Roof top tent - rack choice, install and overall layout for touring

[dukemasterpro]

Hi all,

Forum reader and have run out of answers for a few pre-trip outfitting puzzles so thought I’d put this out and try to find out if anyone’s got a great D4 roof rack setup to share that might help me finalise my setup for some planned outback travel now we can camp again in NSW and soon I hope Qld / SA.

We are pretty much committed to buying one of 2 soft shell roof top tents - one is 54kg, the other 58kg. Have ruled out Oztenting or swagging it for family comfort and setup / packdown for overnight stops.

Drifta also have a new hardshell tent out in about 8 weeks time which is too late for me but it's 160mm tall ( perfect height for my garage access ), can take accessories on top and the side extrusions, isn't iKamper cost or Alucab etc weight. Ideal but not available this month.

Camper trailer would solve this but upfront cost plus ongoing storage rules it out and storage or access from my rear lane would be tricky. Have tried to push an unhitched soft floor in and it wasn't easy for two people.

Already have a 1500x1375mm approx Pioneer Platform on low profile heavy duty mounts on the rear section of roof. This rack as its low height lives on the vehicle and as we have a cargo barrier fitted it comes in handy for IKEA trips and the like or to sling an awning on for weekend camping. I do like it.

However the more I’ve looked into roof top tent mounting the common theme is “installation headaches” using the Pioneer system ( involves drilling the platform and fiddle to take on or off so maybe an hour vs 15 mins ) vs Frontrunner platform or the very simple on/off using tent brackets and cross bars ( I have Vortex bars that would fit ).

Since we don’t have garage height access someone suggested the quick release style of Rhino mount and leave them plus the cross bars permanently fitted to swap between tent and platform for the daily drive.

These are the options - if anyone can suggest different very keen to see what’s out there.

Tent fitted to crossbars

Pro’s
-cost! Already have Vortex crossbars
-easy tent install and removal ( less time for the tent supplier to fiddle around )
-per above for weekend use can take the tent on and off. Local shopping centres no issue with the Pioneer stup
-can still fit an awning one side. open tent off the other
-overall weight Tent + crossbar + legs + awning and brackets = 71.55kg<stated 75kg dynamic roof load.

Con’s
-limited space to store accessories eg where to mount long shovel or Maxtrax if awning takes up one side, tent deployed the other side.
-Vortex bars - are they light to survive corrugations??

Tent fitted to platform

Pro's
-cost again as already have installed
-can mount awning no problem and tent off the driver side

Con’s
-adds approx 20kg to overall roof weight
-adds complexity to installation ( don’t really care about the holes drilled doesn’t make a difference when you can’t see it ) AND for DIY removal
-still not optimum ability to carry other items eg Maxtrax ( how essential are they for outback travel on main tracks - never used on two previous trips, not even on Fraser either but thats not on this plan ). Long shovel - again its been carried so maybe could get a portable 2 or 3 piece version to keep in the cargo area
-some space for small amount of firewood that might be available just outside a NP entrance. Do want to keep warm since July and August can be chill till we get north to Qld ( yes please )
-no space on the platform to temporarily mount a 20w solar panel to keep batteries topped up before we depart as the car won’t be parked anywhere near the garage
-weight 89.44

3rd option tent fitted 1/2 to platform positioned at the rear roof section and part to a 3rd crossbar on the lower roof section

Pro’s
-free’s up space on the platform to strap Maxtrax down ( east / west ) plus firewood carry
-50% easier install and removal as one set of RTT brackets are clamped on the crossbar
-space to fit a 20w solar panel to keep batteries topped up before we depart as the car won’t be parked anywhere near the garage

Con’s
-$$ - need the lower tracks, another set of mounts ( high rise plus maybe spacers to level it ). Approx $400 for parts and install of the Rhino bits
-$ - longer tent install time and still a pain to remove at home in the rear lane with time pressure. Might considers street removal and load tent onto a trolley to wheel back into the garage
-Weight 100kgs all up tent, platform, 3rd crossbar, mounts, awning, maxtrax.

Some things I haven’t looked at are if the tent can be deployed rearwards over the tailgate?

I’ve seen a post where someone has fitted a similar tent in the UK using taller front runner brackets and it clears the tailgate ok by the look of it. Either side of the vehicle could be used to mount the awning and shovel / recovery tracks other side. The D4 tailgate does sit fairly high and since the tent is 38cm tall, don’t really want to start raising the height of the rack itself for centre of gravity issues.
Land Rover Discovery 3 Roof Rack & Darche Roof Tent Fitting – Trek Overland Ltd (https://www.trekoverland.com/blogs/vehicle-preparations/land-rover-discovery-3-roof-rack-darche-roof-tent-fitting)


Using the rear wheel carrier ( Tyretrek with double jerry holder and a spare wheel )
The Maxxtrax could be perhaps mounted off the rear wheel carrier though I was planning on using a Drifta wheel bag with fire pit insert to carry rubbish and a 7kg fire pit. Have seen pics where people’s tyres have also been chewed up where the spikes on the board has been rubbing against. The newer harness has a rubber pad for protection.


Also not sure if the Pioneer platform can be stripped down a bit in weight two planks instead of 4??


Sorry long post, it’s a bit of a puzzle but an important one to get the right balance between practicality, cost, safety etc.

[Tombie]

Some things to consider:

I’ll add another con - 56kg + roof system exceeds roof rating.

Camper can still be an option if you consider a motorised jockey wheel to move it around eg. Get it in your back gate.

That 75kg+ also eats your GVM.

Once you pick the vehicle it’s highly likely you’ll be well over.

[dukemasterpro]

Some things to consider:

I’ll add another con - 56kg + roof system exceeds roof rating.

Camper can still be an option if you consider a motorised jockey wheel to move it around eg. Get it in your back gate.

That 75kg+ also eats your GVM.

Once you pick the vehicle it’s highly likely you’ll be well over.

Yeah been following your weighbridge post as well recently on the GVM topic.

No bullbar, winch or lights do have Drifta 2 drawer system, full height Autosafe barrier and Traxide D45U in the vehicle, fridge and slide. Approx 157kg in human mass to consider. It doesn't leave much. 3rd row seats could come out, might help a bit.

What's your take on dynamic roof limit - is it 75kg or 70kg for 2014 model?

[DieselLSE]

3rd row seats could come out, might help a bit.

What's your take on dynamic roof limit - is it 75kg or 70kg for 2014 model?
Definitely take out the third row seats. They would easily off-set the weight of your drawers. They weigh about the same as a spare wheel from memory. Very heavy for one person to lift. I weighed them, but forget now. Over 30Kg I think. Leaves heaps of space for odds and sods, but might be tricky to access under drawers.

161730

Maximum roof load is 75Kg. It's in the workshop manual.

[dukemasterpro]

Definitely take out the third row seats. They would easily off-set the weight of your drawers. They weigh about the same as a spare wheel from memory. Very heavy for one person to lift. I weighed them, but forget now. Over 30Kg I think. Leaves heaps of space for odds and sods, but might be tricky to access under drawers.

161730

Maximum roof load is 75Kg. It's in the workshop manual.

That’s a neat way to use that seat cavity like it! Might be tricky to access gear with the drawers in place without some sort of hatch or opening cut into the base.

The outfitter I spoke to suggested using that area for a custom made small water tank. The Drifta drawers have an access slot cut in to attach a tool to lower the spare rest is solid. I guess even if its empty the weight reduction is a plus. Definitely would ask them to remove the drawers since it’s a two man job at best.
I understand the drawers are 35kg and I weighed my spare wheel 36.4kg.

[DieselLSE]

That’s a neat way to use that seat cavity like it! Might be tricky to access gear with the drawers in place without some sort of hatch or opening cut into the base.

The outfitter I spoke to suggested using that area for a custom made small water tank. The Drifta drawers have an access slot cut in to attach a tool to lower the spare rest is solid. I guess even if its empty the weight reduction is a plus. Definitely would ask them to remove the drawers since it’s a two man job at best.
I understand the drawers are 35kg and I weighed my spare wheel 36.4kg.

A water bladder would be a good idea under the drawers. Probably get about 40L in there, weighing, wait for it... 40Kg.

[dukemasterpro]

A water bladder would be a good idea under the drawers. Probably get about 40L in there, weighing, wait for it... 40Kg.

Nice and low position in there but yeah more KG’s again.

[DieselLSE]

Nice and low position in there but yeah more KG’s again.
But only if you need to carry the water. If you needed it, you'd have to use jerry cans or whatever anyway. I remove as much dead weight as I can, including two second row seats for most bush trips. Mainly for the extra room, though. My chainsaw and box fit in there nicely and weigh significantly less than the removed seats.
I used to love the way you could chop and channel a Series Landrover to suit your requirements and I reckon the D4 is pretty much the same in that sense. Well, more like Lego or Tetris perhaps in that you can move things around a bit. And if you clear out the rear compartments, there's no end of things you can store in there: remove the tow ball carrier from the left side and the jack holder from the right side.

[LRD414]

How many people on the trip? Assuming all in the one RTT is your thinking?

Scott

[dukemasterpro]

Two adults one 4 nearly 5 years old child, all in one tent is the plan, will be quite cosy!

[DieselLSE]

Two adults one 4 nearly 5 years old child, all in one tent is the plan, will be quite cosy!
Then you can make heaps of room and save about 100Kg of weight by removing the third row seats and two of the second row seats. Or just one if there's a chance of needing to cater for another passenger. Many here locate their 40L or so fridge in the middle second row seat spot. Gives junior something to manage!

[scarry]

Our RTT sits on two Rhino roof bars that are on the vehicle all the time,on the higher roof section of the D4,using the shortest legs.

With the Foxwing Awning up there it sits around 20KG over the limit,but we have never had an issue.

Just a note,don't ever fit a Rhino bar to the lower section of roof,the wind noise won't take long to drive you crazy.On the higher roof section there is no noise at all.

[Odysseyman]

Nice and low position in there but yeah more KG’s again.

not forgetting the load on your rear axle - it’s often the first to reach its limit.

You might also like to have a look at the Gordigear RTT. They are at Southport Qld and sell worldwide. The Explorer Plus (165cm wide model) on your Vortex roof bars, open to the drivers side. Your shovel can mount to the drivers side of the bars and won’t be in the way. I’ve got that setup and it would sleep three of you easily. Fantastic quality product and very good to deal with. Spare parts if needed are readily available.

David

[dukemasterpro]

Then you can make heaps of room and save about 100Kg of weight by removing the third row seats and two of the second row seats. Or just one if there's a chance of needing to cater for another passenger. Many here locate their 40L or so fridge in the middle second row seat spot. Gives junior something to manage!

Middle seat might help, the little guy has a thing about having company in the back at times though he might just geta bit more iPad time to kill some of the time just for this trip.

I've seen pics of front runner tanks strapped to the seats in lieu of tie downs, whats it like to do that minus the seat itself?

[LRD414]

I made a platform to go in place of second row seats. You could make one that goes in place of just two seats. Then water bladder or tank under platform and other things on top. Each seat is between 20-25kg and my platform that went in place of all three weighed 10kg.

Scott

[glenn20869]

My 2014 D4 came second hand with LR crossbars running in the short track LR roof rails. Although I could fit a RTT and a Darche 270 awning to them, I felt it was an accident waiting to happen as I always remove them by myself between camping trips.
Thinking platforms, I quickly discounted the Rhino version due to their north south orientation and the Front Runner version due to their perimeter rails being raised compared to the top of their platform bars. This left the Yakima brand.
Talking with a Yakima rep at the 4WD Show in 2019, he advised that if I wanted to go full length with their platform E (1235x2130) then I could marry their platform to Rhino's Backbone rails as Yakima didn't have mounts to match the stepped roof profile of the D4. Although he assured me that the two simply bolted together, all the local suppliers were quite adamant that they wouldn't and I would have to drill or cut something which would void any warranty. Not being overly bothered about that, I bit the bullet and bought the two systems and low and behold, they simply bolted together like the Yakima rep had said!!! Installation was simple...

161861161862161863161864

To make the loading of the RTT very simple, I bought the Front Runner quick release brackets for their RTTs and platforms and the only mod I had to do was drill new bolt holes in the quick release brackets to match the spacing of the Yakima crossbars. The only issue I have with this setup is that it puts the RTT up higher than the original ladder was designed for but that is easily remedied via either modifying the existing ladder or swapping if for one of those telescoping ladders. I'm probably going to go with the latter as it gives more flexibility with sloping/uneven ground. In the mean time I simply adjust the cars ride height down.

161868161865161869

Finally I bought a 250L waterproof Ironman roof bag which fits perfectly in front of the RTT (see last picture). I use this to store the ground sheets, folding table and chairs. That pretty much takes up the entire platform and the total weight would be 57 (RTT) + 22 (awning) + ~15 (loaded bag) = 94kg so over the limit by nearly 20kg. Not great I know but I drive with care and everything is very well secured.

161871161870

Cheers :)

[AlexRS4]

Following with interest. Have you made a call? I'm looking at adding a roof top tent to my D4 and a 270 awning (30 second or batwing). I already have 2 bars on the rear so could use that, could go a Rhino platform, or could go another route.

For tent I'm looking at a hard shell and keen to get something lightweight and relatively stylish - the iKamper seems like a good option.

I'm less concerned about $ and more about the looks and weight. I don't want a 'bodged' looking job done.

But I am concerned about GVM and roof weight. I'm already running 3x batteries, drawers, ARB bar, winch with dyneema, Kaymar rear bar and single wheel carrier, LRA long range tank, snorkel, cargo barrier, sometimes a shingleback bike rack and the usual electrical bits for towing, compressor, UHF etc. Add in 2 adults, 190L of fuel, fridge etc and I am a tad scared to look at the weight.

3rd row seats are gone, at least.

[scarry]

Following with interest. Have you made a call? I'm looking at adding a roof top tent to my D4 and a 270 awning (30 second or batwing). I already have 2 bars on the rear so could use that, could go a Rhino platform, or could go another route.

For tent I'm looking at a hard shell and keen to get something lightweight and relatively stylish - the iKamper seems like a good option.

I'm less concerned about $ and more about the looks and weight. I don't want a 'bodged' looking job done.

But I am concerned about GVM and roof weight. I'm already running 3x batteries, drawers, ARB bar, winch with dyneema, Kaymar rear bar and single wheel carrier, LRA long range tank, snorkel, cargo barrier, sometimes a shingleback bike rack and the usual electrical bits for towing, compressor, UHF etc. Add in 2 adults, 190L of fuel, fridge etc and I am a tad scared to look at the weight.

3rd row seats are gone, at least.

Good chance you will be over....
The only thing to do is put it on the scales,i would do it before investing in the tent.As i said,earlier in this thread,our roof load is often 20Kg over with no issues.
Mine doesn't have half those mods,and is very close to GVm when touring,and there is only two of us.
Although we do carry quite a bit of photography gear that is heavy,and often 3 rifles,and gear for them.Together these add a fair bit of weight.We also usually carry one jerry of fuel.ANd all the usual camping gear,water,tools,etc.

[DiscoMick]

Definitely remove as many seats as possible to save weight.
Re drawers, consider ordering a short drawer to leave space behind it under the floor, where a battery or water container can be hidden out of sight, getting the weight down low.
I saw a D3 with a compact ARB rooftop tent that looked both light and functional a while back, but I don't have details. Maybe on the ARB website.
A solar battery charger can be sat inside the vehicle on the dashboard.

[dukemasterpro]

Following with interest. Have you made a call? I'm looking at adding a roof top tent to my D4 and a 270 awning (30 second or batwing). I already have 2 bars on the rear so could use that, could go a Rhino platform, or could go another route.

For tent I'm looking at a hard shell and keen to get something lightweight and relatively stylish - the iKamper seems like a good option.

I'm less concerned about $ and more about the looks and weight. I don't want a 'bodged' looking job done.

But I am concerned about GVM and roof weight. I'm already running 3x batteries, drawers, ARB bar, winch with dyneema, Kaymar rear bar and single wheel carrier, LRA long range tank, snorkel, cargo barrier, sometimes a shingleback bike rack and the usual electrical bits for towing, compressor, UHF etc. Add in 2 adults, 190L of fuel, fridge etc and I am a tad scared to look at the weight.

3rd row seats are gone, at least.

Nearly! Fridge and slide showed up this week along with the Tuffant winder so the outfitting can begin.

The payload weight of 745kg is pretty average once you add back all the touring essentials and passengers. My thoughts on what I choose are now being influenced by keeping within the roof and payload limits whilst still being comfortable.

2nd row seats will have to stay, smaller tent than 100% ideal etc. Everything's a compromise, perhaps ignorance of weight was a bliss and fine if with all the additional weight everything goes well.

Dropping the vehicle off later this week after I get the 72 month service done ( few months ahead of time ) and will discuss the guys doing the install and other bits ( extra anderson off the rear traxide , tuffant winder, UHF / Antenna install - cheers LRD414 for the great how-to pics exactly what I want )

RTT Feldon Crows Nest regular as its lower weight 54vs 58kg, cost, setup time. Not sure the covered entrance on the Extended tent is 100% worth it and already have an awning room for the ARB awning.

The Vortex bars that were gathering dust in the garage are now back on the roof ( using same Rhino RLTP low profile legs but I might get the quick release version ).That should equate to a very simple and fast tent install to the crossbars. Discovered that the brackets I'd had on the awning attached to the Pioneer platform where the Foxwing brackets (pretty heavy 619g each vs Rhino Universal brackets 205g ). I didnt pick these when I'd got the awning a while back so it was interesting to see the difference in size / weight ). Every little helps!

ARB 2x2.5m Awning on the passenger side, rear opening tent and shovel on the right is the planned setup.

Will update when complete. Still thinking about the 3rd row removal, that will require someting for the Drifta drawers to rest on. Not searched for that modification yet....

re: Shingleback rack AlexRS4 - been eyeing those off for a while as my Yakima holdup 2 wobbles a bit at the hinge and the arm tension keeps coming loose. Do you have a Mitch Hitch?? Wondering how the height of a vertical rack works with this? Obviously old LR plough would sit the rack a lot lower.

[dukemasterpro]

Definitely remove as many seats as possible to save weight.
Re drawers, consider ordering a short drawer to leave space behind it under the floor, where a battery or water container can be hidden out of sight, getting the weight down low.
I saw a D3 with a compact ARB rooftop tent that looked both light and functional a while back, but I don't have details. Maybe on the ARB website.
A solar battery charger can be sat inside the vehicle on the dashboard.

Ha ha I'm always seeing tents on vehicles since I've been in decision making mode. The ARB one is 69kg or thereabouts. With one of the 2nd row out what did you use as a tie down point? Our middle row has always been the space for bedding, soft stuff using the seatbelts to restrain. Hard items in the rear behind the barrier.

[scarry]

Does the RTT weight include bedding?

Ours is 65kg,plus bedding.We leaving the bedding in,it’s only additional doona and two pillows,but it adds up.
Certainly more convenient in the RTT, ready to go than being in the vehicle,but adds to roof load.
Then we have Foxwing,an additional 19 KG.

Over,but no issues.

[dukemasterpro]

Does the RTT weight include bedding?

Ours is 65kg,plus bedding.We leaving the bedding in,it’s only additional doona and two pillows,but it adds up.
Certainly more convenient in the RTT, ready to go than being in the vehicle,but adds to roof load.
Then we have Foxwing,an additional 19 KG.

Over,but no issues.

54kg without bedding Roof top Tent - The Crow&#39;s Nest 2-Man - Feldon Shelter | Feldon Shelter (https://www.feldonshelter.com/collections/premium-roof-top-living/products/crows-nest-regular-rooftop-tent-green)

Summer camping = minimal bedding, a sheet, doona cover. Winter, yep bit more. Yet to weigh what we'll take but probably doona, fitted sheet, sheet, blanket and pillows. Pillows will stay in the car with the blanket.

[AlexRS4]

Nearly! Fridge and slide showed up this week along with the Tuffant winder so the outfitting can begin.

The payload weight of 745kg is pretty average once you add back all the touring essentials and passengers. My thoughts on what I choose are now being influenced by keeping within the roof and payload limits whilst still being comfortable.

2nd row seats will have to stay, smaller tent than 100% ideal etc. Everything's a compromise, perhaps ignorance of weight was a bliss and fine if with all the additional weight everything goes well.

Dropping the vehicle off later this week after I get the 72 month service done ( few months ahead of time ) and will discuss the guys doing the install and other bits ( extra anderson off the rear traxide , tuffant winder, UHF / Antenna install - cheers LRD414 for the great how-to pics exactly what I want )

RTT Feldon Crows Nest regular as its lower weight 54vs 58kg, cost, setup time. Not sure the covered entrance on the Extended tent is 100% worth it and already have an awning room for the ARB awning.

The Vortex bars that were gathering dust in the garage are now back on the roof ( using same Rhino RLTP low profile legs but I might get the quick release version ).That should equate to a very simple and fast tent install to the crossbars. Discovered that the brackets I'd had on the awning attached to the Pioneer platform where the Foxwing brackets (pretty heavy 619g each vs Rhino Universal brackets 205g ). I didnt pick these when I'd got the awning a while back so it was interesting to see the difference in size / weight ). Every little helps!

ARB 2x2.5m Awning on the passenger side, rear opening tent and shovel on the right is the planned setup.

Will update when complete. Still thinking about the 3rd row removal, that will require someting for the Drifta drawers to rest on. Not searched for that modification yet....

re: Shingleback rack AlexRS4 - been eyeing those off for a while as my Yakima holdup 2 wobbles a bit at the hinge and the arm tension keeps coming loose. Do you have a Mitch Hitch?? Wondering how the height of a vertical rack works with this? Obviously old LR plough would sit the rack a lot lower.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200608/765211959bda7186afd8c0d7abf4dcae.jpg
I have a kaymar rear bar. I suspect it's a similar height to a Mitch hitch but height sits fine.

Ignore the Yakima this was when I first picked the rack up, the Yakima is gone now [emoji23]

Looking at the photo, the rack could be modded to drop a few inches in height. I've spoken to the bloke at shingleback in the past and he's up for custom jobs. Initially I was going to get a modded version of the rack to sit built into a second tyre swing arm on the kaymar bar.

[dukemasterpro]

End of week update on my quest to get my D4 fitted out and ready to travel in a few weeks time.

The night before dropping my car down to the workshop I discovered that the Tyretrek rear wheel carrier didn’t fit! It’s a heavy item and a 2 person install so didn’t get around to a trial fit immediately.

Oversight on my part unfortunately, that also wasn’t picked up by the retail outlet, the carrier sat very close, too close with the standard LR hitch.

With the Mitch Hitch it was alright spacing to when closed but when open the lower tailgate was obstructed, about 3/4 lowered.
So not enough to use drawers, fridge slide etc.

Does mean I’ll have a Tyretrek to sell, given the current demand for touring and camping gear that shouldn’t be too hard. It’s a no-go for a D3/D4 but any non tailgate vehicle is pretty much good to go.

I spoke with Brett from Tyretrek and he explained the reason why LRD414’s carrier worked is that version was made to suit a Land Cruiser 200. They look very similar but the version I have sits higher so the horizontal bar where it shuts closed is a little higher.

Little disappointed but we moved to our plan B which based on budget and time is to camp in a similar sized swag to the RTT.

Fortunately didn’t have any money down on the RTT, been close to with various options in short supply but with good stock available for the Feldon it wasn’t urgent.

Positive also in that I don’t have to park on the streets till we leave or think about how to keep the batteries fully charged, also filling our water storage can be done from the garden tap. We can stay parked at home and load from the back garden and garage.

I will put the platform back on, then use the bits I have already which includes Rhino tyre straps, Jerry holder and shovel mounts.

Overall vehicle weight will come within the payload limit due to not having a 50kg wheel carrier, 54kg roof tent vs a 14.5kg swag. Bit of a difference!

The roof limit is likely now to exceed the recommended so that’s the compromise for this setup and I think in the end good enough is good enough. We can elect to carry fuel in the roof Jerry for the segments that warrant a larger reserve.

UHF, 5db antenna, MSA50 fridge slide, fridge, Tuffant spare winder, new Super Start battery dropped in and BMS2 all in place with final cabling for the fridge Anderson DC cable to be done Monday.

Decided against the seat removal, the guys started it and went as far as removing the cargo barrier ( Autosafe full length ) to access the lower seats.

Reason being not much really holding the lower part of the barrier in their opinion. Given overall vehicle weight not an obstacle now with a roof tent and whee carrier skipped this.

Middle row seats still an option if we need to.

[LRD414]

I spoke with Brett from Tyretrek and he explained the reason why LRD414’s carrier worked is that version was made to suit a Land Cruiser 200. They look very similar but the version I have sits higher so the horizontal bar where it shuts closed is a little higher..
You should get it swapped for an LC200 version or get a refund imo. Not your fault and the seller should have known.

Scott

[dukemasterpro]

You should get it swapped for an LC200 version or get a refund imo. Not your fault and the seller should have known.

Scott

Maybe worth asking, looking back at my chats with TJM I had indicated it was for a 2014 D4. Obviously they had not fitted to or supplied one of these to a D4 customer at that branch.