Inlet Manifold DIY Replacement

[DaveKelly]

I am changing the Inlet Manifold on a 2011 TD6 Sport. I do not need to explain why as the internet is full of stories on this one. However, has anyone done the Right-Hand Inlet Manifold removal/replacement? I mean ‘hands on’.
I am part way through with all the manifold bolts undone and please don’t ask how I got that back top bolt undone! Well, only if you must. The manifold is now released but I need some advice on what you did with that Y manifold. Did you decouple it from the manifold in some sort of magic way before removing the manifold?
I am thinking it may be best/easiest to take a multi-saw to it and then clamp up with a piece of flex turbo hose on reassemble. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
And by the way, if I had known what a pig of job it was going to be, I would have glued up the crack and taken it 4 hours away to Auckland for my LR guy’s.
My fingers and hands would have loved and thanked me.
[smilebigeye]
Dave K

[oka374]

Don't they take the body off to do that sort of job?

[DaveKelly]

Don't they take the body off to do that sort of job?


Sure would be easier - but ran out of options.
Might have to [B]invent another option and re torque and connect up which is feeling much more like what is going to happen right now!

[Graeme]

Rotate the Y-piece, anti-clockwise IIRC, as you raise its front. This is after having removed the housing to which the I/C hose is attached.

Follow the workshop manual - don't attempt the job without proper instructions.

[DaveKelly]

Rotate the Y-piece, anti-clockwise IIRC, as you raise its front. This is after having removed the housing to which the I/C hose is attached.

Follow the workshop manual - don't attempt the job without proper instructions.


Thanks Graeme - comments understood.

[DaveKelly]

Thanks Graeme - comments understood.


Back under the bonnet now. Thanks Graeme - the assembly just needed a little confidence and persuasion to extract it. (Multisaw was 'tongue in cheek')
Before I disconnect the Right Hand HP line off the fuel injection supply manifold, is the pipe union nut LH or RH thread.
The pipe nut has notches on the 6 'points' of the hex which sometimes indicates LH thread.
The Manual is silent which suggests its RH..... But before I commit.
Pipe Nut in question is circled in Red.
Appreciate your comments.

[Graeme]

They're normal RH threads.

Did you get injector kits? Some people don't replace the pipes to the injectors but they're risking the old seats not sealing if there's a very slight difference in orientation of the injector. The pipe from the pump to the rail isn't so bad because the rail goes back where it was.

[DazzaTD5]

Just some general info...

*Does not require the body off.
*The rear high pressure line that attaches to the high pressure pump is the most difficult part of the job.
*Be very careful of the return or spill lines from the injectors and the connectors, its all plastic and require great care not to damage the oring seat.
*Make sure the seat inside the head is nice and clean before fitting the injectors.
*When fitting the injectors make sure they are seated in all the way, the injector retaining clamps are NOT there to drive the injectors into the seats but merely to retain them in place.
*Be careful of ANY plastic tubes, connectors that are a few years old, sometimes they become quite brittle and will break as soon as look at them.
*Once new manifold is in place (not bolted up), give it a bit of a little shuffle just to feel that its seated nice and flat on the head and isnt rocking on any spot.
*even tightening up the bolts, take your time, you do not want this to leak oil after the job is done.

[Graeme]

It took my son and me a while to spot how to release those spill fittings!

[DaveKelly]

They're normal RH threads.

Did you get injector kits? Some people don't replace the pipes to the injectors but they're risking the old seats not sealing if there's a very slight difference in orientation of the injector. The pipe from the pump to the rail isn't so bad because the rail goes back where it was.


Sound advice on replacements.
I think we can be confident it's RH thread.
Just took picture of the fitting with boro-scope camera and threads are right hand high = RH thread.

[DaveKelly]

Just some general info...

*Does not require the body off.
*The rear high pressure line that attaches to the high pressure pump is the most difficult part of the job.
*Be very careful of the return or spill lines from the injectors and the connectors, its all plastic and require great care not to damage the oring seat.
*Make sure the seat inside the head is nice and clean before fitting the injectors.
*When fitting the injectors make sure they are seated in all the way, the injector retaining clamps are NOT there to drive the injectors into the seats but merely to retain them in place.
*Be careful of ANY plastic tubes, connectors that are a few years old, sometimes they become quite brittle and will break as soon as look at them.
*Once new manifold is in place (not bolted up), give it a bit of a little shuffle just to feel that its seated nice and flat on the head and isnt rocking on any spot.
*even tightening up the bolts, take your time, you do not want this to leak oil after the job is done.


Thanks Daz - excellent summary. Yes - 2nd point is true. That line and nut are not easy to access.
I may yet fabricate a 'tool' to complete this task. Otherwise words may be be spoken!
Hopefully my engine will look like your photo tomorrow.
Lucky I have another RR in the drive so I can take my time with this one.

[Graeme]

Just took picture of the fitting with boro-scope camera and threads are right hand high = RH thread.I'm reminded of my older brother undoing the nuts on a left wheel of his recently-acquired AP6 Valiant in our teens - this one's tight - oh dear, the stud broke, this next one's also tight - oh dear, that stud broke too! Hmm, the thread's going the wrong way and there's an L stamped on the stud. Not for long though as he replaced all the left studs with RH thread versions.

[DaveKelly]

I'm reminded of my older brother undoing the nuts on a left wheel of his recently-acquired AP6 Valiant in our teens - this one's tight - oh dear, the stud broke, this next one's also tight - oh dear, that stud broke too! Hmm, the thread's going the wrong way and there's an L stamped on the stud. Not for long though as he replaced all the left studs with RH thread versions.


Nice One [thumbsupbig]

[DaveKelly]

What a mission, but successful in the end.
Gaining access into the Right Hand HP fuel line is a little cramped. Positioning the spanner so that it can rotate without contacting fuel pipes and mounting brackets is difficult.
I bent up a 17mm open ended spanner and attempted to break the HP pipe union. I don’t know who did this union up – supper human I’d suggest as there was no way I could shift it. And being an OE spanner I was fearful of it twisting off and causing all sorts of damage elsewhere.
I had a brand new 17mm flare nut spanner and decided to sacrifice it. Heated to red heat and bent it to shape. At least with a Flare spanner it was not likely to twist off and I could be a little more confident in the pressure I applied.
Relief when it cracked and I got the smallest smidgen of movement.
The flare spanner being single hex means I could not rotate to the next flat. But I had an old open-ended / ring spanner that I then sacrificed. Heated it up and bent to shape. Took an angle grinder to the ring and cut a slot. As it wasn’t being used to crack the union it didn’t need the side wall strength of the flare spanner but gave me a double hex and I could begin to loosen up the nut until I could undo with fingers.
Others may have another method, but this proved to be an easy method for decoupling that HP line and I was confident that I wasn’t going to cause any damage in the back of the engine – which would have been a disaster. Photo gives view of modified spanners. Hope this may assist others.
Now I have two ‘specialist spanners’ that are no use on anything but a Range Rover. [tonguewink]

[Graeme]

Good thinking! I wasn't that convinced that replacing the pipe was mandatory and like you I didn't want to round-off the flats, so didn't loosen that fitting but sprang the other end out of the rail enough to allow the rail to me removed.

[DaveKelly]

At last the view I needed to see before the weekend.

[DaveKelly]

Medical event has delayed reassembly but have managed to install the new intake, fan, throttle body and connect up all the front connectors.
If you ever do this inlet manifold task, then for goodness sake take lots of photo's before you start and as you proceed to remove 'stuff'.
I took heaps but you can never take too many! It sure helps when laying back the cables and reinstalling the connectors. Wish I had taken a few more.
And those photo's remind one of things that you took off a couple of days ago and had forgotten about (old age![bigsad])
Now waiting on parts from UK to do up the back end and then install fuel rail and injectors.

[DazzaTD5]

Just to add...

*When you get to the point of tightening the bolts that hold the new manifold in place, go round each of the bolts after you have tightened them up, dont miss one! it will leak if you do.

*I know this (well derr it aint rocket science) as I just had a job in that the owner had done the job himself, missed one of the bolts, the one at the very back lower corner and it promptly leaked oil all over the exhaust.
*I had planned for the worst (replace the gasket) but hoped for the best (something simple).

[DaveKelly]

Well to close off this Inlet Manifold chapter.
New fuel injector pipes arrived from UK this week so with a little apprehension decided that I should finish this job.
The vehicle is now back on the road under her own steam.
Road Test went well and at this stage there are no fuel, air or oil leaks. Ran my computer tests and no errors reported. [bigsmile]

Would I do it again? No is the simple answer. [bigsad][bawl]
I was unlucky in that the closest Land Rover workshop would involve transporting the vehicle half way down the island and cost a wee dime.
I was lucky in having another RR for transport, a tool box to die for, the ability to fabricate or modify tools and a heap of spare time.
I am sure if you had done three or four of these you would have built up a sequence and whilst not quiet a walk in the park, easily achievable.
So if this is a one off repair for you, I'd get a LR workshop to do it for you.
If you are likely to do more - then go for it. It's not impossible.
Just my opinion........ [bigsmile] Others may disagree.

Thanks to all those who contributed to this thread. Appreciated.

[DaveKelly]

However this adventure didn't end as planned. The Left Hand sound proofing cover didn't get placed in position correctly.
So to correct my mistake involved decoupling that water pipe over the back of the motor.
The bracket that secures the pipe has two bolts that come in from the back. Unless you have fingers 200 mm long and as skinny as number 8 fencing wire its no easy mission.
So here is how I executed it plus a couple of other suggestions.
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