There Goes My Optima D34 Smugness!

[DieselLSE]

Whilst I have been following the threads covering the longevity of the Optima yellow tops that many of us have been fitting with our Traxide systems, I must admit to having had a certain smugness about having no issues with my installation.
Until, that is, I noticed a slight warping of the top cover when I changed the engine oil the other week. You can see the warping under the sticker. But I had to take the car on a trip, so only managed to get to the retailer today.
Yes, they'd seen it before and called the supplier who said that it was over two years old and must have been fully discharged a few times. That was it.
Retailer did a load test and it was about 620CCA as opposed to 750CCA. I didn't take note of the result but it came up as "Good". This is interesting as I conducted a load test only six months ago (when I installed a new Varta main battery) and it came up as 100% (hence my continuing smugness!).
I do recall a 40L Waeco fridge being left on recently for a day or so by accident, so that may well have flattened the Optima. But the Waeco has a low battery cutout as does the Traxide ABG-25 voltage cut-out module. Surely going flat once couldn't fatally damage the Optima?
Anyway, I've left the Optima with the retailer so they can fully test it over the next few days. But even if it comes up OK, I'm not sure I want to rely on it in the bush.
Can anyone advise what the dangers may be in continuing to use the Optima? I often take a third battery in the bush to power camp lights etc. Could I still use the Optima for that? I suspect I may be replacing it with an SSB HVT-50D AGM, particularly if Tim's testing comes up OK.

[loanrangie]

Stick it in a battery box as a portable then when it does die just whack another AGM in there.

[Tins]

I can't answer any of your questions. All I can do is offer up this. I've been stuck at home now for some years. I had a Yellow Top as a house battery before. Car sat and sat, and it went flat. Wouldn't light a test light. Popped it onto a CTEK MX 5.0 charger to regen, and no worries. I wanted it for a start batt at the time, and it did fine. But, it never gets used, and so I find that when I DO need it I have to recharge it. It seems to take this abuse, and has done so for four years. OTOH, I have a much newer Red Top which has died. The amps it pulls from the charger, it's nuts. The battery shop ( Bond in Bayswater ) say they are amazed, the bat gets real hot and it doesn't hold one volt. Supplier isn't interested.

Based on the YT, I would have sworn by Optima. The design is great, there is no leakage etc. Based on the RT I wouldn't touch them. Now, before people go off about Mexico and such, BOTH mine are Mexican. Optima have been Mexican since 2009. ALL of them.

I bought Optima because I wanted Carl's dual battery box in my D2, and it was designed for the D34...... X2..... and both seem to have gone.

I'm working up to going bush again. I don't think the Optimas will be coming with me, sadly. I'm convinced they had the right idea for the time, but what does that mean in the end?

[Tombie]

I did a fit up tonight.
Can confirm that a pair of HVT50s fit the D2 “Carl’s dual battery box”

[Tins]

I did a fit up tonight.
Can confirm the HVT50 fits the D2 “dual battery box”

On it's own?? or with two?? You do tend towards the enigmatic, so pardon me asking.

[Tombie]

On it's own?? or with two?? You do tend towards the enigmatic, so pardon me asking.

Two.. I have one of the prototype Carl’s trays.

[Tins]

Two.. I have one of the prototype Carl’s trays.

As do I. Thanks Mike.

[Ozzy119]

Whilst I have been following the threads covering the longevity of the Optima yellow tops that many of us have been fitting with our Traxide systems, I must admit to having had a certain smugness about having no issues with my installation.
Until, that is, I noticed a slight warping of the top cover when I changed the engine oil the other week. You can see the warping under the sticker. But I had to take the car on a trip, so only managed to get to the retailer today.
Yes, they'd seen it before and called the supplier who said that it was over two years old and must have been fully discharged a few times. That was it.
Retailer did a load test and it was about 620CCA as opposed to 750CCA. I didn't take note of the result but it came up as "Good". This is interesting as I conducted a load test only six months ago (when I installed a new Varta main battery) and it came up as 100% (hence my continuing smugness!).
I do recall a 40L Waeco fridge being left on recently for a day or so by accident, so that may well have flattened the Optima. But the Waeco has a low battery cutout as does the Traxide ABG-25 voltage cut-out module. Surely going flat once couldn't fatally damage the Optima?
Anyway, I've left the Optima with the retailer so they can fully test it over the next few days. But even if it comes up OK, I'm not sure I want to rely on it in the bush.
Can anyone advise what the dangers may be in continuing to use the Optima? I often take a third battery in the bush to power camp lights etc. Could I still use the Optima for that? I suspect I may be replacing it with an SSB HVT-50D AGM, particularly if Tim's testing comes up OK.

Hi,

I've had two in 6 yrs. Not a great run by other accounts. The latest one started leaking from the negative terminal. Maybe it was over tightened by a mechanic. The car has been in workshops a fair bit.

Anyway, for camping trips I wouldn't trust the old one. I typically buy a new cranking battery every two yrs regardless, and especially before a big trip. I'm overly cautious now doubt, but then I'd prefer that arrangement to needing bush replacement.

[DiscoJeffster]

My camper/house batteries have been swollen since I got it four years ago. While I’ve confirmed they don’t hold the same capacity as new, at over $700 to replace them, I just ignore the bulge and continue using them. I wouldn’t be concerned about the YT bulge, but I get it that you’d hate to be stranded if it give up.

[shanegtr]

My yellow top has just died in the last week. Wont hold any charge. But its had a decent run as it was in the car when I brought it in mid 2014 and I have no idea how old it was then either[bighmmm]

[ADMIRAL]

Whilst I have been following the threads covering the longevity of the Optima yellow tops that many of us have been fitting with our Traxide systems, I must admit to having had a certain smugness about having no issues with my installation.
Until, that is, I noticed a slight warping of the top cover when I changed the engine oil the other week. You can see the warping under the sticker. But I had to take the car on a trip, so only managed to get to the retailer today.
Yes, they'd seen it before and called the supplier who said that it was over two years old and must have been fully discharged a few times. That was it.
Retailer did a load test and it was about 620CCA as opposed to 750CCA. I didn't take note of the result but it came up as "Good". This is interesting as I conducted a load test only six months ago (when I installed a new Varta main battery) and it came up as 100% (hence my continuing smugness!).
I do recall a 40L Waeco fridge being left on recently for a day or so by accident, so that may well have flattened the Optima. But the Waeco has a low battery cutout as does the Traxide ABG-25 voltage cut-out module. Surely going flat once couldn't fatally damage the Optima?
Anyway, I've left the Optima with the retailer so they can fully test it over the next few days. But even if it comes up OK, I'm not sure I want to rely on it in the bush.
Can anyone advise what the dangers may be in continuing to use the Optima? I often take a third battery in the bush to power camp lights etc. Could I still use the Optima for that? I suspect I may be replacing it with an SSB HVT-50D AGM, particularly if Tim's testing comes up OK.

Have a look at the Odyssey range. They have an aircraft background. Mine has been used and abused for over 8 years and is still going, albeit with slightly reduced performance. My battery came ( PC1200 ) in a steel case, which also helps durability IMO.

[Tombie]

Have a look at the Odyssey range. They have an aircraft background. Mine has been used and abused for over 8 years and is still going, albeit with slightly reduced performance. My battery came ( PC1200 ) in a steel case, which also helps durability IMO.

No... don’t.. they’ve gone backwards also.

Had 10 of these of varying sizes fail spectacularly over the years. Most recently the one in the D4. It lasted 4 months.

[slug_burner]

I have had a good run out of yellow tops. Got my first D31A about 15-16 years ago, it is still doing starting duty in the D2 Td5. Started as the Aux on a trip to the outback keeping an 80 LRT Waeco going for 6 weeks with a simple starter relay isolation switch triggered by Power on ignition trigger. Relay died but battery kept going. Vehicle start Battery died and placed the D31A into starting duty. Has worked in that mode for approx 10 years during which, due to parking up for extended periods, has gone flat enough to need a jump start. After getting back up to charge has continued on. Have subsequently acquired other Yellow tops for wife’s car and aux camping batteries.

They are a bit pricey but you can get them for less than advertised price if you are cheeky enough to to ask for a discount.

As I have a couple that I take out I would keep using a battery with a small bulge as I can replace if things go bad and make do with a single aux instead of two. I just pop them into a battery box behind the parcel grid/seats.

[DieselLSE]

Picked up the bulging Optima D34 from the retailer. CCA test came back OK, but Ah was down (forty-six or eight or something instead of 55Ah). But I was concerned about the safety of the bulging, so I went straight to the distributors, Federal Batteries in Keysborough. To their credit, they spoke with me and confirmed that the battery must have overheated and sulphated by being overcharged after having been left flat for some time. Not sure about this as the Traxide ABG-25 is set to cut-out at 11.6v (20%SoC) and the battery wouldn't have been left flat for long. Also, the Traxide USI-160 is designed to work with AGM batteries, so I cannot see that overcharging the Optima.
I expressed my concern that the battery could explode and they agreed that was always a possibility with any battery.
Whilst they wouldn't deal with a claim directly from me, they would deal with the retailer. So I returned the battery to the retailer who is quite happy to submit a claim as the battery is two years into a three year warranty. Interesting that the warranty is now two years!
In any event, I'm not comfortable taking such a distorted battery into the bush and I'm not now comfortable with Optima, so I immediately sourced an SSB HVT-50D AGM from the Victorian distributor Hollyhock Batteries Plus in Carrum Downs. I spoke with the MD, Phil, who is happy to consider doing a deal with AULRO members.
I'll be emailing Phil with a link to this and other related threads and we'll see if he wants to get involved.
In the meantime, I topped up the SSB overnight and fitted it this morning. One advantage for D3/4 use as a second battery is that you can remove the posts and simply bolt the Traxide cables (i.e remove the clamps) directly to where the posts were.
I'm also considering re-setting the ABG-25 Low Voltage Cut-out module from 11.6v to 11.8v (>30% SoC). Other options are 12.0v (>40%) and 12.3v (>60%).
I'll update this thread with how the warranty claim goes.

[DieselLSE]

My camper/house batteries have been swollen since I got it four years ago. While I’ve confirmed they don’t hold the same capacity as new, at over $700 to replace them, I just ignore the bulge and continue using them. I wouldn’t be concerned about the YT bulge, but I get it that you’d hate to be stranded if it give up.
Thanks DiscoJeffster. Actually, I'm not concerned about the battery failing. That can happen anytime with anything. I'm a great believer in redundancy, particularly when alone in the bush. I have a new Varta G14 as the main battery and now the SSB as a second one. But I also carry a third battery for camp lighting and, well, just to have. So, really, I could afford to have both the Varta and the SSB fail and I'd probably still be OK.
My concern, though, is with the Optima exploding or causing damage. How can you trust a deep cycle battery that fails on it's first deep cycle?

[DieselLSE]

I'll update this thread with how the warranty claim goes.
Sorry for the delay in updating, but we've been in self-isolation since my last post and not going out for anything. The retailer called back saying Federal had tested the Optima D34 yellow top and they reckon it comes up OK. So nothing to do under warranty. Talked some nonsense about the clamps being too tight and the battery too hot. So I certainly won't be dealing with any Federal sourced batteries again if at all possible and won't be buying Optima again.
Not sure about the retailer. I have supported them for a few years buying all my batteries there and am a bit disappointed they didn't take a firmer stand or at least make some sort of conciliatory offer.

[Tombie]

Very common story on Optima claims sadly.

[drivesafe]

Very common story on Optima claims sadly.
This seems to be the case lately.

[Slunnie]

Very common story on Optima claims sadly.

Its interesting, because I've always had a good run from them. Something has obviously changed in them and it makes me wonder if that corresponds with the price drop from what they were.

I've always run the BlueTop under the bonnet rather than the yellow or red, but never the less the reduced life on the Optimas is now a pretty common story.

I would recommend the Lifeline which I run as a second battery. These live as long as the original Optima's and for the same size will carry much more energy. You will pay for them though.

[gavinwibrow]

I'm also considering re-setting the ABG-25 Low Voltage Cut-out module from 11.6v to 11.8v (>30% SoC). Other options are 12.0v (>40%) and 12.3v (>60%).


Any more thoughts/action on this. Interested, as I have the same setup. Cheers

[DieselLSE]

Any more thoughts/action on this. Interested, as I have the same setup. Cheers

Not really. I've changed the cutout setting to 11.8v but have not done any testing.

[drivesafe]

Any more thoughts/action on this. Interested, as I have the same setup. Cheers
Hi folks, and if you are fitting the SSB battery then you can safely leave the ABG-25 setting at 11.6v.

The manufacturer’s specs state the battery can be cycled down to 10.8v ( or 0% SoC ) but while I was testing the battery I had ( before I recked it ), I found that by leaving the ABG-25 setting at 11.6v, you got a 95% usage from the battery.

You would only have about 3Ah remaining, but move the ABG-25 setting up 11.8v, you miss out on about 7+Ah for no real gain.

Remember we are covering normal RV usage, where you go out camping on a periodical basis.

If you were living in a caravan and depending on battery power 24/7, then I would not discharge the battery below 12.0v. but for our usage, your battery is going to die of old age way before you cycle it to death.


Again, the 11.6v setting is fine.

[Rickydsk]

Hi there, sorry to cast up an old post but it wouldn't let me DM you.

I have the same issue with the D31a yellowtop. Not a deep cycle. But it seems to have drained and I'm being told by the supplier that it was battery abuse. Tbf, I'm not aware of anything that would have drained it with my setup and surely this battery with all its claims would hold up more than ine discharge. Considering it was treated the same way as the car, like a big expensive baby.

As soon as it hit the two year mark. Problems started occurring.

Did you ever get any answer or resolution with your battery issue?


Picked up the bulging Optima D34 from the retailer. CCA test came back OK, but Ah was down (forty-six or eight or something instead of 55Ah). But I was concerned about the safety of the bulging, so I went straight to the distributors, Federal Batteries in Keysborough. To their credit, they spoke with me and confirmed that the battery must have overheated and sulphated by being overcharged after having been left flat for some time. Not sure about this as the Traxide ABG-25 is set to cut-out at 11.6v (20%SoC) and the battery wouldn't have been left flat for long. Also, the Traxide USI-160 is designed to work with AGM batteries, so I cannot see that overcharging the Optima.
I expressed my concern that the battery could explode and they agreed that was always a possibility with any battery.
Whilst they wouldn't deal with a claim directly from me, they would deal with the retailer. So I returned the battery to the retailer who is quite happy to submit a claim as the battery is two years into a three year warranty. Interesting that the warranty is now two years!
In any event, I'm not comfortable taking such a distorted battery into the bush and I'm not now comfortable with Optima, so I immediately sourced an SSB HVT-50D AGM from the Victorian distributor Hollyhock Batteries Plus in Carrum Downs. I spoke with the MD, Phil, who is happy to consider doing a deal with AULRO members.
I'll be emailing Phil with a link to this and other related threads and we'll see if he wants to get involved.
In the meantime, I topped up the SSB overnight and fitted it this morning. One advantage for D3/4 use as a second battery is that you can remove the posts and simply bolt the Traxide cables (i.e remove the clamps) directly to where the posts were.
I'm also considering re-setting the ABG-25 Low Voltage Cut-out module from 11.6v to 11.8v (>30% SoC). Other options are 12.0v (>40%) and 12.3v (>60%).
I'll update this thread with how the warranty claim goes.

[DieselLSE]

Hi there, sorry to cast up an old post but it wouldn't let me DM you.

I have the same issue with the D31a yellowtop. Not a deep cycle. But it seems to have drained and I'm being told by the supplier that it was battery abuse. Tbf, I'm not aware of anything that would have drained it with my setup and surely this battery with all its claims would hold up more than ine discharge. Considering it was treated the same way as the car, like a big expensive baby.

As soon as it hit the two year mark. Problems started occurring.

Did you ever get any answer or resolution with your battery issue?

Nup. They rejected the claim and I retired the Optima from vehicle use. But I have it in use on Sunday Island where it is one of a (non-linked) group of batteries powering my little cabin via two solar panels and controllers. Optima is going fine, but it is not stressed. The SSB HVT-50D started failing middle of last year, so I replaced it with a SSB HVT-70 and also replaced the Varta G14, but I probably didn't need to as it is still testing well. I also received an updated US-160 controller from Tim at Traxide as the one I had was also playing up. I did all this before my Simpson Desert trip for obvious reasons!

[RANDLOVER]

Nup. They rejected the claim and I retired the Optima from vehicle use. But I have it in use on Sunday Island where it is one of a (non-linked) group of batteries powering my little cabin via two solar panels and controllers. Optima is going fine, but it is not stressed. The SSB HVT-50D started failing middle of last year, so I replaced it with a SSB HVT-70 and also replaced the Varta G14, but I probably didn't need to as it is still testing well. I also received an updated US-160 controller from Tim at Traxide as the one I had was also playing up. I did all this before my Simpson Desert trip for obvious reasons!

In case you are looking for another reason not to get an Optima, the L-shaped D3/4 +ve battery terminal won't fit it as the battery posts are further from the edge of the case, unlike in my D2 which was just a cable, so I was able to swap the old battery out and Optima in when the starting battery died suddenly.