LR4 Smart Key Not Found, No Power on Centre Console, A/C, Dash, Speedo, Tacho

[3Voiz]

Good day all. I’m new to the forum but I've been browsing and learning from your very helpful and knowledgeable insights for years. Thank you very much for that.

I have been searching the internet for many days now. I saw some similar threads about this issue here but so far, I didn't find a solution that worked for me so I decided to post a new thread. I need your help and inputs, please.

My 2009 MY10 Land Rover Discovery 4 3.0D is showing the dreaded “Smart Key Not Found” in the info centre and cannot be started normally. The fault has since worsened to having no power on the centre console (touchscreen), A/C (Climate control), dashboard (is blackout, no LR4 image), speedometer and tachometer are not working. Headlights and cabin lights remained working.

I can still start it when I place the key FOB in the right spot under the steering column. When the engine is running, headlights, signal lights, wiper, power windows and power door locks all work. The battery is only a year old and is confirmed healthy with 12.6 Volts.

This car has only done 55K Kms. Very well kept, it’s always parked inside my garage and has never been off-road. I have not washed it recently, it has no sunroof, did not wade into waters, not been rain soaked so it’s all “dry” and therefore, has not much water-ingress probability. I have no rear a/c unit that might cramp/press any medium speed CAN bus wires at the back.

Here are what I have tried so far with no success:



Pulled out, check/confirmed healthy and put back passenger compartment fuses 17, 37, 61, 62, 68. I have not pulled out any fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.
Disconnected positive (+) cable of battery then reconnected after 2 minutes
Disconnected and shorted the battery leads for + 10 minutes to drain residual charge and “reset” car computer system
Disconnected the battery for more than an hour, reconnected
Cleaned and tightened the earth (ground) wire behind the front cabin lights
Wiggled and arranged wire looms in battery bay, nothing out of the ordinary there
Lock/unlock the car using the steel blade key in the FOB. Only the left front door (where the keyhole is) locks. All the other doors stay open meaning power door locks are not working when the engine is not running
Started and stopped the engine a number of times placing the key fob under the steering column


I don’t know what else to try for. The dealership is 60 Kms. away. I’d like to have the dashboard and central console working again before I go there so I can drive safely with functioning speedometer, tachometer, indicator lights, info centre, etc. I understand I can use my phone’s GPS app as an alternate speedometer.

Any help, inputs, tips, advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[scarry]

Sorry i can't help with the issue,but going to the dealer will certainly a very expensive exercise.

I would try a good local Indie.

Good luck.

[Ferret]

Give Autocode (https://www.autocode.com.au/) a ring and have a talk with them over the phone. I'd go there for D4 electrical / ecu problems before a dealer.

[ATH]

Give Darren at Aztech4x4 a ring or Dave Dover at Dovers Rovers and one of them if not both will give you good advice.
Cheers.
AlanH.

[3Voiz]

Thanks, Ferret and AllanH. I'll do that.

[Graeme]

When was the battery 12.6V - eg ignition off or engine running?

[3Voiz]

When was the battery 12.6V - eg ignition off or engine running?

Hi Graeme. I measured the voltage in the battery again and it's 12.9V when ignition is off and 14.7V when engine is running. The car starts easily when I place the smart key in the raised ridges under the steering column, no problem.

I can drive it but I cannot lock the doors when I park as the blade key only locks the front left door which has the keyhole.

[rocket rod]

Try your second key or change the battery in the key fob?

[3Voiz]

Hi Rod. Yup, I've done that. Replaced both key fob batteries with new CR2032 but still showing Smart Key Not Found.

I'll have another go in looking for any short circuiting wire to ground/earth.

[Graeme]

Do you have another vehicle and jumper leads so that you can raise your battery voltage without your engine running to see if the higher voltage makes any difference?

Do you have a volt-meter to check voltages at fuses for the affected components to see if its a positive supply problem or an earth problem?

I suspect a poor earth somewhere, perhaps at one of the earth bolts behind the covers at the base of the A pillars. Those covers are readily removed - pull the door seal away, lift the tread plate, on the driver's side remove the panel above the pedals then slide the panel rearwards.

[3Voiz]

Thanks for replying, Graeme. I charged my battery with a Ctek 5A charger for a day and it came up to 12.92V. Still no change. I do have another car and jumper leads and I'll try your suggestion later.

I also connected my Bosch C7 battery charger which has a power supply feature to the leads and disconnected the battery (to take it out of the picture, in case it's bad) and still no change.

I also removed the battery from the bay and arranged all wiring, pushing connectors to ensure they firmly connected. The battery has 12V on it, disconnected from the car. I hooked up the battery again. I also found a grounding point in front of the battery with 2 wires on it. I loosened it, cleaned then re-tightened. With fingers crossed, I hopped inside the car only to be frustrated because all of that didn't change anything.

I pulled out both A pillars but did not find any earthing connection there.

I do have a voltmeter. How do I check if it's a positive supply problem or an earth problem on the fuses?

I started the car a few times today placing the smart key in the raised ridges under the steering column with no problem. Engine easily cranks, then starts. The display in the console (with the, LR4 image, coolant temp, fuel gauge, etc.) came back a couple of times so I was happy thinking that it might be the start of something good. But after I stopped the engine and re-start, it's gone again.

[3Voiz]

I started the car with the key fob under the steering column then I removed Fuse 17 (5A Tan, Keyless entry/start, central door locking) and the central console touchscreen, dash, speedo, tacho and a/c all came back on. The a/c is blowing but the climate control still has no power (no lights. no indication, controls not working).

I measured the voltage in Fuse 17 terminals with the negative lead of the multi-tester on the door bolts for ground. One terminal has 14.25V on it while the other terminal has 1.8V. I measured the other vacant fuse slots and one terminal has 14.25V on it while the other terminal has 0.008V. So something is feeding power to the other side of F17.

I put back the fuse in F17 and the central console touchscreen, dash, speedo, tacho and a/c all tripped again right away. Removing the fuse brings them back again after maybe 2 minutes.

There's definitely a problem with the F17 circuit like it's shorting or grounded. I don't know where to start looking. I read somewhere about a KVM so I'll start Googling.

[Mungus]

I had a very similar issue at 1week old. It was the canbus intermittently shorting to earth below the rear aircon unit. I don’t know how to insert a link to my thread but if you search my posts you will find it. Similar title to yours.
thread title “No Brake lts/Hazards etc on Auto H/Lts + Long Hard Reset

[3Voiz]

Do you have another vehicle and jumper leads so that you can raise your battery voltage without your engine running to see if the higher voltage makes any difference?

Do you have a volt-meter to check voltages at fuses for the affected components to see if its a positive supply problem or an earth problem?

I suspect a poor earth somewhere, perhaps at one of the earth bolts behind the covers at the base of the A pillars. Those covers are readily removed - pull the door seal away, lift the tread plate, on the driver's side remove the panel above the pedals then slide the panel rearwards.

I found out that whenever I pull out Fuse 17 (Keyless entry/start, central door locking) in the passenger compartment fuse box, the centre console (touchscreen), A/C (Climate control), dashboard (infocentre), speedometer and tachometer start working again. They turn off again if I put F17 back in.

I checked F17 voltages. There's 14.2V in one terminal and 12.8V in the other. There's no continuity across it.

So that I can use the car with the touchscreen, a/c, dash, instruments working, I did not put back F17 for now. I can start the LR4 with the key fob underneath the steering column then lock it using the key blade in the keyhole in the front passenger side.

[3Voiz]

I had a very similar issue at 1week old. It was the canbus intermittently shorting to earth below the rear aircon unit. I don’t know how to insert a link to my thread but if you search my posts you will find it. Similar title to yours.
thread title “No Brake lts/Hazards etc on Auto H/Lts + Long Hard Reset


Thanks, Mungus. Yeah, I've read your post but I have no rear a/c as my LR 4 was built on Oct 2009. I did try tracing wires and checking/tightening grounds/earths. There's a few in the foot well of the front passenger side below the fuse box and I tightened them all to no avail.

I read somewhere that there's an earth point beneath the front cabin lights and even though it's spotless, I still cleaned and re-tightened it, checked the continuity, too, but also didn't do anything.

I wonder what's wrong as the car has been barely used at all. I'd like to solve this myself and I have tried everything I found in the internet but nothing fixed the issue. Looks like I'm on my way to the recommended Indies by fellow forumers here in Perth.

[Tedio]

I had a very similar issue at 1week old. It was the canbus intermittently shorting to earth below the rear aircon unit. I don’t know how to insert a link to my thread but if you search my posts you will find it. Similar title to yours.
thread title “



Like Mungus said, I had similar issues and the same sort of lost functions. Traced it to a short affecting canbus.

Ted

[3Voiz]

Like Mungus said, I had similar issues and the same sort of lost functions. Traced it to a short affecting canbus.

Ted
Hi Ted. Where did you find the short?

[3Voiz]

Do you have another vehicle and jumper leads so that you can raise your battery voltage without your engine running to see if the higher voltage makes any difference?

Do you have a volt-meter to check voltages at fuses for the affected components to see if its a positive supply problem or an earth problem?

I suspect a poor earth somewhere, perhaps at one of the earth bolts behind the covers at the base of the A pillars. Those covers are readily removed - pull the door seal away, lift the tread plate, on the driver's side remove the panel above the pedals then slide the panel rearwards.

I found out that if I remove fuse F17 (Keyless entry/start, central door locking), then the touchscreen, A/C, dashboard console, speedo & tachometer will start working again. If I put it back in, then they'll turn off again.

The fuse F17 itself is okay. I tested it using a multi-meter. I also measured the voltages in the terminals. One has 14.5V and the other has 12.7V. The terminals have no continuity across.

I wiggled/arranged the wire looms in the battery bay and also in the passenger compartment fuse box. Nothing obvious there. I didn't find any earths in the A pillar. I found a few in the foot well on the front passenger side and cleaned/tightened them. They are all dry as this car has never been off-road or waded through water. I read somewhere that there's an earth beneath the front cabin light so I looked for it. Even though it's spotless, I still cleaned and re-tightened it. All of these to no avail. Every time I chuck in F17, I'll lose the power on the touchscreen, A/C & dashboard console again.

I left F17 out for now so that I can use the car, starting it with the key fob underneath the steering column and when parked, locking it using the key blade.

[3Voiz]

I had a very similar issue at 1week old. It was the canbus intermittently shorting to earth below the rear aircon unit. I don’t know how to insert a link to my thread but if you search my posts you will find it. Similar title to yours.
thread title “No Brake lts/Hazards etc on Auto H/Lts + Long Hard Reset


Thanks, Mungus. Yeah, I've read your post before I started this thread. Only thing is I don't have a rear a/c.

I wanted to solve this problem myself and I hope I can find the fault but I've tried everything that I have Googled and nothing worked. Kudos to AULRO. AULRO has a lot of hits in Google and has tons of useful info. Thanks a lot.

I read somewhere that the Keyless entry Vehicle Module (KVM) might be faulty and I'm already concerned at the repair/replacement costs. I hope it's not the case.

I wish it's just a short circuit somewhere. I've been troubleshooting for the past 3 days and I'll try again tomorrow. if I can't fix it, then I'll be off to the recommended Indies here in Perth by our fellow forumers.

[Graeme]

If you know where the keyless entry module is located, with F17 fitted can you unplug its 2 door handle and 2 door lock connectors one at a time trying to determine whether the module or one of the door locks or handles or their wiring is the cause?

Do you have a wiring schematic?

[theelms66]

I think it's safe to say whatever runs off fuse 17 is a potential fault. You will need a power distribution diagram to determine everything that is powered off that fuse and isolate one at a time

[Graeme]

The KVM is the only user of fuse 17P.

The high voltage on the module side of the fuse-holder with the fuse removed is not necessarily an indication of a malfunction. If a light globe is connected to it the voltage may drop to nil.

The facilities that stop working with the fuse fitted are all the devices on the medium speed canbus. A faulty door lock or handle or its wiring could be causing the KVM to malfunction so unplugging those modules from the KVM would be necessary to exclude them as suspects.

[3Voiz]

The KVM is the only user of fuse 17P.

The high voltage on the module side of the fuse-holder with the fuse removed is not necessarily an indication of a malfunction. If a light globe is connected to it the voltage may drop to nil.

The facilities that stop working with the fuse fitted are all the devices on the medium speed canbus. A faulty door lock or handle or its wiring could be causing the KVM to malfunction so unplugging those modules from the KVM would be necessary to exclude them as suspects.

I found this in the internet. Item 6 is the KVM located in the roof at the middle of the car. I'll search on how to get to it.

I found a wiring diagram, too. I'm no expert on this but I can see what you mentioned that it's feeding the door switches and antennas.

Like what you said, if I can get to the KVM then I can unplug the modules one by one.

[Mungus]

3Voiz,
It appears you are on the right path. Process of elimination. Well done. Just a heads up not to discount a wiring loom section because wriggling it had no effect. If possible to disconnect the canbus wiring at the KVM module and end device, I would test each wires resistance and to confirm no continuity to earth, and visually inspect the wires at points of interest. I.e. where they pass through panels, are subject to movement/bending or are in located in tight spots and at termination points. I would be guessing it is highly likely the canbus wires, as the other wiring appears to actually switch to earth as a normal function. My canbus wire had the smallest split in it, very hard to see, but with the loom located in an obvious pinch point, a detailed closer inspection of the wiring in that loom section revealed the culprit wire defect.

Best of luck to you. Hope you or the Indy find whatever the fault is without too much dismantling.

Other than the fault itself, I was very much disappointed my 11 day old vehicle had almost all internal panels dismantled.

[josh.huber]

3Voiz,
It appears you are on the right path. Process of elimination. Well done. Just a heads up not to discount a wiring loom section because wriggling it had no effect. If possible to disconnect the canbus wiring at the KVM module and end device, I would test each wires resistance and to confirm no continuity to earth, and visually inspect the wires at points of interest. I.e. where they pass through panels, are subject to movement/bending or are in located in tight spots and at termination points. I would be guessing it is highly likely the canbus wires, as the other wiring appears to actually switch to earth as a normal function. My canbus wire had the smallest split in it, very hard to see, but with the loom located in an obvious pinch point, a detailed closer inspection of the wiring in that loom section revealed the culprit wire defect.

Best of luck to you. Hope you or the Indy find whatever the fault is without too much dismantling.

Other than the fault itself, I was very much disappointed my 11 day old vehicle had almost all internal panels dismantled.

The rear of my car flooded from a failed water bag a couple weeks ago. Under the rear seats, under the carpet are two antennas, the wiring looms for them would get damaged in my opinion if you didn't have rear seats.

[3Voiz]

The rear of my car flooded from a failed water bag a couple weeks ago. Under the rear seats, under the carpet are two antennas, the wiring looms for them would get damaged in my opinion if you didn't have rear seats.

Hi Josh. Are you referring to the third row seats? I'll look for these two antennas and check them.

I don't know where the KVM antennas are. I needed to find a drawing showing their locations`

[josh.huber]

Hi Josh. Are you referring to the third row seats? I'll look for these two antennas and check them.

I don't know where the KVM antennas are. I needed to find a drawing showing their locations`

Yeah mate under the third row seats, under the carpet, they are the KVM antennas. If you search on here I think "lukeis" has a post about smart key not found and someone put up the list of the antennas. There pretty close to the winch for the spare.

Good luck, there is a bit of information in the manuals that you can buy on here