OIL GURUS - ADVICE NEEDED.

[gofer]

as above , have recently had oil checked. all ok except for oil viscosity. they recommend injector service ?? agree / not . ??

'99 td5 with original ecu ( pre facelift fuel map etc ) . engine is a 16p i got from a member of aulro. hasn't missed a beat in 40,xxxk's.

last oil change ( 5k ago ) both filters changed. oil left to drain out overnight with car on level ground before filling up again.

pdf of report attached .

thanks for any info. pete :-)

[PhilipA]

The injectors in D2s are very robust and long lived and the fuelling is usually well controlled by the ECU.

I would be looking at the injector seals and orings if anything, particularly the orings as raw fuel can then leak into the oil.

Regards PhilipA

[gofer]

thanks for the input phillip. my thoughts were going in the same direction. just to be safe i'll get a set of genuine o rings and washers etc. in meantime i think i'll change the oil as well . thanks again. pete -)

[rick130]

Can't download the pdf on the phone for some reason, will check it later.

[gofer]

Can't download the pdf on the phone for some reason, will check it later.
thanks mate.

[Blknight.aus]

you'll most likely have a weepy injector top seal.

I've heard tell of a case of a sticking injector but that also shows up when you read the balance numbers.

the cylinder that has the sticky injector tends to read a low compensation value (theres already fuel getting in)

unless its #5 you can also spot it by pulling the glow plugs.

A field test is to bridge the fuel pump relay, disconnect the ECU or injector harness, then bridge the starter with the glow plugs out. the pot that mists is your culprit.

[rick130]

Ditto the seals.

A dump and refill is a really good idea.
While 'only' 3% fuel, no oil can mitigate against fuel dilution.
It'll be cheap insurance until you get the seals replaced and then do another oil change.

[justinc]

3% is immediate seal replace in my opinion, as a certain amount of that diesel will have already "burnt off", so in effect the bottom end, camshaft lobes, and turbocharger bearings are suffering every time that engine was running. As Rick says change it out again soon but please do the seals ASAP. And only use genuine ones. NOT OEM, Genuine.

[gofer]

again , thanks for all the input. changed the oil this arvo after initial posting . any suggestions on genuine supplier ?? plenty of cheap options , but haven't found any genuine yet. i'll keep looking . thanks again. pete :-)

[rick130]

Drop Mario and Heather at Roverlord a line, they should be able to help.
roverlord@iinet.net.au

[gofer]

hello again. only genuine 1 found advertised are from "rimmer " in uk . even turner diesels sell / use oem "o rings " . pity nothing in aussie . will keep looking . pete.

[mrb505]

Try Karcraft they have them listed

[gofer]

mario at "roverlord " :BigThumb:

[Xtreme]

Try Karcraft they have them listed
Could also try British Motor Imports - Mulgrave NSW

[gofer]

just an update :- got genuine o rings and washers from mario. removed injectors while waiting for delivery. then had to wait until sunday to fit new seals etc. delayed because of strong winds on the farm . my workshop is open ground next to my caravan :-)) fitted sunday . no dramas !!! primed fuel system by pumping pedal to get engine light on etc. pump sounded noisy . no matter what i did , the pump would not prime system . engine tried to run , but no go.

please insert copious amounts of swear words !!!!

walked away from it !! fresh start today . car was running fine prior to injector removal , so removed fuel supply line from FPR and turned on ignition.. loads of bubbles etc.
it took 2 full cycles of fuel pump to get rid of air. reconnected fuel line . primed system 3 times with then tried starting again. bingo !! initialy running rough , but settled quickly. took it for a run around the farm until up to temp. all ok. injectors all reading between 1 and -1 . parked it up . will check tomorrow for any problems starting after sitting overnight.

only reason i can think of is when i disconnected the fuel line to drain fuel from the head etc it back siphoned , and sucked air back to the pump. so , non return valve on fuel filter is either faulty or missing . pete :-)

[Blknight.aus]

just an update :- got genuine o rings and washers from mario. removed injectors while waiting for delivery. then had to wait until sunday to fit new seals etc. delayed because of strong winds on the farm . my workshop is open ground next to my caravan :-)) fitted sunday . no dramas !!! primed fuel system by pumping pedal to get engine light on etc. pump sounded noisy . no matter what i did , the pump would not prime system . engine tried to run , but no go.

please insert copious amounts of swear words !!!!

walked away from it !! fresh start today . car was running fine prior to injector removal , so removed fuel supply line from FPR and turned on ignition.. loads of bubbles etc.
it took 2 full cycles of fuel pump to get rid of air. reconnected fuel line . primed system 3 times with then tried starting again. bingo !! initialy running rough , but settled quickly. took it for a run around the farm until up to temp. all ok. injectors all reading between 1 and -1 . parked it up . will check tomorrow for any problems starting after sitting overnight.

only reason i can think of is when i disconnected the fuel line to drain fuel from the head etc it back siphoned , and sucked air back to the pump. so , non return valve on fuel filter is either faulty or missing . pete :-)


I always do the priming sequence 4 times after pulling a td5 injector... that or bridge the fuel pump relay out and stick a good charger on the battery.

[rick130]

A quick and dirty test for fuel prior to an oil test is to drop a drop of oil onto a business card, if it has fuel it will spread a little further than straight oil and have a distinct 'halo' as the lighter fractions spread further.

I'll try and dig up a pic.

[gofer]

thanks for the input guys. i'll be more than happy if the beast starts ok tomorrow. regards fuel priming cycles , i tried both methods numerous times . pump would not clear out the air. it kept on cavitating , which is why i decided to disconnect fuel line and flush out air before priming . so , will investigate non return valve at some stage. again , thanks for input. pete :-)