Oil level - forced reading

[PeterJ]

Hi all, in the workshop manual it states that you can force the oil level measurement system to take a measurement if it has decided it doesn't want to. Petulant bloody thing it is[wink11]
Anyhow, I tried to get mine to do it the other day and it did not work, recalcitrant it is indeed. So, the question is, have others used it and got it to work. I did think that it may be a feature of earlier models that my workshop manual refers to and was deleted from my 12/2013 version......but, for those wondering, you access the service menu and oil level as normal, if you don't get a reading then press the cruise control "cancel" button for 2 seconds. This backs you out of the oil level menu and (allegedly) forces the car to take a measurement, which is duly displayed when you go back into the oil level menu. Or perhaps this is the fix :wallbash:

Peter

[kelvo]

The bonnet also has to be open for that to work.

[INter674]

Same for me..could not get it to force read on the V6 petrol engine 2014 D4...bonnet open etc.

Also if the car is slightly out of level it gives a false reading. We used a hoist to lift the front then the back and even with a slight lift of say 3" from level on the front the reading went from ok to add .5l.

Stupid system indeed.

[josh.huber]

Same for me..could not get it to force read on the V6 petrol engine 2014 D4...bonnet open etc.

Also if the car is slightly out of level it gives a false reading. We used a hoist to lift the front then the back and even with a slight lift of say 3" from level on the front the reading went from ok to add .5l.

Stupid system indeed.

So does a dipstick, all engines state they must be level.
Mine used to work on the screen, But from memory didn't last oil service about a week ago. I just thought it was me and moved on. I just went out shed and tried again. Won't work. I have recently used the gap tool and upgraded the instrument cluster. I guess that's the issue.

I guess the issue is if people use the function and don't wait the time they are told. They will overfill the engine and it'll "diesel" and go bang.

[INter674]

So does a dipstick, all engines state they must be level.
Mine used to work on the screen, But from memory didn't last oil service about a week ago. I just thought it was me and moved on. I just went out shed and tried again. Won't work. I have recently used the gap tool and upgraded the instrument cluster. I guess that's the issue.

I guess the issue is if people use the function and don't wait the time they are told. They will overfill the engine and it'll "diesel" and go bang.

Yes perhaps I am old school but i am smart enoug to read a dip stick which is usually placed in the sump of the sump if you know what I mean and is not so affected by levelling and which usually has range on it. The Ford system is too sensitive in my view...but I have learnd now to be less alarmed by the add .5l message cause next time I check it says OK😎

Give me a dip stick any day ..

[DiscoJeffster]

Hmm. I’ve used many a rubbish dipstick too that doesn’t show levels well and the first pull up to wipe clean coats the tube so that the subsequent pull is contaminated and unclear. The MK5 golf of my mum’s is awful for that. I like the electronic protection of the sensor but agree, if also like a dipstick for manual verification if needed. I’ve lost a dry sump engine to an oil leak once. If it had electronic level sensing I’d have saved it, so I see the need for both.

[josh.huber]

Sorry Inter was a quick reply, didn't read before i posted can see how it reads now, [smilebigeye]

What i should have said was it depends on where the sensor or the dipstick is that makes all the difference, if the stick is say at the timing case and you raise the rear a little it makes a huge difference on the stick, Yes i am with you, a stick would be nice and simple and the addition of the electronic system as jeffster says can be a nice safe guard .
Franna cranes for example have both and the operators pretty much only use the screen each day.

These things if overfilled like all modern engines fill the inlets and run to explosion, there was a famous case i read about on here. The system needs time to drain and if people dont wait they may overfill the engine, But those same people should not be servicing an engine if they can understand the heads need time to drain.

[Discodicky]

I changed the oil/filter on mine t'other day and wasn't paying attention (counting) the number litres I refilled. After starting it the penny dropped and I realised it was overfull by 2 litres. Checked the oil level but sensor wouldn't display. Drained the 2 litres and re-checked and sensor still wouldn't display. Next day all was ok and it worked fine. Prior to that have not had any problems as its always worked when asked.

[josh.huber]

I changed the oil/filter on mine t'other day and wasn't paying attention (counting) the number litres I refilled. After starting it the penny dropped and I realised it was overfull by 2 litres. Checked the oil level but sensor wouldn't display. Drained the 2 litres and re-checked and sensor still wouldn't display. Next day all was ok and it worked fine. Prior to that have not had any problems as its always worked when asked.

You got really lucky

[DiscoJeffster]

You got really lucky

I always fill to the max and a little plus and have never had an issue. Typically massive overfill the issue is because the rods and crank end up trying to run through an oil bath which they were never designed, however that’s multiple litres of overfill. If you look at an engine design, it requires a lot of oil to seriously overfill it. More problems come from increased crankcase pressure blowing seals thanks to cranks and rods/pistons trying to run in a bath of oil

[kenl]

I always forget that I have the bonnet switch bypassed so even with the bonnet open, it's closed... according to the car.

[josh.huber]

I always fill to the max and a little plus and have never had an issue. Typically massive overfill the issue is because the rods and crank end up trying to run through an oil bath which they were never designed, however that’s multiple litres of overfill. If you look at an engine design, it requires a lot of oil to seriously overfill it. More problems come from increased crankcase pressure blowing seals thanks to cranks and rods/pistons trying to run in a bath of oil
your right the rods bend when they push the pistons out the side, its a self oil lowering measure built into engines with negative pressure sumps. the problem is after the piston comes out and lowers the oil a little you cant get them back in, there worse then plastic clips

[josh.huber]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200418/4298547d5787a172efe4d727a4be0a59.jpg

I posted this elsewhere yesterday and it's what I have followed. From shell lube guide. Isn't on there anymore. But it's reference for those interested

[DiscoJeffster]

And the workshop manual version
Note car must be in Park, bonnet must be open, engine not started, ignition on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200418/03b9229c0902c78ee66e2088c34e526d.plist
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200418/98ab29e575750ee3c0460045ae8257db.plist
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200418/ed41532936403122a98ae699b1cae167.plist