Discovery 3 Cranks but does not start or Starts and Cuts immidiately

[OutlawLR3]

Hey Folks, i have a 2004 LR3 Discovery 2.7 TDV6 and it worked like a charm until 399600km. I(diot) pressurewashed my engine bay and then the trouble began.

I had some transmission and transfercase faults. I could delete them with nanocom. Later that day the car itself cycled the locks and made some weird flashing. I put silica dry pads in the car and disconnected the battery over night.

Next day the flashing and locks-problem was gone, and i was happy as mf. But as i wanted to start it, it immediately cuttet off.

If i just put the key to ignition stage 2 it makes some weird clanks 6 times, then its silent. And wont start, in the clank-time the car starts but cuts out after 1-2 seconds. After the clank time its just cranking but does not start.

these are the errorcodes from Nanocom:

FAULT 1 OF 14
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P140A
Exhaust gas recirculation sensor C - circuit low
(PENDING)
GENERAL FAILURE INFORMATION -
NO SUBTYPE INFORMATION.

FAULT 2 OF 14
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P0562
System voltage low
(PENDING)
GENERAL FAILURE INFORMATION -
NO SUBTYPE INFORMATION.

FAULT 3 OF 14
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P0A09
DC/DC converter fault circuit low
(PENDING)
GENERAL FAILURE INFORMATION -
NO SUBTYPE INFORMATION.

FAULT 4 OF 14
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P1136
Control box fan circuit
(PENDING)
GENERAL FAILURE INFORMATION -
NO SUBTYPE INFORMATION.

FAULT 5 OF 14
ECU: Transfer Case
CODE:U0132
Lost communication with ride level ctrl module / Lost communication with suspension ctrl module A
(PERMANENT)
BUS SIGNAL/MESSAGE FAILURE -
SIGNAL IS INVALID.

FAULT 6 OF 14 ###car is maximum dropped because of the removed battery###
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:C1A74
Rear left height sensor mechanism
(PERMANENT)
GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
CIRCUIT VOLTAGE OUT OF RANGE.

FAULT 7 OF 14 ###car is maximum dropped###
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:C1A75
Rear right height sensor mechanism
(PERMANENT)
GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
CIRCUIT VOLTAGE OUT OF RANGE.

FAULT 8 OF 14
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0421
Invalid data received from ride level control module
(PENDING)
COMPONENT FAILURE -
UNEXPECTED OPERATION.

FAULT 9 OF 14
ECU: Airbags/SRS
CODE:B1A55
Crash record output circuit
(PERMANENT)
GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND OR OPEN.

FAULT 10 OF 14
ECU: Body Control
CODE:B1C26
Pedal motor feedback circuit
(PERMANENT)
FREQUENCY MODULATION/PULSE WIDTH MODULATION FAILURE -
INCORRECT, HAS TOO MANY PULSES.

FAULT 11 OF 14 ###I dont have these, old failure###
ECU: Body Control
CODE:B1C32
Steering column tilt solenoid
(PERMANENT)
GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
CIRCUIT OPEN.

FAULT 12 OF 14 ###I dont have these either###
ECU: Body Control
CODE:B1C34
Steering column telescope solenoid
(PERMANENT)
GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
CIRCUIT OPEN.

FAULT 13 OF 14 ###Have no wiper there so i removed the fuse, old error!###
ECU: Body Control
CODE:B1C77
Rear wiper relay coil circuit
(PERMANENT)
GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND OR OPEN.

FAULT 14 OF 14
ECU: Audio Front Control
CODE:U1A03
Vehicle configuration parameter
(PERMANENT)
ALGORITHM BASED FAILURE -
SIGNAL COMPARE FAILURE.


These dont make sense to me, and i dont know where to start... may you ppl help me?

Thanks so much in advance.

[DiscoJeffster]

Ok. First step. Remove the battery and get the the ECU’s that sit behind there. Get in there and dry it all out. Dry it out well. Maybe a gentle heater in the vicinity. You’ll probably find they’re sipping wet in the plugs and possibly internally (though hope not) and giving the errors. This is not uncommon after a pressure wash in the engine bay.

[OutlawLR3]

Okay, ill take them out to dry. maybe this will help. Thank you! Please give some more tips guys if you have them!

[justinc]

Yes, very common to soak those ECUs behind the battery...
Dry dry and dry them, it'll take a bit of time but it's the only way.

First time I did it was the last time I did it...🤬🤬

[OutlawLR3]

Thanks, I unmounted it and put It in my oven at 70°C and opened it, dried everything and put it back in. Unfortunately, nothing has changed. Its still cutting out after seconds.

[OutlawLR3]

If I push the throttle I can rev it up a little and keep it running for maybe 4-6 seconds, but I won't do that again because my old lady is cold. maybe I will have to put the engine in another d3, but this can't be something big because everything is working for about 6 seconds...

[Graeme]

You could remove the ecm then use a hair dryer to dry the connectors on the wiring harnesses and any other connectors in there.

[DiscoJeffster]

You could remove the ecm then use a hair dryer to dry the connectors on the wiring harnesses and any other connectors in there.

Yeah. It’s not necessarily the ECU itself but all the connectors, wiring etc with residual water in there. If you leave the bonnet open, nature will take its course.

[Bulletman]

Yeah. It’s not necessarily the ECU itself but all the connectors, wiring etc with residual water in there. If you leave the bonnet open, nature will take its course.

Seeing he is in Germany and temps would at a guess be about 10 degrees , maybe a hairdryer might be a bit quicker...[biggrin][biggrin]

good advice for the rest of us tho.[thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig]

Bulletman

[DiscoJeffster]

Hahaha. Yeah fair lol.

[OutlawLR3]

We will have to wait about six months from now, then we have a cut from rainy ****ty 7° to about 40°C for a week and thats our summer here xD They are all dry unfortunately. Is this a common problem that my car has? Has anybode had this yet?

Thanks guys!

[OutlawLR3]

So, she is back at live, i bought another D3 with an engine jam and swapped all the electronics, so i guess the engine ECU is toast. Now she runs great again.