EPB Faultcode U0002 - pre-trip post major service yellow dash alert

[dukemasterpro]

Hey guys,

Was loading up the D4 last night, ready for a south coast 2 night camping trip to test out some of our new gear before heading bush. Unfortunately moving forward a few metres to leave space in the garage and got thrown a Electronic Park Brake error message on the dash - fault code U0002. Switched off, restarted then checked with the scanner, cleared the code.

Repeated the process this morning for fridge loading and the same error message. No physical alerts - grinding / noise etc and the EPB appears to work.

I did a quick Google on this and what I found was replace EPB module ( expensive $2k ish and difficult to access ), also cleaning sensors / wiring has appeared to work but that's out of my expertise most likely. I did have the 72,000km serivce done 2 weeks ago, vehicle has done 50,000 and no recent sand / dust / muddy conditions. Been to Bunnings a few times since.

Obviously I don't want to commence a multiweek trip next Sunday with errors and faults that cascade to further inhibit the vehicle.

What to do next? Is it a concern? Is there an "easy inspect and clean fix"? OR am I best served back to the dealer who serviced - vehicle had a clean bill of health.

Thanks, I'm sure someone has an answer. Meanwhile going to camp in the backyard.

[dukemasterpro]

Have just drove the block to check if any other fault code present - found the following

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200625/c03fb245278973057eaa0883a543106d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200625/d2d1263f3dad1486377694a295268fed.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200625/8b9086fa2e8a87e99737d3979af5883a.jpg

[DieselLSE]

Really hard to diagnose from a distance, but when odd electrical things start happening, always suspect the battery first. Don't just get it tested, replace it with a known good battery, reset the BMS and check for errors.
When replacing the battery, check the earth connections.
Was any electrical work done at the last service? A simple loose earth may be causing your problems.

[DieselLSE]

Sorry for disjointed posts, but replying by phone. Call the service people as I really suspect a poor earth is your problem. Find out where abouts on the car they were working and check those earth points. They are scattered all over the car. If they tested the battery, start checking there. If you find a loose terminal or battery earth, that could be it. No immediate need to change battery like I suggested above.

[Tombie]

I’d also put a carton on it that they didn’t remove the rear discs and adjust your EPB or grease it.

They never bloody do!

[dukemasterpro]

Really hard to diagnose from a distance, but when odd electrical things start happening, always suspect the battery first. Don't just get it tested, replace it with a known good battery, reset the BMS and check for errors.
When replacing the battery, check the earth connections.
Was any electrical work done at the last service? A simple loose earth may be causing your problems.

Aux Battery was replaced, UHF and extra fridge Anderson cable wired into the traxide after the LR Concord service.

[dukemasterpro]

I’d also put a carton on it that they didn’t remove the rear discs and adjust your EPB or grease it.

They never bloody do!

I hope so, even at a main dealer does it get skipped? [emoji3166]

[DieselLSE]

Aux Battery was replaced, UHF and extra fridge Anderson cable wired into the traxide after the LR Concord service.
Bet you pounds to peanuts that you have an earthing issue. Start at the batteries.

[dukemasterpro]

Fingers crossed its that simple, logic fits anything fault code always seems to point back to battery.

My cranking battery is about 18 months old, Varta from battery world. Wondering if changing that is an idea anyhow?

It’s not showing any issues with the Bluetooth bm2 sensor though.

I’ve booked back in with Concord LR on Wednesday and back with Adventure Merchants to get my driving lights fitted plus the loose ABG 25 connector from the weekend. Decided against DIY on that.

One way or other the rogue earth connector is going to be found out.

[rocket rod]

As a precaution during your trip, just don't use you EPB. Put some tape over it.

[INter674]

Fingers crossed its that simple, logic fits anything fault code always seems to point back to battery.

My cranking battery is about 18 months old, Varta from battery world. Wondering if changing that is an idea anyhow?

It’s not showing any issues with the Bluetooth bm2 sensor though.

I’ve booked back in with Concord LR on Wednesday and back with Adventure Merchants to get my driving lights fitted plus the loose ABG 25 connector from the weekend. Decided against DIY on that.

One way or other the rogue earth connector is going to be found out.

Son had a Varta in a Golf GTI..just changed it after @ 2 years. Agent said that's about right. It still cranks his dunnydore fine but as agent said..ecu mod cars won't tolerate failing batteries. I'd put it on charge and load test it.. or replace it...not with Varta tho ..our run on these was not good.

[Tombie]

I hope so, even at a main dealer does it get skipped? [emoji3166]

Especially at main dealers!

[dukemasterpro]

All good since yesterday morning thankfully. Decided to go camping anyhow as this was our “shakedown” trip.

Today’s battery reading from the cranking battery - 3 hour drive to camp yesterday then evening running of fridge, 3 LED strips then overnight fridge use. Started fine, I used to get battery low messages all the time around the local area and also last time camping with the “old” yellowtop which we’d had for 6 years.

It’s gone from 12.2v this morning back to 12.8v after 60mins. Not having had the battery monitor app for long is the cranking voltage warning [emoji3544] perhaps linked to the fault codes??

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200627/4a355f0444ba596f612244033d9f4ee2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200627/42e334fe191f18a207410406840e98c6.jpg

[dukemasterpro]

As a precaution during your trip, just don't use you EPB. Put some tape over it.

Was telling my other half about bring some heavy duty cable cutters just in case. That would be less drastic, a bit of tape. Be fun having to chock the car all the time.

[rocket rod]

My indy mechanic has told me that the "pawl" or what ever its called in the transmission that stops it going round and round is very strong in the D4 and is an effective "brake". He told me not to use the EPB at all. I don't, unless on a steep slope. Mind you, maintenance, as suggested, is the best option.

[Tombie]

On later D4s it will engage regardless. Once you shut down.

[ATH]

I really hate that EPB. It seized on once when the module went and had to be trucked into the stealers for a complete overhaul. I hate the thing. But I'd rather use it than have the weight of the car on the transmission "pawls" or whatever they're called as I know 2 people who've had major probs. by being too lazy to use their handbrakes. Strangely (or maybe not) both drive (or did) Mercs.
I never use the damn drive through function preferring to use it on/off myself but trust the mechanic to clean and adjust at service time therefore I don't use the stealers. :)
AlanH.

[Tombie]

Over the years I’ve had several vehicles with conventional hand brakes that seized on. Never had an issue with the EPB - because I service and adjust it as required.

With all the tech in the D4, it’s still been the absolute epitome of reliable transport.

And the added capability of that EPB when offroad is excellent. (Wonder how many are aware of those functions and use them?)

[DieselLSE]

Wonder how many are aware of those functions and use them?
Not a lot, I suspect.
I, too, was sceptical of the EPB until I took the trouble to learn about it after being amazed at how it functioned in the bush, particularly how it operated in conjunction with the Hill Descent Control system when going up steep inclines. (I find HDC pointless for downhill as you have full control over gearing and brakes anyway. I switch it off going down and turn it on going up!).

[dukemasterpro]

Really hard to diagnose from a distance, but when odd electrical things start happening, always suspect the battery first. Don't just get it tested, replace it with a known good battery, reset the BMS and check for errors.
When replacing the battery, check the earth connections.
Was any electrical work done at the last service? A simple loose earth may be causing your problems.

The Varta is 18 months old, thinking of getting that tested today. If it’s got issues - warranty would just cover like for like? Got it from battery world. What would a dealer or Indy put in there instead?

Re: The multiple earthing points - under the bonnet?
Is there also one in the jack storage area?

I’ve not touched either as electrics isn’t my thing but did have to wiggle the jack out as that was left in place when the drawers and slide was done.

[dukemasterpro]

Yesterday when I got back - this was much better than after the first nights camping.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/358e86192324735ccad0d3b2c238d21a.jpg
This morning still within an acceptable ( but not 100% ideal range? )
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/f2f15a30db31e37e657d0aab3ab1c194.jpg

[DieselLSE]

The Varta is 18 months old, thinking of getting that tested today. If it’s got issues - warranty would just cover like for like? Got it from battery world. What would a dealer or Indy put in there instead?

Re: The multiple earthing points - under the bonnet?
Is there also one in the jack storage area?

I’ve not touched either as electrics isn’t my thing but did have to wiggle the jack out as that was left in place when the drawers and slide was done.
>Is there also one in the jack storage area?
Yes, two from memory, plus some more tucked away behind the panel. But these shouldn't have been disturbed by your Traxide install or by removing the jack. Mind you, it would be worth checking. You should be able to feel up with your left hand and follow any black wires to the earthing points.
I still reckon something has been disturbed with the work done on your car. My guess is a loose earth point.

[dukemasterpro]

The guy I spoke to at the battery place was pretty confident the Varta was ok, not failing or needing replaced warranty or otherwise.

He didn’t want to say exactly what lifespan the Varta would have - as he had concerns about the Traxide isolators and the way it’s connected to the cranking battery.

Also mentioned that having the Traxide installed would void the Varta warranty. I found that interesting - not sure I’ve heard that before in relation to this as LR have replaced a battery under warranty with the Traxide system before for me.

Upshot is it’s probably not the actual battery itself that’s causing the fault codes but something else.

Next on the list is to get the earths checked tomorrow by the accessories installers. See if they missed anything or it’s came lose somehow.

Only one code showing today on the icarsoft and not the original EPB one - U0140 Lost communication with the body control module.

[Tombie]

I don’t have a lot of positives to say about Old Mate at the battery shop.

Hope your BS meter was ringing loudly!

When they make such a comment, a good way to sort wheat from chaff is to ask them to put those comments in writing. They often back peddle quickly, or refuse to do so.

Another good one would be to ask if an Intervolt or Redarc would have the same issue - both connect the same, just slightly different voltage levels.

[dukemasterpro]

Very loudly, was about to suggest they ring Traxide for a more detailed view on the USI-160. Not my realm to try and explain it to someone outside the Land Rover world who's not come across it before.

I know it works having given it a thorough test over the weekend's 2 nights camping in the cold and happy to say it did exactly as expected. Lights, fridge and fast recharge in the morning solar or driving.


I don’t have a lot of positives to say about Old Mate at the battery shop.

Hope your BS meter was ringing loudly!

When they make such a comment, a good way to sort wheat from chaff is to ask them to put those comments in writing. They often back peddle quickly, or refuse to do so.

Another good one would be to ask if an Intervolt or Redarc would have the same issue - both connect the same, just slightly different voltage levels.

[dukemasterpro]

Quick update that’s hopefully the loop closed on the EPB and other fault codes from last week.

I’ve had the dealership who serviced recently take a look this morning, they’ve ran diagnostics and inspected the EPB.

Nothing to report back on, didn’t charge for the workshop time, nice of them.

Just have to monitor for anything else along our way since nothing could be found. Will have the earths checked one more time today / tomorrow when the driving lights are hooked up.

Thanks for all the comments / advice so far always appreciated.