View Full Version : Galvanising an ARB bullbar. Is it possible to get a decent finish?
alittlebitconcerned
10th February 2020, 10:15 AM
Hello wise forum.
I’ve got an arb bullbar that I want to galvanise. Every galvaniser I’ve spoken to has said the finish will be rough and yet I often see RFS trucks with galvanised bullbars that are perfectly smooth.
When I mention these trucks to the galvanisers they still tell me it’s not possible. I feel like I’m taking crazy pills.
What’s the secret to getting a smooth finish? Where can I get it done?
W&KO
10th February 2020, 10:43 AM
If you go ahead you do realize you’ll have to drill a number of holes in each of the tubes prior. Tip, get them to advise where they want them as it based on where they plan to lift the bar.
And if they’re not happy with where they are they’ll more than likely make additional holes.
101RRS
10th February 2020, 10:54 AM
Why galvanise a bull bar? Given the size of metal used in construction and basic maintenance a non galvanised bar should last longer than the life of any vehicle.
However having said that I have a galvanised series 1 bullbar and it is all smooth, like larger diameter pipe that has been galvanised - is there a post production process (like sanding off the rough bits) that takes the dags off - clearly there is a process - just look at street sign poles - just a matter of finding what it is.
Garry
Dorian
10th February 2020, 11:15 AM
It might be metal sprayed. Gives a smooth finish, but is usually a lot thinner.
I haven't had anything done in Gal ( I think the spray process is Zinc rather than Gal) but I've had a couple of items done in Nickel, Aluminium and a Ti coating.
We were playing around with various coating for rubber moulds.
Cheers Glen.
Grappler
10th February 2020, 11:15 AM
I understand why you would want to galvanise your ARB bullbar. The factory coating is poor quality and does not last.
Every ARB bar including the "Australian made delux", Ive owned, has rusted quickly under the surface coating causing it to bubble and lift
I would definitely consider galvanising, if I was to restore mine. Preparation and stripping the original would be laborious and as mentioned any sealed sections would require vent/drain holes
theelms66
10th February 2020, 11:58 AM
There are two finishes in the gal process. Obviously rough and smooth. I've seen it and have been asked when I delivered fabricated items to the galvanizers.
alittlebitconcerned
10th February 2020, 02:12 PM
I want to galvanise the bullbar obviously for protection, but also I think it would look pretty cool against all the gal cappings on my county.
I asked a business that does the metal spray on coatings (can use various metals other than gal finish) and even though they advertised it as an “architectural” finish ie smooth, they said it will still be lumpy.
The prep process I’m considering is electrical stripping then grind smooth any rough bits.
I really don’t get it, I see smooth gal finishes everywhere but I have called about 20 galvanisers in various states and they have ALL said it can’t be done.
roverrescue
10th February 2020, 02:13 PM
I have no association with them
But this mob claim to be the best centrifuge Gal In sydney
Galvanised Steel Troughing / Galvanizing Steel / Galvanised Beams (https://www.sydgal.com/)
You’ll pay more but a centrifuge place will pickle / dip / spin and your bar will be tickety boo.
You will need to sandblast the bar first and as mentioned ensure drainage of hollow sections. I’ve seen ARB bars with both sealed tubes and open vented
So just check carefully.
If a gal mob told me the result would be rough they are really saying
We are too cheap and nasty to keep our tanks clean and because 99% of our work is cheap n fast we don’t care ?
S
W&KO
10th February 2020, 05:00 PM
I want to galvanise the bullbar obviously for protection, but also I think it would look pretty cool against all the gal cappings on my county.
I asked a business that does the metal spray on coatings (can use various metals other than gal finish) and even though they advertised it as an “architectural” finish ie smooth, they said it will still be lumpy.
The prep process I’m considering is electrical stripping then grind smooth any rough bits.
I really don’t get it, I see smooth gal finishes everywhere but I have called about 20 galvanisers in various states and they have ALL said it can’t be done.
I reckon the one I use in Brisbane would do it.
We just drop stuff off and pick up a week later.
I guess as you mentioned it’s a bull bar going on a car they are being careful giving you the heads up.
Just call it racking or something.
travelrover
10th February 2020, 09:34 PM
Every ARB bar including the "Australian made delux", Ive owned, has rusted quickly under the surface coating causing it to bubble and lift
Hi Grappler, that’s interesting! I have two Defenders with ARB Delux bars both fitted to the vehicles new. A 96 300Tdi & a 99 Td5 and neither have a spot of rust or bubbling on them, just stone chips. I assume they were Australian made as something’s still where in those days! Are the bars you are referring to more recent?
Cheers - Simon
POD
11th February 2020, 06:53 AM
I had an article that I made as part of a larger project galvanised last year. The finish is rough and lumpy, which did not matter. My item- a drainage tray for a pedal-powered pottery wheel- was a tiny thing in the midst of a staggering array of large industrial stairways, vats, hoppers, beams and the like which was obviously their main business stream. They're not going to alter their process for something that attracts minimum fee. Your bullbar will be in this category. I would think you are going to be doing some kind of follow-up process to smooth the finish.
And yes, get their advice where to put your drain holes. If the dippers decide it needs more holes, they will blow them in with an oxy torch and charge you $70 a hole.
Homestar
11th February 2020, 07:06 AM
Last time I had any galvanising done was the columns on my veranda some years ago but the finish is smooth for the most part - there are a couple of drips on the edges that are a bit rough but on the main areas - it's 100 x 100 box section - it's beautiful and smooth so not sure what makes things rough - maybe it could be the amount of edges a bullbar has.
Can you find the manufacture of the bullbars you've seen that are smooth and call them to see who they use?
scarry
11th February 2020, 07:35 AM
I understand why you would want to galvanise your ARB bullbar. The factory coating is poor quality and does not last.
Every ARB bar including the "Australian made delux", Ive owned, has rusted quickly under the surface coating causing it to bubble and lift
I would definitely consider galvanising, if I was to restore mine. Preparation and stripping the original would be laborious and as mentioned any sealed sections would require vent/drain holes
We have had the same issue,the coating on their bars,racks,towbars,etc seems very poor.
In fact for the next vehicle i will look around a bit more for a bar with a better coating.
We have had bars re powder coated at a local place and the coating is way better,than the original,and no issues after 10yrs.
What we have found is if the ARB bar is colour matched to the vehicle,the coating is good,because it is done locally,but the black bars,racks,etc seem to have the poorer quality coating.
trout1105
11th February 2020, 09:56 AM
I fitted a new ARB bulbar to my D2a about4/5 years ago and after a few animal strikes, much scrub bashing and spending a LOT of time at the beach there is NO rust anywhere on it because I tend to touch up the paint when it gets scratched off.
Galvanising is a great way of protecting steel from rust but it is pretty soft and will scratch off just like paint does and it is Much more expensive/difficult to touch up.
gromit
11th February 2020, 12:27 PM
Galvanising is a great way of protecting steel from rust but it is pretty soft and will scratch off just like paint does and it is Much more expensive/difficult to touch up.
It shouldn't scratch off but anyway zinc is sacrificial so a scratch in the surface and the steel below shouldn't rust.
For years Land Rover used galvanising on any high wear parts of the body, the cappings etc. on my 60odd year old Series I are still rust free.
Colin
INter674
13th February 2020, 08:54 AM
We have had the same issue,the coating on their bars,racks,towbars,etc seems very poor.
In fact for the next vehicle i will look around a bit more for a bar with a better coating.
We have had bars re powder coated at a local place and the coating is way better,than the original,and no issues after 10yrs.
What we have found is if the ARB bar is colour matched to the vehicle,the coating is good,because it is done locally,but the black bars,racks,etc seem to have the poorer quality coating.
Naaa.. sorry the colour matched coating on ARB is crap..it is too thin and fragile too.
Main reason? .well the bars are made in Indo.. ARB can't get Aussie to sit and weld all day apparently .. and are powder coated std.
In Aus they are colour matched but the powder coating is only roughed up a bit therefore the 2 pack don't adhere well and chips too easily. Ask any professional painter who'll tell you to sand blast the powder coating off b 4 painting.
Even with the underlying powder coat they still rust....check out forum feedback...lot's of concern there.☺
Info source: ARB Engineer... as a result of our GU colour matched bull bar chipping..scratching. and rusting within days...my plastic zipper ripped of a whole line and we could easily remove the paint with a finger nail.
They said initially the paint was not fully dry.. ha ha ha[emoji2] or it was damaged in transit or the we should have paid them to install it etc etc etc.
We gave up and will fix it properly ourselves.
gromit
13th February 2020, 10:54 AM
[QUOTE=INter674;2973369
Main reason? .well the bars are made in Indo.. ARB can't get Aussie to sit and weld all day apparently .. and are powder coated std.
.[/QUOTE]
You're having a laugh aren't you ?
Robot welded.
I'm sure that Aussie bars are made at Kilsyth, Thailand factory make bars for rest of world (also robot welded).
Can't comment on the painting, mine is over 20 years old & OK but it spends a lot of time in the garage.
I'll check with someone next week.
As for putting in a centrifuge after galvanising.... i though this was for nuts & bolts, small brackets etc to stop them sticking togethet rather than a large item like a bullbar.
Colin
rick130
13th February 2020, 11:39 AM
You're having a laugh aren't you ?
Robot welded.
I'm sure that Aussie bars are made at Kilsyth, Thailand factory make bars for rest of world (also robot welded).
Can't comment on the painting, mine is over 20 years old & OK but it spends a lot of time in the garage.
I'll check with someone next week.
As for putting in a centrifuge after galvanising.... i though this was for nuts & bolts, small brackets etc to stop them sticking togethet rather than a large item like a bullbar.
ColinFWIW I've been told older model cars like the D2 are fabbed in Thailand too.
I was waiting for a batch to go through but went with a TJM as they had stock.
TJM's older car model bars are made in the PRC, and the surface treatment under the powder coating isn't flash either.
My 2.5yo one needs sand blasting and re-coating, the powder coat is bubbling up all over.
gromit
13th February 2020, 12:06 PM
FWIW I've been told older model cars like the D2 are fabbed in Thailand too.
I was waiting for a batch to go through but went with a TJM as they had stock.
TJM's older car model bars are made in the PRC, and the surface treatment under the powder coating isn't flash either.
My 2.5yo one needs sand blasting and re-coating, the powder coat is bubbling up all over.
That would make sense, not worth setting up for a short run at Aussie labour rates.
Colin
scarry
13th February 2020, 12:38 PM
Naaa.. sorry the colour matched coating on ARB is crap..it is too thin and fragile too.
In Aus they are colour matched but the powder coating is only roughed up a bit therefore the 2 pack don't adhere well and chips too easily. Ask any professional painter who'll tell you to sand blast the powder coating off b 4 painting.
Sorry,but the paint on my colour matched ARB bar on the D4,after 8 yrs is still in fantastic condition,as good as new.Maybe i was lucky,i did know a guy at ARB at the time,and got it at a well discounted price.
But being white it does show every bug mark,and is a PITA to keep clean.I won't get a white one again.
But the ARB bar on the Deefer in my sig,was not colour matched to the vehicle,and both it,the tow bar and roof rack,all ARB,were very poorly powder coated and we had them redone by Ben,i think his name is, at APT.That was quite a few years ago,and the coating is still perfect.
The son has recently had an Ironman bar fitted to his LC 76,and it seems reasonable well coated,i suppose time will tell.
Oh,and the galvanising on the Series1 bumper is great,after 60 plus yrs,including quite a few on Fraser island.......[biggrin]
Bigpete
13th February 2020, 02:12 PM
Sorry,but the paint on my colour matched ARB bar on the D4,after 8 yrs is still in fantastic condition,as good as new.Maybe i was lucky,i did know a guy at ARB at the time,and got it at a well discounted price.
But being white it does show every bug mark,and is a PITA to keep clean.I won't get a white one again.
But the ARB bar on the Deefer in my sig,was not colour matched to the vehicle,and both it,the tow bar and roof rack,all ARB,were very poorly powder coated and we had them redone by Ben,i think his name is, at APT.That was quite a few years ago,and the coating is still perfect.
The son has recently had an Ironman bar fitted to his LC 76,and it seems reasonable well coated,i suppose time will tell.
Oh,and the galvanising on the Series1 bumper is great,after 60 plus yrs,including quite a few on Fraser island.......[biggrin]
There are two main commercial ways that galvanising is applied to steel in Australia.
hot dipping ...where you sink the article into a molten bath of the plating and then "drip cool" it by removing it to get the coverage you will pay for ...usually it's costed by weight.
the finish is ALWAYS described as rough.
Otherwise there is electroplating ( as on the series Landrover trim etc) roadside posts etc that finishes very smooth ( and often thinner in coating).
if you are painting the dipping process it's no problem to get a smooth finish just proceed as you would painting a body panel and use fillers and smoothing ( sanding ) technology etc.
cheers
INter674
13th February 2020, 04:25 PM
Sorry,but the paint on my colour matched ARB bar on the D4,after 8 yrs is still in fantastic condition,as good as new.Maybe i was lucky,i did know a guy at ARB at the time,and got it at a well discounted price.
But being white it does show every bug mark,and is a PITA to keep clean.I won't get a white one again.
But the ARB bar on the Deefer in my sig,was not colour matched to the vehicle,and both it,the tow bar and roof rack,all ARB,were very poorly powder coated and we had them redone by Ben,i think his name is, at APT.That was quite a few years ago,and the coating is still perfect.
The son has recently had an Ironman bar fitted to his LC 76,and it seems reasonable well coated,i suppose time will tell.
Oh,and the galvanising on the Series1 bumper is great,after 60 plus yrs,including quite a few on Fraser island.......[biggrin]
The key word is 8 years...that would mean it was prolly made in Aus...and...ARB still do make their higher value limited run bars here eg. ones exclusive to Toyota. My guess is yours was not powder coated b 4 and maybe they looked after you with extra paint😚
gromit
13th February 2020, 06:02 PM
Otherwise there is electroplating ( as on the series Landrover trim etc) roadside posts etc that finishes very smooth ( and often thinner in coating).
I'm sure the original Series trim was hot dipped hence many parts are still good after 60+ years.
Colin
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