Puma maintenance beyond the schedule

[Toxic_Avenger]

I have been keeping a scrap book of the receipts, plans, schematics, etc for my 2012 defender 90 (2.2Tdci).
I have also taken the reigns for the servicing of the vehicle myself- the plan is to do as much as I can myself- I'm fairly well sorted with the skills from other cars, and own most of the tools up to the moderate jobs to get it done.

Some people may have seen the dealership maintenance schedule- I have attached it. 158394

Now while it is realistic in some regards, and a bit optimistic in others (ie 200,000km coolant change intervals) it's a bit light on with some of the other components.
Looking to get some idea of service life (years or kilometers) I could expect, or look to change out proactively for things like:
Oil cooler
Fuel cooler
Coolant hoses
Thermostat
Radiator
Clutch slave
Timing chain interval
...and anything else that has a history of failing at an inconvenient time.

My idea is to proactively replace some of these parts as time and funds allow. If I happen to build up a modest stockpile of parts with some 'get you outta strife' value, they may very well end up in the parts bin for 'Justin Case'.
I am also using this information to build a bit of a maintenance history spreadsheet and part number file to allow easy access to the service items. Pretty much all the fiddly stuff that gets in the way of performing a service.
Once it's somewhat complete and presentable, happy to pass this resource on as required.


I have started the journey with a coolant flush, new thermostat fuel filters and oil change for it's 52,000km birthday. I think the challenge will be to balance the need for replacement with the risk of over-servicing the vehicle, and the associated costs of doing so.

[scarry]

Adapter shaft, common failure,needs sorting or it will fail,definitely.

Replace clutch fluid as it might save doing the slave cylinder which is a mission,not like the older models.

Just a couple of wonderfull Ford designs to add to the list[bigsad][biggrin]

[spudfan]

To my mind there is no point in changing something like a radiator until it leaks. The one you put in could fail in a week so just change it when it needs it. My 200 tdi from 1992 is on a second radiator so they last along time. My 200 tdi is still using all it's original hoses. The handbook recommends that at 60,000kms (36,000 miles) all hydraulic brake fluid seals and flexible hoses are changed. I have changed the brake fluid but everything else is still there.
A thermostat and slave cylinder will last what they last so I do not think a pre emptive change is in order. The drive belt (mine is a 2.4) I did after five years but it is visible and you can visually check it. If you do the gearbox and diffs etc at sensible intervals you will be doing well. The brake fluid can be done every two years. Whatever coolant you use will give you yearly intervals for change on the bottle.
Regarding a change of the adapter shaft. My 2008 Puma and the 2011 Puma are still on the origionals. If you have to change a clutch you can do the adapter shaft while you are doing it if it will give you peace of mind. Each to their own.
Just service it well and regularly.
You will spot a leaking radiator quickly enough and you can temporarily stop the leak and still drive the vehicle while you wait for the new one to arrive.
You can rebuild the vehicle every year but still have it written off by a truck while it is legitimately parked. Like I said, sensible servicing and enjoy it.
There is a post up where I recently had the turbo innards replaced and the alternator replaced on the 1992 200 tdi. The turbo and alternator had been in situ since 1992...
You could buy a spare seat base in case they stop making the base in the trim you have. I can no longer get the Moorland cloth version of the seat bases fitted to the 1992 tdi….

[TheGrumpy]

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/db79f35e54922a81883e24b08cf1837e.jpg

These suckers break a bit and are cheap/small to have around.

[Tombie]

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/db79f35e54922a81883e24b08cf1837e.jpg

These suckers break a bit and are cheap/small to have around.

$7.00 plus freight for a simple HT bolt [happycry]

I switched mine out for Unbrako bolts and Nordlocks and never had a problem.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Adapter shaft...
Replace clutch fluid as it might save doing the slave cylinder...


Adapter shaft is on my radar.
What's the failure mode of the slave cylinder? Wear and tear, or low fluid level, or...?



To my mind there is no point in changing something like a radiator until it leaks. The one you put in could fail in a week so just change it when it needs it. My 200 tdi from 1992 is on a second radiator so they last along time. My 200 tdi is still using all it's original hoses. The handbook recommends that at 60,000kms (36,000 miles) all hydraulic brake fluid seals and flexible hoses are changed. I have changed the brake fluid but everything else is still there.
A thermostat and slave cylinder will last what they last so I do not think a pre emptive change is in order. The drive belt (mine is a 2.4) I did after five years but it is visible and you can visually check it. If you do the gearbox and diffs etc at sensible intervals you will be doing well. The brake fluid can be done every two years. Whatever coolant you use will give you yearly intervals for change on the bottle.
Regarding a change of the adapter shaft. My 2008 Puma and the 2011 Puma are still on the origionals. If you have to change a clutch you can do the adapter shaft while you are doing it if it will give you peace of mind. Each to their own.
Just service it well and regularly.
You will spot a leaking radiator quickly enough and you can temporarily stop the leak and still drive the vehicle while you wait for the new one to arrive.
You can rebuild the vehicle every year but still have it written off by a truck while it is legitimately parked. Like I said, sensible servicing and enjoy it.
There is a post up where I recently had the turbo innards replaced and the alternator replaced on the 1992 200 tdi. The turbo and alternator had been in situ since 1992...
You could buy a spare seat base in case they stop making the base in the trim you have. I can no longer get the Moorland cloth version of the seat bases fitted to the 1992 tdi….

Good points. I hope proactive maintenance where sensible doesn't end in a write off from a rear end collision or similar. That would ruin my day.
I guess while things like radiators and hoses are relatively long life items, the reality is that when they fail, it can be potentially catastrophic for the engine. So that's where the thought process needs to be- run it until failure and risk it, or swap it out after a well served 10-20 years.
I understand the level of service that you get / have got from the 200tdi, but I'm still on the fence if the tdci is at that same level. I hope I can report the same level of reliability in 15 years time.

[DiscoMick]

I have read the adaptor shaft is only a problem if they forgot to grease it on the production line.

[scarry]

Adapter shaft is on my radar.
What's the failure mode of the slave cylinder? Wear and tear, or low fluid level, or...?.

The adapter shaft will fail,unless it is greased regularly,which is very difficult to do properly.
To do it,the gearbox,TC,etc has to be removed.
The factory grease will not last long,less than 100K,many fail well before that,depends on your luck.
My Indie has a pile of old ones at the workshop.

The adapter shaft mod is the go,heaps on here about it,search is your friend.

The clutch fluid seems to deteriorate,or get moisture in it,or dirt,which will eventually cause the slave cylinder to fail.
Then its a gearbox,TC out to replace,not like the old models,which was a half hour job.

[Toxic_Avenger]

The clutch fluid seems to deteriorate,or get moisture in it,or dirt,which will eventually cause the slave cylinder to fail.
Then its a gearbox,TC out to replace,not like the old models,which was a half hour job.

I'm aware of the work to rectify. Not impossible to do at home, but one of those 'bring a mate and brush up on your swearing vocab' sort of jobs.
Good to know that it's a possible contamination issue. If Water ingress, given that the oil does not really circulate, i'm guessing that the two fluids won't emulsify, they will just collect at the slave. Interesting.

[ozrob]

I'm aware of the work to rectify. Not impossible to do at home, but one of those 'bring a mate and brush up on your swearing vocab' sort of jobs.
Good to know that it's a possible contamination issue. If Water ingress, given that the oil does not really circulate, i'm guessing that the two fluids won't emulsify, they will just collect at the slave. Interesting.

Good plan to do the maintenance your self,
at 57000km which are not many K's, so you would be looking at things that require replacement due to time as opposed to distance.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture, in non-tropical regions brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years and one a tear in tropical climates, I have found that the clutch fluid deteriorates quicker as the reservoir cap has a breather hole, so change the fluid at least every year, and bleed the new fluid through the line, not just suck the old fluid out from the reservoir.
Check the steering and suspension rubbers and swivel pin housing seals.
I perhaps would not change the thermostat, but buy one as a spare.
I keep in my spares bin, a complete wheel bearing set, brake pads, as these things can be a show stopper if you do the work at home and the shops are closed....where you need the vehicle to be back on the road tomorrow. Also good to take with you when remote travelling.
If you have access to a hoist, life is easy...

[DiscoMick]

Hopefully yours has the upgraded clutch springs, so they will not start to rattle at idle. If it does start to rattle at idle, then it's about $1600 for a LR upgraded clutch. But don't do it unless it starts to rattle.

[Rurover]

I'd also be inclined to replace all intercooler hoses with aftermarket silicone ones as the originals are pretty ordinary.
In my 2013 Puma, after just over 50,000km I had problems with two of these cracking and leaking which puts the engine into "limp home" mode.
Naturally it happened when I was miles from nowhere!
Don't forget the short hose under the inlet manifold.

Alan

[Toxic_Avenger]

I suffered the turbo to intercooler hose failure at 40,000km.
Now running 5 ply BAS silicone and T bar clamps.

[trout1105]

I think the challenge will be to balance the need for replacement with the risk of over-servicing the vehicle, and the associated costs of doing so.

"Over servicing" is a Far better option than skipping services and preventative maintenance is Always a cheaper/easier option than a breakdown [thumbsupbig]

[ezyrama]

I have read the adaptor shaft is only a problem if they forgot to grease it on the production line.

I had mine done "allegedly" under the recall at 60 k, but at 110 km, we changed it for an Ashcroft's cross drilled unit. It was dry as a dead dingo's,,,,,,
and about 10 k away from failing completely.

One turbo hose came off when I had 370 km on the clock, so much for the dealer delivery check. They said it wasn't an uncommon occurrence. I asked if they even bothered to check it.
(I wasn't in a good mood as I was on my way to see my dying Father). I has a set changed when it went into limp mode whilst under warranty, recently put a blue set on as the top one
rubbed through on a hose clamp due to incorrect placement of the said clamp.