4bd1 county oil and fuel filter different to perentie?

[Jesse.s]

hi i have ordered genuine oil and fuel filter for 4bd1 perentie thinking they would be the same as on the county.
the oil and fuel filter on my county look like they haven't been changed since 1986 which should have been a dead giveaway and on closer inspection the oil filter has a bolt on the top, so im guessing these are filter canisters that you refill paper filters into?
My sump plug also looks like it has a breather? Is this sump plug normal or has some one possibly lost the sump plug and attached their bell house breather plug. I will attach some photos.
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[Blknight.aus]

thats a cartridge filter, and the drain plug looks like its a tap to make changing easy and clean, just couple a hose and open it up.

[JDNSW]

I think the filters changed during County production. And yes, as Dave says, they are cartridge filters - the oil filter looks like mine, but the fuel filter does not. Note that there are a few 4BD1 Counties about that started life as V8s, and heaven knows where the engine in them came from!

[Bigbjorn]

I think the filters changed during County production. And yes, as Dave says, they are cartridge filters - the oil filter looks like mine, but the fuel filter does not. Note that there are a few 4BD1 Counties about that started life as V8s, and heaven knows where the engine in them came from!

My 1986 County-Isuzu has spin-on filters both oil and fuel.

[rar110]

My 1986 County had cartridge type filters. I thought the spin on upgrade didn’t happen until LR went to push button doors on the County in about 1988.

[Blknight.aus]

there are a few 4BD1 Counties about that started life as V8s, and heavens where the engine in them came from!

you used too many letters, I took some out.

yes, the message was there for the devout.

[Jesse.s]

you used too many letters, I took some out.

yes, the message was there for the devout.

haha to funny [biggrin]

would you drain your fuel sedimenter the same on the cartridge filter? im going to clean it out when i change the filter and im also going to take the banjo bolt off the lift pump that has the little filter inside. if any one has any pointers to stop me from making some rookie era please share. iv done a nice little drawing here to make communication easy.
on the fuel pump image Orange is hand pump.....can some one tell me banjo bolt that has the filter in it?
as far as bleeding gos which line would you crack on the fuel filter.
sorry if this is all really simple stuff but i dont have a manual to refer to and just a few things im not 100 percent shore about

163863


163856

[Blknight.aus]

haha to funny [biggrin]

would you drain your fuel sedimenter the same on the cartridge filter? im going to clean it out when i change the filter and im also going to take the banjo bolt off the lift pump that has the little filter inside. if any one has any pointers to stop me from making some rookie era please share. iv done a nice little drawing here to make communication easy.
on the fuel pump image Orange is hand pump.....can some one tell me banjo bolt that has the filter in it?
as far as bleeding gos which line would you crack on the fuel filter.
sorry if this is all really simple stuff but i dont have a manual to refer to and just a few things im not 100 percent shore about

163863


163856

Yep, drain the fuel sedimentor on every service. you can also replace part of it to put a second filter in there as well without affecting the water seperation feature. The filter up on the engine will also provide some water seperation as well, catch and inspect the fuel when it comes out, and while you have all the lines apart or the filters off, blow em back with some compressed air to clear any gathering junk out.

cracking either of the orange or purple indicated bolts on the filter head will result in a good fuel bleed, if you've drained the injector pump, theres a bleed screw on that as well however I rarely bother with it, once youve got fuel up on the filter head lock it off, pump 10 more times, crack the injectors and crank it till they spit lock them off and start it up.


the strainer is in the banjo on the bottom of the lift pump, its on the inlet side. (green arrow)

[Jesse.s]

Yep, drain the fuel sedimentor on every service. you can also replace part of it to put a second filter in there as well without affecting the water seperation feature. The filter up on the engine will also provide some water seperation as well, catch and inspect the fuel when it comes out, and while you have all the lines apart or the filters off, blow em back with some compressed air to clear any gathering junk out.

cracking either of the orange or blue indicated bolts on the filter head will result in a good fuel bleed, if you've drained the injector pump, theres a bleed screw on that as well however I rarely bother with it, once youve got fuel up on the filter head lock it off, pump 10 more times, crack the injectors and crank it till they spit lock them off and start it up.


the strainer is in the banjo on the bottom of the lift pump, its on the inlet side. (green arrow)

thanks heaps for that. When you crack the injectors and you say crank it you mean turn it over as in turn the key? So that the fuel pump pushes any air left between the filter and injectors?

[Blknight.aus]

thanks heaps for that. When you crack the injectors and you say crank it you mean turn it over as in turn the key? So that the fuel pump pushes any air left between the filter and injectors?

yep. I usually do it by standing on the lhs of the vehicle, manually bridging the starter solenoid while watching the injector unions,

watch the edit in my previouspost......

[Jesse.s]

Awesome haha thought that's what you ment I didn't want to assume anything wrong though. can't wait to give it a go and see if it makes a difference regardless if I do notice a difference or not its good to no your getting clean fuel.
Thanks for all the help

[Red90]

Not sure if it is mentioned but the oil filter has its own drain. You want to take that off and let it drain before changing the filter or you will make a huge mess.

The sump has a Fumoto valve on it.

[JDNSW]

I have found that there is no need to open anything to bleed the fuel system - just pump until it feels solid, then another dozen or so pumps. I find that it will start after a few turns as long as the battery is good without cracking injector lines.

[Jesse.s]

Not sure if it is mentioned but the oil filter has its own drain. You want to take that off and let it drain before changing the filter or you will make a huge mess.
The sump has a Fumoto valve on it.

Yeah I did notice that when crawling around underneath. love the the up side down filter makes so much seance for civilised oil changes.

[Blknight.aus]

I have found that there is no need to open anything to bleed the fuel system - just pump until it feels solid, then another dozen or so pumps. I find that it will start after a few turns as long as the battery is good without cracking injector lines.

IF its just a filter change I do the same thing, however, it primes up easier and faster if you crack the bleeder nipple. This is especially true if you have a leaking primer pump.

[JDNSW]

IF its just a filter change I do the same thing, however, it primes up easier and faster if you crack the bleeder nipple. This is especially true if you have a leaking primer pump.

I replaced the primer pump on mine when I got the injectors overhauled last year!

[Blknight.aus]

I replaced the primer pump

you can do that?

[JDNSW]

you can do that?

I did not do that personally, but the mechanic who pulled the injectors and sent them off for rebuild did. I don't know where he got the primer pump from, I assume, the same place that overhauled the injectors - I can't remember the name, but I think they are in Wagga.

[Blknight.aus]

I did not do that personally, but the mechanic who pulled the injectors and sent them off for rebuild did. I don't know where he got the primer pump from, I assume, the same place that overhauled the injectors - I can't remember the name, but I think they are in Wagga.

I still need a sarcasm font....

[Jesse.s]

I think the filters changed during County production. And yes, as Dave says, they are cartridge filters - the oil filter looks like mine, but the fuel filter does not. Note that there are a few 4BD1 Counties about that started life as V8s, and heaven knows where the engine in them came from!

Maybe you could help me with something is this the filter you use in your cartridge filter I'll attach a photo. I just changed the oil, the 0 ring that comes with the filter that sits on the base off the outer shell of the cartridge seems a bit small not shore if it just stretches out a bit as you tighten it down. I guess if no oil comes out its good but I wasn't shore if I should have put the old O ring back on instead if the new one was wrong. it also looked like some one had secured the old O ring down with some kind of joint compound. Can anyone tell me if this is common practice
Thanks



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[Jesse.s]

I still need a sarcasm font....
Just ignore the quote Dave I'm not shore how to tag people in comments. I feel like this might be an easy answer for you. Let me no if you think there is a right or wrong way to do what I'm talking about in the previous comment I no oil changes is really getting down to basics so feel free to use sarcasm font if you have managed to puzzle that one yet [smilebigeye]

[Blknight.aus]

Just ignore the quote Dave I'm not shore how to tag people in comments. I feel like this might be an easy answer for you. Let me no if you think there is a right or wrong way to do what I'm talking about in the previous comment I no oil changes is really getting down to basics so feel free to use sarcasm font if you have managed to puzzle that one yet [smilebigeye]

no mate, that was aimed at JDNSW specifically about changing the lift pump, its a simple easy fix that takes about 10 minutes to do, the part is moderately commen yet most of them get ignored.

If you need a hand getting to learn your way around your vehicle, it just so happens, I know a guy....

the seal should be a slightly tight fit around the base of the filter housing and the canister should be a tight fit over that... if you have that type of filter housing. if you have the other one...

the seal should sit in the groove of the filter canister and be a snug fit staning about 1mm clear of the top of the cansiter. If you dont have that one...

theres a groove in the filter housing and the canister has a flat lip on it, the seal fits in the groove of the housing and the canister fits onto that, the seal should fit snugly and about 1mm proud.

the drain bung for the filter is on the filter housing.

I usually use a little rubber grease or old engine oil, if thats been used excessively and the seal is brilliant there will be some left over. if its a sealastic type material then no, that shouldnt be needed unless theres been some kind of emergency repair carried out and ignrored.

[Jesse.s]

no mate, that was aimed at JDNSW specifically about changing the lift pump, its a simple easy fix that takes about 10 minutes to do, the part is moderately commen yet most of them get ignored.

If you need a hand getting to learn your way around your vehicle, it just so happens, I know a guy....

the seal should be a slightly tight fit around the base of the filter housing and the canister should be a tight fit over that... if you have that type of filter housing. if you have the other one...

the seal should sit in the groove of the filter canister and be a snug fit staning about 1mm clear of the top of the cansiter. If you dont have that one...

theres a groove in the filter housing and the canister has a flat lip on it, the seal fits in the groove of the housing and the canister fits onto that, the seal should fit snugly and about 1mm proud.

the drain bung for the filter is on the filter housing.

I usually use a little rubber grease or old engine oil, if thats been used excessively and the seal is brilliant there will be some left over. if its a sealastic type material then no, that shouldnt be needed unless theres been some kind of emergency repair carried out and ignrored.

Haha I no I was just giving you permition to use sarcasm because I thought I might be asking a stumped question.
I have lots more of them to [bigrolf]
thanks for all the help Dave
I have the groove in the filter housing and the flat lip on the canister drain plug on the bottom of the housing type.
The rubber ring I have didn't sit in the grove of the housing it sits just shy of it and couldn't get it to pop in... I was hoping it splays out and pops in as you tighten it down?
Maybe that's a bit optimistic.

Also after a long drive if I put the car in nutrel my foot off the clutch some thing is making a shattering noise.
I no that its symptomatic of a front input shaft bearing to do that.
is it possible its just springs in the pressure plate?
It didn't do this until after driving for about an hour, the next day no noise. Is it possible its because my gear box oil is a bit low?
I have my rear tyres let down to 20 psi to fit her in the garage and they where like that when I changed the gearbox oil, heaps of oil came out the filler plug when I opened it the first time. Maybe I should pump tires up and check levels?
Maybe I should have started a new thread for that one

[Blknight.aus]

I thought I might be asking a stumped question.

I have the groove in the filter housing and the flat lip on the canister drain plug on the bottom of the housing type.


I assume you mean stupid question, canned response.
No-one has ever asked me a stupid question. In any room or group of people there will likely be at least one other person who isnt asking that same question because they think its too menial to ask. There is a stupid question, Its the one you think of and dont ask.

Never be shy about asking a question, Stupidity lies at the feet of those who deny answering the question because of their judgement. Ask your questions, odds are if I dont answer it first its because someone else with the same base of knowledge answers it before me. Dont outright trust my answers, if other people are offering answers look at those to, I make mistakes. Always stop and consider the info you have, in the situation you are in. If it doesnt make sense, feel right or look right then theres a reason, find out what that is and rectify the info or the situation.

Heres an example

Dave how do I check the vavles on a 3.9....
( technical answer omitted here)
Ok, but what about the other 4 cylinders....

no, dont ask, yes its happened and no, you cant set the v8 valves up using the isuzu specs...




Also after a long drive if I put the car in nutrel my foot off the clutch some thing is making a shattering noise.
I no that its symptomatic of a front input shaft bearing to do that.
is it possible its just springs in the pressure plate?
It didn't do this until after driving for about an hour, the next day no noise. Is it possible its because my gear box oil is a bit low?
I have my rear tyres let down to 20 psi to fit her in the garage and they where like that when I changed the gearbox oil, heaps of oil came out the filler plug when I opened it the first time. Maybe I should pump tires up and check levels?
Maybe I should have started a new thread for that one

could be the guide tube on the gearbox input shaft, fork, clutch springs, layshaft front bearing or input shaft bearing failing. Check the transfer case oil as well as the gearbox oil, If you have the 4 speed lt95 they are prone to using the seal sleeve to pump oil one way or the other. dont forget to pull the strainer, what comes out in the oil is a key diagnostic clue.

[Jesse.s]

I assume you mean stupid question, canned response.
No-one has ever asked me a stupid question. In any room or group of people there will likely be at least one other person who isnt asking that same question because they think its too menial to ask. There is a stupid question, Its the one you think of and dont ask.

Never be shy about asking a question, Stupidity lies at the feet of those who deny answering the question because of their judgement. Ask your questions, odds are if I dont answer it first its because someone else with the same base of knowledge answers it before me. Dont outright trust my answers, if other people are offering answers look at those to, I make mistakes. Always stop and consider the info you have, in the situation you are in. If it doesnt make sense, feel right or look right then theres a reason, find out what that is and rectify the info or the situation.

Heres an example

Dave how do I check the vavles on a 3.9....
( technical answer omitted here)
Ok, but what about the other 4 cylinders....

no, dont ask, yes its happened and no, you cant set the v8 valves up using the isuzu specs...




could be the guide tube on the gearbox input shaft, fork, clutch springs, layshaft front bearing or input shaft bearing failing. Check the transfer case oil as well as the gearbox oil, If you have the 4 speed lt95 they are prone to using the seal sleeve to pump oil one way or the other. dont forget to pull the strainer, what comes out in the oil is a key diagnostic clue.

wise words i will definitely make my own decisions but it is good to have other pairs of eyes that know the car
so the filter was leaking oil when i started the car hears a picture of the rubber ring as you can see it sits just shy of the groove.. dos it look right the other one that was on it was pretty much the same size. am i best sticking the ring to the cartridge and fitting it that way or is that just the wrong part
163990

[Blknight.aus]

thats the wrong o ring, thats the one for the much earlier upside downy filter housing that seals on the inside edge, make sure the old oring fits in the goove and take a trip to somewhere like AB seals on sydney rd in campbelfield and get one from them. You can also make them from oring splice kits if you have one and know how.

If you've got a vernier its a doddle to measure up and get one on spec.

If you dont have a verneier, but you have bearing blue (or similar) useit to mark the housing then transfer to the cansiter and take that along so they can see the sizing...

[Blknight.aus]

Just checked my assortment while looking for something else, I think I might have an oring to suit right here in my hand...
If not its going to be bigger in size but the same diameter so you could cut it to size and take it to a suitable oring shop...

[Jesse.s]

Just checked my assortment while looking for something else, I think I might have an oring to suit right here in my hand...
If not its going to be bigger in size but the same diameter so you could cut it to size and take it to a suitable oring shop...

thanks dave i just saw this.
I ended up getting a 105x4 o ring from an enginears supise stoor in geelong, i think the corect size is 106mm or 107mm but they didnt have that size.
i gave it a gentle stretch and it fit in the groove perfectly. ill definetly keep my eye on it but so far all good.
maybe ill just get a roll of it and cut it to size in the future if i cant fined the corect filter part

[Jesse.s]

on the upside my engien oil got a flush [biggrin]

[Blknight.aus]

thanks dave i just saw this.
i gave it a gentle stretch and it fit in the groove perfectly. ill definetly keep my eye on it but so far all good.



Nope thats how they're ment to fit.

make sure to give it a wipe with engine oil or rubber grease before you fit it so it deforms correctly when you screw the filter canister down. If I'm having one thats being a bit of a pig I'll try installing it dry and then lubing the canister lip before fitting it up.

[p38arover]

If you want to revert to the standard 4BD1 spin-on oil filter, KLR Automotive have the oil filter adapter in stock.

See Spin-on Oil Filter Housing, 4BD1 - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/spin-on-oil-filter-head-4bd1/)

[Jesse.s]

If you want to revert to the standard 4BD1 spin-on oil filter, KLR Automotive have the oil filter adapter in stock.

See Spin-on Oil Filter Housing, 4BD1 - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/spin-on-oil-filter-head-4bd1/)

I'll see how this turns out I feel like I I just got it sussed would like to keep it all as original as possible. But if parts get hard to fined It would definitely be a more practical option

[JDNSW]

I seem to have no problems getting filters from my local filter place. Mind you, they also have filters for my 2a and for my fifty year old Chamberlain!

[Jesse.s]

I seem to have no problems getting filters from my local filter place. Mind you, they also have filters for my 2a and for my fifty year old Chamberlain!

Next time you have the oil or fuel filter in front of you can you send me the part brand and number or a picture of the box?:)

[JDNSW]

Oil filter: Baldwin P266 or Sakura O-1502

Fuel: Sakura F-1505 or Isuzu 5-87810050-0 or Isuzu 5-13240063-0 (these Isuzu numbers are off the Sakura box)

[Gordie]

No doubt they all cross reference, but here are my filter numbers Ryco and Fleetguard....

Oil Ryco R2435P

Fuel Fleetguard FF5070

If you have any trouble sourcing them, go to a truck parts supplier. Don't let the car part places sell you the Ryco on their listing for a 4BD1, it is the same size but has different size hole at one end, their parts books don't have the county isuzu, they just have it for isuzu 4bd1 trucks.

[p38arover]

I did not do that personally, but the mechanic who pulled the injectors and sent them off for rebuild did. I don't know where he got the primer pump from, I assume, the same place that overhauled the injectors - I can't remember the name, but I think they are in Wagga.

These things?

Priming pump (https://klrautomotive.com.au/search-results-page?q=Priming+pump)

Or this?

4x4 Perentie Lift Pump Complete - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/4x4-perentie-lift-pump-complete/)

[JDNSW]

First link - the original was the old style one, but the replacement is the new style one. I assume that was the easier to get.