D3 battery

[PeterOZ]

right oh I'll try to put a post up with hope I wont get berated again....

The battery in my old D3 is well past its use by date and only keeps going with weekly top ups via my 5A CTEK charger and 35km commute to and from work.

Get regular "Special programs not available" and recentlyI get "transmission fault, reduced traction" faults. Latter can be cleared by doing clutch sensor and range sensor calibration routines, drives fine with no fault until I stop and re-start at which point I am surmising the battery volts go too low and upset the little ones and zeros in the ECUs.

Current battery is a Bosch of 800CCA I think it is, its about 7 years old so have got my moneys worth.
I am looking to go to a spec of battery with similiar CCA of original battery, 900CCA.

Question for the wise: Can a AGM be used in a D3? I don't think there is anything in the CCF about letting it know its an AGM like the D4 has.
Not sure if a D3 voltage regulator is designed to be able to regulate and charge an AGM style battery??


I'm looking at the Delkor AGM (DIN85LH) 12V 900cca Battery

Not cheap at around $509.

Or they have a Calcium version of same specs ~ $290

Apart from price any pros / cons of either type?

Look forward to positive responses.
thanks in advance.
P

[Tombie]

Yes, an AGM is suitable and is what LR replaced them with.

Have a look at SSB batteries.

[PeterOZ]

cheers

on my list for next pay day

[Aussie Jeepster]

cheers

on my list for next pay day

Now you just have to decide on which battery!!!!![bigsmile1]

There is a Century battery on fleabay at $474, but my next replacement (fairly soon) will be an SSB

[Aussie Jeepster]

I've started to research a replacement starting battery for my 2006 D3 petrol.
It currently has a Fiamm Titanium Pro L4B 85P, which I believe is a calcium battery.157883
I'm looking at the SSB DryCell HVT-50D AGM. but the photos I see of it do not have the recessed battery terminals that mine has got. Is it going to fit, or should I be looking for a DIN77,85 or88 type battery, like the Century on ebay at $474???
What DIN size is the right size??? Yes, I looked in the manual, and it doesn't say - just says replace with the same type!
And when I plugged in my iiD tool, it does not show any particular type of battery fitted. There are options for battery 01 to battery 09, but nothing about calcium, gel, or lead acid.
Any ideas from anyone????

[DiscoJeffster]

I've started to research a replacement starting battery for my 2006 D3 petrol.
It currently has a Fiamm Titanium Pro L4B 85P, which I believe is a calcium battery.157883
I'm looking at the SSB DryCell HVT-50D AGM. but the photos I see of it do not have the recessed battery terminals that mine has got. Is it going to fit, or should I be looking for a DIN77,85 or88 type battery, like the Century on ebay at $474???
What DIN size is the right size??? Yes, I looked in the manual, and it doesn't say - just says replace with the same type!
And when I plugged in my iiD tool, it does not show any particular type of battery fitted. There are options for battery 01 to battery 09, but nothing about calcium, gel, or lead acid.
Any ideas from anyone????

The HVT-50D is an aux battery, not cranking.

Use this one for a starter battery if you want an AGM.


SS88Ti High Performance AGM Stop Start Battery (https://superstart.com.au/ss88ti-high-performance-agm-stop-start-battery.html)

[PhilipA]

I read recently that SSB is a Delkor brand and made in USA.

regards PhilipA

[Aussie Jeepster]

Thanks DJ - that was what I was trying to find!
What about battery type "in the system"? - Do I need to tell the car what is fitted via the iiD tool, or just rip out the old one, and drop in the new one?
And if I do need to tell it what is fitted, what's the trick to find how to tell it?
alan

[DiscoJeffster]

Thanks DJ - that was what I was trying to find!
What about battery type "in the system"? - Do I need to tell the car what is fitted via the iiD tool, or just rip out the old one, and drop in the new one?
And if I do need to tell it what is fitted, what's the trick to find how to tell it?
alan

D3 right? It doesn’t have a battery management system so isn’t smart enough to know. Just put it in and you’re good to go.

[Aussie Jeepster]

D3 right? It doesn’t have a battery management system so isn’t smart enough to know. Just put it in and you’re good to go.

Thanks - sometimes it nice not to be smart!!!!!

[Narangga]

right oh I'll try to put a post up with hope I wont get berated again....

The battery in my old D3 is well past its use by date and only keeps going with weekly top ups via my 5A CTEK charger and 35km commute to and from work.

Get regular "Special programs not available" and recentlyI get "transmission fault, reduced traction" faults. Latter can be cleared by doing clutch sensor and range sensor calibration routines, drives fine with no fault until I stop and re-start at which point I am surmising the battery volts go too low and upset the little ones and zeros in the ECUs.

Current battery is a Bosch of 800CCA I think it is, its about 7 years old so have got my moneys worth.
I am looking to go to a spec of battery with similiar CCA of original battery, 900CCA.

Question for the wise: Can a AGM be used in a D3? I don't think there is anything in the CCF about letting it know its an AGM like the D4 has.
Not sure if a D3 voltage regulator is designed to be able to regulate and charge an AGM style battery??


I'm looking at the Delkor AGM (DIN85LH) 12V 900cca Battery

Not cheap at around $509.

Or they have a Calcium version of same specs ~ $290

Apart from price any pros / cons of either type?

Look forward to positive responses.
thanks in advance.
P

I have had the calcium version sine August 2017 (2.5 years) and it's still going strong. We do quite a bit of start-stop inside 10 mins too. It was recommended to me by Roversmith. I decided on the calcium rather than AGM due to price. From my experience :BigThumb:

[BradC]

Just to be different I used/use a Supercharge MF88h. Was about $230 on sale. The first one lasted, so I kept going with the same one.

[disco4now]

Just to be different I used/use a Supercharge MF88h. Was about $230 on sale. The first one lasted, so I kept going with the same one.

In my D4 I am on second Supercharge MF88h. First one lasted three years at about $230 delivered , then went for a $500+ VARTA Silver which dropped a cell at 2years. Now on another Supercharge MF88h. $264 this time.
Gerry

[DiscoJeffster]

I’m on 38 months on my Varta G14 AGM. BMS says it’s able to charge to a maximum 86% calculated SOC. I charge it at least once a month for 12-24 hours to give it a top up and try and keep it healthy.

[kero]

right oh I'll try to put a post up with hope I wont get berated again....

The battery in my old D3 is well past its use by date and only keeps going with weekly top ups via my 5A CTEK charger and 35km commute to and from work.

Get regular "Special programs not available" and recentlyI get "transmission fault, reduced traction" faults. Latter can be cleared by doing clutch sensor and range sensor calibration routines, drives fine with no fault until I stop and re-start at which point I am surmising the battery volts go too low and upset the little ones and zeros in the ECUs.

Current battery is a Bosch of 800CCA I think it is, its about 7 years old so have got my moneys worth.
I am looking to go to a spec of battery with similiar CCA of original battery, 900CCA.

Question for the wise: Can a AGM be used in a D3? I don't think there is anything in the CCF about letting it know its an AGM like the D4 has.
Not sure if a D3 voltage regulator is designed to be able to regulate and charge an AGM style battery??


I'm looking at the Delkor AGM (DIN85LH) 12V 900cca Battery

Not cheap at around $509.

Or they have a Calcium version of same specs ~ $290

Apart from price any pros / cons of either type?

Look forward to positive responses.
thanks in advance.
P
I bought the same battery less than 12 months ago in Parkes (NSW) for $350 included the reset.

[Tombie]

I bought the same battery less than 12 months ago in Parkes (NSW) for $350 included the reset.

Who in Parkes has the LR capable tool?

[INter674]

You know I just don't get some of these fancy expensive batteries!

Example..i just bought a Century 1000cca tractor battery 500mmx220mmx220mm for $380..made in Brissy too.

Last one lasted 10 years and you can imagine the torrid treatment a tractor battery gets.

So what's so wrong with a simiar basic battery design for a car?

Place I bought it from only deals in relatively basic reliable batteries and laughed when I asked about spiral wound and some other costly brands/designs. Yuasa/Century gell mat was the most sophisticated design they had of which he said they sell heaps with no probs at all.

Keep it simple perhaps😎

[Tombie]

Your tractor likely has a requirement of:
Start tractor
Recharge
Sit still for ages
Repeat

The current draw and loads a modern vehicle demands are much higher and sporadic. Unfortunately a simple lead plate design can’t cut it.

[101RRS]

My $250 Supercharge allrounder battery runs my RRS no issues, so no need for high price batteries - some people do0seem to get carried away on this subject.

Garry

[BradC]

Last one lasted 10 years and you can imagine the torrid treatment a tractor battery gets.

So what's so wrong with a simiar basic battery design for a car?

As Tombie said, it's a little more complex.

The Supercharge MF88h is somewhere around 100Ah and 900CCA (two completely different things).

My last one was replaced as while we were away camping, my young lad kept getting into and out of the car. Each time he opened the door it woke the vehicle up and a freshly woken D3 draws 10's of amps. A couple of these cycles and it would no longer start the car. When it was charged up there was no issues.

I did a capacity and load test and while it was still > 700CCA it was down to some ~21Ah capacity. So below a quarter of it's new capacity. Still had no issues in the car provided there wasn't a lot of use between stop and start.

Older tractors don't tend to have the higher electrical load, and I'm sure if I didn't have the 3 year old wanting to "drive" the car so often I'd probably have managed nearly another 2 years from the battery.

Modern batteries need both low internal resistance at low temperatures (high CCA) *and* high "RC" (Reserve Capacity or another way of expressing the Ah capacity but different). Traditional batteries with high cranking amps have lots of thin plates, and batteries with high capacity have fewer thick plates. Modern batteries are a complex trade-off between the two and things like glass mat or spiral wound are an attempt to allow thick plates that don't eject their coating when massive loads are put on them while still being fit for purpose and not shaken to pieces with rough physical treatment. In there is also the chemistry which affects voltage and the ability to accept charge (charging rate). Older "simple" batteries just can't be recharged as fast as the modern chemistry. You can force more current through them, but the lead only converts at a limited rate, the rest is dissipated as heat and dissociating the electrolyte.

A tractor is a pretty benign environment by comparison unless you are talking about the relatively new "all singing and dancing, electric automated marvels".

It's complicated.

[INter674]

Wish it were that simple..this tractor has ecus just like a car plus many...many electrical devices on it eg shuttle valves..electric spool valves..solonoids etc etc plus ac...dozen lights and so on. On some days it will be stopped and started dozens of times ...much more thsn a car ...and the engine is over 6 litres with huge loading on the starter.

I had Optima in our D1 and D2 and replaced them with much cheaper old school batteries. I never missed the costly Optimas. We did compitions too involving heaps of heavy winching and never had a failure.

BTW I mentioned lithium bats to the store owner and was pleased with his frank analysis which largely amounted to ..they are just not there yet in terms of pricing and reliability. They are for the future no doubt.

[PeterOZ]

ok took the plunge

SSB Ss88Ti AGM
1180CCA
92 A/H

$354 delivered from fleabay including a discount code.

Time to retire my 7 or 8 year old Bocsh [happycry] [bigwhistle]

[DiscoClax]

ok took the plunge

SSB Ss88Ti AGM
1180CCA
92 A/H

Time to retire my 7 or 8 year old Bosch [happycry] [bigwhistle]

That's exactly what I bought and also replaced a couple of years ago in my RRS. Hasn't missed a beat since :)

[PeterOZ]

That's exactly what I bought and also replaced a couple of years ago in my RRS. Hasn't missed a beat since :)


Good to know. Hopefully I will no longer get "special programs unavailable" & "transmission fault, reduced traction" & HDC faults once I put new battery in.

[DiscoClax]

Good to know. Hopefully I will no longer get "special programs unavailable" & "transmission fault, reduced traction" & HDC faults once I put new battery in.

I did mine as preventative when I got my s/h RRS. The Bosch S4 (?) was tired and well past its prime. Load testing confirmed that. I like to have a decent (AGM) starting battery and the SSBs ticked all the boxes.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Arrived today. Going on the CTek for 48 hours, then fitting on Saturday.
The old Fiamm has lasted 8 years, but I guess petrol engines are not as hard on batteries as diesel ones.
The Traxide has kept it going for the last few weeks.
157984

[Tombie]

Arrived today. Going on the CTek for 48 hours, then fitting on Saturday.
The old Fiamm has lasted 8 years, but I guess petrol engines are not as hard on batteries as diesel ones.
The Traxide has kept it going for the last few weeks.
157984

More a case of the driving you do.

In my case; Living on Eyre Peninsula means long drives regularly for me, this keeps the battery healthier than lots of little stops and starts.

I went 7 years on the factory unit.

[INter674]

Factory unit on our D4 petrol lasted 5.5 years and 85k klms..according to the service records...mainly hwy shortish runs to and from place of work.. no additional accessories...no major towing either..only one big trip to the big isl early in its life b 4 it was traded on a LC200 diesel in Dubbo😐

[PeterOZ]

what is people's thought on using a megapulse with these batteries? any good or just snake oil?

[PhilipA]

I think I read somewhere that a Megapulse is no good on anAGM.
I have one on my wet 100 ah Century and it seems to have bought it back to 90plus %.

funny my 2.5 year old Optima Blue was reading 60% but has gone up to 97% by shifting the earths to the large terminal.
regards PhilipA

[Aussie Jeepster]

Out with the old, and in with the new!
Didn't realise an extra 2" made such a difference!!!!!!!
Also disappointed to see furry corrosion under the battery - hit it with baking soda and cleaned it all up.
Sure turns over faster than it did this morning.
158022158023

[Bulletman]

ok took the plunge

SSB Ss88Ti AGM
1180CCA
92 A/H

$354 delivered from fleabay including a discount code.

Time to retire my 7 or 8 year old Bocsh [happycry] [bigwhistle]

Do you have a link or name, sounds a lot cheaper than I can find.

Thanks Bulletman

[DiscoJeffster]

Do you have a link or name, sounds a lot cheaper than I can find.

Thanks Bulletman

eBay

[shack]

ok took the plunge

SSB Ss88Ti AGM
1180CCA
92 A/H

$354 delivered from fleabay including a discount code.

Time to retire my 7 or 8 year old Bocsh [happycry] [bigwhistle]Arrived a bit late to the party on this one.

We have just had this exact battery die.
42 month warranty and dear as poison.

I got it pretty right as had a mate In the trade.

Died after 2 years, now has 332 cca ( I may chase warranty) but have chosen to replace with the battery my brother is running and has had a better run with, an mf88h supercharge. Approx $150/$200 cheaper

One issue I've considered with running an AGM start battery on a D3, is that they charge at about 15.5 volts for some time after start, and most AGM specs suggest not to charge over 14.4 or 14.6.
Optima specs used to state 13.8, that had now changed took 15 volts.

Someone will no doubt chime in and point out that when that spec is listed, they are referring to a battery charger which runs for hrs, not an alternator that pushes up for 20 minutes and then scales back.

I take this on board but also question the damage that continual day after day running like this could cause.

For instance, our school run is 20 minutes return, so five days a week our battery gets charged at 15.5 volts then turned off.
I don't know if this is the same on the arvo run but I definitely see it In the morning when I do the run.

Is this detrimental?

Most likely we just got a faulty battery, but it's been in the back of my mind since I put the SSB in.

So Who knows...

Cheers
James

[BradC]

One issue I've considered with running an AGM start battery on a D3, is that they charge at about 15.5 volts for some time after start, and most AGM specs suggest not to charge over 14.4 or 14.6.

I see that as the setpoint in the IID tool but I've never seen more than 14.4 on the car. Both as real ECU measured voltage and with a meter. I always thought the commanded setpoint was fantasy.

in fact my mf88 specs 14.8 and I've never seen the car hit that, so every couple of months i put a power supply on it just to bring it up for a while.

[shack]

I see that as the setpoint in the IID tool but I've never seen more than 14.4 on the car. Both as real ECU measured voltage and with a meter. I always thought the commanded setpoint was fantasy.

in fact my mf88 specs 14.8 and I've never seen the car hit that, so every couple of months i put a power supply on it just to bring it up for a while.Ours will sit at 15.5 , I believe that's normal, I could be wrong, but maybe yours is "undercharging" ?

It's also possible that as we run a fridge, the alternator goes into some sort of fast charge mode to get the battery up quick when it's sensed as being a little low.

Cheers
James

[BradC]

Ours will sit at 15.5 , I believe that's normal, I could be wrong, but maybe yours is "undercharging" ?

It's also possible that as we run a fridge, the alternator goes into some sort of fast charge mode to get the battery up quick when it's sensed as being a little low.

Cheers
James

Where are you measuring that? Ours lives a sedate and unloaded life, but I still see the setpoint over 15V, it just never actually gets there.

[RANDLOVER]

I haven't played with it for a while but I'm sure I've seen 15.5V on one of those el cheapo meters that plugs into the cigarette lighter on my D3, usually just on start up.

[PeterOZ]

My D3 only gets 13.7v to 13.8V

[shack]

My D3 only gets 13.7v to 13.8VIf that is correct your alternator is on the way out unfortunately.

Cheers
James

[shack]

Where are you measuring that? Ours lives a sedate and unloaded life, but I still see the setpoint over 15V, it just never actually gets there.So that was measured by nanocom, also another obd2 device, and 2 separate auxiliary plug testers.

I can confirm though that it only ramps up to that if the starting battery is somewhat down.

This makes me think we may need to reassess our use of the fridge as it is on 24/7 and is probably causing daily 15.5 volt charge events....or we might just wear it, it's really handy...

Cheers
James

[BradC]

So that was measured by nanocom, also another obd2 device, and 2 separate auxiliary plug testers.

I can confirm though that it only ramps up to that if the starting battery is somewhat down.

This makes me think we may need to reassess our use of the fridge as it is on 24/7 and is probably causing daily 15.5 volt charge events....or we might just wear it, it's really handy...

I wonder if what you see and what I see are related to different batteries? If a battery is capable of absorbing all the potential charge an alternator can deliver (low enough internal resistance) then you'll never see voltages that high as long as the battery isn't fully charged. On the other hand, a more conventional (or aged) lead acid which can't absorb the charge as rapidly will see its terminal voltage rise as it can't sink what the alternator can deliver.

Of course the other option is my alternator isn't capable of delivering the rated current. Damn, now I'm going to have to get hold of a DC clamp with enough headroom to actually measure it.

[Bulletman]

My D3 only gets 13.7v to 13.8V

Thats all mine gets to , both the old alternator and the new 1 I fitted 2 weeks ago.

Bulletman

[PeterOZ]

If that is correct your alternator is on the way out unfortunately.

Cheers
James

its reasonably new

[shack]

its reasonably newI think your battery will gradually go flat/lose capacity(quicker than normal)..a form of shopping trolley syndrome.

Mr Drivesafe might pop along shortly and tell us all that I'm wrong!
But would be good to clear it up either way.

Cheers
James

[Aussie Jeepster]

[QUOTE=shack;2973997]Arrived a bit late to the party on this one.

One issue I've considered with running an AGM start battery on a D3, is that they charge at about 15.5 volts for some time after start, and most AGM specs suggest not to charge over 14.4 or 14.6.
Optima specs used to state 13.8, that had now changed took 15 volts.

I've never seen my D3 charge over 14.7 volts, and certainly never at 15.5.

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, and first off, other than for a very short period after starting, you should not be seeing 15+v with a Calcium/Calcium type starting battery.


In cold climate countries, during the winter months, you will see constant 15+v. We do not get that cold here, so again, constant 15+v is NOT GOOD for your cranking battery.


If you have an AGM starting battery, you should never see anything above 14.7v, even with a low battery.


Those with high operating voltages, can you try a hard reset and see if it lowers the “constant” operating voltage.


As for Optima Yellowtops, they can be fully charged with as little as 13.65v but will tolerate constant voltages up o 15.0v.


The Redtops and Bluetops can be charged with as little as 13.3v, up to 15.0v

[shack]

Hi folks, and first off, other than for a very short period after starting, you should not be seeing 15+v with a Calcium/Calcium type starting battery.


In cold climate countries, during the winter months, you will see constant 15+v. We do not get that cold here, so again, constant 15+v is NOT GOOD for your cranking battery.


If you have an AGM starting battery, you should never see anything above 14.7v, even with a low battery.


Those with high operating voltages, can you try a hard reset and see if it lowers the “constant” operating voltage.


As for Optima Yellowtops, they can be fully charged with as little as 13.65v but will tolerate constant voltages up o 15.0v.


The Redtops and Bluetops can be charged with as little as 13.3v, up to 15.0vOk, I'll keep an eye on it but it hasn't got that high since putting in the new battery.

What about the guys that are only seeing 13.8 volts, is that an issue?

And would I be correct then that the 15 volts is bad news for an AGM?

Cheers
James

[loanrangie]

I think all this talk is making my battery weak, jumped in to take kids to school and before i even cranked it i got the full gamut of dash lights and faults on the screen. Got home and both batteries at 12.5-12.6 but i when i go to start it the volts drop to 11.51 on the GAP tool, disconnected the aux. battery and got the main on charge while i went over and borrowed one from the old man.
Will see how it goes in the morning and will keep the spare in the back just in case, then i might be off down to supercharge for a new one.

[loanrangie]

I see a few use the MF88H but i also found this -

SUPERCHARGE GoldPlus MF88 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPERCHARGE-GoldPlus-MF88-/173822079847?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10)

[Tombie]

I see a few use the MF88H but i also found this -

SUPERCHARGE GoldPlus MF88 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPERCHARGE-GoldPlus-MF88-/173822079847?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10)

810 CCA
150 RC

Vs

SSB SS88TI
1180 CCA
250 RC

Big difference in stored energy [emoji6]

[drivesafe]

And would I be correct then that the 15 volts is bad news for an AGM?
The vast majority of AGM cranking batteries can not tolerate voltages greater than 14.7v, so yes you are correct.

[drivesafe]

Got home and both batteries at 12.5-12.6 but i when i go to start it the volts drop to 11.51 on the GAP tool
While the cranking voltage is fine, if the 12.5-12.6v is immediately after turning your motor off, they should have been over 13.0v.

On the other hand, if that’s the voltage of the batteries a few hours after turning the motor off, than they are near fully charged.

[shack]

810 CCA
150 RC

Vs

SSB SS88TI
1180 CCA
250 RC

Big difference in stored energy [emoji6]I agree, but I am not happy how quickly the storage capacity of that very same ssb diminished!

And there is also a premium on that extra capacity. It was impressive when new, for maybe the first 12 months.

Again I may have had a dodgy one, and we are pretty hardcore operators due to circumstance, still disappointing though, as I now realise it's been failing for many months based on how the car is now cranking.

Cheers
James

[Tombie]

Agree 100%. They’re pretty heavy on batteries, many get only around 2 years if they don’t supplement charging monthly.

Circumstances of use really can pull them down hard.

[loanrangie]

While the cranking voltage is fine, if the 12.5-12.6v is immediately after turning your motor off, they should have been over 13.0v.

On the other hand, if that’s the voltage of the batteries a few hours after turning the motor off, than they are near fully charged.

That is after sitting all day, 11.51V just turning key to ignition without cranking. Appears my multi meter has carked it so maybe those readings are wrong, 11.51V is as shown on my GAP tool.

[drivesafe]

That is after sitting all day, 11.51V just turning key to ignition without cranking. Appears my multi meter has carked it so maybe those readings are wrong, 11.51V is as shown on my GAP tool.
Not sure those readings are that reliable.

At 11.5v you would normally be right on the border of not being able to start your motor.

Did you have any trouble starting it with that voltage reading?

[DiscoMick]

I wouldn't have thought it would drop that much just after sitting for a few hours. Doesn't sound right. If mine did that I'd be concerned.

[loanrangie]

Not sure those readings are that reliable.

At 11.5v you would normally be right on the border of not being able to start your motor.

Did you have any trouble starting it with that voltage reading?

None at all but i'm getting all errors/faults normally associated with low voltage, after it stop ****ing down i swapped batteries but the one i swapped in was only 610cca and 100AH but i wanted to see how it would go. I did a quick run around the block 50-80kph and it was fine, stopped and restarted and back to the errors/faults. I have a feeling my aux. was propping up the dying main, not labels on the genuine LR Exide to tell me how old it is but it was at least 1 year old prior to my ownership so nearly 4yo old.
I dont have another correct size battery to test unless i can borrow the one out of my brothers Merc which is about the right size.

[PeterOZ]

Hi folks, and first off, other than for a very short period after starting, you should not be seeing 15+v with a Calcium/Calcium type starting battery.


In cold climate countries, during the winter months, you will see constant 15+v. We do not get that cold here, so again, constant 15+v is NOT GOOD for your cranking battery.


If you have an AGM starting battery, you should never see anything above 14.7v, even with a low battery.


Those with high operating voltages, can you try a hard reset and see if it lowers the “constant” operating voltage.


As for Optima Yellowtops, they can be fully charged with as little as 13.65v but will tolerate constant voltages up o 15.0v.


The Redtops and Bluetops can be charged with as little as 13.3v, up to 15.0v


My D3 only gets 13.7 - 13.8, I have checked that on both the Gap tool and my Fluke 77 DMM. I had thought it was low and expected around the 14 - 14.2V mark. Altenator was replaced I think 4 years back so not as new as I had thought.
Other people have said its about the right voltage??? [bighmmm]

I'll be fitting t he new AGM on the weekend after I have put it on a 48hr charge on the CTEK.

cheers
P

[DiscoMick]

Our Defender just sits rock-solid on 14.0 all the time, measured at the dashboard.

[DiscoJeffster]

Our Defender just sits rock-solid on 14.0 all the time, measured at the dashboard.

Because it doesn’t have a variable voltage alternator lol.

[shack]

Because it doesn’t have a variable voltage alternator lol.All the ones I have are quite variable! Until they stop altogether!

[loanrangie]

Dropped into Jaycar and bought a new multimeter, battery sitting on 12.71V after being on the charger all day yesterday then sitting overnight unplugged out of the car. Will do a load test tomorrow and see where we stand, don't want to replace the battery if its still good.

[loanrangie]

Dropped into Jaycar and bought a new multimeter, battery sitting on 12.71V after being on the charger all day yesterday then sitting overnight unplugged out of the car. Will do a load test tomorrow and see where we stand, don't want to replace the battery if its still good.

Did some testing this morning, with headlights on voltage dropped to 11.91, when cranking it dropped to 9.96.
So i think i can safely say its fooked, will pickup a new supercharge MF88H on Monday morning - found one for $209.

[loanrangie]

Did some more googling and read fault codes again, P0191-24 came up being fuel rail pressure sensor failure. Went out and checked and sure enough i must have knocked the sensor when i put the engine cover back on after an oil/filter change last weekend [bighmmm].

[Bulletman]

Did some testing this morning, with headlights on voltage dropped to 11.91, when cranking it dropped to 9.96.
So i think i can safely say its fooked, will pickup a new supercharge MF88H on Monday morning - found one for $209.

I was in Supercheap today and see they had a century battery that is the same as the supercharger , think its a Din88LH ? or something like that , and it had 930 CCA , the other Din88H was 730CCA , both were around the $250 mark..... just an option if you want a few more CCA

Bulletman

[BradC]

I was in Supercheap today and see they had a century battery that is the same as the supercharger , think its a Din88LH ? or something like that , and it had 930 CCA , the other Din88H was 730CCA , both were around the $250 mark..... just an option if you want a few more CCA

I just had occasion to check. The MF88H was $223.30 in April. 900CCA / 160RC.

If I had the option I'd trade CCA for RC. Don't need anywhere near the cranking amps, but the capacity is useful.

[PeterOZ]

Fitted the new battery Saturday morning, boy it sure spins it over now!! What a difference, oh and no special programs or transmissions errors on the dash now [bigwhistle]

SSB SS88TI
1180 CCA
250 RC
92a/h

Will see how long it lasts.

cheers
P

[drivesafe]

Fitted the new battery Saturday morning, boy it sure spins it over now!! What a difference, oh and no special programs or transmissions errors on the dash now [bigwhistle]

SSB SS88TI
1180 CCA
250 RC
92a/h

Will see how long it lasts.

cheers
P
Hi Peter, now that you have had your new battery installed and in use for a few days, when you know you will not be using your vehicle for a few daystar discharging your battery down to around 12.2v or slightly lower, and then see what voltage you get when you next drive it.

[Narangga]

I spoke too soon in post #11. [bigsad]

The auxiliary battery died a couple of weeks ago and the Delkor had been showing signs it was not in good health. I put the multimeter on it before my wife turned the ignition yesterday and it dropped to under 11V as soon as it when to accessories. New battery installed yesterday evening and a new auxiliary due to arrive Monday.

August 2017 I paid $243, February 2020 I paid $253.

[drivesafe]

I just posted up this info in another thread on starting batteries, and could save some money for D3 and D4 owners.

Just in case someone is thinking of it, a word of caution.


DO NOT CONSIDER USING LITHIUM CRANKING BATTERIES.


Most lithiums can be charged directly from an alternator and if it’s the auxiliary battery then it’s not likely to be a problem, even in vehicles with SMART alternators.

How you set up a vehicle to be able to separate the lithium auxiliary battery from any lead acid batteries ( including the cranking battery ) when the motor is not running, that is the only real issue.

But there is a MAJOR potential problem when using a lithium battery as a cranking battery.

Again, while charging the lithium from the alternator is not likely to pose a problem for a lithium cranking battery, but there is a very high possibility of damaging both the alternator and the vehicles electronics.

The the problem is not from overloading the alternator but the exact opposite.

There have been a number of issues where the lithium battery’s BMS has shutdown while the lithium cranking battery is being charged. Be it from over voltage, or the battery reaching a fully charged state, or the lithium battery’s BMS failing.

Regardless of what causes the sudden shutdown, you now have a free-wheeling alternator, and in any situation, an alternator running without a battery connected to it, will allow the alternator to generate very high voltage spikes.

These spikes are being generated by all alternators at all times, but the cranking battery, because of its very size, acts as a massive spike suppressor.

With a lead acid cranking battery, even if it’s stuffed, it will still suppress these high voltage spike, and thus, protect the vehicle’s electronics.

With the lithium cranking battery removed from the alternator, these high voltage spikes will quickly destroy a vehicle electronics, including the alternators voltage regulator.

This is the REAL potential problem of using a lithium battery as a cranking battery and the potential of damage being caused, is even greater in newer vehicle, like Land Rovers, with their huge amount of electronics.