push it. Max eeve seen is 350 on a long steep hill climb.

Boost is available off idle with no perceptable lag whereas the Garrett kit has some lag..so we believe...and EGTs exceed 550 when pushed...so we believe. No bonnet mods needed but rad mounts need to be removed as well as some fabrication etc..but nothing that can't be achieved DIY and/or bought in parts/fabrication.

Our main reason tho was to save money and facilitate a better installation and better power/EGT outcomes.

But naturally the KLR kit is skewed conservatively and this is fine if you are time poor and money rich☺

That's great you are happy with your setups.

I don't want this thread to turn into an argument, but i cannot fathom how the gt22 could possibly be more laggy than a hx30 or hx35. That really seems counter intuitive to me.

Maybe you can create a thread with your turbo builds inter?

[INter674]

That's great you are happy with your setups.

I don't want this thread to turn into an argument, but i cannot fathom how the gt22 could possibly be more laggy than a hx30 or hx35. That really seems counter intuitive to me.

Maybe you can create a thread with your turbo builds inter?

Fair call re lag..we hope to get more info from an owner/workmate of a KLR kit once the virus abates...and do a direct side by side comparison.

Re a thread...we work on Patrols in the main..the Perentie was a one off but based on a lot of research re using Holset v Gt, intercooling, optimum boost levels, expected EGTs etc..and certainly has had the most satisfying outcome☺

[Zcoota]

Mmm...KLR? Son's mate went down the DIY Holset route..some pics have been posted....more work yes but a better outcome re power etc and way cheaper too . Son's mate works with a guy with a Perentie and his KLR turbo kit has not provided as good an outcome in terms of power and tractability.

Just sayin☺

I guess how much is way cheaper ? How much did he save and how experienced is your son's mate with diesels.

So far from what I can see I'm looking at about a grand premium to buy the KLR kit but for that get a kit in a box and minimise my time off the road and can tap into their experience for a bit of support. I'm confident with petrol engines but turbo diesels are a whole new game for me and I don't really want to lunch the motor. Equally that's a grand of overtime I'll have to work up.....

[asmit]

I guess how much is way cheaper ? How much did he save and how experienced is your son's mate with diesels.

So far from what I can see I'm looking at about a grand premium to buy the KLR kit but for that get a kit in a box and minimise my time off the road and can tap into their experience for a bit of support. I'm confident with petrol engines but turbo diesels are a whole new game for me and I don't really want to lunch the motor. Equally that's a grand of overtime I'll have to work up.....

I don't see how it could be much cheaper than my write up at the beginning of this thread.
The only variables are how much stuff you make yourself, how much you buy off the shelf and if you can find used exhaust manifolds or other parts cheaper than new.
No one here can tell you if it's worth putting the OT in at work or putting the OT in your afternoons fitting everything together! :-)

[INter674]

I don't see how it could be much cheaper than my write up at the beginning of this thread.
The only variables are how much stuff you make yourself, how much you buy off the shelf and if you can find used exhaust manifolds or other parts cheaper than new.
No one here can tell you if it's worth putting the OT in at work or putting the OT in your afternoons fitting everything together! :-)

Up to you how much time you put into it...and of course personal skills come into play. Son's mate has NO skills at all for this project...he paid for everything. Turbo price for a start was cheaper and for stuff we could not do in house we contacted local tradies for cash jobs☺

Matie kept track of all costs and reckons he saved a grand and much more on the combined costs of buying a kit snorkle and turbo.

But yes he has time on his hands atm...thanks to Covid. If you don't or can't then just go the KLR..it will do the job as others have said.

[Vern]

I guess how much is way cheaper ? How much did he save and how experienced is your son's mate with diesels.

So far from what I can see I'm looking at about a grand premium to buy the KLR kit but for that get a kit in a box and minimise my time off the road and can tap into their experience for a bit of support. I'm confident with petrol engines but turbo diesels are a whole new game for me and I don't really want to lunch the motor. Equally that's a grand of overtime I'll have to work up.....I spent about $1350 doing my turbo, all parts brand new. Isuzu manifold amd td04hl-19t turbo, all that stuff bolts on, the same, if not easier than the klr kit. You still have to make a dump pipe same as klr kit, the only thing extra that i know of you have to do is make the oil drain, which is relatively easy.
Mine was run up on the dyno against a klr one, both similar tunes (mine was starving for fuel, kinked pipe) i made 6.6kw at the wheels more.

No knocking the klr kit, i think it all comes down the skill level for which way you want to go.

[asmit]

I spent about $1350 doing my turbo, all parts brand new. Isuzu manifold amd td04hl-19t turbo, all that stuff bolts on, the same, if not easier than the klr kit. You still have to make a dump pipe same as klr kit, the only thing extra that i know of you have to do is make the oil drain, which is relatively easy.

1350, nice going!

And an intake/crossover pipe.

[Vern]

1350, nice going!

And an intake/crossover pipe.I ended up fitting an intercooler as there was no way to do a crossover in a rangie without a bonnet scoop.