Rosie fix up

[Saulman1010]

Is this the part where the manual says...."installation is the reverse of the removal process"?

Hahahha!
MJS

[Saulman1010]

Is this the part where the manual says...."installation is the reverse of the removal process"?

Hahahha!
MJSSorry forgot to attach photo....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200619/f2cbdd45faabf5d663d003897f2c44b3.jpg

[4X4V8]

You're one step ahead of me. I have being 'gunna' do this job for 2 months (remove dash, fix sticking blend door and motor). I'm still waiting for the HVAC repair z-strip to turn up so I can start.

I also have to drop the fuel tank to find the source of the fuel leak when the tank is filled (yeah, it's at the top of the tank 'somewhere') but I'm thinking I might leave that not fun job to Cooper's. Replace the fuel pump while there. It all gets expensive after a while doesn't it?

[Saulman1010]

Heater O rings were still ok (haha)
Brittle as hell.
I haven't changed them so they almost certainly will be the originals at 350k.
Changed the blend motors will I was in there.

Next will be the blower motors. They dont seem to be very active.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200619/96541a3edecc408d367536b87f619380.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200619/0e8875ea5ce9e907bbe9eadee29fa7dc.jpg

[Saulman1010]

You're one step ahead of me. I have being 'gunna' do this job for 2 months (remove dash, fix sticking blend door and motor). I'm still waiting for the HVAC repair z-strip to turn up so I can start.

I also have to drop the fuel tank to find the source of the fuel leak when the tank is filled (yeah, it's at the top of the tank 'somewhere') but I'm thinking I might leave that not fun job to Cooper's. Replace the fuel pump while there. It all gets expensive after a while doesn't it?Shame you are not local. Having done 3 sets now I think I could do them in a morning.
What's a z-strip, pardon my ignorance.

[Saulman1010]

Today's effort:
New trailer wiring plug, new plenum filter material (clean out copious amounts of crap out of scuttle drains) and replace broken clips to and screws the widscreen trims, new cabin filters and a double power socket in the glove box. At last got rid of those ugly wires in centre console!
MJShttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/965e5fac8c9024a62543188a8ac4427f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/a2e9c12995bb8f4e56254e8aabafbc43.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/10b3a810fe936ad4dcaee7e98206771d.jpg

[4X4V8]

Shame you are not local. Having done 3 sets now I think I could do them in a morning.
What's a z-strip, pardon my ignorance.

Zebra strip, or ribbon connector, for when HVAC display drops some or all of the LED display segments.
Range Rover P38 HEVAC Repair Connector (https://shop.v8engines.com/range-rover-p38-hevac-repair-connector-747-p.asp)

I bought mine on eBay. Coming from UK by snail post, been 3 weeks but hopefully will arrive by the end of the month.

I was very slow by all accounts when replacing the headliner (2 days, but was also photographing each step, and repair broken trim tabs) but no pics to take this time.

It's not a race anyway, and I always stuff things up when I work on it too long in one day or try to rush it. It's always the fiddly things like gluing broken trims or a procedure I'm not familiar with that slows me down (eg bleeding the cooling system. I want to take my time with that given the potential disaster if I don't!).

I can do an engine oil/filter change in about 10 min though! :)

[4X4V8]

Also, can't believe your heater core o-rings lasted so long without leaking. That must be a record!

[Saulman1010]

Zebra strip, or ribbon connector, for when HVAC display drops some or all of the LED display segments.
Range Rover P38 HEVAC Repair Connector (https://shop.v8engines.com/range-rover-p38-hevac-repair-connector-747-p.asp)

I bought mine on eBay. Coming from UK by snail post, been 3 weeks but hopefully will arrive by the end of the month.

I was very slow by all accounts when replacing the headliner (2 days, but was also photographing each step, and repair broken trim tabs) but no pics to take this time.

It's not a race anyway, and I always stuff things up when I work on it too long in one day or try to rush it. It's always the fiddly things like gluing broken trims or a procedure I'm not familiar with that slows me down (eg bleeding the cooling system. I want to take my time with that given the potential disaster if I don't!).

I can do an engine oil/filter change in about 10 min though! :)What spray glue did you use?
And where did you get the material?

I've been on ebay and I see some at $19perM but I'm wondering if it's ok quality?

MJS

[Saulman1010]

Also, can't believe your heater core o-rings lasted so long without leaking. That must be a record!They were fine until I got my local mechanics (who I get to do the heavy stuff for me) to change ALL the heater and radiator hoses. Then they weeped.
Must have disturbed them somehow.
MJS

[4X4V8]

What spray glue did you use?
And where did you get the material?

I've been on ebay and I see some at $19perM but I'm wondering if it's ok quality?

MJS
Bought the material from a local trimmer (Five Dock in Sydney) for about $100. The P38 headliner is unusually wide at the back so you can't use standard width material, it won't cover all the headliner board. So that eBay stuf isn't likely to be wide enough. If you do a search on this forum or Google it you'll find the details of the width you need.

The only high-temp spray adhesive I could find anywhere was Selleys Kwik-Grip spray adhesive. DON'T use it! I couldn't find the exact 3M spray glue everyone recommends online, or any other high-temp spray adhesive. The glue has to be suitable for high temp (ie a hot car sitting in the summer sun = 50deg+). While Kwik Grip is 70deg rated and I applied it by the book, the headliner material started to bubble in a few spots or come away at the edges after a few weeks. It has since held after pressing the material back against the board. I may have to do the whole damn thing again if it starts to drop again, which it probably will :(.

I did a BMW headliner years ago and don't remember the glue except it came out thicker, was more viscous than Kwik Grip, which is a thin, clear glue. Whatever that glue was it held really well, no probs, no bubbling etc.

Maybe auto paint suppliers sell the right spray adhesive, or maybe Bursons or others. I looked in Bunnings, Repco and Supercheap just as COVID-19 restrictions hit before just grabbing the Selleys stuff and so wasn't able to go hunting more. Act in haste, repent at leisure!

[Scouse]

They were fine until I got my local mechanics (who I get to do the heavy stuff for me) to change ALL the heater and radiator hoses. Then they weeped.
Must have disturbed them somehow.
MJSThe slightest movement of the heater pipes where they go through the firewall will disturb the heater core O rings everytime.

[4X4V8]

The slightest movement of the heater pipes where they go through the firewall will disturb the heater core O rings everytime.
I was told today that if you're just replacing the heater hoses, to split (cut) the old hoses off at the firewall end and push the new hoses on with some lubricant or you'll get an o-ring leak.

I'm doing both at the same time so hopefully it won't really matter.

[Saulman1010]

Bought the material from a local trimmer (Five Dock in Sydney) for about $100. The P38 headliner is unusually wide at the back so you can't use standard width material, it won't cover all the headliner board. So that eBay stuf isn't likely to be wide enough. If you do a search on this forum or Google it you'll find the details of the width you need.

The only high-temp spray adhesive I could find anywhere was Selleys Kwik-Grip spray adhesive. DON'T use it! I couldn't find the exact 3M spray glue everyone recommends online, or any other high-temp spray adhesive. The glue has to be suitable for high temp (ie a hot car sitting in the summer sun = 50deg+). While Kwik Grip is 70deg rated and I applied it by the book, the headliner material started to bubble in a few spots or come away at the edges after a few weeks. It has since held after pressing the material back against the board. I may have to do the whole damn thing again if it starts to drop again, which it probably will :(.

I did a BMW headliner years ago and don't remember the glue except it came out thicker, was more viscous than Kwik Grip, which is a thin, clear glue. Whatever that glue was it held really well, no probs, no bubbling etc.

Maybe auto paint suppliers sell the right spray adhesive, or maybe Bursons or others. I looked in Bunnings, Repco and Supercheap just as COVID-19 restrictions hit before just grabbing the Selleys stuff and so wasn't able to go hunting more. Act in haste, repent at leisure!Do I really have to take the whole sunroof out to get the sunshade off or am I reading the posts wrong?
MJS

[4X4V8]

Do I really have to take the whole sunroof out to get the sunshade off or am I reading the posts wrong?
MJS

You don't need to take out the sunroof 'cassette' (assembly), although I wonder if it might be easier in the end. Part of the problem is that you're working on the sunroof, from the top mostly, so you need a step laddder etc. That's not a huge issue though. The trickey bit is figuring out how it all goes together. RAVE is not a big help -- in fact one of the instructions is wrong, in regards to manual operation of the roof.

Anyway, I loosened the side rails and the centre support bracket so that the rails could be widened and sunshade then removed. It was fiddly and a pain to do but now I have a better idea of how it all goes together I'd do it much more quickly next time. I took ages being super careful as I read a lot about the sunshade guide clips breaking easily and having no replacements available but I didn't find them fragile, or break any (unlike trim clip tabs for interior pillar trims, broke a few of those!). Just fiddly to put back on reassembly.

[Scouse]

Do I really have to take the whole sunroof out to get the sunshade off or am I reading the posts wrong?
MJSIf you have the headlining out, the sunroof assy is only a 5min job. It's so much easier to work on at floor or bench height.

[Saulman1010]

Today was the turn of the headliner. One thing became apparent, its a good idea to cover the interior with sheets as the old liners glue make a great mess. Things went ok. Got the sunroof cassette out easily enough and off with the sun shield by sort of bowing it in the middle.
The A pillar trim just exploded into three parts, dunno if its a repair or replace job.
My focus is now on getting sunroof reinstalled so its dust tight again, even in a garage, I hate the thought of insects or mice getting into the vehicle.
Can't decide if the brush adhesive is better than the spray. Time will tell.
MJS
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200629/c3ad63761a854952a90aaf839e5d3f0a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200629/fca81e7597653629a988eba2fc8471e0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200629/5b4d492760772b670d3d0ace039cca81.jpg

[Scouse]

While you have the interior apart, check the sunroof drain hoses, particularly the rear pair. They often tend to shrink with age & become too short to fit into the duckbill section that goes through the wheel arch. If this is the case, it's usually best to fit a new length of hose rather than try to bodge the end up to stop leaks.

Also, check the roof braces for rattles. If the bonding adhesive has failed in any spots, now's a good time to fix that too.

Oh, and the orange stuff that falls out of the headlining isn't glue. It's the foam backing the material originally had stuck to it. Lovely stuff...NOT.

[p38arover]

While you have the interior apart, check the sunroof drain hoses, particularly the rear pair.

Or they kink.

162484

[Saulman1010]

Or they kink.

162484Yep, got a kink I saw that. Will attend to that.
Thx

[Saulman1010]

While you have the interior apart, check the sunroof drain hoses, particularly the rear pair. They often tend to shrink with age & become too short to fit into the duckbill section that goes through the wheel arch. If this is the case, it's usually best to fit a new length of hose rather than try to bodge the end up to stop leaks.

Also, check the roof braces for rattles. If the bonding adhesive has failed in any spots, now's a good time to fix that too.

Oh, and the orange stuff that falls out of the headlining isn't glue. It's the foam backing the material originally had stuck to it. Lovely stuff...NOT.How often to they crack, I'm thinking there would have to be a lot of repeated body twist for that to happen. Nasty.
Mjs

[Scouse]

It's not that it cracks, more like the adhesive comes away sometimes, probably due to roof panel vibration over time.
It's not a big deal but give them a thump & see if you find a rattle. You might find a loose one, you might not.

[Saulman1010]

Two front tyres today.
No more Toyo 255/65R16 Tyre power says. Not making that size. Dang! I liked the Toyo's been happy with klm, ride and grip. I will trawl the pages of users recommendations in 80k or so[emoji57]
MJS

[Saulman1010]

Another day tidying up the roof lining. Cut outs etc. And cleaning up the trims. Got the sunroof shade ready to install, just need a body to help me install it.

Now a question: the pillar/post trims - to paint or cover with roof lining material?

MJS

[Scouse]

When I had my last headlining done, the trimmer thought the headlining material wouldn't be pliant enough to go into the curves on the pillar trims.
I left mine uncoated &, once you get used to the glossy finish, it doesn't look too bad.

You could always re-flock them :)

[Saulman1010]

More clamps! I simply must have more clamps....."My kingdom for clamps!" Aggghhhh!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/0200855066d98b90403e882362244c67.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/9eb18102e6395efeddeea147a9fd65df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/70d6a343fee18e1dcdb8afb8fab9a592.jpg

[Saulman1010]

You could always re-flock them :)

Hmmm what I think about that mess flock would not get through the swear filter[emoji57]

[Saulman1010]

Sun roof cassette is back in, thank goodness! I didn't like having a big hole in the roof in winter.
Sunblind was not a huge hassle, luckily I took copious amount of photos but the little clips still stumped me for a moment.
All back and lubed up.
One more weekend of trimming pillar trims and it all goes back.[emoji847]
MJShttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/f465b80d769e3b6d23edb25ea6b78b66.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/c99536644237c63483763ea725b9231e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/e69b383d342958037c6cc8bca23c4fdb.jpg

[4X4V8]

What brand/type glue did you end up using?

[Saulman1010]

Main roof, a brush on adhesive supplied by the guy I purchased the cloth from. I'm trusting his years of experience in motor trimming is good. Brushing was hard work though. I'd like to look into spraying if I ever do another.
The pillars/posts I used the 3M 77 high temp spray at $38 per can!

Mjs

[4X4V8]

Main roof, a brush on adhesive supplied by the guy I purchased the cloth from. I'm trusting his years of experience in motor trimming is good. Brushing was hard work though. I'd like to look into spraying if I ever do another.
The pillars/posts I used the 3M 77 high temp spray at $38 per can!

Mjs

That 3M 77 is rated to 65 degrees C, which I imagine would be fine for an automotive interior. It is a clear spray though, right? I don't trust a thin, clear glue for headliner anymore after my experience. When I do my headliner again I'm going to find a thicker high-temp 3M glue. I'm hoping that I only have to use it for some edges that start to come away on regular intervals, but I can see I'll be doing the whole job again one day.

When I bought the material (from an automotive trimmer) they were spraying a headliner board to glue new material. It was a really thick gooey mess coming out of the spray gun (they do so many that obviously they use an air spray gun rather than aerosol cans) compared to the thin aerosol stuff I used. I still managed to use two cans of it, so I wasn't going lightly.

By the way, your trimming work is looking good so far! With the contact glue you shouldn't need to clamp down the material but it doesn't hurt to do it. I've noticed that my later P38 doesn't have the flocked material on pillar trims but is vinyl painted an off-white/cream colour.

[Scouse]

I've noticed that my later P38 doesn't have the flocked material on pillar trims but is vinyl painted an off-white/cream colour.The 99-02 cars had their pillar trims coated in an almost rubberised finish. It seems harder wearing than the earlier flocked type.

[Saulman1010]

That 3M 77 is rated to 65 degrees C, which I imagine would be fine for an automotive interior. It is a clear spray though, right? I don't trust a thin, clear glue for headliner anymore after my experience. When I do my headliner again I'm going to find a thicker high-temp 3M glue. I'm hoping that I only have to use it for some edges that start to come away on regular intervals, but I can see I'll be doing the whole job again one day.

When I bought the material (from an automotive trimmer) they were spraying a headliner board to glue new material. It was a really thick gooey mess coming out of the spray gun (they do so many that obviously they use an air spray gun rather than aerosol cans) compared to the thin aerosol stuff I used. I still managed to use two cans of it, so I wasn't going lightly.

By the way, your trimming work is looking good so far! With the contact glue you shouldn't need to clamp down the material but it doesn't hurt to do it. I've noticed that my later P38 doesn't have the flocked material on pillar trims but is vinyl painted an off-white/cream colour.The 3M 77 super stuff I got was, according to the spec sheets definitely says that it was well over 100deg once cured. The 3M rep I had on the phone was adamant the product was ok. Time will tell.

I only clamp where I have to stretch the material.
Mjs

[Saulman1010]

Finished the pillar/post trims today.
Couple more cutouts in the roof then it all goes back in tommorow - yey!
Glad I'm not a trimmer for a job - Rosie has been in bits for 3 weeks..I'd go broke. hahah.
MJShttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200710/3c0900f38762d029ac9393aafba7fcab.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200710/57de4160f2b2c3606500772ecdd6a264.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200710/3c0fd9462829e7cb14b250d5efdd8bb5.jpg

[prelude]

That looks just fine mate! Good job :)

I see you bought a whole heap of new clamps to do the job... That's the mistake I once made, I used a bunch of clamps I already had, no rubber ends meant dents in the fabric and rust stains from some of the parts of the clamps where the galv let go.

Since I use my P38 for medium rough tracks I am considering not putting fabric back in at all since plastic will clean so much easier.

Ah well, keep up the good work ;)

Cheers,
-P

[Saulman1010]

That looks just fine mate! Good job :)

I see you bought a whole heap of new clamps to do the job... That's the mistake I once made, I used a bunch of clamps I already had, no rubber ends meant dents in the fabric and rust stains from some of the parts of the clamps where the galv let go.

Since I use my P38 for medium rough tracks I am considering not putting fabric back in at all since plastic will clean so much easier.

Ah well, keep up the good work ;)

Cheers,
-PThx,
The clamps work well with carpenters pencils that increase the clamp area.
MJS

[Saulman1010]

Roof liner is in, a few creases and finger marks here and there, but I want to see it after a while and when it gets over 10deg!
Solved the problem of the broken tabs on the pillar trims... I cut slots with the grinder and glued in plastic tabs from builders packers.
MJShttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200711/1f702c5751c189fb591faa2689bc5b4f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200711/724fefbc059eb030d3c7160b527b9de1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200711/7dddad3b7367132c880be8e3c074a8aa.jpg

[Saulman1010]

Done.
Apart from waiting on a new globe in the dome light, and a couple more christmas tree clips in the parcel shelf the job is done!
I'm 95% now happy with my efforts. Learning along the way takes time.
Probably cost $210 in materials.
MJShttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200712/44dc4afd0f28ea94a38a4bd9d683540d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200712/d1919e21ea3ce9d9a5f0db1bdaad14d1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200712/16dd6bd37b38336d48d71afd81926697.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200712/6131634ed9ce9ebae6fa71ef966c326e.jpg

[Saulman1010]

Small jobs today, only a little time to play:
Changed the headlight wipers, they were almost bald- gulp!
The seal around the tailgate button.
But the major project was a new dash cam. Fitted a Garmin Mini behind rear view mirror. Just working on stealing power from interior lights unit.
Then all the ugly wires are hidden.
I realise the power to the globes is via the becem and can be switched off by the switch but I thought there would be a constant power cos the map lights always work.
I want the cam live always and not through accessories, I'm hoping to set camera to record with the optional shock/movement sensor when parked.
MJS
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200724/c456b40f779fd2ecf2ea2e44b0bb6301.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200724/80c53e430e5e7537bd2b8b44a0ade040.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200724/c9d357de727cf7dc09984b14348210a0.jpg

[Saulman1010]

More fun and games with Rosie today:
Blower motors: new brushes and clean up the inboard relay.
The old bushes weren't too bad, see old and new photo, but the passenger side was shorter again.
A good clean with electrical cleaner and a blow OUT (hey, I nearly got caught by the naughty words scanner then!). Amazed how much crap inside, dust and carbon and crap.
And WOW! Soooooo much better now. Nearly blew my toupee off!
The HAVC threw a checkbook symbol, but thats not surprising, I tried every function and I know I have no gas in aircon, so its gonna blow a fault on that alone.
So, new relays and fuses, fusebox ok, new blend motors, service blowers (have I forgotten anything?).....now off to get Aircon fixed - yey.
MJShttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200725/6111e2330ff97124a6e7a09edcba4846.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200725/92c390a1c22e4cef5eb1364d9c2ef934.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200725/715ee362ee54d1a82fa8bdcc2ebdb441.jpg

[Saulman1010]

Todays efforts was a o-ring kit through the valve block. You guys have seen it all before I'm sure.
Kit from different supplier this time, many more o-rings, ones for different places I'm sure I didn't do 3 years ago.
Lets see if it settles overnight.
Going in to get Air-conditioning Monday - gulp! Bread and water for rest if month here
MJShttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200801/5312f91a5ce46f82d29234f9eb8ddaa3.jpg

[Saulman1010]

Got Rosie back today, air-conditioning done with a new compressor, fair enough it's run for 360k.
Apparently I have a sticky blend motor so looks like I will have to revisit that.
Now I'm told I'm have a slight weep in the radiator, that's 330k old so again, not too bad.
I found a used front grille and have painted that up, that will go on tomorrow.
The list is getting shorter.....

[Saulman1010]

Another day with my girlfriend Rosie.
Fitted the reconditioned grille (with an e)[emoji6]
Sorted out aircon fans, check the photos. Took longer to remove and refit than to diagnose problem. It just fell out.
Took the stuck blend motor out and lubed up the arms best I can, they seem ok, but need calibrating. While I was in there I revisited the rh blower motor that seems slower than the other, cleaned that up again.
Other trivial stuff: tailgate struts, exhaust filter on eas and brake pedal rubber.
All under the full and constant supervision of Duke the cat.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200819/ca2ecf9860b02a38f1c615f5eee9a0fc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200819/16b217fa5d865ee9849b06493a030e75.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200819/3a674003cf231748275c44da59a2c268.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200819/e2da68ba09685f961d3da9c08d6fcebb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200819/2939f761749f51b168fb9c169b9c73c1.jpg

[Saulman1010]

Hey all,
I'm getting a "stalled blend motor" error during calibrating.
I've had the whole lot out again and I can turn the flap assembly by hand but it does have some reaistance, would be similar on force to say a garden hose pipe on a reel.
How stiff should it be?
Same error with 2 sets of motors.
Ideas?

[4X4V8]

Hey all,
I'm getting a "stalled blend motor" error during calibrating.
I've had the whole lot out again and I can turn the flap assembly by hand but it does have some reaistance, would be similar on force to say a garden hose pipe on a reel.
How stiff should it be?
Same error with 2 sets of motors.
Ideas?

Hi Saulman, I do not have much experience with the blend doors but until someone with more experience chips in, I can tell you what I have found.

I removed the instrument cluster and other components to get at the rh blend motor, as diagnosis showed that this was the fault (same fault as you got, I think). With the blend motor removed, the shaft moved very easily through most of its travel, barely any resistance at all (much more easily than a garden hose on a reel, at least our one!).
The problem with my P38's right blend door is that it has a sticking point (or resistance) about half way though its travel, which resulted in chewed gears within the blend motor. Yet to take out dash to properly investigate.
I hope that may be of some help.

[Saulman1010]

Thanks for that.
The flaps are stiff. I need to look at another vehicle. That is partially stripped.
Im also looking at the blend motors on the blowers. There are another 2 attached to the blower housing that i have never even seen. I wonder if its that/those that have failed that is tripping a generic "blend motor stall" error.
More to come....

[Saulman1010]

More bits a pieces today.
Another handle above drivers seat, and a nice discrete car cam.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/63d34933b88c5567aa7dcae4481b6e4e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/c0df963aa1f4acb63ed2bc425c38890e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/3650d878b1acf5a15b8a2b52e188e79f.jpg

[Scouse]

There are another 2 attached to the blower housing that i have never even seen.They're to change between fresh & recirculated air or 'recirc motors'.

[Saulman1010]

I get their function, but have no experience of them.
Soon as I get one to change over, I will get under the dash again!

[Saulman1010]

Got Rosie back today from my local guy who does European cars, suspension stuff I can't do due my bad hands and I just don't have the proper tools any more.
Top and bottom ball joints, front axle seals, panard bushes front and rear, radius bushes and other bits.

Well, I think I've blown the budget right royaly.

If I could just get this sticky/stiff blend flap sorted and it's a winner.

Next week, I'm looking at the cosmetic stuff, a cut and polish. She might then reflect the money I have spent on her.

MJS
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200904/56b85f0a19572c14594fe17101ba45ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200904/de206ccaae30851c4a0a596b7775c558.jpg

[Saulman1010]

Might be up for a new exhaust soon! Gulp!
MJS[emoji40]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200904/3bcd74155181ab5bded5d5f82da9bc91.jpg