Warning Will Robinson - multiple D4 fault alerts!

[GregMilner]

Good afternoon you cleverer-than-me folks.
today for the first time, I’m getting multiple faults alerts on the TFT screen - HDC, ABS, Parking brake fault, suspension and a bunch of others as per the video below. Tried clearing faults with the Gap tool to no avail. Curiously, the Gap gadget is telling me there are no faults...!
I’m waiting on a call from the local LR Indy, but in the meantime can anybody shed light on this? As an aside, just got back from a 3,000km round trip to Exmouth and she ran perfectly the whole time. Maybe she doesn’t like the cold weather?..

YouTube (https://youtu.be/IqjJzFDBBkI)

[Tombie]

Start with:

Check battery terminals for tightness
Check battery condition

[Graeme]

Your GAP tool might not be set to show all faults as the tool is at least sometimes supplied inappropriately set.

A check of the ABS wires near the hubs might reveal a broken wire but the fault code should reveal which corner has the fault.

[Briar]

I had this not long after I got my D4. Went on truck to dealer. Christmas tree lot of faults. Issue was an Earth Bolt not tightened after dealer had put on Brake controller.

[GregMilner]

The Indy put their code reader on it just now, says it’s the right rear ABS sensor. Fortunately, I have a spare. Unfortunately, they can’t do the job till Thursday, and I’m crook with a virus (no, not that one) otherwise I’d do it myself.

[justinc]

Greg, I would be also not surprised if that side wheel bearing is suspect...

[GregMilner]

Greg, I would be also not surprised if that side wheel bearing is suspect...

Could be Justin, I'll get them to check it when the cars goes to the Indy tomorrow for the sensor replacement.

[GregMilner]

Greg, I would be also not surprised if that side wheel bearing is suspect...

Justin you might have some more intel on this. The Indy has replaced the ABS sensor with the new one and all the dashboard faults are still coming up, even though their diagnostic equipment specifically pointed at that sensor. He says the wheel bearing is fine, and that it could be some kind of fault in the ECU. The EAS isn't working so it's sitting in access mode. They don't have time to do any further investigation for a few days as they're flat out.

Any clues?

[Graeme]

Fit a LLAMS then drive away![bigsmile1]

[GregMilner]

Fit a LLAMS then drive away![bigsmile1]

Thanks Graeme - bit late for that now:-)
The bride was the first to drive it after we got home, and didn't know enough to manually over-ride the EAS. Since then, no lights on the EAS tumbler switch at all.

[Graeme]

The system over-ride is available only for the newer suspension ecus fitted to the L405, L494 & L462 Disco.

[Graeme]

duplicate

[justinc]

Justin you might have some more intel on this. The Indy has replaced the ABS sensor with the new one and all the dashboard faults are still coming up, even though their diagnostic equipment specifically pointed at that sensor. He says the wheel bearing is fine, and that it could be some kind of fault in the ECU. The EAS isn't working so it's sitting in access mode. They don't have time to do any further investigation for a few days as they're flat out.

Any clues?

Where is the vehicle at? In Perth?
If there's any damage to the sensor tip from the sensor ring on the CV hitting it then only a wheel bearing can cause that. How ever as it is easy to check, and they haven't found any play in the bearing then only leaves wiring or harness damage. Damn...😢

[GregMilner]

Where is the vehicle at? In Perth?
If there's any damage to the sensor tip from the sensor ring on the CV hitting it then only a wheel bearing can cause that. How ever as it is easy to check, and they haven't found any play in the bearing then only leaves wiring or harness damage. Damn...😢

No the car is at my local Indy, TVR in Dunsborough. They haven't had time to do anything more than swap out the right rear sensor cable (no change to the warning lights) but I'll ask them to check again the wheel bearing, before they start the tedious process of tracking down damaged wiring. Oh, and I've been advised to have the battery and alternator checked as well, problems in those areas could be sending the entire electrical system into a tizz.

[Graeme]

All those faults will occur if an ABS sensor fails - they are not indicative of a voltage problem.

[DiscoDB]

The problem with the D3/D4 ECU’s is the system will go into melt down when it gets confusing signals - voltage fluctuations seems to be a common cause of this. But this could be bad battery, bad alternator, a bad earth, a bad splice, a damaged cable, or a dodgy sensor, or a dodgy switch.

When you look closely at how the wiring has been finished off it looks like not enough attention to protecting wires, and possibly sourcing cheap cable where the outer coating goes hard and starts to break down with age.

Bugs me that one of the safe modes it reverts to sometimes is to drop the suspension rather than just locking the suspension at normal height.

I have been chasing down a similar fault now for over a year. Fortunately I can adjust the lowered height back to normal using the GAP tool and can ignore the dancing amigo’s.

[Turtle60]

No the car is at my local Indy, TVR in Dunsborough. They haven't had time to do anything more than swap out the right rear sensor cable (no change to the warning lights) but I'll ask them to check again the wheel bearing, before they start the tedious process of tracking down damaged wiring. Oh, and I've been advised to have the battery and alternator checked as well, problems in those areas could be sending the entire electrical system into a tizz.

Hi Greg, had All the same symptoms. Gap tool actually said front L wheel sensor issue. I replaced the sensor With OEM sensor and within 2 days same issue. Took it to local specialist and he replaced it with genuine LR one and 15000 klms later no drama. He said to never use anything but genuine LR sensors and wheel sensors are top of the list. And if damage wasn’t the cause of the failure then often he replaces the lot.
I don’t know enough to argue but proof is in the pudding.
Cheers
Steve

[iannicki]

Have you thought about the brake light switch?

[fredd63]

As others have mentioned in this thread, the battery is the first thing to check when getting multiple faults for no apparent reason. With a weak battery, when you start the car, the voltage to the various computers drops too much, causing them to throw faults. I would get the battery checked properly, before replacing anything else.

[DieselLSE]

Fit a LLAMS then drive away![bigsmile1]
Is that right, Graeme?
If the vehicle registers a fault that drops the EAS to the bump stops, will the LLAMS rotary switch allow you to raise the vehicle to a driveable height? Or do you mean the red button, the purpose of which I've never really been able to figure out?

[Graeme]

I assume that it is only at access height, being safe height to which the suspension is lowered when a brake system fault that could be a safety issue is broadcast on the HS can-bus, eg a failed wheel speed sensor. If so then the suspension system is still working, just limited to the low height and therefore by modifying the height signals to make the vehicle appear lower the suspension will be raised until the sensor signals are as expected. Llams high raised will raise to normal height then if the red button is pressed, medium raised becomes normal height and high raised becomes off-road height.

[DiscoDB]

I assume that it is only at access height, being safe height to which the suspension is lowered when a brake system fault that could be a safety issue is broadcast on the HS can-bus, eg a failed wheel speed sensor. If so then the suspension system is still working, just limited to the low height and therefore by modifying the height signals to make the vehicle appear lower the suspension will be raised until the sensor signals are as expected. Llams high raised will raise to normal height then if the red button is pressed, medium raised becomes normal height and high raised becomes off-road height.

This is correct - although sometimes the faults will stop the compressor from also running and will only allow lowering and not raising. With the GAP tool you can force the compressor to restart and start lifting before the faults stop it again.

So as long as you reset what the system considers as being the lowered height using either Lift rods, Llams, or the GAP tool height modes you can get around this problem.

[GregMilner]

Latest report from Dave at TVR - diagnostics show there is a hard fault - no continuity- between the ABS sensor and the wiring loom at the front of the car, which he says indicates a broken wire somewhere. I'm told that finding the broken wire and fixing it is a big job, in the meantime he's offered to jerry-rig a wire from the ABS sensor through the chassis to the connector on the loom. According to the wiring diagram (I'm advised by someone else on a Disco FB forum) is behind the left headlight somewhere.
I guess the sensible approach, before going to the trouble of feeding a wire all the way up through the chassis and firewall, is to run a test wire around the outside of the car to the connector first and see if that clears the faults.
That's a job for the next visit to the Indy. In the meantime, the car is at home, and this morning I'm going to try raising the suspension to about normal height using the GAP tool and see if that works. At least it'll be driveable, even thought the various faults are still apparent. Will advise.

[DiscoDB]

Greg - with the GAP tool, reset normal height to say +50mm, then go to the suspension module under service/test and you will see an option to re-enable the EAS. This should allow you to select raise height. Might take a few attempts but normally you can get it high enough so that next time you go for a drive and it attempts to drop to the “lowered height” due to the faults it will now settle at more like the normal height.

[Graeme]

The ABS module is attached to the brake master cylinder.

[GregMilner]

Greg - with the GAP tool, reset normal height to say +50mm, then go to the suspension module under service/test and you will see an option to re-enable the EAS. This should allow you to select raise height. Might take a few attempts but normally you can get it high enough so that next time you go for a drive and it attempts to drop to the “lowered height” due to the faults it will now settle at more like the normal height.

Mmm...have been trying that. As you'll see from the screen shots, I can't even get the height control working in the GAP tool before going to Service/Test. I also just did another fault test and it came back with the results as you'll see...

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[GregMilner]

Okay so I've gone into the Service/Test screen and re-enabled the EAS, then as instructed, attempted to raise the height using the console switch, to no avail. I've also gone into the height control settings and attempted to re-set the default height to plus 39mm, still no effect.
Anything more than this is probably beyond me, and I'll just have to wait till the Indy is able to dive in again on Tuesday.

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[Graeme]

I'd be having a critical look at the wire between the sensor and where it enters the body, looking for a chaffed spot from having rubbed on a clip or body part.

If a temporary wire is run it should be a shielded wire, although I suspect it would take more time to install the wire than find the fault. Intercepting the wires at the ABS module exposes the wire to the risk of moisture getting in at a later time.

If diagnostics detected an open circuit then the shield/earth could be the cause, although the shield might retain continuity even though the signal wire has been cut.

[GregMilner]

I'd be having a critical look at the wire between the sensor and where it enters the body, looking for a chaffed spot from having rubbed on a clip or body part.

If a temporary wire is run it should be a shielded wire, although I suspect it would take more time to install the wire than find the fault. Intercepting the wires at the ABS module exposes the wire to the risk of moisture getting in at a later time.

If diagnostics detected an open circuit then the shield/earth could be the cause, although the shield might retain continuity even though the signal wire has been cut.

Good advice, thanks Graeme, that'll be my first suggestion when it goes back to the workshop on Tuesday.

[DiscoDB]

The Emergency Air Up kit would come in handy at this point. The hard fault seems to be locking out the EAS completely.

The ECU fault programming logic defies logic. Why a dodgy ABS signal causes the suspension to drop makes no sense. Disabling ABS and the terrain response I get, but to force the suspension to lower as well was not needed.

At least you know what the fault is that needs sorting.

[DiscoDB]

Okay so I've gone into the Service/Test screen and re-enabled the EAS, then as instructed, attempted to raise the height using the console switch, to no avail. I've also gone into the height control settings and attempted to re-set the default height to plus 39mm, still no effect.
Anything more than this is probably beyond me, and I'll just have to wait till the Indy is able to dive in again on Tuesday.

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162427

I am actually surprised this did not work. I have a similar fault which is locking out the height controls and drops the suspension to lowered height. I just went into GAP and used the adjust height to set it at +20mm. Then went to service test and said re-enable EAS and hit continue and it immediately raised the height.

Obviously yours is a different fault plus mine is a D3. I suspect my fault is a bad splice on the power feed to the TCM module or a bad earth - but I still expected yours to try to raise as I noticed that the instruction to drop to lowered height only happens when you start driving.

All the time I had all the warning lights on or flashing - even after clearing all faults.

I also have GOE rods set to +50mm, so right now the car thinks it is in the lowered height but actually sitting 70mm above this at present.

[GregMilner]

I am actually surprised this did not work. I have a similar fault which is locking out the height controls and drops the suspension to lowered height. I just went into GAP and used the adjust height to set it at +20mm. Then went to service test and said re-enable EAS and hit continue and it immediately raised the height.

Obviously yours is a different fault plus mine is a D3. I suspect my fault is a bad splice on the power feed to the TCM module or a bad earth - but I still expected yours to try to raise as I noticed that the instruction to drop to lowered height only happens when you start driving.

All the time I had all the warning lights on or flashing - even after clearing all faults.

I also have GOE rods set to +50mm, so right now the car thinks it is in the lowered height but actually sitting 70mm above this at present.

I don't have the rods fitted so I'm reliant on the OEM settings/GAP etc.

As an aside, I had a timely visit yesterday from a local guy who volunteered to drive over and take a look. He's a D4 owner and very experienced mechanic with all the analytics gear and electronic wizardry, and actually understands wiring diagrams. After an hour of head scratching and tweaking, he's narrowed it down to a probable disconnect in the C2293 connector which sits under the left headlight. Unfortunately this connector requires removal of the power steering reservoir to gain access, a job made more difficult because of the way some electrical mods brackets have been bolted in adjacent to the reservoir.

One of the tests we did was checking the right rear wheel speed sensor using the IID tool while driving. All that confirmed was a complete lack of signal from that sensor.

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[josh.huber]

I don't have the rods fitted so I'm reliant on the OEM settings/GAP etc.

As an aside, I had a timely visit yesterday from a local guy who volunteered to drive over and take a look. He's a D4 owner and very experienced mechanic with all the analytics gear and electronic wizardry, and actually understands wiring diagrams. After an hour of head scratching and tweaking, he's narrowed it down to a probable disconnect in the C2293 connector which sits under the left headlight. Unfortunately this connector requires removal of the power steering reservoir to gain access, a job made more difficult because of the way some electrical mods brackets have been bolted in adjacent to the reservoir.

One of the tests we did was checking the right rear wheel speed sensor using the IID tool while driving. All that confirmed was a complete lack of signal from that sensor.

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I hope you provided beer

[GregMilner]

I hope you provided beer

Of course! Isn’t it the universal LR currency?

[Graeme]

I'm far more suspicious of the wire having sustained damage either by rocks or chaffing from the recent trip somewhere along its path. That connector is also used by the LF height sensor, the compressor and the LR ABS and height sensor so the bundle is likely to be exposed in various places, with the rear the most vulnerable.

Edit: removed reference to LF ABS sensor.

[GregMilner]

I'm far more suspicious of the wire having sustained damage either by rocks or chaffing from the recent trip somewhere along its path. That connector is also used by the LF height sensor, the compressor and the LR ABS and height sensor so the bundle is likely to be exposed in various places, with the rear the most vulnerable.

Edit: removed reference to LF ABS sensor.

Thanks Graeme, I'll check it out on the hoist tomorrow.

[GregMilner]

Rats!

The little b****rds have chewed through wiring.

Oh well, off to Coles for some Rodent Extermination Devices....

[DiscoJeffster]

Rats!

The little b****rds have chewed through wiring.

Oh well, off to Coles for some Rodent Extermination Devices....

Wow! Do you use the car regularly or is it parked up a lot?? At least you found the issue. Saying that I used to have them sit on the engine of my old Magna and eat the palm fruits. Thankfully they didn’t eat anything other than the fruit

[GregMilner]

Wow! Do you use the car regularly or is it parked up a lot?? At least you found the issue. Saying that I used to have them sit on the engine of my old Magna and eat the palm fruits. Thankfully they didn’t eat anything other than the fruit

It sits in the carport sometimes for several days at a time without moving. Strategically placed baits in the engine bay could be the next trick. The indy has also recommended a new battery, a Delcor 638, which I've told them to order...unless anybody has a better idea?

[DieselLSE]

It sits in the carport sometimes for several days at a time without moving. Strategically placed baits in the engine bay could be the next trick. The indy has also recommended a new battery, a Delcor 638, which I've told them to order...unless anybody has a better idea?
I presume you mean LN5 595 901 090 (https://www.delkor.com.au/en-au/products/delkor-agm-batteries/ln5-595-901-090)? Couldn't find a 638. It needs to be an AGM of at least 900CCA and 90AH. Other suitable brands are Varta G14 (850CCA, 95AH) and SSB.

[gavinwibrow]

It sits in the carport sometimes for several days at a time without moving. Strategically placed baits in the engine bay could be the next trick. The indy has also recommended a new battery, a Delcor 638, which I've told them to order...unless anybody has a better idea?

Check out recent discussions about Goodchild's and their well priced battery recommendations (SSB et al - located in Bibra Lake/Spearwood area?)

I have a Varta G14 from Battery World which like their service at my local store has been excellent, but its only 12 months old - did pay $549 for it though.

[GregMilner]

I presume you mean LN5 595 901 090 (https://www.delkor.com.au/en-au/products/delkor-agm-batteries/ln5-595-901-090)? Couldn't find a 638. It needs to be an AGM of at least 900CCA and 90AH. Other suitable brands are Varta G14 (850CCA, 95AH) and SSB.

I may have got the number wrong, but they assure me it's considerably more powerful than required, above 900CCA.

[Graeme]

My engine's acoustic cover is stored elsewhere after rats took a liking to the warmth and had a little chew on the MAP sensor wires and a glow plug wire while there.

I suggest that you don't put baits in the engine bay, instead on the ground a little distance from the wheels as you don't want to encourage them into the engine bay.

[GregMilner]

My engine's acoustic cover is stored elsewhere after rats took a liking to the warmth and had a little chew on the MAP sensor wires and a glow plug wire while there.

I suggest that you don't put baits in the engine bay, instead on the ground a little distance from the wheels as you don't want to encourage them into the engine bay.

Yep, that's the plan.

[kelvo]

The indy has also recommended a new battery, a Delcor 638, which I've told them to order...unless anybody has a better idea?
I went with a SSB SS88Ti, good spec, warranty and price Replacement battery for my D4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/278477-replacement-battery-my-d4.html)

[Tombie]

My engine's acoustic cover is stored elsewhere after rats took a liking to the warmth and had a little chew on the MAP sensor wires and a glow plug wire while there.

I suggest that you don't put baits in the engine bay, instead on the ground a little distance from the wheels as you don't want to encourage them into the engine bay.

Yeah, shove the CAT in the engine bay to mop up any strays!

[GregMilner]

Yeah, shove the CAT in the engine bay to mop up any strays!

If I had a cat, I would. What else are cats for?

[Turtle60]

Rats!

The little b****rds have chewed through wiring.

Oh well, off to Coles for some Rodent Extermination Devices....

So exactly where was scene of the crime?

[Milton477]

So the thread title needs to be changed to include 'rats' as the cause of the multiple faults just in case the thread gives the impression that the D4 is unreliable. [bigwhistle]

Glad you found it & fixed it & it wasn't one of those that just went away.

[INter674]

We looked at a Honda Euro which was immaculate but had a warning light up on the dash. Owner said she was not sure what caused it. Test drove it..pulled thd hood and noticed some damaged plastic around the engine bay. I knew straight away the tell tale rat chew marks.

I called the Indy who setviced the car and yes he said the owner had stored the car on daddy's farm whilst OS and the wiring was totalled. He repaired most of it but could not get rid of the dash light.

Amazingly faced with the truth the owner rejected my generous low ball offer😞

Rats..I said😃

[DiscoJeffster]

Rats..I said[emoji2]

[emoji1787]

[GregMilner]

So exactly where was scene of the crime?

In our own garage. Co-incidentally (or maybe NOT co-incidentally) I caught a glimpse of a rat out of the corner of my eye, scurrying around the pool only a couple of weeks ago. Our garage and grounds are now littered with baits. Obsessively, I'm checking them every morning to see if they've been chewed. So far, no evidence.

[DiscoJeffster]

I think the question was which wires/where did they chew? Any photos?

[GregMilner]

I think the question was which wires/where did they chew? Any photos?

Oh I see, silly me. No, the indy didn't get any photos, and I didn't have time to hang around to have a look while he took the car apart. Afterwards I asked him which wire, and he said "er...the blue one!"
Not very informative, but hey, I'm happy having my car back without a damage bill you can't jump over.

[Dfornow]

Just a side note re rats and mice eradication. Owls are thought of as a favourite predator on rats and mice, however rat/mice poison can kill them too as a secondary action. Then there is the pet danger.
My old Landcruiser was substantially damaged by a rat from the inside and some mice from under the bonnet so I'm no rodent lover. My auto electrician doesn't like them either. - I do like Owls.

A NEW STUDY has found that household rodenticides are having adverse effects on Australian boobook owls (Ninox boobook) through secondary poisoning; a process where the owl consumes poisoned rodents, resulting in death. The number of boobook owls has been dwindling over the past 10 years

cheers

[DiscoJeffster]

I can buy rat poison at Bunnings. Last check I can’t buy owls. Where does one get an owl to protect their assets?

[Turtle60]

I can buy rat poison at Bunnings. Last check I can’t buy owls. Where does one get an owl to protect their assets?

Ha one of your best

[Tombie]

I can buy rat poison at Bunnings. Last check I can’t buy owls. Where does one get an owl to protect their assets?

Hooters?