Lazarus 2A Ambulance

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I have been working on my 2A Land Rover Ex-Army Ambulance "Lazarus" in the late afternoons - when it sort of gets cooler... just a wee bit. Lazarus' ARN was 112-211.

I have been getting the car ready for me to be able to take the engine out. Today it was "engine out day". It is amazing that no matter how many times you check for attached wires, there are still a couple lurking there hiding. Ten minutes later ... the engine was clear of the chassis and hanging by the crane hook - well clear of everything. After I swivelled the crane boom, the engine was in the back of the trailer and being towed to my shed and some nice shade.

It seems from the photograph that the space between the clutch pressure plate and the bell housing was some creature's home. So now I am a home wrecker.

With all the mud guards, winch and radiator panels removed, the extent of the rust in the front of the chassis was revealed in all its glory.

Since I have a new engine stand I have not used it before. I have now worked out that I have to go and buy four long threaded high tensile bolts to fit the engine to the stand. No great loss. While the engine is still hooked up to the trailer crane, I will go for a wee trip out into the paddock and spray liberal amounts of degreaser on the engine. That might save some mess in the shed.

Next task after that is to remove the very rusty firewall --- bulkhead; and then have a crack at lifting up the ambulance module. This will give me a stripped down rolling chassis and I can see if there are any more rusty surprises.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I had a bit of a clean-up around Lazarus and bagged and tagged various nuts bolts and other miscellaneous detritus.

I then embarked on removing the multitudinous variety and numbers of nuts and bolts that hold the seat box down.

The lowest pillar captive nuts on both sides of the seat box were nasty little sods. The passenger side one broke off. The driver's side due to its proximity to the build up gunk at the bottom of the pillar where it holds moisture was rusty. Soon as I put some pressure on the bolt head the rusty "captive" part of the scheme decided to liberate itself. Of course there is no way to access the now non-captive part. So I had to drill into the head and persuade the bolt head off with a cold chisel and engineer's hammer.

The lower seat belt anchor bolts were fun too.

Tomorrow - off comes the seat box - it seems to be glued onto the frame of the body. Once the seat box is off it will give me access to the gear box and I will get that ready to be lifted out.

Next... remove the steering column and then undo all the bolts to remove the top windscreen bolts so the bulkhead can come out as well. The bulkhead has more holes than Swiss cheese. Actually I think Swiss cheese is more structurally sound than Lazarus' current rusty bulkhead. Well, it is really part-there-of . I do have a second hand bulkhead to replace it with.

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

A useful tip for these difficult bolts and nuts is to think ahead and soak daily in penetrating oil for at least a week before trying to undo them. Alas, this is not always practical.

[Lionelgee]

A useful tip for these difficult bolts and nuts is to think ahead and soak daily in penetrating oil for at least a week before trying to undo them. Alas, this is not always practical.

Hello John,

Thanks for the tip - John.

As things worked out the face of the pillar where the nut broke off had actually sheared or rusted off. If I needed to I could have easily have had access to the captive nut area with a set of vise-grips. However, the face of the pillar where the captive nut decided to liberate itself is in pristine condition - so there was no vise-grip access. It was just pre-ordained to be stubborn and cantankerous.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I got a bit of a surprise yesterday when I took the engine out of Lazarus. When I was underneath the vehicle I checked out the gear box cross member. It was unmodified. I have a number of ex-Army Series III and they all have the modified bolted on gear box cross member. This allows the gear box to lowered down to remove it.

Not that it made much difference that this modifcation had not been done on Lazarus, I was still going to remove the seat box anyway.

Does anyone have a Series 2A ex-Army Land Rover which had the gear box cross member modified in service? Or was it just the Series IIIs?

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

Not exactly an example of a modified one - my ex-army 2a does not have the modified crossmember. And while I can't claim to have surveyed a representative selection of 2as, I have never seen one that was modified in service, which does suggest that the mod was restricted to Series 3.

[numpty]

I had a SWB Series 11A GS (1964) which had the modified gearbox cross member. Whether this was modified in service or after, I don't know.

My current 11A Gunbuggy (1963) does not.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Thanks Numpty and John for the information about 2A gear box cross members.

I took a change in tack - I started work on Lazarus early this morning. I have packed my tools up at 9:30 am because it just got too hot in the paddock where Lazarus is parked.

What have I achieved with hours of work? I have the seat box off. Apparently due to the wide and flat floor of the ambulance module there is extra reinforcement at the back of the seat box. Two lengths of "Top Hat" channel held by four screws. This channel goes from the front face of the seat box - all the way underneath seat box and extends under the ambulance module by 6 centimetres. There are four straight slot mushroom heads with hex nuts. I am not sure what size the hex nuts were. A 1/2 inch socket was too large. The immediate size in my the socket sets smaller than 1/2 inch is 7/16 and it was too small. I tried my Metric set and the nut was in between 11 - 12 mm. So out came the vise-grips to hold the nuts.

I will be replacing these screws with hex head bolts and hex nuts.

The other thing was the caulking the manufacturers used. Grey in colour and in the years since the body was made, the stuff was still strong. I had to cut through the caulking and scrape it off both faces of the metal with a hacksaw blade. I tried to just cut down the centre of the bead; however, soon as the caulking touched itself it regained tack strength. It also sticks to anything that it comes in contact with it.


Once the seat box was off I checked the chassis for rust and I did not find any nasty surprises. Fingers crossed that more closer inspection proves otherwise.

Now for the rusty bulkhead to come off sometime this afternoon - when it gets cooler.

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

Likely the nut is Whitworth. For this vehicle a set of Whitworth spanners is very necessary. While the Series 2 introduced UNF and AF spanners, there are a lot of bits inherited from Series 1 using Whitworth or BSF (some continued to the end of S3 production).

Good quality Whitworth spanners can often be found for almost nothing in Op Shops and garage sales, or, if you are really feeling flu$h, can be ordered in from any respectable tool supplier.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Thanks John,

I do have some Whitworth spanners and sockets - somewhere in my shed. Did I mention that I bought a some pallet racking and steel shelves. Trouble is I have not had the time to sort everything out yet. With it being the middle of summer now working in a tin shed during the day is not much fun. Just a tad hot and humid!

Anyway, the photo shows the state of things at the end of play today. One bulkhead removed. One seat box removed.

Tomorrow will be the day the gear box comes out.

After the gear box is out, I will be taking a break for a while. This is because there will be some pondering to do while I sort the ambulance module removal and storage options out. It will be a Rubik's cube exercise sorting out what can go where to free up a rolling chassis. I know that I do not want the ambulance module on top of one of my trailers. It would tie the trailer up for what could be an extended period of time.

Who knows - I might even sort my shed out during that time! Playing hide and seek trying to find stuff I have put somewhere is wearing very - very thin.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

The gear box is out. While it was hanging off the trailer crane I scrapped off a lot of gunk from the casing. It then received two rounds of degreasing and pressure cleaning.

The disconcerting thing was that well before I started to clean the gear box it was hanging at an angle and there was a stream of water flowing out of it for a couple of minutes.

Underneath all the build up of grease dirt and other detritus on both the engine and the gear box was a green and black based camouflage paint scheme! The whole body and the chassis are painted using the same scheme. I was surprised that the engine and gear box received the same paint job.

Well next challenge is lifting the body up and rolling away the chassis.

Kind regards
Lionel

[ezyrama]

Hi Lionel

If it helps, I used oven cleaner on Ernies gearbox and chassis, with a 2700psi petrol gernie. Worked a treat!. Just wear eye protection and thick rubber gloves.

Cheers Ian

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I have been spending the cool time in the evenings - before the mozzies descend - by stripping off Lazarus' bulkhead.

It just has a tad of rust in it. The WD40 has its job cut out for it with the bolts and screws. Yes John, the bulkhead is positioned in the house yard where I spray the bolts and screws as I am walking past them to get to the paddock gate - where Lazarus is parked... in the paddock.

Does anyone have a spare cover for a 2A 1963 windscreen wiper motor as shown in the photo and a couple of the little arms that drive the wiper arms? New units are available via eBay and the internet; however, I would prefer to keep to original parts if possible.

Also, can the parcel shelf come off the 2A bulkhead by just removing the spot welds? The bottom of my Toyota powered 2A shorty has the bottom of the parcel shelf rusted out. It may be easier to just remove the parcel shelf and working on it off the car than trying to cut the rust out and put in new plates it in-situ.

Kind regards
Lionel

[S3ute]

Lionel,

Hello from Brisbane.

I’m giving away a few bits left over from my truck’s ongoing renovation that might be of use to yours. Steering box stuff, shock absorbers etc.

They’re listed in the markets sub-section over at the SLOw site.

Cheers,

Neil

[ezyrama]

Hello All,

I have been spending the cool time in the evenings - before the mozzies descend - by stripping off Lazarus' bulkhead.

It just has a tad of rust in it. The WD40 has its job cut out for it with the bolts and screws. Yes John, the bulkhead is positioned in the house yard where I spray the bolts and screws as I am walking past them to get to the paddock gate - where Lazarus is parked... in the paddock.

Does anyone have a spare cover for a 2A 1963 windscreen wiper motor as shown in the photo and a couple of the little arms that drive the wiper arms? New units are available via eBay and the internet; however, I would prefer to keep to original parts if possible.

Also, can the parcel shelf come off the 2A bulkhead by just removing the spot welds? The bottom of my Toyota powered 2A shorty has the bottom of the parcel shelf rusted out. It may be easier to just remove the parcel shelf and working on it off the car than trying to cut the rust out and put in new plates it in-situ.

Kind regards
Lionel

Hi Lionel

I may still have Ernie's old ones at home. I'll have a look tonight. They motors were cooked and bits were missing, so I replaced them with new ones out of Whitworth's marine. If they are there you are welcome to them.

Ian

[Lionelgee]

Hi Lionel

I may still have Ernie's old ones at home. I'll have a look tonight. They motors were cooked and bits were missing, so I replaced them with new ones out of Whitworth's marine. If they are there you are welcome to them.

Ian

Hello Ian,

Thank you very much for the offer of your old windscreen wiper motors. Let me know if you found them?

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

After doing some extensive research through old AULRO threads and other online sources; plus a book, I set about dismantling Lazarus' steering relay. With the amount of force reputed to be behind the spring inside the relay - it was done with a significant degree of trepidation.

This was not helped by all the bolt heads in the caps being round off so Imperial, Whitworth and Metric sockets and spanners did not fit. One bolt had to be persuaded with a small cold chisel and an engineer's hammer. Then filed down to two flat faces so I could get a grip of the remnants of the bolt head with a small shifting spanner. I kept two other bolts in the bottom cap while I was attempting to remove the stubborn sod of a bolt.

I wound up just using the shifting spanner with all the top cap bolt heads as they were even more butchered by previous owners.

I was very surprised when all the bottom cap bolts were off that there was not a stream of rusty water coming out. The relay had ceased. When Pop058 and I went to pick Lazarus up the whole steering system was ceased solid. Not a cigarette paper thickness of movement anywhere in the steering system. Anyway, nothing came out of the bottom of the relay.

As recommended by Land Rover I grabbed a bag to catch the spring. I selected a woven nylon pigeon grain seed bag and used two cable ties to secure it to the relay. The relay was held in a vice and I gingerly tapped the top of the steering relay shaft with a copper headed hammer. After a while the spring released and shot out into the waiting bag. Gee the spring sure does have some force stored up - I did not think the bag was going to hold up and I would have spring bouncing off the side wall of the shed. However, the bag held up fine. I had to use a drift to get the relay shaft out of the casing.

I took all the parts out of the bag and had a close look inside the relay.

There is a very strong thick coating of grease over everything. No sign of rust staining or pitting anywhere. Just a great layer of sticky smelly grease. Not a drop of oil. However, not enough grease to think the relay had been fully packed with grease instead of filled with oil. So all in all I am pretty happy about today's proceedings.

I wanted to disassemble the Lazarus' relay just to see what I had to work with. I am very happy that all I have to do is get a consumable parts kit for the relay. Plus of course a new set of bolts!

I prepared a thread about Series Steering Boxes and Steering Relays that is available under "Series Land Rovers" from this link. Series Steering Box and Steering Relay Rebuild Videos (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/276574-series-steering-box-steering-relay-rebuild-videos-post2967916.html#post2967916)

I hope the link is of use to people. I attached some photographs of today's work.

All the large parts are going to be stored in a luggage-type vacuum bag. Along with the smaller parts that will be going into zip lock sandwich bags. The parts will stay stored like that until I am ready to reassemble everything again. That could be quite a while. The coating of grease will be staying on the parts.

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

In case you don't already know it, the bolts are not standard - they have smaller than standard heads.

[Lionelgee]

In case you don't already know it, the bolts are not standard - they have smaller than standard heads.

Hello John,

When your message came in I was just looking at my Australian Army Repair Parts Scale (1988).
The bolts are described as...

Bolt Machine BSF Steel Hex HD 1/4 in. by 0.600 in LG (R544337). In Group PC Title Steering Relay page 208.

I am not sure what HD and LG refer to?

Online a number of Land Rover suppliers identify the part number just as 544337

What size spanner or socket would be the correct fit?

It is now too hot and humid to work in the tin shed. I have retreated to inside the house and a pedestal fan.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello John and All,

Too hot to do anything outside except duck out to check the approximate fit of spanner sizes and then come inside to the computer.

I did venture out and checked a number of other steering relays that are still in-situ in different chassis 2A and Series 3. I can confirm that Lazarus' bolt heads were all rounded off well and truly before I worked on them. As you may have guessed I also went on a hunt and managed to track down my set of "King Dick" Whitworth ring spanners and a no-name brand of Whitworth sockets.

This is what I found out about the Steering Relay Cap bolt they are just a smidgeon smaller than 11/32 AF and 1/8 Whitworth. With 8 mm being far too small. According to this Wrench Size And Conversion Table website accessed 22nd January 2020 from, Wrench Size And Conversion Table (http://www.csgnetwork.com/wrenchsizetable.html)

I

Inches
Millimetres
Spanner


0.315
8
8 mm


0.344

11/32 AF; 1/8 Wworth


0.354
9
9 mm









As the Repair Scales describe the bolt as "Bolt Machine BSF Steel" Or correct me if I am wrong British Standard Fine. Where the website Convert,compare all Imperial tool,nut,bolt and spanner sizes to metric. (http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/tools/conversion%20charts.htm) states that Whitworth thread is coarser than a BSF of the same diameter, but the same spanners are used on both ranges,and are often marked with both Whitworth and BSF sizes,. My Whitworth set of spanners and sockets has its smallest size at 1/8 of an inch - however this is still too big. Kevin C Bacon does not show anything smaller on his conversion table than 1/8 Whitworth.

No wonder they went to Metric! I was born in 1962. I was never taught the Imperial system at school.

To find something smaller than the 1/8 Whitworth but bigger than 8 mm is a 2 BA spanner...

0.315 inches = 8mm
0.324 inches = 2 BA
0.344 inches = 11/32 AF and 1/8 Whitworth (Sourced from Convert,compare all Imperial tool,nut,bolt and spanner sizes to metric. (http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/tools/conversion%20charts.htm))

Exactly half way smaller between 0.344 inches (too big) and 0.315 inches (too small) is 0.3295‬ inches. According to the chart - the closest spanner size to this is 0.324 inches or a 2 BA

While this may work on paper or in the electrons does this mean that the Series 2A and Series 3 Steering Relay End Cap Bolts fit a 2 BA spanner?
I am not optimistic about the 2 BA spanner fitting somehow!

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

I'm cooking dinner, so not going to check right now, but, if I remember, I'll go and check. I seem to remember I actually have a spanner that fits, but I don't rember which!

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I found another site about threads and spanners. Antarmike's post (Reply #8) describes that ....
An 1/8" BSW 3/16 BSF has an opening of 8.64mm a 2BA bolt or nut is 8.23mm.

Accessed 22nd January 2020 from, Spanners & Sockets... Advice please (http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php'topic=17282.0)

I have a Metric Vernier Calliper. It is stored somewhere... I bought some 2nd hand pallet racking and industrial shelving. Everything was taken off the old storage and placed temporarily into the new storage system. However, since the move onto the new shelves/racks things have remained unsorted. Who knows where the fancy measuring stick is lurking now? It does make life interesting sometimes

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

Checked this morning - my 2BA spanner fits the heads on the swivel bolts on my 2A.

[Lionelgee]

Checked this morning - my 2BA spanner fits the heads on the swivel bolts on my 2A.

Hello John,

Thanks for checking the size of the spanner on the swivel bolts. Is this the same size as the bolts on the steering relay end caps?

Is the filler bolt a different size than the other bolts on the end cap?

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

Sorry, that is what I meant. Getting a bit hectic. I was thinking about the fire. Now at the stage of putting suitcases in the car.

[Lionelgee]

Sorry, that is what I meant. Getting a bit hectic. I was thinking about the fire. Now at the stage of putting suitcases in the car.

Hello John,

Stay safe and I hope everything goes well for you. Take care.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I gave the Whitworth spanners and sockets a good working out today. I dissected Lazarus's gear box and transfer case. There are a couple of things different between the 2A and the Series III. The clutch hydraulics and their linkages seem to be more involved on the 2A.

My biggest issue was separating parts that had some form of sealer used. A grip like Hercules on a very good day. The camouflage paint was still clear on the gear box and transfer cast so the gasket goop might have been some form of "Army Special".

When I first pulled the gear box out of the chassis I noticed that while the box was tilted water was flowing out freely. Lazarus spent a number of years with previous owners parked out in the elements. I also water pressure cleaned the gear box so I was concerned about more water getting inside the box. Once the top covers came off the sight was not a pretty one. ... More later ... The dinner bell just sounded ...

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

... some time later....

When I started today I could not select any gears. The gear stick travelled freely across the neutral gates but would not engage any gear. When I grabbed the primary pinion it would not rotate Nor could I feel the main shaft or the lay shaft rotate. The gear box was stuck solid. When the covers came off I saw rusty looking crud filling up the space between each of the gear teeth. I figured that I might as well keep going with the dissection to see what the conditions actually were beyond the first impression.

Once I had undone the drain plug heaps of water poured out - and far from clean or healthy looking oil leached out. Plus there was a really rank smell. After I had the bell housing off I ran my fingers through the sediment on the bottom of the main gear box housing. A lot of what can only be described as flakes came out. Plus all the teeth were full of some form of sediment and a coating of grease.

As I pulled sprockets off and cleaned the teeth none had rust, no chipped teeth. No signs of wear on the teeth.

When I had everything apart from the cluster in the transfer case I poured the collection of oil and gunk through a sieve that has a magnetic base. What I thought were rust flakes were not metallic. When I rubbed the flakes between my fingers it seemed like something like shellac flakes. Yes when the oil is rubbed between my fingers it does feel like there is a fine metallic grit in the oil. It is like some insect had gained access into the gearbox and then tried to colonise it with flaky petitions between the gear teeth.

I worked on the gear box while it was on the trailer as it was parked out in the sunshine. I did start taking pictures however my phone started to get very hot to the touch. So no photos were taken of what the gears looked like before I cleaned off the gunk built up between the gear teeth.

There bearings seem to be shot though. The primary pinion and the main shaft did come loose. The third/forth gear synchroniser does not feel or look that special though. Plus, the primary pinion bearing and the bearings in the housing that support the main shaft are really crusty and really rough to spin. They feel like they have gravel in them. They were ceased before. They may just need a clean - teehee.

I am really surprised so far that the gears are not a rusty mess. There are no broken synchro springs or bits and pieces of gear tooth in the oil sludge. Everything will get cleaned - inspected more closely and bagged and tagged.

Oh as this is the first time I have worked on a gear box every thing that looks okay could be through my ignorance not as it seems to me. My apologies if I have not used the correct terminology relating to gear boxes.

I must write that I am getting increasingly more suspicious if the last owner before me ever drove the vehicle. I would not be surprised if the vehicle was not "parked up" when he bought it and it was towed around their yard - before the steering ceased.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I had a squiz online last night hunting for named bearings for a Series 2A and I found a UK Land Rover thread in LandyZone. The information may be out of date by now - it was posted from New Zealand member, Jackual_NZ in September 2009.

Constant mesh pinon X1 RLS12/C3
Gearbox front seal (suffix H on) X1 35x50x10SLR
Primary pinion & Mainshaft Seal (sufix H on) X2 35x50x10SLR
Mainshaft Front X1 RA156 (NDH)
Mainshaft Rear X1 6307/C3
Mainshaft Rear Seal X1 193-300-50SLR
Layshaft Front (Suffix A) X1 RMS6/C2
Layshaft Front (Suffix B) X1 6305/C3
Output Shaft Seal (F&R to '78) X2 162-250-50SSL
Output Shaft Seal (F&R '78 on) X2 162-250-50DLR
Speedo Pinion Seal X1 062-100-18SLR

Accessed 29th January from Series 3 Gear Box bearing part numbers | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/series-3-gear-box-bearing-part-numbers.85627/#post-860538)

If you know any more parts numbers for 2A 1963 gear box bearings and seals feel free to add them into the thread. Thank you

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Can someone confirm if the Primary Pinion Shaft Lock Nut - Part Number Part No 213416 has a standard thread - as in counter clockwise to undo?

Apart from buying the Special Tool HNJ5000000- Land Rover Series Gearbox Primary Pinion Nut Tool, Or making one... what other ways is suitable for removal of this delightful piece of metal?

I tried a cold chisel and hammer ... then I started to wonder about the handedness of the thread?

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

How can I identify what suffix gear box that was fitted to Lazarus made in 1963. The serial numbers I found are just too removable and exchangeable for comfort.

I found a number stamped into the top cover of Lazarus' gear box. It is 25142397 B. The "B" suggests the gear box is a Suffix "B" .


I also found a number on the transfer case HDA2 on the top and 528675 on the bottom line. My concern is that the top cover that holds the gear selecting rods and the transfer case are both removable items.

Lazarus is an Army Ambulance - then had decades of civilian usage, so there have been plenty of opportunities to exchange parts that may not be true to stamped code numbers located on highly exchangeable casings.

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

The gearbox should be suffix 'B' from your information, but as you point out this does not necessarily mean all the parts in it are (and that includes the transfer case).

I would order parts based on the number, but when ordering, ensure you can swap for the correct part if the ones you get are different from what you are replacing!

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I am trying to loosen a Series 2A Primary Pinion Locknut that was factory fitted to gear boxes from 1948-71.

Am I correct in thinking that Primary Pinion Locknut Part Number 213416 is a Left-Hand Thread? As in turning the nut clock-wise loosens it and following the more frequent approach of turning the nut anti-clockwise actually tightens the nut?

I have attached a photograph of the wee beastie

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

To quote from the manual

"3. Remove the special LEFT HAND THREAD nut from the primary pinion."

[Lionelgee]

To quote from the manual

"3. Remove the special LEFT HAND THREAD nut from the primary pinion."

Hello John,

Thank you for the confirmation about the thread being left-handed. Even quoted from the set of manuals. My set is still missing in action .

I will set aside some time to track them down in the near future. I now have added impetus to do so; as it is best to attempt to avoid costly mistakes... Around about $88 plus postage in Australia for a new lock nut according to the online parts sites. Then to make one of the "special tools" out of a sacrificial impact socket

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

That particular nut, on the input gear, the manual actually shows a hammer and punch as the special tool! And an old clutch plate to hold the shaft.

[Lionelgee]

That particular nut, on the input gear, the manual actually shows a hammer and punch as the special tool! And an old clutch plate to hold the shaft.

Hello John,

The manual showing a hammer and punch is very interesting.

On my previous searches on the internet for information about the handedness of the thread on the Primary Pinion Locknut ... and to find a replacement nut... I found this: Part Number HNJ5000000 - Land Rover Series Gearbox Primary Pinion Nut Tool. They are the engineering mob who also make replacement locknuts Manufactured in the UK from AISI4340 (EN24T) to a higher quality than the genuine Land Rover part. Accessed 1st of February 2020 from: https://www.hnjengineering.co.uk/pages/products/213416/hnj5000000_4.jpg

I like how they put arrows showing the direction of turn to untighten the nut! Doh! (Homer Simpson)

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

After some going down false trails and some rummaging around.... I am reunited with my set of Series II & IIA Land-Rover Workshop Manual Part One and Part Two. 1st Edition March 1969.

I was given the Workshop Manuals when I bought my Series III 109 "Rebus". They were taken out of the cabin where they were stored by the previous owner on the passenger side floor. I parked Rebus outside and it rained. I was not familiar with the waterproof properties of Series Land Rovers... or lack thereof. Subsequently, the manuals got wet and were left to dry out for a while before being stored in a safe place....noooooooo!

Flicking through the pages I found tell-tale signs of on-the-job usage. Grotty finger prints. The most evidently well used pages were...

Page 6-C Gearbox Section C Land Rover and Page 7-C with some SKF bearing numbers written in using blue pen.

Now I am just looking for the pages that mention the left-hand thread on the lock nut for the primary pinion shaft.

Yes, I got the said lock nut for the primary pinion shaft off this afternoon.

Therefore, I finished today with a couple of wins. 1) getting the lock nut off and 2) finding the manuals.

Well back to flicking through the Gearbox Section of the manuals to gain more insight. Also, to reduce the posting of dumb questions.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello John,

Page 64-C Gearbox Section C Land-Rover... as you described Figure C1-140. Removing nut from Primary Pinion. Point 3 Remove the special LEFT HAND THREAD nut from the primary pinion....

I also noticed at the top of each section there is a list of Workshop Hand Tools.

When I looked earlier at the Transfer Box page 31-C (Book 2) it lists a 2BA spanner. Now to find the steering relay section ... and as you found out with your kindly searching for a spanner the Workshop Manual page 35G (Book 2) it confirms a 2 BA open ended spanner is required. On page 38G it has Figure G1-85 a spring beam style of fish scale is shown checking the resistance of the steering relay via the upper arm.

Thank you for your patience and assistance John.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

After getting some longer bolts and washers to fit and pack the mounting bolts, I have Lazarus' engine finally on an engine stand. The engine is now out of the weather and is sitting in the shed. I wonder what will be revealed?

Lazarus was stored outside for decades by the previous owners. When I pulled out the dipstick it had a coating of a yoghurt like substance. So water may have gotten into the engine and been sitting inside it for who knows how long.

Now to start the tear down and rebuild. I wonder how long and how much money it will take to have the engine back again as a complete unit - ready for installation back into the chassis?

It is my first engine rebuild - am I a bit hesitant about it? I sure am! Fingers crossed!

Kind regards
Lionel