2.7 TDV6 D3/4 timing belt service parts shopping list

[twr7cx]

Anyone able to confirm the parts required for doing the 7 year/168,000km timing belt replacement on the 2.7L TDV6 engine found in the D3 and early D4's?

So far on the list:

LR016655 front timing belt kit which looks to include a replacement tensioner pulley and bolt.

LR019115 rear timing belt kit for fuel injection system with tensioner pulley and bolt. I think there is a different part number for earlier pre-2009 or 2007 vehicles?

LR076782 Oil pump with included gasket - as there was a period of faulty units without the webbing reinforcement that would fail where the timing belt tension mounted. Looks like this is the most up to date part number that has superseded earlier versions.

Is a replacement front crankshaft oil seal (1102415) needed as well or does the front crank seal come prefitted into the new replacement oil pump?

What about replacement camshaft oil seals (1311318) when changing the timing belt? Worth replacing these while already in there or best to leave undisturbed if they're not leaking? Are four required as it's a dual overhead camshaft V configuration engine?

Should the water pump (LR009324) be replaced while in there or is that fairly accessible any time?

According to Roverworks < Discovery 3/4 Range Rover Sport TDV6 Timing Belt (http://www.roverworks.com.au/news/discovery-34-range-rover-sport-tdv6-timing-belt/) > the plastic water coolant neck in the valley and idler pulleys should be replaced too, which are:
1311306 timing belt idler pulley - 2x required.
and LR073372 I think for the plastic water outlet - anyone able to please confirm?

PQS500370 accessories/serpintine belt

[101RRS]

If you have a 2012 2.7 you do not need to do the oil pump etc as a matter of course, unless you suspect there is an issue.

For other parts buy what you can from Ford as they are about 1/3 the price of LR for the exact same parts. I am sure many LR sellers buy the oil pumps from Ford at the Ford Trade price and sell at a LR retail price.

Garry

[PerthDisco]

Oil pump has been mentioned is worth replacing in any case all models due to maintaining oil pressure levels and minimising crank failure ( one theory). Believe comes with new seal.

Yes - water pump - cheap and easy access.

Also replace plastic coolant pipe junction piece top of valley at this time. Is a known failure point. Is also a plastic elbow on the block less talked about but hard to access.

What I never hear about is the front accessory belt. When do you change that and tensioner?

[twr7cx]

If you have a 2012 2.7 you do not need to do the oil pump etc as a matter of course, unless you suspect there is an issue.

Noted, but I still plan to.



For other parts buy what you can from Ford as they are about 1/3 the price of LR for the exact same parts. I am sure many LR sellers buy the oil pumps from Ford at the Ford Trade price and sell at a LR retail price.

Cheers. I’ll get quotes on the parts from the two local Ford dealers too then.
I believe the genuine Ford part number for the oil pump is 4R8Z6600A.
There's some big price variation on the Land Rover unit (LR076782) from Britpart at GBP 54.99, OEM at GBP 158.33 to genuine Land Rover at GBP 210.00. Looks like genuine Ford units can be purchased for cheaper as Jefferson Ford are advertising the genuine Ford 4R8Z6600A unit < Genuine Ford Oil Engine Pump Assembly For Territory Sz/Sz Mkii | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Ford-Oil-Engine-Pump-Assembly-For-Territory-Sz-Sz-Mkii/223524261772?hash=item340b158f8c:g:wTYAAOSwmNRdRNU a) > for AUD $179.78. My two local dealers will hopefully be even better.
On a side note, the second of the two pictures on < LR076782 OEM FoMoCo Oil Pump 2.7& 3.0TDV6 C2Z31680 LR123716 (https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr076782-oem-fomoco-oil-pump-27-30tdv6-c2z31680-lr123716-922725-p.asp) > shows where to apply the sealant in 3mm diameter when installing. Also mentions "...it also no longer requires dowels that were fitted at the base.".

Out of interest I also found the following part numbers in the Dayco and Gates catalogues - both brands that I’d be happy to use, but especially Dayco as it seems to be the OEM supplier.

Dayco:
6PK1975 belt multi
DP736 water pump
KTBA288 - front timing belt kit that includes the belt, tensioner (but doesn’t list the new bolt being included like the Land Rover kits, so may needed Land Rover part LR006027 too as I assume that there is a reason Land Rover include it to replace, not worth the risk not doing to save $2.00 only), the two idler pulleys and KS135 seal kit consisting of four seals (both of which that the Land Rover kit doesn’t include).
KTBA290 - rear timing kit which includes the belt, tension and a KS143 seal kit consisting of 1 seal.
then there KTBA278 which includes all of the above items for both the front and rear timing belt kits less KS143 seal kit for the rear timing belt.

Gates:
6PK1975 accessories belt
TCK1616A front only kit which includes belt, idler pulleys, tensioner and bolt. No seals included.
Or TCK1616B front and rear kit which adds the rear belt and tensioner pulley
GOSK1616 for the front timing belt oil seals.


Also replace plastic coolant pipe junction piece top of valley at this time. Is a known failure point. Is also a plastic elbow on the block less talked about but hard to access.

Do you have any more details on this? Part number or pictures of where it is and how to do it? Does the timing belt etc need to be removed in order to access this or can it be done at any time?



What I never hear about is the front accessory belt. When do you change that and tensioner?

Fairly easy item to replace at any time, so no significant benefits in cost or time saving by needing to do it with the timing belt. Fairly low risk if it fails - would be inconvenient as can no longer drive but is an easy roadside repair. Given the cheap price and that I assume it needs to be removed out of the way in order to do the timing belt I’ll replace it then regardless.


What special tools are required?
gates list GAT4965 Timing Tool Kit being recommended when the Ford kits are looked up.
some of the UK sites list parts Britpart DA1120 Island 4X4 QP1924100 Laser 4273 or YF62233.
According to Timing Belt Tools for Ford Territory Diesel 2.7L V6 SZ 2011 to 2017 Flywheel Pin | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Timing-Belt-Tools-for-Ford-Territory-Diesel-2-7L-V6-SZ-2011-to-2017-Flywheel-Pin/254426720884?hash=item3b3d03aa74:g:FlEAAOSwI59aHlO Q) the tool required for the Ford Territory and Land Rover applications differ as “...
the Ford Territory which requires a larger Flexplate Tool.”

[PerthDisco]

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Coolant appearing to leak down the back of the engine (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/coolant-appearing-leak-back-engine-152035.html)

[twr7cx]

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Coolant appearing to leak down the back of the engine (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/coolant-appearing-leak-back-engine-152035.html)

That's the LR073372 I mentioned in my first post. I have no personal experience on it's location but assumed it to be at the front of the engine. The thread you've linked above also indicates this as the author is surprised that it didn't leak down the front and believed that to be due to the angle of the V engine configuration's valley or angle of the engine mounted in the vehicle.

[loanrangie]

Unless you have very high mileage replacing the pump is not needed.

[twr7cx]

Unless you have very high mileage replacing the pump is not needed.

To which pump do you refer? Water/coolant or engine oil?

[twr7cx]

Oil pump has been mentioned is worth replacing in any case all models due to maintaining oil pressure levels and minimising crank failure ( one theory). Believe comes with new seal.

According to discussion on Disco3 forum < DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - 2.7 TDV6 - replacement oil pump - front crankshaft oil seal (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/27-tdv6-replacement-oil-pump-front-crankshaft-oil-seal-185064.html) >, new front crankshaft oil seal doesn't come with the new oil pump as it needs to be fitted after the pump is fitted. In addition:


There is a tool for making sure the seal is fitted correctly but most people use a socket. The seal has to sit 1mm back from the casing and if it's the new ptfe type needs to be left for 4hours before turning the engine.

It's also been suggested that a replacement front crankshaft nose bolt is needed as it's a Torque To Yield type. This should be part number LR013377. Shown as 6A345 in the parts diagram.

https://i.ibb.co/fSqcZHf/Screen-Shot-2019-11-28-at-6-27-36-am.png (https://ibb.co/fSqcZHf)


I'm also unsure about the 2x 1346539 (tel:1346539) oil seals? Listed in the parts diagram as 7G281.

https://i.ibb.co/V2kv0Mv/Screen-Shot-2019-11-28-at-6-26-44-am.png (https://ibb.co/V2kv0Mv)


In regards to the other oil seals, their guidance is not to replace any unless they're leaking as you don't really go near them ref < DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - 2.7 TDV6 timing belt change - any oil seals to replace? (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/27-tdv6-timing-belt-change-oil-seals-replace-185063.html) >.


And I haven't found any other plastic outlets for replacing at the same time. Of note is that according to < https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/27-tdv6-plastic-water-coolant-neck-valley-part-numbe-185065.html > “...Landrover don't supply the o ring that fits it to the fuel cooler, (only a complete cooler!). You can get the o ring from Citroen/Peugeot, part number 198171”.
According to < https://spareto.com/oe/198171 > that Citroen/Peugeot part number is interchangeable with Bosch 1 280 210 761 (tel:1 280 210 761).
And according to < https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-1280210761-O-Ring/dp/B004YZRMJE > ASIN B004YZRMJE.
Its listed as an injector o-ring seal part. According to < https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Fuel-Injection-Seal-Set-of-4-Original-Bosch-1-280-210-761-/173597961845?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTab s_0 > they’re 18.55mm x 3.5mm - an odd size so not sure if the local bearing shop would be able to match it up. Come in packs of four if the Bosch variant is bought.
More discussion on this available at:
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/water-connection-outlet-o-ring-part-number-176285.html
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/tale-2-discos-176345.html
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/tdv6-water-distribution-housing-179093.html?highlight=198171

[loanrangie]

To which pump do you refer? Water/coolant or engine oil?

Oil, water i would and will do on mine.

[twr7cx]

Oil, water i would and will do on mine.

I have a ticking noise on initial start up. From what I’ve read others have had success resolving this with a new oil pump. It’s worth a try and I’m happy to do so.

[DiscoJeffster]

I have a ticking noise on initial start up. From what I’ve read others have had success resolving this with a new oil pump. It’s worth a try and I’m happy to do so.

Ticking noise is two possibilities. As the engine pressure comes up there is a ticking for about a second. This is normal and is normally the hydraulic lash adjusters coming up to pressure and taking up the slack. This won’t change with a new pump. Mine has a new pump and still operates like that. It’s normal.
The other one is the fan clutch noise which is a clicking sound. That’s also normal.

[Grappler]

If you dont already have one you will need the special tools to lock the flywheel and pulleys in position

Here is a link to a cheap knockoff set that will do the job
https://www.ebay.com/p/18022656136?iid=264273911388&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264273911388&targetid=541454150372&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=21137&poi=&campaignid=6470552628&mkgroupid=81274342767&rlsatarget=aud-762207186714:pla-541454150372&abcId=1139336&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI146X_rSM5gIVx0XVCh0XeQGzEAQYAiAB EgLDqfD_BwE

There is another tool to lock the flywheel whilst releasing and torquing the crank bolt (cant remember torque spec but it up there). Ive just used the positioning tool to lock the flywheel when dealing with the crank bolt but take a deep breathe and hope it holds!

[eddy]

You may be lucky but be prepared to remove the plating on the fly wheel locking tool.Just takes time sanding it off to enable clearance into the bell housing.

[Grappler]

You may be lucky but be prepared to remove the plating on the fly wheel locking tool.Just takes time sanding it off to enable clearance into the bell housing.

Yes thats right I had to machine mine to fit. And taking the starter motor out was the hardest part of the whole job, for me

[twr7cx]

Thought I'd finish off this thread with a consolidated purchase list that might benefit others in the future. Note that these are the part numbers suited for my MY12 D4 2.7 TDV6, most should be the same for all vehicles with the 2.7L Lion TDV6 motor other than a couple that I've noted where I'm aware of/can recall:

LR016655 front timing belt kit
LR019115 rear timing belt kit
2x 1311306 timing belt idler pulleys
Kits: Some retailers offer their own put together kits inclusive of all the above. These may be cheaper than buying items separately but check that decent brands are used within the kit - I'd suggest staying with Dayco the OEM provider.
Optional: 2x LR004104 idler pulleys bolts to suit 2x 1311306 timing belt idler pulleys - not necessary to replace though as not one-use only and only torqued to 25Nm.

Tools for the job:

QP1924100 flywheel locking and camshaft timing kit - there are other part number versions, but I found this to be the most price competitive through Island4x4. Note that apparently the Ford Territory kits are not fully compatible as one or two of the tool items are sized differently.
Laser LZ6124 Viscous Fan spanner set. There are cheaper sets available through eBay etc. but their quality looks much inferior.


If replacing the oil pump (e.g. for vehicles with the earlier faulty design that's known to cause catastrophic failure):
LR076782 oil pump - although it looks to me that the locally available Ford (FoMoCo) version (part number 4R8Z6600A) is cheaper to source even compared to importing from the UK, and given that the motor was fitted to the Territory after finishing in the D4's it's likely to be the most up to date design.
1102415 crankshaft oil seal - fitted to the oil pump after the oil pump is fitted to the block.

LR013377 M16 crankshaft bolt - TTY (stretch type) so a replacement is necessary. Note that earlier model motors (with the weaker crank) used a smaller M14 version with the same thread pitch which as such will thread in but not tighten properly. You can identify the correct part by your VIN:
LR002458 14mm x 70 7A000001 to 9A501901
LR013377 16mm x 70 9A501901 onwards
Note that if the 10th character is a letter rather than a number then you've got a later motor and the M16 is suitable.

Optional additional maintenance tasks:

PQS500370 serpentine belt accessories
LR009324 water pump

LR073372 plastic water outlet. Note only includes two out of the three o-rings for replacement. The third is not available individually from Land Rover. Citroen/Peugeot part number 198171 is a correct fit and match though. Or Tombie advises that BS211 in viton material is suitable too (see https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/275751-water-exchange-thermostat-unit-replacement-2.html for discussion).
Fitting can require disturbance of the throttle body and EGR which means you then need these additional parts too:
Throttle body Rear seal - 1316152 - two required
Throttle body Front seal LR008353
EGR pipe clip 1311338

There's a pretty comprehensive guide on DISCO3 on how to do the job. Parts are on the way for me to be done during the Christmas holidays.

[beetroot]

Can anyone recommend places that are selling the Ford oil pumps?
Jefferson Ford in Victoria seems to be selling online and through Ebay, but wont ship to me in New Zealand.

The local Ford dealers want to charge over $600 for this oil pump, so would like to try get one from Australia if possible.

[twr7cx]

Can anyone recommend places that are selling the Ford oil pumps?
Jefferson Ford in Victoria seems to be selling online and through Ebay, but wont ship to me in New Zealand.

The local Ford dealers want to charge over $600 for this oil pump, so would like to try get one from Australia if possible.

Have you thought about just buying the Land Rover one then from the UK? Might work out cheaper and easier to do so.

Otherwise you could call various Ford dealers in Australia, speak to their spare parts department and as them if they'll ship over to you - might find however that they're not allowed to as might have a geographical barrier put on them to protect the NZ dealers.