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Eric SDV6SE
18th March 2020, 04:33 PM
Dear Brains trust,

I see this has been covered elsewhere on AULRO, but has anyone here used the CEM range of products, including the fuel additives and de-decarbonizer?

I'd be interested to know if this would be beneficial, especially to some of us "high milers" (160-200,000 km plus).

I'm currently using penrite engine flush before an oil change, and the occaisional bottle of penrite diesel injector clean, with no ill effects so far.

Coming up to 200,000km on original EGRs and manifolds.

PerthDisco
18th March 2020, 06:00 PM
I like to think of 200,000km as ‘just run in’.

DiscoJeffster
18th March 2020, 06:10 PM
I think it’s all snake oil and should rest with Brocky’s crystals, but hey, if you’ve got the money to spend, then it’s your choice what you do with it.

Eric SDV6SE
18th March 2020, 07:26 PM
I think it’s all snake oil and should rest with Brocky’s crystals, but hey, if you’ve got the money to spend, then it’s your choice what you do with it.

Hence the query...

josh.huber
18th March 2020, 07:33 PM
Been bagged for it before, but yes, I use and recommend their products to others. I use FTC and CRD Enhancer in my D4 and dad's Dmax, I use the flush and anti wear also.

The FTC and CRD Enhancer I always use together, seen the benefit in my D4 dad's Dmax, work Hilux X3 , mates LC79, the Toyota's needed injectors outside of warranty and settled down. The Dmax was idling terrible and settled down. Reported better fuel economy to. Not on the guage but at the bowser. Also used FTC to deglaze a screaming GM (Detroit 2 stroke) and stop fuel bug on a cat c9 with a 2000l tank.
However if you have water or bug the hands down best option is BC250 from fuel treat Australia (another story).

The anti wear is in my pulsar manual gearbox. Noticeable improvement especially when cold.

Flush used everytime I service a family car. Just because it's flush.

The main reason I CRD Enhancer in the D4 is after seeing it lubricate the injectors in Toyota's, I figured I may be able to dodge the sticky valve in the HPFP on my car. Considering it uses about 8ml per tank or whatever. It's cheap insurance.

The FTC cleaned out the tail pipe so much the first two tanks left door on the back of the car. Thought I had an oil leak.

Been using it for about 4 years now.

josh.huber
18th March 2020, 07:35 PM
It won't help your manifolds, but maybe your EGR and turbos.. Dad swears by the fuel economy and the fact he doesn't need 4 new injectors

DiscoJeffster
18th March 2020, 07:38 PM
And touch wood - my D4 uses “****” fuel, the previous owner ran up to 30,000km on some services, and while I proactively did bearings on it recently as it had excessive end float, has had no flushes, uses whatever oil, and is not far off 300,000km. So yeah. You can use all the stuff in the world, but depending on your expectations of it’s life, I’m not sure it’s warranted.

Again, each to their own.

Eric SDV6SE
18th March 2020, 08:44 PM
Thanks for the responses so far. After seeing the sec turbo wastegate fully clogged with carbon, and having cleaned out manifolds (as much as is reachable anyway) and the throttle body several times, keen de coke the engine.

josh.huber
18th March 2020, 09:08 PM
If your going down the FTC or anything you add to the fuel route, wax the rear of the car first. Makes it easier to clean.
Remembering the fuel circuit is separate from the air circuit.
Cleaning the fuel up will only help the exhaust side of the turbo system. Which is great, especially since that's where the vanes live.
Have you had the oil drain mod done?
Clean air filters keep turbos from sucking oil through the seals, and therefore adding oil to the inlet side.

The right oil level is key to. I only put in 5.6L in at a change, to much oil is way worse then not enough.

DiscoJeffster
18th March 2020, 09:16 PM
to[sic] much oil is way worse then[sic] not enough.

Well there’s extremes on both sides. No oil is bad. Oil to the brim is bad. Oil to between the min and max is what the engine is designed for. Fill the engine to within the levels.

josh.huber
18th March 2020, 09:28 PM
The Sky is blue

Geedublya
19th March 2020, 06:28 AM
The Sky is blue

No it's not...[bigsmile1]

rar110
19th March 2020, 07:52 AM
I use the CEM products and my 3.6 tdv8 has nearly 300,000km, bought it at 230,000km.

I like their oil flush in particular. The oils stays clean for ages. Previously the oil would be black within 20km of a change.

I’ve been using a range of fuel treatments for ages. So haven’t noticed a massive change, as the motor has always run well.

Eric SDV6SE
19th March 2020, 06:32 PM
If your going down the FTC or anything you add to the fuel route, wax the rear of the car first. Makes it easier to clean.
Remembering the fuel circuit is separate from the air circuit.
Cleaning the fuel up will only help the exhaust side of the turbo system. Which is great, especially since that's where the vanes live.
Have you had the oil drain mod done?
Clean air filters keep turbos from sucking oil through the seals, and therefore adding oil to the inlet side.

The right oil level is key to. I only put in 5.6L in at a change, to much oil is way worse then not enough.

Turbo drain mod done
A dirty air filter traps more dirt than a clean one, (to a point of course) but new air filter at last service some 8000km ago.
Oil level is as per e-dip stick, scantool reports 5.3l not sure how accurate that is, but e-dipstick level is correct.

DiscoJeffster
19th March 2020, 06:40 PM
A dirty air filter traps more dirt than a clean one, (to a point of course)

Well no. A dirty air filter always traps more dirt. The problem is when it’s dirty to the point it’s affecting flow and causing a pressure drop. Filtering is still amazing, but engine efficiency is suffering.

I guess you could argue that at that point of low flow it’s not trapping as it’s not flowing [emoji2]

josh.huber
19th March 2020, 08:02 PM
Well no. A dirty air filter always traps more dirt. The problem is when it’s dirty to the point it’s affecting flow and causing a pressure drop. Filtering is still amazing, but engine efficiency is suffering.

I guess you could argue that at that point of low flow it’s not trapping as it’s not flowing [emoji2]

Hail Mary!!!! There is a God!! We agree!!!

"Discojeffster is correct 100%"

Filtration is measured on flow through a filter, unobstructed. That's what makes a good filter. Good air filters can be measured against cheap air filters by the beta ratio.


A dirty air filter simply holds bigger particles further away from the paper. This helps it clog even quicker. When truck drivers used to tell me this I had a brilliant flyer from Donaldson. It used to ask them not to change they're oil filters and fuel filters. Same principle different medium.
Dirty fuel filter chokes fuel system. Cavitation, wear. Overheating.
Dirty oil filter. Wear. Bypass valve open, so dirty oil, heat.

8000ks on an air filter is fine. Especially for a road driven vehicle.

Common misconception!

DiscoJeffster
19th March 2020, 08:05 PM
[emoji2][emoji8][emoji3059]
Just this once Josh. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

PerthDisco
19th March 2020, 09:54 PM
Hail Mary!!!! There is a God!! We agree!!!

"Discojeffster is correct 100%"

Filtration is measured on flow through a filter, unobstructed. That's what makes a good filter. Good air filters can be measured against cheap air filters by the beta ratio.


A dirty air filter simply holds bigger particles further away from the paper. This helps it clog even quicker. When truck drivers used to tell me this I had a brilliant flyer from Donaldson. It used to ask them not to change they're oil filters and fuel filters. Same principle different medium.
Dirty fuel filter chokes fuel system. Cavitation, wear. Overheating.
Dirty oil filter. Wear. Bypass valve open, so dirty oil, heat.

8000ks on an air filter is fine. Especially for a road driven vehicle.

Common misconception!

Surely in pure city driving with the occasional tap out a year or even two is an easy stretch for such a large filter as the D3? I’m a service nut but I’ve never ever sensed even the slightest restriction or black smoking from a filter. Even after prolonged dusty driving.

DiscoJeffster
19th March 2020, 09:56 PM
Surely in pure city driving with the occasional tap out a year or even two is an easy stretch for such a large filter as the D3? I’m a service nut but I’ve never ever sensed even the slightest restriction or black smoking from a filter. Even after prolonged dusty driving.

I change mine before factory but probably 30k km at least.