8 speed shift lock solenoid problems

[Mattblack59bus]

P176C-11 Transmission range selector lock control error – General electrical Failure – circuit short to ground

Background
The shift lock solenoid is a safety lock to prevent the transmission from selecting a drive mode without having the brake pedal applied. It will only lock in Park & Neutral and should never lock in Drive or Reverse.
In the event of a no power condition (ie; flat battery) the 6 speed transmission in the discovery 3 and 4 (as most cars do) have a “shift lock release” to release the shift lock solenoid which enables the gear lever to be moved to the Neutral position, as this lever is connected to the transmission via a physical mechanical cable, it will select Neutral without power.
Unfortunately in the 8 speed transmission there is no physical cable connecting the shift dial to the transmission, the only connection is “electronic data” via the vehicle’s CAN BUS network (with a local network connection to the transmission as a backup). In the event of a no power condition, turning the dial (if you could) wouldn’t do anything.

The Problem
What Land Rover did to overcome this issue was to add a mechanical cable that enables you to shift to Neutral without turning the dial, now this works well if you want to get towed, but what if you DO have power, a good battery, parked on the beach, engine running, tide coming in and the dial is locked in Park (or locked in drive with the engine off) due to a faulty shift lock solenoid. There is the real problem, you can’t select drive as there is no shift lock release (and you can’t start the car if the dial is in Drive even if you pull the Neutral lever).

Quick get me off the beach solution
(tools to keep in the car; T20 Torx driver, Philips Drive)
What we need to do is access the (TCS) transmission Control Switch, the rotary dial bit.
First we need to remove the cup holder and the spill tray below it using the Philips driver (or a small flat blade if that’s all you have).
Open up the centre console lid and start pulling up on the sides of the centre console where the cup holder is, the entire centre section surrounding the TCS should lift up and come free. It will slide backwards away from the dash.

155702


Now the Centre is loose, roll the entire assembly onto the passenger seat, taking care not to stretch the cable harness, I don’t recommend disconnecting the main harness as you will get a large number of faults and the dash cluster goes off (you have enough fault codes to deal with already).
Using the T20 Torx Driver undo the 4 screws holding on the plastic trim surrounding the TCS, also unto the 4 screws holding on the Mode selection/height/low range switch panel.
Two of the screws are hidden behind the Gray and Green connectors, if you cannot access these screws simply release the connector from its holder BUT don’t disconnect the connection itself.
Important Note;
The brass screw at the base of the TSC will raise and lower the rotary dial, it will be very easy to turn, the dial can be used (turned) in the fully lowered AND fully raised position, however do not turn this screw if the dial is not in Park, the dial will attempt to rotate to Park as it is lowered, if your shift lock solenoid is in the locked position (unpowered) and the dial is in anything but Park you will break something.
155703

After undoing the 8 screws roll the entire assembly back into its normal position. (Making sure that all electrical connections are still in place)
Carefully remove the plastic surround from the TCS, you can gently lift it up from the cup holder side, part of it will sit under the Mode selection/height/low range switch panel.

155704

Using the T20 Torx driver, remove the 4 screws holding the TCS into the console, you can now lift the TCS out of the console and lay it on its side.
Remove 3 of the 4 screws on the outside edge on the base of the TCS, do not undo the screws in the centre of the unit, they hold the motor and solenoid in place.
155708
You must do the following with the dial in the raised position, if you’re in Drive the dial will be raised, if you’re in Park raise the dial by turning the brass screw, and be gentle.
The last screw we will use to hold everything together, undo this screw so that the unit is held together but open enough so that you can place a screwdriver into the unit and release the shift lock.
Important Note;
The shift lock is plastic, be gentle. The circuit board doesn’t want a short circuit, be careful. I used a screwdriver but you could use something non conductive.
We don’t want to open the unit too far because the gear selection circuitry uses magnets and magnometer sensors, opening the unit separates the two, open too far and the chip won’t see the change in gear when we turn the dial, or may see an invalid selection.
155706
Fully opened view of the TCS (taken during the repair procedure, you don’t need to open the unit this far yet)
155707

What we need to do is gently release the shift lock with a screwdriver (or non conductive tool) with one hand and turn the dial with the other hand (if turning to drive or reverse you will still need your foot on the brake pedal (and a working brake light switch))
Once you have made your gear selection, we need to tighten the single screw holding the unit together and if driving some distance I would place the TCS back into its correct location.
An alternative would be to use an elastic band (hair tie, string, zip tie etc) and hold the shift lock open. If you do this you will get a second fault code stating a mechanical failure of the shift lock, and you can only select a drive mode whilst the brake pedal is pressed (working brake switch), turning the dial to drive without the brake pedal results in a flashing D or R on the dash and no drive.

The work around fix
This fix is good for fault finding an intermittent fault and for peace of mind, it involves creating a shift lock lever under the cup holder that will quickly release the shift lock if the solenoid fails, however I don’t recommend using this method for long term use (who wants to lift the cup holder for every gear change?). And remember if you have no power using this will not enable you to select Neutral, you will still need to use the red lever for that.
Perform the procedure above to remove the TCS, once the TCS is free, disconnect the TCS cable, you will need to raise the red locking lever/tab to remove the connector, again nothing needs to be forced so don’t break anything.
Take the TCS to a clean workbench or kitchen table, the TCS does contain static sensitive circuits so take care not to have any static build up (google that if you need to).
To open the unit fully we will need to remove the black plastic centre cap from the metal dial, the cap is held on with double sided tape, to do this we push a small flat blade screw driver between the edge of the plastic and the metal dial and lever slowly up, I also used a box cutter and pushed the blade into the small gap once it started to lift (be careful if you do), I managed to get this off without any issue but don’t worry if you damage the cap as aftermarket replacements are available in a range of colours.


Once the plastic cap is off we can remove the metal dial using a T20 Torx driver.
Turn the unit over and remove the 6 T20 Torx screws, 2 hold the plastic cover around the connector, the remaining 4 hold the unit together around the outside edge (don’t remove the 3 screws in the centre of the metal section, they hold the motor and solenoid in place)
Remove the plastic cover from around the connector first (taking care not to bend the connector pins), under this cover there are two cables one for the solenoid and one for the drive motor (to raise and lower the dial), disconnect both cables.
You should now be able to separate the TCS into two halves.
As the picture above

Next we’re going to drill a hole into the case and through the end of the plastic locking mechanism, I’m not going to give measurements but you will want the holes to line up and be roughly 3 mm, take your time (measure once and drill twice, or something like that).
155709

Take a long thin zip tie and loop it around a key ring and zip it up (this will be your ring pull), then thread the other end through the hole and connect a second zip tie to this, cut off the excess zip tie and the rest of the second zip tie. The zip tie is flexible enough to loop around and apply pressure on the mechanism when pulled from the cup holder side of the TCS. This is what I used but you can use string or anything similar on hand, just ensure that the mechanism is free to move when no pressure is applied.

155710155711

Then put everything back together and refit the TCS into the car, feed the zip tie and ring pull around the TCS and into the cup holder area, I used loose zip ties to hold the ring pull in place.
You may have a few extra fault codes from removing the TCS, simply clear these if you have a Diagnostic tool.

The Fix and further testing
My fault disappeared, I was expecting it to return at some point but I continued to drive on, comfortable that my newly installed shift lock release would keep me going if it did. And a few days later the fault returned.
155712
Again remove the TCS and open it up,
Optional Step if you wish to remove the solenoid, it is possible to test without removing it; we will need to remove the silver foil sticky black sticker thing that is attached to the front of the TCS (Alternatively cut through the middle of the foil where the plastic meets the metal). Then you can separate the lower section of the TCS into two (we now have three parts Top - printed circuit, Centre - Magnets and shift lock, & The Lower Metal with the raise / lower motor & shift lock solenoid.
Note; Careful not to pull out the main shaft as parts may fly out and we need them all in to work
155713
Firstly, I tested the shift lock solenoid itself, It’s rated at 9 volts and I measured the resistance at 6.1 Ohms, using a 9 volt battery is was clear that my solenoid works.

155714

155715

From here I inspected the printed circuit board with a microscope looking for damage or cracked solder joints, I found nothing, everything looked good except for a slight burn mark on a 1 Ohm resistor. I decided to re-solder several components next to the solenoid connector, you will need a good quality, small tip, high temperature soldering iron (mine was set at 420°C+), most solders used on modern circuits have little or no lead which makes them harder to work with.
155716
Circuit Board
155717
Burned Resistor marked 1R00 and area of interest.

After re soldering my TCS has worked continuously and I still have my lock release if needed.

Disclaimer
This is what I did for my issue and it worked for me, this will not fix other issues and will not fix a broken transmission, you will void any warranty on this unit by performing this repair, as always you undertake this repair at your own risk.

[INter674]

Great post..should be very usefull for anyone stuck in a precarious situation. As I know such failure can arise at any time usually in a bad location too!

[Mattblack59bus]

I have added a PDF file with a few annotations on the pictures. My next trick is attempting to fix the green LED ring.

Cheers
Marc

[DiscoJeffster]

I have added a PDF file with a few annotations on the pictures. My next trick is attempting to fix the green LED ring.

Cheers
Marc

I’ve got a failed LED in my terrain control switch LR036077. It’s the High range LED. Flags in the IID as a fault too. I was interested if it was possible to repair but haven’t pulled it apart. Not sure if it would be the LED, LED driver, or a bad solder joint given your findings.
Look forward to your findings.

[hiker]

Really enjoyed reading this post.
A huge thanks to Mattblack59bus for taking the time to investigate and share in such a comprehensive manner.
As a proud owner of a 2015/16 D4 it has not occirred that the sexy little knob may one day not 'rise to the occasion' or not perform as designed.
Even though I don't intend to risk the incoming tide situation, I am still an hour away from my LR dealer in Newcastle, and so now I have added a 20Torx, a plastic blade and the PDF print out in my toolkit.
Thanks again!
Cheers,
Grahame

[INter674]

Wish me luck I'm about to attemp a fix. Dealer wanted 375 for diagnosis alone..so I declined..at this stage anyhow.

Replacement TCS unit is LR090489..cost $880 from dealer via Melbourne. Dealer said they are seeing a few come thru lately with this problem and LR is not contributing to the fix unless warranty applies..which is now unlikely in most cases.

No cheaper from OS either unfortunately😐 and used units are also up there in price.

[hiker]

Best of luck with your 'fix' - meanwhile, is the car driveable?





Wish me luck I'm about to attemp a fix. Dealer wanted 375 for diagnosis alone..so I declined..at this stage anyhow.

Replacement TCS unit is LR090489..cost $880 from dealer via Melbourne. Dealer said they are seeing a few come thru lately with this problem and LR is not contributing to the fix unless warranty applies..which is now unlikely in most cases.

No cheaper from OS either unfortunately😐 and used units are also up there in price.

[LRD414]

I have added a PDF file with a few annotations on the pictures.
Brilliant write-up Marc, pdf downloaded & printed. Really appreciate the effort.

I have a query, just so I fully understand how to release the shift lock if ever required.
Please review the annotated image below & confirm if I have it correct ....

There's a raised element to the shift lock that can be "pushed", circled in the sketch below.
This piece sticks up from the main body of the shift lock and protrudes through a slot in the circuit board.
It doesn't seem to be in all your photos so perhaps it's attached to the solenoid somehow?


An alternative would be to use an elastic band (hair tie, string, zip tie etc) and hold the shift lock open.
If you do this you will get a second fault code stating a mechanical failure of the shift lock, and you can only select a drive mode whilst the brake pedal is pressed
If you're away on a trip and need to hold the shift lock open somehow it seems the vehicle will still be operational with this fault code?
ie you just need to press brake pedal whenever changing between P/D/R but otherwise you are operational until a permanent fix can be made.

Cheers,
Scott
https://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/Lever_Sketch.JPG

[INter674]

The car is not drivable cause the wife turned it off. Had she not we'd been able to drive forward only. Not sure what would have happened if we'd pulled the rip cord putting the tranny in N...prolly would have meant we could not select drive again...who knows😎

What a stupid stupid system!

[PhilipA]

The upcomiong and cancelled VXR has/had a pistol grip shifter,and some claimed this rotary dial was NOT fashion.

Regards PhilipA

[Mattblack59bus]

Hi Scott,

Yes you are correct, unfortunately I didn't have a photo whilst performing the action (I was too busy trying to get home).

There is a narrow raised section on the shift lock that protrudes into the circuit board where there is an optic sensor. Using this raised section you can slide the lock open, it's very easy and light pressure will open it.

If you tie the shift lock open, I originally thought it would create a safety risk by allowing a drive/reverse to be selected without the brake pedal (or a driver for that matter). However when I tested this, the Gearbox will not shift to drive/reverse without a brake pedal signal from the brake switch.

The instruction is really in it's first draft and a little rushed to help Eric, I'll add updates from any feedback or input anyone would like to add.

Cheers
Marc

[INter674]

Well I just spent 2.5 hours following Marc's excellent instructions pulling out the TCS and resoldering joints as he demonstrated.

Soldering these minute joints was really hard...so hard I had to adopt the Trappist Monk trick of reverting to my normal -10 myopia by removing my contacts. Then with a well pointed and powerful soldering iron plus strong light I was able to get them done...eyeballs about 3cm away from the joints 😆

I tested the solonoid in situ and it worked fine with 9v.

I then installed the rip cord as suggested. Put it all back together and Voila. ...it f n works😆😆😆😆😆

I would strongly recommend that all D4 owners with the rotary selector AT LEAST install the rip cord that way you won't get stuck in P or D or R when the solonoid goes open circuit/shorts...and it will eventually.

Why LR don't put in a manual override is beyond me..it can only be described as criminal lazy engineering.

Anyhow...If it keeps working I've saved a shed load of cash thanks to Marc and AULRO.

If not...well at least there's now a back up option until a new unit is installed.

Who hoooooo...take that Tilfords and LR😅

[INter674]

The shift lock mechanism is like a 5 sided open top rectangular box which slides in a square shaped canal moulded into the base plastic housing. Once apart you can clearly see where to drill a hole thru the housing proper and then thru the wall end of the rectangular box which forms the sliding shift lock mechanism. The lock part is on the other end of the 'box'. Only light pressure is required to pull it back thereby disengaging the lock from the selector shaft.

The zip tie method works well but you could use string or fishing line.

If opening to disengage the shift lock..look for a narrow pedastal like black plastic piece which as Marc says goes to the circuit board. Use this protrusion with your screwdriver to ease the lock mechanism back.

I'll try holding the rip cord back whilst changing gears tomorrow and see if it chucks a hissy fit.

[LRD414]

Any errors that had to be cleared after having it apart?

Scott

[INter674]

Yes the original one referred to by Marc...*

P176C-11 Transmission range selector lock control error – General electrical Failure – circuit short to ground

..which I think is actually an open circuit.. ..

..Plus another related to gearbox being placed in neutral and drive..missmatch or something. I'll check others again tomorrow and report back as I only cleared the one referred to in the PDF.

[INter674]

Just another aspect...the new TCS module according to LR needs to be configured to the vehicle. However I understand that owners have fitted new and used modules withour doing so and no issues have arisen

I contacted the GAP Team asking if the 11D tool can do this task and the answer was short and sweet ie "yes it can ".

Unfortunately they did not say how😐

Other members more familiar with this tool might know how.

[INter674]

Any errors that had to be cleared after having it apart?

Scott

Errors after install -

P176C trans range selector lock control error
U201B Control Module Calibration
U0126 Steering Angle Sensor

..Steering angle sensor needs reprogramming viz GAP Tool procedure...wheels straight ahead etc etc.

Others I cleared and unit continues to work okay today.

[LRD414]

U0126 Steering Angle Sensor
..Steering angle sensor needs reprogramming viz GAP Tool procedure...wheels straight ahead etc etc.
I think this is just a "lost comms" error (starts with a 'U')
It shouldn't need to be recalibrated if you only had TCS apart?
That's assuming steering angle sensor was not actually disturbed.

Regards,
Scott

[Mattblack59bus]

Hi Scott,

From what I understand Eric already had an error with the steering angle sensor U0126 prior to any gear selector issues, from what I'm reading the second fault U201B "Control Module Calibration" relates to steering angle sensor calibration in the BCM computer.
I suspect the steering angle sensor has been replaced at some point but not calibrated, or the steering angle sensor has a fault invalidating the calibration data? But that is just my guess.

With my D4 I haven't had any fault codes since the repair.

Cheers
Marc

[INter674]

Correct..the error has been there for some time b 4 the TCS issue arose.

All fixed now with a recalibration this am and the rotary gear selector is still working okay with a drive back to the place where it failed last week. No problems this time☺

[LRD414]

With my D4 I haven't had any fault codes since the repair.
This gives me a bit more confidence to attempt the manual release modification. However, you have scared me somewhat with the static charge issue. It's a tricky decision to preemptively open up a perfectly functioning module versus just knowing how to release the shift lock in an emergency and only attack it at that time. I have preemptively installed a manual release for the tailgate but that didn't involve sensitive electronics.

Cheers,
Scott

[INter674]

Just use a wooden kebab stick...no great force is needed if releasing from the side and unless you are soldering you won't be touching the circuit board anyway.

I also installed the hatch release. ..talk about reverse engineering!!

[Mattblack59bus]

Hi Scott,

Opening any electronic device has its risks, I was in the position where I was going to have to buy a new unit anyway so for me it was worth the risk.

If you take care not to build up any static on clothing etc and handle the board carefully you wont have a problem.

If you've had no issues with your TCS, I would probably just keep a T20 Torx driver in the car and use the quick fix if and when it happens.

I have no data on the longevity of the fix and for me the lock release is good piece of mind.

Cheers
Marc

[INter674]

Good advice Marc.

Also practice accessing the red lever under the console ...just like on a plane in the emergency seat row☺

Remove cup holder...just reef it up...use coin to turn lock...pull up the handle and get towed to a safe place.

Just in case you're also stuck with the handbrake on also note the emergency handbrake release cable loop is under the spill tray beneath the cup holders meaning 2 Phillips screws need to be taken out first.

If you can wait the module is about 200 bucks cheaper from the UK (search around as the price varies a lot) or 880 from LR Melbourne.

[Victim]

So many thanks to Marc for publishing such an informative and detailed writeup. I saved a link to the thread last Sunday in case I required it for future reference.

Little did I know that I'd need it so soon - last night I pulled into an angle park outside a shop, and couldn't shift out of D. I'd previously made myself familiar with the faint "click" of the shift lock solenoid when the brake pedal is touched, and knew it was not functioning now. My first thought was this thread and the lock solenoid issue, but I decided to start with the basics - surely it's just the brake pedal switch (which I've never had an issue with, but keep one in my spares box...). Going by IID tool live values I could see that the brake pedal switch was working fine. I didn't have any faults on the dash, but when I scanned for faults I found:

"P176C-11 (2F) Transmission range selector lock control error - circuit short to ground"

Note - I had the engine running through this entire procedure (even though I couldn't drive anywhere as I was against the kurb, stuck in D, aiming straight at a couple eating their dinner in an outdoor seating area of a café - I was worried that if I turned the engine off, that might be the point I'd have to give up hope and call for a tow truck...?). The back of my car is loaded with a multitude of tool cases I use for work, so I knew I had everything I needed, but I couldn't open the tailgate (LR safety feature won't allow it to open if the transmission is in D!). I managed to climb over my bass rig in the back seat (I was on my way to a band rehersal) and retrieve a small socket set that has a set of torx bits, then followed Marc's detailed instructions on removing and partially opening the TCS, and looping a rubber band (conveniently found in my drivers door storage tray) over the plastic shift lock arm, looping the other end around the corner of the housing so that it held the arm in the unlocked position. I checked the shift knob and it was now free. I shifted into park and finally felt comfortable to turn off the engine. I put 2x screws back into the housing and sat everything back into place (without any screws - it'll all be coming apart again this weekend), and was able to drive to band rehersal - an hour later than planned, but I was mobile!


FYI - the gear selector still feels perfectly normal in use, I have no faults on the dash and the Disco drives as sublimely as usual. I assume that without the shift lock mechanism functioning there could be a risk of bumping the gear selector in/out of gear while the vehicle is moving? I hope to find the time to strip the module apart and check the solenoid / solder joints etc more closely.

There is no way I would have even figured out how to access the TCS module let alone have the confidence to open it up if it wasn't for Marc's fantastic report, thanks again Mattblack59bus!!! If this had happened to me just 1 week ago, it would have been my first flatbed truck trip as a LR owner (and probably a week without a vehicle loaded with all of my work tools and band gear, plus many $$$ in parts and labour).

Cheers, Tim
2014 Discovery TDV6 @ 186,000km

[INter674]

Wow...we all owe Marc lots of beers☺

My situation was the same..ie engine running outside v busy shop...most embarrassing esp the tilt tray turning up with a dozen spectators looking on as my kids bolted in their rustic reliable Patrols.

Good outcome potentially saving you @ 1500 bucks or more. Mine was quoted at 1500 to 2000 by the stealer inc an upfront diagnostic charge of 375. ..parts 880...labour (est 2-3 hours) plus configuration and testing..plus GST. I had Roadside Assist but without it add another couple hundred or more.

PS I've emailed LR Aus about this issue..see what kind of fob off I get😐

[INter674]

LR Aus responded quickly to my email outlining concerns about the rotary shift lock failure.

They advise that a case has been opened to urgently investigate the failure which I described as a serious safety issue that should be addressed by at least the free replacement of the unit.

Good to see LR is looking into it promptly.

[DiscoJeffster]

LR Aus responded quickly to my email outlining concerns about the rotary shift lock failure.

They advise that a case has been opened to urgently investigate the failure which I described as a serious safety issue that should be addressed by at least the free replacement of the unit.

Good to see LR is looking into it promptly.

And a recall and replacement! Bwahahahahaha. LR do a recall [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]
What crank failures.....

[scarry]

After reading through this thread,i am just glad mine hasn't got one,just one less thing to go wrong.[biggrin]

[Mattblack59bus]

FYI - the gear selector still feels perfectly normal in use, I have no faults on the dash and the Disco drives as sublimely as usual. I assume that without the shift lock mechanism functioning there could be a risk of bumping the gear selector in/out of gear while the vehicle is moving? I hope to find the time to strip the module apart and check the solenoid / solder joints etc more closely.


Hi Tim, I'm happy the fix worked for you, hopefully it's not going to start affecting all the 8 speed boxes. In regards to the bumping the shift selector risk, in my testing the gear box will not select a drive mode without the brake pedal being pressed at the time of the gear change. I would recommend you test this in a safe location.

Cheers
Marc

[INter674]

As expected I received the LR fob off to my email outlining safety concerns about rotary controller shift lock failure.

They said they could not comnent on my or any other diagnosis and to take the car to the dealer for proper diagnosis....but did not offer to pay for it.

They did not advise that any further action would be taken.

Pretty ordinary given they could easily check on parts supply or repair data which they would have access to...or promise to report the issue to LR UK for further investigation.

Mmm.....

[Victim]

In regards to the bumping the shift selector risk, in my testing the gear box will not select a drive mode without the brake pedal being pressed at the time of the gear change. I would recommend you test this in a safe location

Correct - With the shift lock tied permanently out of the way the shift dial still clicks when rotated with the same amount of resistance as before (with the brake pedal depressed), so it's highly unlikely to be accidentally bumped to another position when driving. My main concern was whether I was exposing the vehicle to potential gearbox destruction if the selector was somehow bumped from D to R while cruising >100km/h.

I haven't actually tested while in motion, but confirmed that if I rotate the selector without my foot on the brake, the gearbox drops out of gear into Neutral and the gear indicator flashes. Then you need to rotate the selector all the way around to Park to reset it, then press the brake pedal, select D or R and you're off again. Based on this, as far as I can see, the only risk disabling the shift lock permanently is if the dial is rotated while driving at speed in heavy traffic, you can't simply click into N and back to D - you have to bring the vehicle to a stop first.

I spend a lot of time off road, and my Disco has been through some pretty crazy terrain. Since the shift lock issue this week I have recalled countless precarious situations I have been in off road that could have ended in disaster had the problem occurred at the wrong moment (get hooked up on an unseen rock halfway across a deep river crossing, loose traction on a steep, loose uphill and need to reverse to try another line, etc...) that at this stage I plan to leave my shift lock disabled unless anyone can convince me otherwise.

[LRD414]

.... at this stage I plan to leave my shift lock disabled .....
Your thinking on the risk/reward balance of this seems reasonable to me. However, if the shift lock is actually functioning and you disable it, I assume the solenoid would still be trying to operate the lock. So I'm thinking leaving it disabled is only an option when it has failed already, unless you went further and disconnected the solenoid.

Regards,
Scott

[INter674]

Yes the solonoid if working will still try to do its job if the mechanism is tied back. I think being spring loaded it has buffering and is not position sensitive ie it is powered up normally thereby retracted so tieing it back causes no drama.

Released it has no power so tied back makes no difference.

Since the fix mine is working fine.

[hiker]

Hi there - been reading this thread over the past few days and seriously thinking about carrying a spare on our next trip out west (Broken Hill, Flinders etc) - seems like a necessary addition to our spares box!

Quick question - if I purchase one, is is a simple swap process in the middle of nowhere or is it a complicated process with a 'grey' outcome?

Been blissfully exploring Vic, tas, Qld expecting the knob to rise as required - never thought about it!

Many thanks in advance! PS I'm getting TSC jitters!

cheers
Grahame

2015/16 D4 TDV6

[DiscoJeffster]

seems like a necessary addition to our spares

You have seen the price of them yeah? I guess if you find one second hand.....

[LRD414]

..... if I purchase one, is is a simple swap process in the middle of nowhere or is it a complicated process with a 'grey' outcome?
This is how I look at it .... virtually the same effort to effect the temporary shift lock retraction as per Marc's PDF instructions in this thread as it would be to replace the TCS but a lot cheaper (free). Just print the document and carry the required tools in the centre console.

Cheers,
Scott

[INter674]

Replacement is easy enough but LR says the unit needs to be configured to the car. However plenty of folks OS eg with jags have installed new and 2nd hand units without configuring them. The GAP Team say their 11D Tool can configure the unit but did not say how.

I've purchased a used one from the UK and intend to check out these issues once it gets here...next week hopefully. New unit is 880 A $.

[hiker]

Thanks Scott - really looking forward to your update!

I am trying to balance the cost of a spare with the stress and pressure of being in the middle of nowhere and trying to get to the next stop - I'm a semi retired traveller with a nervous wife/passenger!

Cheers
Grahame





Replacement is easy enough but LR says the unit needs to be configured to the car. However plenty of folks OS eg with jags have installed new and 2nd hand units without configuring them. The GAP Team say their 11D Tool can configure the unit but did not say how.

I've purchased a used one from the UK and intend to check out these issues once it gets here...next week hopefully. New unit is 880 A $.

[DiscoJeffster]

I think the likelihood of this ever happening while you’re remote is so remote, carrying a piece of paper and adding the necessary tools to the bag is more than enough prep. After all, where do you stop then with your spares regime? Sod’s law is the only thing that will break you won’t be carrying anyhow!

[INter674]

I think the likelihood of this ever happening while you’re remote is so remote, carrying a piece of paper and adding the necessary tools to the bag is more than enough prep. After all, where do you stop then with your spares regime? Sod’s law is the only thing that will break you won’t be carrying anyhow!

I think the odds are quite high based on OS experiences with the exact same unit in LRs and Jags which unfortunately are failing with the same lock up issue at varying age/klms. I did ask LR for info on replacement rates inc numbers of new part being sold etc but they did not reply. Tilfords in Hobart said they've seen a "few" and there's not too many rotary shifters in Sthn Tas compared to elsewhere.

If the issue is a dry or defective solder joint...and all indications are that this is the cause on the solonoid circuit..moisture ..vibration..or circuit board heat could well influence how and when it goes open circuit. But then again is the new unit any better?

If I was travelling I would certainly fit an override system beforehand.. it will take an hour or two. That's all.

PS even 2004 Patrols have a button to override the shift lock should the electrics fail. Why LR didn't do that is beyond reason.

[Discodicky]

I think the odds are quite high based on OS experiences with the exact same unit in LRs and Jags which unfortunately are failing with the same lock up issue at varying age/klms. I did ask LR for info on replacement rates inc numbers of new part being sold etc but they did not reply. Tilfords in Hobart said they've seen a "few" and there's not too many rotary shifters in Sthn Tas compared to elsewhere.

If the issue is a dry or defective solder joint...and all indications are that this is the cause on the solonoid circuit..moisture ..vibration..or circuit board heat could well influence how and when it goes open circuit. But then again is the new unit any better?

If I was travelling I would certainly fit an override system beforehand.. it will take an hour or two. That's all.

PS even 2004 Patrols have a button to override the shift lock should the electrics fail. Why LR didn't do that is beyond reason.

Today I spoke with my friend Alan at British 4WD at Seven Mile Beach (Tas). He sells Genuine & Aftermarket LR/RR parts to all states of Aus. Due to the fact that I tow my c/van all over Aus I am very concerned re potential failure at the most awkward time and remote location and am of the opinion it would be very cost effective for me to have an improved (?) updated (?) part fitted PRIOR failure. There have been 8 part number updates, but as he says, some of those could simply be due to changes of the Manufacturer of the component. If I could be convinced the replacement part was improved and "fixed" then I would install one without hesitation.

[INter674]

From reading US Jag forums I understand that LR changed manufacturer of the unit some time around 2010 after repeated failures in Jags and to address the failing diode issues. The shift lock mechanism design was changed and a known circuir board solder issue was addressed.

Various forums continue to report failures in cars post 2010 so it seems problems are continuing😐. Like us some US Jag techs are sucessfully resoldering resister joints. PS in Canada LR replaced Jag rotary controllers free of charge. In the US the Fed Agency for car safety investigated this issue resulting in LR extending warranty over the part. In Aus....zilch.

I've now written to LR UK seeking advice about these failures and remain hopeful of a meaningful reply.

[LRD414]

....If the issue is a dry or defective solder joint...and all indications are that this is the cause on the solonoid circuit.....
How many solder connections did you re-do or fix? In Marc's original description it seemed like he soldered at quite a few. I have no experience with soldering PCBs.

Scott

[scarry]

PS even 2004 Patrols have a button to override the shift lock should the electrics fail. Why LR didn't do that is beyond reason.

Together with the stupid idea of removing the dipstick from the 3.0L V6,it says it all about LR and their silly ideas.

Another good example of dumb technology for what gain?

[INter674]

I soldered all of those Marc indicated.

Dumb design yes...and one that's been adopted by other car makers inc Ford Chrysler Merc and BMW some of whom have recalled cars to fix the unit.

Consumer organisations have slammed the design and deduct points from car ratings if they have them. In the US there are allegations of roll away injuries/crushings caused by the unit not selecting Park ..either automatically or if selected by the driver. Of course US drivers often don't put on the handbrake!

[INter674]

Mmmmm....LR UK have referred my concerns to....guess who...LR Aus of course.

This is worse than dealing with Centrelink!!

I give up😐

[hiker]

Apologies in advance!

Well I took my T20 Torx and the usual Phillips driver and started to follow the instructions form the PDF - removed the cup holder and the spill tray - simple - all good!

155941

The next paragraph starts "Open up the centre console lid ..." ouch! On my 15 D4 I cannot find a 'lid' - am I missing something here? Also tried 'pulling up' on the sides of the centre console where the cup holder is - not a hint of movement.

What am I missing here?

Thanks

Grahame

[hiker]

Read your post with a resigned smile - two things come to mind here - play dumb, and secondly, refer to your nearest dealer! Our nearest dealer always can't assist on the phone, and says "bring it in" - they've got to keep the income flowing!

155942



Mmmmm....LR UK have referred my concerns to....guess who...LR Aus of course.

This is worse than dealing with Centrelink!!

I give up😐

[INter674]

Apologies in advance!

Well I took my T20 Torx and the usual Phillips driver and started to follow the instructions form the PDF - removed the cup holder and the spill tray - simple - all good!

155941

The next paragraph starts "Open up the centre console lid ..." ouch! On my 15 D4 I cannot find a 'lid' - am I missing something here? Also tried 'pulling up' on the sides of the centre console where the cup holder is - not a hint of movement.

What am I missing here?

Thanks

Grahame

Hope you got..you need to pull up and out/forward the front sides of the centre console. Be brave☺

[Mog60]

The next paragraph starts "Open up the centre console lid ..." ouch! On my 15 D4 I cannot find a 'lid' - am I missing something here? Also tried 'pulling up' on the sides of the centre console where the cup holder is - not a hint of movement.

What am I missing here?

Thanks

Grahame

This video may help from Powerful UK. around 1min:20s. Not quite the same but does show lifting arm rest out of way etc.


YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZHlqi0F8Pk)

[hiker]

Excellent - thanks very much - here's me looking forward and I should have been looking for 'the lid' - OK - slightly pink face but certainly not the first time, and guaranteed not the last!



This video may help from Powerful UK. around 1min:20s. Not quite the same but does show lifting arm rest out of way etc.


YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZHlqi0F8Pk)

[hiker]

Many thanks!

Just watched the Youtube clip and now focussing on the bin lid (old Defender talk!)

Will grab the unit with gusto and advise level of bravery.... and the outcome!

cheers, and thanks again!


Hope you got..you need to pull up and out/forward the front sides of the centre console. Be brave☺

[hiker]

Hopefully true - I have managed the ridiculous spare wheel winch access, the rear tailgate manual override, now the shift module. I have a bit of time so will monitor the forum and study the pull cord option.

Cheers!




I think the likelihood of this ever happening while you’re remote is so remote, carrying a piece of paper and adding the necessary tools to the bag is more than enough prep. After all, where do you stop then with your spares regime? Sod’s law is the only thing that will break you won’t be carrying anyhow!

[INter674]

Many thanks!

Just watched the Youtube clip and now focussing on the bin lid (old Defender talk!)

Will grab the unit with gusto and advise level of bravery.... and the outcome!

cheers, and thanks again!

How did you go?

[icthussun]

I have added a PDF file with a few annotations on the pictures. My next trick is attempting to fix the green LED ring.

Cheers
Marc

Thanks Marc for posting this. I have a Disco 4 MY14, owned it from new, 120,000kms on the clock and had just returned home, drove into the garage and couldn't put the transmission into Park. It was stuck in Drive. If it's going to fail, I guess there's no better place than in your own garage. Found your thread and was able to follow everything in your instructions - very well described, though I did have to check youtube for lifting the centre console bit as mine was very tight and I wasn't sure if I'd break something. I first tried releasing the shift lock and put it back to Park and was able to start the car but still couldn't turn the dial. So opened the TCS again and held the shift lock open with some gaffer tape. I happen to have my car already book in for service, so will ask them to fix it permanently as part of the service but happy I can at least drive the car and don't need to get it towed. Keeping all the required tools in the glovebox just in case that gaffer tape fails!

[PhilipA]

Lucky they have abandoned this system in the new Defender .
Ah Fashion!
Regards PhilipA

[LRD414]

....drove into the garage and couldn't put the transmission into Park. It was stuck in Drive....
When stuck in Drive were you able to simply turn off engine as normal?

Regards,
Scott

[INter674]

When stuck in Drive were you able to simply turn off engine as normal?

Regards,
Scott

Yes..wife turned ours off..so no power steering or brakes when the towie turned up. Ah..another one...he said 😐

[glenn20869]

So I'm another unfortunate soul who's 2014 TDV6 D4 decided it would join the crowd and fail the TCS unit. Thankfully I'm an avid reader of this forum and had seen this particular thread with Marc's comprehensive work around so I was able to use the cable tie method to get home. I thought I wouldn't have to cop the $880 replacement cost as I purchased an extended warranty which had this as a line item... "Electronic transmission components - computer and solenoids only". Silly me! I was duly informed by warranty provider that the TCS module is not "in the transmission" and therefore is not covered.

[INter674]

Same happened to us and Tilfords wanted 1200 plus to replace it.

Use the thread to solder the joints as per Marcs instructions. Buy a decent soldering iron and magnifying unit first.

I'm very short sighted so like a Trappist monk I did not need a magnifier..just took out the contacts😚

Had zero problems since....touching lots of wood tho🙄

We used a Goot soldering iron from jaycar.

[grod]

Matt you legend.

Disco Sport MY16 stuck in Drive. NRMA had no idea but I got towed home and used 2 cable ties and a chop stick to retain the plastic locking slide for a temporary fix. I need to buy some tiny torx to remove the circuit board and look for crappy soldering or other issues before I pay $large for a replacement unit.

Thanks again and that PDF is so convenient.

I've shared this post on the UK DS forum and assuming you don't mind.

g

[Graeme]

The burn mark around the 1 ohm resistor will most likely be due to inadequate heat-sink to dissipate the heat generated by the voltage drop across the resistor which has progressively melted the solder until contact is eventually lost. The resistor will be in the circuit so that voltage drop across it can be measured to detect if the motor is drawing current while operating, whereby no voltage drop would indicate an open circuit for the motor but zero voltage on the motor side would indicate a short to earth, which is the fault being recorded.

I doubt that there were poor solder joints, instead that this resistor requires a better heat-sink which is usually provided either by a larger wattage version of the component that would also have larger contact pads to better dissipate heat into the pcb or at least have larger contact pads. Hence the fault is likely to re-occur in time unless an improved heat-sink is provided. Replacing the resistor with a direct link so as to avoid heat generation would trigger a motor open circuit fault so is not an option.

Edit: Its probably good practice to avoid unnecessarily having the foot-brake applied while the vehicle is in park or neutral so as to reduce the time the shift lock motor is powered and therefore reduce the heat dissipated by that resistor. Shifting to neutral while stopped at traffic lights is an example of excessive powering of the shift lock motor.

[INter674]

Interesting comment re the resister. We found no burn marks on ours and it has been good for many thoussnd of ks since resoldering as per the advice.

Only had one fail when I shifted it from d to r and d again quite quickly which caused it to sieze up...oh **** I thought...but all good after re boot😚

[Graeme]

Burn marks would only occur if the joint has been make/break for a while. If it goes high resistance due to becoming a cold solder joint then no arcing, effectively becoming open circuit when under the load of the motor.

[rowesa]

Thanks of the detailed info on here, it is very helpful - I have a couple of questions.

Problem: When using the car for more that 20mins the dial gets stuck in Drive and won't move out of Drive - suspect this is the same issue reported in this thread. If I turn the car off the dial retracts and moves to park. When restarting the car, the dial is free to move as it should.

Given the nature of the issue and the fact I tow a large caravan I wanted to resolve asap. I have managed to purchase a used control unit for £100 - so plan to simply exchange the unit.

Do I need to disconnect the battery prior to removing the gear selector unit?

Will I need a code reader to setup the gear selector unit once installed?

Many thanks

Steve

[Llandy4]

Thank you for the comprehensive guide. I copied what you have done as mine was locking intermittently. Glad I did as the solenoid appears to have packed in altogether. I've been quoted £330 for a new unit. Do you or anyone know if the new part is plug and play or if it would need to be programmed in. Thanks

[Llandy4]

Thanks of the detailed info on here, it is very helpful - I have a couple of questions.

Problem: When using the car for more that 20mins the dial gets stuck in Drive and won't move out of Drive - suspect this is the same issue reported in this thread. If I turn the car off the dial retracts and moves to park. When restarting the car, the dial is free to move as it should.

Given the nature of the issue and the fact I tow a large caravan I wanted to resolve asap. I have managed to purchase a used control unit for £100 - so plan to simply exchange the unit.

Do I need to disconnect the battery prior to removing the gear selector unit?

Will I need a code reader to setup the gear selector unit once installed?

Many thanks

Steve

Hi Steve, did you have to programme the exchanged unit or is it plug and play. Cheers

[greiswig]

Registered for this post specifically. This is a world-class example of helping out others! Fantastic writeup and research. Sincere thanks and yes, we all owe you the beverage of your choice.

[GIL]

Hi All,
Firstly a big thank you to Matt for the superb write-up.
I decided to install it as a pre-emptive measure when I had the console out recently. It all worked a treat.

While I had the gear selector assy apart I had a close look at the circuit board. To remove it you just need to use a T8 torx bit to remove the 4 screws and it lifts out.
I found a switch on it which is activated by a silicon stand-off which holds the switch closed when the selector unit is assembled.

The switch appears to control the green light around the gear knob.
I cut the silicon stand-off so its height was below the ridge of the silicon membrane and thus the switch was open now.
See the attached photos for the detail. They are not great but you get the idea.

I now have a green light! It comes on when ignition is on and lights are on.

If you look into this you are playing with electronics and thus you need to take all static discharge precautions when handling the circuit board.

171964171965171963


Happy playing
GIL

[laughto]

Thanks to Marc for the detailed fix to this problem.

Not sure if my problem is exactly the same as it is intermittent and my diagnostic tool (Blackbox) does not show this error (P176C-11). The problem has occurred twice in the past few days, but has so far 'rectified' itself, the first time within a few minutes, the second time overnight.

Situation - start car normally, selector raises as normal, foot on brake, try to turn selector and stuck - will not turn.

Before I go pulling the TCS assembly apart, are there any other reasons that the selector would get stuck in P and not rotate? Anything else that I should be checking?

[laughto]

I've been quoted £330 for a new unit. Do you or anyone know if the new part is plug and play or if it would need to be programmed in. Thanks

Did you ever get an answer to this? Did you ever purchase a new unit and install? Was the intermittent problem the TCS or something else such as the Brake switch?

[rapserv]

The car is not drivable cause the wife turned it off. Had she not we'd been able to drive forward only. Not sure what would have happened if we'd pulled the rip cord putting the tranny in N...prolly would have meant we could not select drive again...who knows😎

What a stupid stupid system!

You have to wonder about the clowns they employed to design these systems.
A Land Rover ... a vehicle that has always been a vehicle that has been used to go into some extremely rugged and remote places .. and they put systems like this in them.
It's like they got these people straight out of Uni .. no experience at all in 4x4 and remote travel .. gave them the latest catalogue from RS Components and said go for your life and design a complex whiz bang piece of wizardry that's not entirely reliable and while you're at it .. make sure that you don't build a release or bypass mechanism into it.
The damn car is full of this nonsense .. not to mention the cheap nasty plastic components like dodgy air intake manifolds and the positioning of components that need to have the entire body removed to carry out a generally easy service.

I thought my D2 was a problem to work on .. but this is at a whole new level of stupidity!!
The vehicle, when working as it should, is a very capable vehicle .. however .. most of the time I'm too terrified to take the thing offroad remotely out of fear of some minor unrepairable issue leaving me in a possible life threatening situation.

Land Rover have completely lost the plot!!

[PhilipA]

I thought my D2 was a problem to work on .. but this is at a whole new level of stupidity!!
The vehicle, when working as it should, is a very capable vehicle .. however .. most of the time I'm too terrified to take the thing offroad remotely out of fear of some minor unrepairable issue leaving me in a possible life threatening situation.
It's probably more that a vendor comes to them with a you beaut idea that will be a great feature and enable them to sell more cars, or save weight or be quieter.
hence the electric handbrake, and most probably the dial. Probably ZF has promoted it.

Regards PhilipA

[DiscoJeffster]

It's probably more that a vendor comes to them with a you beaut idea that will be a great feature and enable them to sell more cars, or save weight or be quieter.
hence the electric handbrake, and most probably the dial. Probably ZF has promoted it.

Regards PhilipA

It is exactly that. ZF make the box that way and sold LR on the idea. Marketing demand wiz bang new stuff and suppliers continue to enhance and develop. It’s just life - fancy and new stuff sells.

If you don’t want to keep with the times and progress, even if going forward you sometimes take a step back, I guess you might consider the typewriter I have in the shed to post your comments on this forum? You can post the comment to me via Australia post and I’ll post it up for you. It’ll take a few weeks I expect.

Sure some tech seems like tech for the sake of tech, and really it is, but it’s all stepping stones to a new future. Some great steps, some not so. We wouldn’t have any of the things we take for granted if we didn’t push the boundaries in everything.

[rapserv]

It is exactly that. ZF make the box that way and sold LR on the idea. Marketing demand wiz bang new stuff and suppliers continue to enhance and develop. It’s just life - fancy and new stuff sells.

If you don’t want to keep with the times and progress, even if going forward you sometimes take a step back, I guess you might consider the typewriter I have in the shed to post your comments on this forum? You can post the comment to me via Australia post and I’ll post it up for you. It’ll take a few weeks I expect.

Sure some tech seems like tech for the sake of tech, and really it is, but it’s all stepping stones to a new future. Some great steps, some not so. We wouldn’t have any of the things we take for granted if we didn’t push the boundaries in everything.

I have no problem with advanced technology and moving ahead.
I just don't think that a lot of this new tech belongs in a 4X4 .. regardless of the make.
A 4x4 has traditionally been used for doing remote travel, very often under arduous conditions and there is little place for whiz bang gadgets that ones very life may well depend are working .. especially if there is no way of bypassing a fault.

[PerthDisco]

Every 8 speed owner should watch this

9 things I did not know before I bought my Land Rover Discovery 4 / LR4 - YouTube (https://youtu.be/Uvh6d0pKEgY)

[sparky_pete]

Thanks to Marc for the detailed fix to this problem.

Not sure if my problem is exactly the same as it is intermittent and my diagnostic tool (Blackbox) does not show this error (P176C-11). The problem has occurred twice in the past few days, but has so far 'rectified' itself, the first time within a few minutes, the second time overnight.

Situation - start car normally, selector raises as normal, foot on brake, try to turn selector and stuck - will not turn.

Before I go pulling the TCS assembly apart, are there any other reasons that the selector would get stuck in P and not rotate? Anything else that I should be checking?

Did we get an answer if we need to disconnect the battery prior to unplugging the TCS?

EDIT: I went ahead and disconnected while the car was off anyway and reconnected about 20 mins later with no visible faults. But then again i don't have a diagnostic tool. Thats nexts on the shopping list.

[theegovernor]

Saved me a tow of shame. Thanks!

[Minemapper]

Just wanted to add my thanks for this fantastic write up. Ironic that I had to go to the other side of the world to find it, when I'm only a few hours from Solihull here. I don't have time to mess with repairing the unit at the moment, so I bit the bullet and got a new one (£400 offering to the LR gods), but when I have a bit of time I will have a go at the repair of the old unit and keep it as a spare.

[NiftyStyles]

Like Minemapper, I'm a Limey who read this thread a fortnight ago when my transmission locked up in Park when I stopped to inspect some crops.
It happened twice on the bounce, each time refusing to turn and engage a gear after the knob rose up when ignition switched on. On these occasions, repeated turning off and on and knocking the console around the knob seemed to trigger the solenoid into life .. eventually. Went straight to my local garage and plugged diagnostics in to find no fault codes and it refused to repeat the problem.

Roll on two weeks and yesterday I turned into the driveway at the back of my house and drove up to the neighbours fence at the appropriate angle to reverse round and face back the way I had come in .... only the gearbox locked in Drive with the front bumper inches from the fence. Tried banging the console as I played on the brake pedal, creeping ever closer to the fence. Eventually I was forced to switch the engine off .. which then would not restart due to gearbox being in Drive. So, no option other than firing up this thread on my phone (signal is carp here too) and then going through the procedure. I got to the part where I had the three screws out of the TGS case and the fourth one loosened, so I could peer inside to find the plastic tongue to pull back, when the knob lowered slightly before returning to the raised position and then I was able to turn it back to Park. I switched the engine on (holding the TGS case closed with my left hand) and then turned the dial to reverse and hey presto I was out of my predicament. I drove the vehicle immediately to my mates garage and parked it up (in case the worst were to happen and I fecked the whole thing up). I then switched everything off, unplugged and removed the TGS and brought it home (lift from nephew in his 2004 D3 manual).

I have pulled the TGS apart and have drilled a couple of holes in the casing appropriately and cable tied the selector lock permanently open.
Put it all back together again and off we go.
Electronic safety measures prevent inadvisable gear changes being made even with no selector lock, so perhaps this is a redundancy element in the safety system.

Thank you very much for this superb thread and instructions.
Instead of spending £500+ on a new unit ... when they are back in (only 2 in the UK when we enquired 2 weeks ago and they are reserved) ... I spent all of tuppence ha'penny on a couple of tiny cable ties.
(I did, however, expend a great number of expletives to start with and a number of cups of coffee whilst I browsed this thread.)

Having had two D2s and one 6 speed D4, I am now on my second 8 speed D4 (all commercial variants) and it is by far the least reliable .. in fact I must be blessed because the two previous D4s both did over 170k miles without any issues other than the usual serviceable items (suspension bushes etc). This third D4 is most definitely a Friday afternoon lemon though - occasionally volunteers to go into limp home mode for no apparent reason, this gearbox selector issue, occasionally decides it doesn't want to raise the suspension when you get to a heavily tractor rutted track - and it has only just turned 100k [bighmmm]

When the car is your office, the lowering of the centre knob when ignition off is very handy to give a decent area of "desktop".
However, as Rapserv says above, they really should have designed a release mechanism for when these things failed, particularly since they were failing and being repaired under warranty at least a couple of years before they ended production of the D4. My latest, as a 2106 vehicle, should have had a release cable, as described in this thread, from manufacture.

[RicoF]

First of all I would like to thank the author for the manual in pdf, it was extremely helpful in diagnosing my gear selector. It just got stuck but when testing solenoid it was fine, checked cct board and everything was good too... so I was at a loss.

Then I noticed that the plastic part which pushes gear selector up/down was broken, even though the knob still goes up and down. Hence I thought it might have got stuck. The question is, is there anywhere I can source that plastic part(marked with red arrow)? If not I was thinking of maybe scan and 3D print it unless someone did it already...

TIA

181285

[laughto]

The question is, is there anywhere I can source that plastic part(marked with red arrow)? If not I was thinking of maybe scan and 3D print it unless someone did it already...

TIA

181285

If you have no luck, DM me. I have replaced my failed TGS with new and still have the old one. While I won't canabalise it for one component, we might be able to come to a satisfactory agreement.

[johannsson]

So glad to have found this amazing source. I have a 2016 DS that had the infamous stuck in Park problem. I disassembled the Gear shift module partially , drilled a tiny hole in the end of the unit and attached a very strong nylon noose around that little plastic piece that connects to the locking mechanism. Now I can gently pull on the string to put the car in any gear, as long as I am careful not to take my foot off the brake pedal. I am almost tempted to not replace the whole pricey unit. Thanks for the info.

P176C-11 Transmission range selector lock control error – General electrical Failure – circuit short to ground

Background
The shift lock solenoid is a safety lock to prevent the transmission from selecting a drive mode without having the brake pedal applied. It will only lock in Park & Neutral and should never lock in Drive or Reverse.
In the event of a no power condition (ie; flat battery) the 6 speed transmission in the discovery 3 and 4 (as most cars do) have a “shift lock release” to release the shift lock solenoid which enables the gear lever to be moved to the Neutral position, as this lever is connected to the transmission via a physical mechanical cable, it will select Neutral without power.
Unfortunately in the 8 speed transmission there is no physical cable connecting the shift dial to the transmission, the only connection is “electronic data” via the vehicle’s CAN BUS network (with a local network connection to the transmission as a backup). In the event of a no power condition, turning the dial (if you could) wouldn’t do anything.

The Problem
What Land Rover did to overcome this issue was to add a mechanical cable that enables you to shift to Neutral without turning the dial, now this works well if you want to get towed, but what if you DO have power, a good battery, parked on the beach, engine running, tide coming in and the dial is locked in Park (or locked in drive with the engine off) due to a faulty shift lock solenoid. There is the real problem, you can’t select drive as there is no shift lock release (and you can’t start the car if the dial is in Drive even if you pull the Neutral lever).

Quick get me off the beach solution
(tools to keep in the car; T20 Torx driver, Philips Drive)
What we need to do is access the (TCS) transmission Control Switch, the rotary dial bit.
First we need to remove the cup holder and the spill tray below it using the Philips driver (or a small flat blade if that’s all you have).
Open up the centre console lid and start pulling up on the sides of the centre console where the cup holder is, the entire centre section surrounding the TCS should lift up and come free. It will slide backwards away from the dash.

155702


Now the Centre is loose, roll the entire assembly onto the passenger seat, taking care not to stretch the cable harness, I don’t recommend disconnecting the main harness as you will get a large number of faults and the dash cluster goes off (you have enough fault codes to deal with already).
Using the T20 Torx Driver undo the 4 screws holding on the plastic trim surrounding the TCS, also unto the 4 screws holding on the Mode selection/height/low range switch panel.
Two of the screws are hidden behind the Gray and Green connectors, if you cannot access these screws simply release the connector from its holder BUT don’t disconnect the connection itself.
Important Note;
The brass screw at the base of the TSC will raise and lower the rotary dial, it will be very easy to turn, the dial can be used (turned) in the fully lowered AND fully raised position, however do not turn this screw if the dial is not in Park, the dial will attempt to rotate to Park as it is lowered, if your shift lock solenoid is in the locked position (unpowered) and the dial is in anything but Park you will break something.
155703

After undoing the 8 screws roll the entire assembly back into its normal position. (Making sure that all electrical connections are still in place)
Carefully remove the plastic surround from the TCS, you can gently lift it up from the cup holder side, part of it will sit under the Mode selection/height/low range switch panel.

155704

Using the T20 Torx driver, remove the 4 screws holding the TCS into the console, you can now lift the TCS out of the console and lay it on its side.
Remove 3 of the 4 screws on the outside edge on the base of the TCS, do not undo the screws in the centre of the unit, they hold the motor and solenoid in place.
155708
You must do the following with the dial in the raised position, if you’re in Drive the dial will be raised, if you’re in Park raise the dial by turning the brass screw, and be gentle.
The last screw we will use to hold everything together, undo this screw so that the unit is held together but open enough so that you can place a screwdriver into the unit and release the shift lock.
Important Note;
The shift lock is plastic, be gentle. The circuit board doesn’t want a short circuit, be careful. I used a screwdriver but you could use something non conductive.
We don’t want to open the unit too far because the gear selection circuitry uses magnets and magnometer sensors, opening the unit separates the two, open too far and the chip won’t see the change in gear when we turn the dial, or may see an invalid selection.
155706
Fully opened view of the TCS (taken during the repair procedure, you don’t need to open the unit this far yet)
155707

What we need to do is gently release the shift lock with a screwdriver (or non conductive tool) with one hand and turn the dial with the other hand (if turning to drive or reverse you will still need your foot on the brake pedal (and a working brake light switch))
Once you have made your gear selection, we need to tighten the single screw holding the unit together and if driving some distance I would place the TCS back into its correct location.
An alternative would be to use an elastic band (hair tie, string, zip tie etc) and hold the shift lock open. If you do this you will get a second fault code stating a mechanical failure of the shift lock, and you can only select a drive mode whilst the brake pedal is pressed (working brake switch), turning the dial to drive without the brake pedal results in a flashing D or R on the dash and no drive.

The work around fix
This fix is good for fault finding an intermittent fault and for peace of mind, it involves creating a shift lock lever under the cup holder that will quickly release the shift lock if the solenoid fails, however I don’t recommend using this method for long term use (who wants to lift the cup holder for every gear change?). And remember if you have no power using this will not enable you to select Neutral, you will still need to use the red lever for that.
Perform the procedure above to remove the TCS, once the TCS is free, disconnect the TCS cable, you will need to raise the red locking lever/tab to remove the connector, again nothing needs to be forced so don’t break anything.
Take the TCS to a clean workbench or kitchen table, the TCS does contain static sensitive circuits so take care not to have any static build up (google that if you need to).
To open the unit fully we will need to remove the black plastic centre cap from the metal dial, the cap is held on with double sided tape, to do this we push a small flat blade screw driver between the edge of the plastic and the metal dial and lever slowly up, I also used a box cutter and pushed the blade into the small gap once it started to lift (be careful if you do), I managed to get this off without any issue but don’t worry if you damage the cap as aftermarket replacements are available in a range of colours.


Once the plastic cap is off we can remove the metal dial using a T20 Torx driver.
Turn the unit over and remove the 6 T20 Torx screws, 2 hold the plastic cover around the connector, the remaining 4 hold the unit together around the outside edge (don’t remove the 3 screws in the centre of the metal section, they hold the motor and solenoid in place)
Remove the plastic cover from around the connector first (taking care not to bend the connector pins), under this cover there are two cables one for the solenoid and one for the drive motor (to raise and lower the dial), disconnect both cables.
You should now be able to separate the TCS into two halves.
As the picture above

Next we’re going to drill a hole into the case and through the end of the plastic locking mechanism, I’m not going to give measurements but you will want the holes to line up and be roughly 3 mm, take your time (measure once and drill twice, or something like that).
155709

Take a long thin zip tie and loop it around a key ring and zip it up (this will be your ring pull), then thread the other end through the hole and connect a second zip tie to this, cut off the excess zip tie and the rest of the second zip tie. The zip tie is flexible enough to loop around and apply pressure on the mechanism when pulled from the cup holder side of the TCS. This is what I used but you can use string or anything similar on hand, just ensure that the mechanism is free to move when no pressure is applied.

155710155711

Then put everything back together and refit the TCS into the car, feed the zip tie and ring pull around the TCS and into the cup holder area, I used loose zip ties to hold the ring pull in place.
You may have a few extra fault codes from removing the TCS, simply clear these if you have a Diagnostic tool.

The Fix and further testing
My fault disappeared, I was expecting it to return at some point but I continued to drive on, comfortable that my newly installed shift lock release would keep me going if it did. And a few days later the fault returned.
155712
Again remove the TCS and open it up,
Optional Step if you wish to remove the solenoid, it is possible to test without removing it; we will need to remove the silver foil sticky black sticker thing that is attached to the front of the TCS (Alternatively cut through the middle of the foil where the plastic meets the metal). Then you can separate the lower section of the TCS into two (we now have three parts Top - printed circuit, Centre - Magnets and shift lock, & The Lower Metal with the raise / lower motor & shift lock solenoid.
Note; Careful not to pull out the main shaft as parts may fly out and we need them all in to work
155713
Firstly, I tested the shift lock solenoid itself, It’s rated at 9 volts and I measured the resistance at 6.1 Ohms, using a 9 volt battery is was clear that my solenoid works.

155714

155715

From here I inspected the printed circuit board with a microscope looking for damage or cracked solder joints, I found nothing, everything looked good except for a slight burn mark on a 1 Ohm resistor. I decided to re-solder several components next to the solenoid connector, you will need a good quality, small tip, high temperature soldering iron (mine was set at 420°C+), most solders used on modern circuits have little or no lead which makes them harder to work with.
155716
Circuit Board
155717
Burned Resistor marked 1R00 and area of interest.

After re soldering my TCS has worked continuously and I still have my lock release if needed.

Disclaimer
This is what I did for my issue and it worked for me, this will not fix other issues and will not fix a broken transmission, you will void any warranty on this unit by performing this repair, as always you undertake this repair at your own risk.

[Odysseyman]

Another HUGE thank you Marc. @Mattblack59bus


Today I got in the car and drove forward a few metres to my driveway in order to hook up my camper to have a couple of nights away for my birthday. On attempting to selecting reverse the rotary knob would not move. Foolishly I switched off the car, leaving it where it was blocking my wife’s car so for a while there both cars were out of service.

Thanks to having seen this thread I searched for it, spent two hours faffing around, and we were back on the road. As a temporary fix I lassoed the shift lock with a small cable tie, pulled it back and jammed the cable tie in place once the 4 screws holding the unit together were screwed tight.

We’re now happily camped next to a lovely “babbling brook” - the Steavenson River - and will worry about what to do to repair the issue once we return home.

thanks again Marc.

David

[Asa]

Thanks for the instructions. Although it was meant for Disco, I've managed to do something similar for an Evoque. Few zip ties connected together and routed into the cup holder did the trick. Thanks again!

[pqd44]

Mattblack59bus, thank you for taking the time to provide such an informative post.
Following it I have repaired my gear selector which was intermittently refusing to rotate.
The resistor nearest the solenoid connector had a dry joint, as per your post.
After cleaning the resistor and the solder pad on the pcb, I soldered the resistor. I have since had no repeat of the gear selection problem.

[Dave Townsend]

Fantastic solution to this problem. I used some 50lb braid as the pull cord instead of the zip ties but same thing. It got me out of trouble again.
Dave

[ATH]

I suppose waiting for little faults like this to happen is what some describe as making ownership of LR product's exciting.... :)
AlanH.

[PhilLR415]

[QUOTE=Mattblack59bus;2952745]P176C-11 Transmission range selector lock control error – General electrical Failure – circuit short to ground

[After re soldering my TCS has worked continuously and I still have my lock release if needed.]


Hi everyone who may come across this post..

You should find if you follow exactly what is written already in this post that it will work perfectly!
I did so and it has not failed on me once in the last month, when it was actually failing on me every 2nd day before that!

I've posted what I did with lots of pictures and some videos in the Facebook aulro group.
Link below ⬇️ A big thank you again to Marc Jones 👍

AULRO (Australian Landy Owners Group) (https://www.facebook.com/groups/aulro/permalink/10159375410791186/'mibextid=Nif5oz)

[Jonescalhoun87]

Thank you for your service, Author. This was very helpful!

[lampiesl]

Last week Friday I parked my Discovery Sport at the hardware store. When leaving the vehicle started in park and the gear knob rose but would not turn, remaining stuck in park. I reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, but the same issue persisted so I called the towing company for assistance getting my vehicle home.

My local landy specialist told me it was probably the transmission control switch (TCS) and that they often saw similar failures. They recommended that I phone Land Rover and buy a new unit for my model.

I decided to investigate online first and found this incredibly useful thread.

I removed the TCS and opened the unit. Tested the solenoid and confirmed it was still functional - this is possible without opening the bottom part of the unit that is stuck with the silver tape and sticky glue. You could simply attach power (9V DC) to the two blue contact wires and confirm that the plastic lock mechanism moves to the unlocked position.

When inspecting the PC board I confirmed that the same resistors on my board were brown from heat over time, so I reflowed the solder on all the joints close to the solenoid connection area.

I re-installed the TCS, re-connected the battery and I am now able to move the gear knob out of park and into gear. As good as new - Thank you so much!

[Mikeypie221]

Worked for me, had an issue with the pins on board to hold the connector were not soldiered properly, open connection.

Came out of the pub after lunch with wife and kids and couldnt move the knob out of park. Noticed no click while depressing brake pedal, checked brake lights working, but obviously the car also started. Went on here found this post, I must admit the photos are not that clear. From the quality it took me quite some time to actually figure out which was the release piece, I admit I thought the piece in question was part of the case when peaking in so didn't press on it.

Anyway, got a lift with a made who was leaving pub, went home for the ute with tools. Came back jigged up the zippy tie and took it home. Etc etc. couldn't see an issue with resistors. Issue was solder, no connection between pins and resistors. But visibly lacking solder on pins.

All back together and working now. Left the cable in obviously just in case there's another issue.

Thanks for the write up! I used to be a mechanic so the pictures were really what I was looking for. Good to know what's inside before you try taking things apart.