10 Years

[mowog]

Its been a long since I logged in and posted.

I have owned the D4 for 10 years now. She has just over 200,000k on her now.

Mods that were done
18' GOE Rims I was on the original group buy
Kaymar Rear Bar
Long Range Fuel Tank
Land Rover Bull Bar
LRBT Bluetooth audio module
Mitchell Brothers Tow Hitch

It has been serviced trough out its life including Transmission oil and filter.

Things that have gone wrong
The RH intake manifold split so while we were at it both sides were done and the coolant cross over as well.
The AC Compressor failed all fixed now.

The front control arm bushings and ball joints as well the steering rack ends were done.

She has been a great car and I have no plans to sell her. The only real thing that bothers me about it is the failed crankshaft lottery.
If that happens then car is basically scrap value. Its a pity Land Rover won't deal with this problem.

157079

[Fatso]

In much the same situation with my 2007 TD.6 Sport , New front diff , lower control arms , new compressor and alternator , and various other bits and pieces . valuation is just about at rock bottom , and if crank shaft goes it becomes a garden gnome .

No plans to sell or trade as serves its purpose well and will drive untill what ever , just because the valuation is low dose not mean its caput only has 168k , still a great drive . :ohyes:

[Warrzone]

Well done.
My 2010 D4 is at the 200k mark also.
I've only owned it for 40k and 3 years.
unfortunately I've done
Timing belts,
LCAs front
HP fuel pump $$
Alternator
and the air compressor is getting very tired


What is a LRBT Bluetooth audio module? does it enable bluetooth audio to a low spec radio? Its the only thing i wish my D4 had. the AUX isn't the same.

[disco4now]

I remember when you posted up at 4 years. time flies.

Mines 10 years in two weeks. 204K now. I have had it from new. About a third towing 3.5 tonne.

Its never left me stranded but have done all the usual things.

LCAs

Front wheel bearings 120K

Replaced both turbos when timing belts done, but think real issue was warped exhaust manifold, which was replaced later. 150K

Water inlet

Transmission rebuilt 180K

Both inlet manifolds replaced. (did both when one started to leak)

Oil cooler replaced at same time to fix oil leak.

AC compressor last week, AC is good again now.

Still original starter, alternator and compressor. (did replace the drier at about 4 years)

Front oil seal has not popped out.

Crank shaft still good.

[BobD]

My 2010 is in a similar position. Too good to scrap but not worth much to sell. Mine is at 290,000 hard km of rough road touring and towing for most of its life as well as a long stint as daily drive around town.

My AC compressor has just failed for the second time and they want $6000 plus to fix it as it needs everything replaced due to contamination, including the TX valve, which apparently requires dash removal to change. At this stage we will just keep it without an air con, but I may decide to fix it at some time in the future.

Mine was good up till around 200,000, when everything started going wrong, AC compressor, manifolds, turbos, radiator, transfer case, rear tail shaft intermediate bearing, hand brake, a few shocks front and rear, several LCA's etc etc. Transmission and engine is still fine, although it has had many transmission oil changes as it does get very hot when towing if you look at the temps on an ODBII. The temp gauge never moves, however.

There are still no issues with electronics or body and no squeaks or rattles anywhere, other than the LCA's which need replacing again. The EPB failed for a second time a year or two ago and won't be replaced this time. Cleaning and adjustment didn't fix it.

We mainly use it for serious off roading and as a spare car (we have three LR's and my son has two so we need a spare!!) and use the TDV6 Vogue for towing and touring and a fair bit of off roading, these days.

[mowog]

Well done.

What is a LRBT Bluetooth audio module? does it enable bluetooth audio to a low spec radio? Its the only thing i wish my D4 had. the AUX isn't the same.

YouTube (https://youtu.be/mt401QvXX0I)

[mowog]

I remember when you posted up at 4 years. time flies.





Thats possibly the last time I posted

[Blackrex]

Mine was good up till around 200,000, when everything started going wrong, AC compressor, manifolds, turbos, radiator, transfer case, rear tail shaft intermediate bearing, hand brake, a few shocks front and rear, several LCA's etc etc. Transmission and engine is still fine, although it has had many transmission oil changes as it does get very hot when towing if you look at the temps on an ODBII. The temp gauge never moves, however.



Mine was similar, hit 7 years and 200k and things started to fail/break, with the last major item being the complete failure of the Primary turbo compressor wheel that also damaged the secondary, so that was two new turbo's plus incidentals. I don't currently have working A/C or radio either. The clock spring in the steering column is playing up as well, with the buttons misaligning on occasion.

Work done has been;
Both inlet manifolds after one failed
LCA's (multiple times)
EPB replaced
Compressor replaced (warranty)
Rear upper tailgate release
Coolant level sensor and tank (replacement is giving the same errors again)

[DiscoJeffster]

Mine was similar, hit 7 years and 200k and things started to fail/break, with the last major item being the complete failure of the Primary turbo compressor wheel that also damaged the secondary, so that was two new turbo's plus incidentals. I don't currently have working A/C or radio either. The clock spring in the steering column is playing up as well, with the buttons misaligning on occasion.

Work done has been;
Both inlet manifolds after one failed
LCA's (multiple times)
EPB replaced
Compressor replaced (warranty)
Rear upper tailgate release
Coolant level sensor and tank (replacement is giving the same errors again)

Buttons mis aligning isn’t necessarily the clock spring per say. I had that issue. Volume up was down etc. Fix was battery disconnect, remove airbag, unclip steering wheel switch connectors and use a contact cleaner to clean the plug male and female ends. Put it back together again. Took longer to make a small tool to remove the airbag than the entire fix.

My AC was fixed with a new displacement valve in the compressor rather than a whole new compressor (but I obviously don’t know why yours isn’t working).

[fredd63]

If you want to hang onto the vehicle, and eliminate the crankshaft lottery, would it be worth changing the bearings to those with anti-rotation tags?

[BobD]

My AC was fixed with a new displacement valve in the compressor rather than a whole new compressor (but I obviously don’t know why yours isn’t working).

Mine had a new compressor which was good for a couple of years until it started the long delay to start cooling and then it started reducing cooling to mildly cool in hot weather, but cooled properly in cooler weather. I had a new valve installed, which didn't fix the problem and when I got it properly checked out a few weeks ago the gas was contaminated, requiring the major rebuild to fix properly. The other 2010 D4 that was being fixed at the same time as mine had exactly the same issue, a new compressor and then new valve with the problem persisting. Apparently they also did another one in the same week with the same issues.

Hopefully your new valve does the trick for a long time and saves you a heap of money.

My RH rear door open sensor has now got an intermittent fault, causing the alarm to go off randomly. The bonnet open sensor is also faulty but I have disconnected that thinking it would fix the alarm. However, no such luck. They are the first electrical issues other than the rear hatch catch to go wrong. I am now driving with no EPB, no air con and I can't lock the car. That is how it will stay for the foreseeable future!!

[DiscoJeffster]

I shouldn’t laugh but lol

Yes many compressors these days are pinching themselves and all the aluminium and seal gets pumped though the system contaminating it. VAG group renowned for it

[PeterOZ]

Interesting read. My old D3 TDV6 will be 13 in August, 259,161 km so far.

Has had HP fuel pump replaced under warranty.
Compressor replaced by the new version under warranty
Numerous front LCA over the years
Offside front wheel bearing
CV joints
alternator
timing belts - engine destroyed itself not long after so do the maths on that. Low km Territory engine fitted @ $13k though that included new silicon intercooler hoses, coolant Y manifold, new washer tank and new radiator core & aircon re-gas
Brakes and rotors, will be upgrading it to the V8 rotors as soon as the parts arrive.
Transmission flushed and steel pan with new filter under warranty by LR dealer
I have have since done a triple flush, new filter, new valve body seals, pump bridge seal and mechatronic plug seal myself

Transmission will need to be reconditioned and new new torque converter at some point but trying to delay that as long as possible.
Front diff has developed a whine so that will need work
Needs new airstruts as it still has originals - will do that myself
I replaced sway bar bushes and trailing links myself 2 years ago.

It is worth nothing to sell but cost to buy a new vehicle if I could find something comparable is prohibitive, so I will keep it going for a few more years as I like the vehicle and it serves my needs well.