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View Full Version : Tips on removing axle nut ?



Oohsam
8th February 2020, 11:58 AM
Hey guys,
I'm trying to undo the front axle nut. I've broken my good 3/4 inch breaker bar, sheared the socket head right off. Luckily its a replaceable part - but wasn't impressed.
Have also sheared my good kingchrome torque wrench - was pretty skeptical using it but it was worth a shot.
My impact air gun has also had no luck - it's pretty old so may be fairly weak.

I had a 1meter pipe over my breaker bar when it sheared clean off. The axle nut didn't so much as bat an eyelid.

I'm considering either going to get a new air gun that can do up to 570NM or a longer breaker bar...not too sure but dont really want to buy both just to take this thing off.
Manual says its done up to 320nm so maybe the air gun is the better way forward.

Any assitance appreciated.

DieselLSE
8th February 2020, 12:00 PM
Air rattle gun. I can lend you mine if you want. I'm in Brighton.

PerthDisco
8th February 2020, 12:50 PM
Hey guys,
I'm trying to undo the front axle nut. I've broken my good 3/4 inch breaker bar, sheared the socket head right off. Luckily its a replaceable part - but wasn't impressed.
Have also sheared my good kingchrome torque wrench - was pretty skeptical using it but it was worth a shot.
My impact air gun has also had no luck - it's pretty old so may be fairly weak.

I had a 1meter pipe over my breaker bar when it sheared clean off. The axle nut didn't so much as bat an eyelid.

I'm considering either going to get a new air gun that can do up to 570NM or a longer breaker bar...not too sure but dont really want to buy both just to take this thing off.
Manual says its done up to 320nm so maybe the air gun is the better way forward.

Any assitance appreciated.

Have you released the lock? It’s at the top of the nut gets tapped in to lock the nut. You need to bend it out before undoing. It is clearly effective.

Crack it with tyre on the ground like wheel nuts. I did it on hoist using a bar between the wheel bolts and was not too hard.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/f1eed8d29eb434b3233bdb9cee4ba866.jpg

Lots of videos on YouTube cover this to replace wheel bearings and LCAs

Oohsam
8th February 2020, 12:56 PM
Yeah I have bent the crimp back- have checked it about a dozen times to make sure its clear.

I might take up the offer to borrow the rattle gun - will send you a pm !

I've never seen a nut this tight- have never failed to undo a nut with my now deceased breaker bar. He lived a good life.

PerthDisco
8th February 2020, 12:58 PM
Yeah I have bent the crimp back- have checked it about a dozen times to make sure its clear.

I might take up the offer to borrow the rattle gun - will send you a pm !

I've never seen a nut this tight- have never failed to undo a nut with my now deceased breaker bar. He lived a good life.

The torque setting has been lowered from 300s to 200s for this but now someone will confirm exactly.

INter674
8th February 2020, 01:08 PM
Drill it and chisel it apart..easiest way of getting seized nuts off.

Blknight.aus
8th February 2020, 02:10 PM
If you're replacing the bearings just heat it up.

failing that hit it with a mix of or any of ATF DEXIII diesel brake fluid and let it sit for a few hours..

then hit it by swinging on it with a breaker bar in both updo and undo direction till it cracks free.

3/4 air rattle gun with a good compressor is going to be your best bet.

you can also try root drilling near an apex and chiselling it apart but I'd leave that as a last resort as failure means a long an carefull session with a diegrinder.

4bee
8th February 2020, 03:00 PM
May have been put on with Loctite? ? ?

Heat it up & then try. Just my thought, but breaking everything in sight means it is a tough Cookie. Could it somehow be a LH Thread?

PhilipA
8th February 2020, 03:10 PM
Have you injected some good quality penetrating fluid into the slot so that it permeates the thread?

Do that and leave it for several hours.

Also my Ryobi 18V rattle gun is much stronger than my air rattle gun.

Regard sPhilipA

Oohsam
8th February 2020, 03:16 PM
I got it off guys !!
My cousin came around with a Bosch cordless rattle gun. Huge thing.
I laughed and told him to bugger off with his cordless tools.


A few rattles and it spun loose.
Checked the specs - it's got 400nm !!!

Jeez I'm glad it's off. Might need to get a new nut.
Is this the right one ?
Looks different.

https://www.allfourx4.com.au/Front-or-Rear-Axle-Hub-Retaining-Nut-suitable-for-Discovery-and-LR024151

justinc
8th February 2020, 03:34 PM
That nut is for D4, it is also a totally different thread. All D3 and RRS up to 2009 IIRC are a finer thread . All D4 '09/'10 onward have the coarser thread pitch and the same nut as in the pic.

4bee
8th February 2020, 03:52 PM
So, a LR Bodge job?[bigsad]

Could you be needing a new Axle Stub as well to get the correct thread now?

DiscoJeffster
8th February 2020, 04:05 PM
So, a LR Bodge job?[bigsad]

Could you be needing a new Axle Stub as well to get the correct thread now?

[emoji848] Just buy the correct nut for the vehicle [emoji2369]

coopers1969
8th February 2020, 04:07 PM
Funny I am doing the exact same thing but didn’t have any issue first the rattle gun then the breaker bar. My axle nut didn’t have the notch put in it. Not good but the replacement nut has will have to check the other side. The only issue I had was I snapped one of the 4 Bolts that hold the hub on. I am very lucky that I brought 4 extra bolts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/2a6b58b453b2660daa63747d75a1cfa4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/bf6f2553a17012bb0f13b05d8e0e62b4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200208/b32cc2c6564542aebd9957691fa0c59e.jpg

Oohsam
10th February 2020, 11:08 AM
Nice work man! bugger about the bolts - good work.
I have new hubs but I will be changing mine later when they get in worse condition.

My list is :

Lower ball joints (pressed them out)
Upper control arm
Steering rack
Front pads
rear discs
rearpads

My new hubs didnt' come with an axle nut, so I just had to buy one. I can re-use mine but would prefer to have a fresh one.

The Upper control arm cameout much easier than I thought, the front bolt looked hard, but was actually quite easy.
I bought a brand new control arm, for 90 dollars but found the bushings are only 20 dollars each. I should have just replaced the bushings, but i'll re-furbish thiscontrol arm and keep it as a spare.

Geez we are such a wasteful society!

PhilipA
10th February 2020, 12:59 PM
The Upper control arm cameout much easier than I thought, the front bolt looked hard, but was actually quite easy.
I bought a brand new control arm, for 90 dollars but found the bushings are only 20 dollars each. I should have just replaced the bushings, but i'll re-furbish thiscontrol arm and keep it as a spare.

I was reading a back issue of LRO yesterday where the workshop article was changing the front arms.
The mechanic said that he always fitted new arms as the bush holes in the arms tend to get distorted and this makes new bushes chew out fast.

Regards PhilipA

Oohsam
10th February 2020, 01:22 PM
ahh makes sense - lots of momentum on a 2.3 tonn beast coming to a sudden stop.