EPB failing sound, but different

[Lukeis]

https://youtu.be/SxG3VObCuOgRecently had the dreaded screech from the EPB and it wouldn’t disengage.

I then used the manual release in the centre consol and adjusted the park brake shoes according to the instructions on brodys brake bible.

now it’s making this different sound and not engaging

assume I’m up for a new actuator, any tips on finding the parts and doing this job?

Discovery 4 - electric park brake not engaging - YouTube (https://youtu.be/SxG3VObCuOg)

[justinc]

https://youtu.be/SxG3VObCuOgRecently had the dreaded screech from the EPB and it wouldn’t disengage.

I then used the manual release in the centre consol and adjusted the park brake shoes according to the instructions on brodys brake bible.

now it’s making this different sound and not engaging

assume I’m up for a new actuator, any tips on finding the parts and doing this job?

Discovery 4 - electric park brake not engaging - YouTube (https://youtu.be/SxG3VObCuOg)


You need to manually remove the actuator plastic cover, and umjam the screw threaded rod, wind it over to the other side and rejoin the other cable to it.

[PerthDisco]

Check out the Britpart how to YouTube videos

[Lukeis]

Has anyone had this exact issue and managed to get away with unjamming it and not replacing?

ive seen the Brit part video but it’s about replacement not fixing the existing one. I think they are $$$

[BigJon]

It is doable. I had a brand new one jam recently. Ended up replacing the discs and shoes to get it working correctly once it was unjammed.

[PerthDisco]

Has anyone had this exact issue and managed to get away with unjamming it and not replacing?

ive seen the Brit part video but it’s about replacement not fixing the existing one. I think they are $$$

Nope it’s about removing and rebuilding the existing kit stripped plastic gear. They now sell a parts kit.


Electric park brake adjustment - after manual release
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic'share_fid=669&share_tid=279994&share_pid=3015900&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaulro%2Ecom%2Fafvb%2Fshowp ost%2Ephp%3Fp%3D3015900&share_type=t&link_source=app

[justinc]

The problem you have is not a stripped gear. The noise is the drive clutch screaming. You need to remove the cover in situ with a T20 torx bit, lever it off as they are glued in place too. You will see on the passenger side of the actuator the complete length of the brass rod is exposed. It is jammed hard up against the passenger side stop. You will need to use a short flat blade screwdriver angled down against one of the external flutes on the brass rod, and lever it down sharply using a lever or bar against the underside of the floor. Basically it needs to rotate anticlockwise when viewed through the passenger footwell. Then you can rotate it by hand all the way through the motor drive to the drivers side, to pick up the drivers side cable. Pull them together and they will be latched after a click is heard. Reassemble, recheck shoe adjustment, and that's it!

[justinc]

I have done this exact job many, many times.

[Lukeis]

Great description, thanks for that!

I’ll be doing this as soon as I get my gear unpacked at home

[justinc]

Great description, thanks for that!

I’ll be doing this as soon as I get my gear unpacked at home

Feel free to ask plenty of questions then.

[Ferret]

I’ll be doing this as soon as I get my gear unpacked at home

It jams because the hand brake is in need of adjustment. When you free it, ensure you adjust the handbrake otherwise it will jam again. Follow your brake bible guide for the hand brake adjustment.

[theelms66]

Yes I have , as Justin said. Clutch in plastic gears are doing their job. Cheap fix just a bit fiddly. Mine was the RRS (same thing).
I dropped spare wheel. Removed EPB mounting bracket off the chassis and rotated the brake unit 180° so access is much more comfortable.

My red arrows show where the two come together and tighten up on the thread.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200820/306a0a1380d57d8b548c8841da414ff6.jpg

[Disco-tastic]

Has anyone had this exact issue and managed to get away with unjamming it and not replacing?

ive seen the Brit part video but it’s about replacement not fixing the existing one. I think they are $$$I had this issue and did what justinc has said, but my mechanic needed to take the outer boot off to get additional leverage. Cant remember exactly what tool he used (I think a flat blade and hammer) but we couldnt get it to budge with just the cover off.

Also, remember to reseal the cover when you put it back together.

[Lukeis]

Thanks for the image. That’s a big help.

I’m confused a little about the rotation to the end and then the cable latching part, I can’t see the cable in this picture but sure within two minutes on the phone it will make sense if anyone is able and willing to send me their number so I now I’m on the right path?


Yes I have , as Justin said. Clutch in plastic gears are doing their job. Cheap fix just a bit fiddly. Mine was the RRS (same thing).
I dropped spare wheel. Removed EPB mounting bracket off the chassis and rotated the brake unit 180° so access is much more comfortable.

My red arrows show where the two come together and tighten up on the thread.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200820/306a0a1380d57d8b548c8841da414ff6.jpg

[LRD414]

I have done this exact job many, many times.

Wish more mechanics knew the detail. So many just fit complete new modules at the first noise (after never being adjusted prior).

Cheers,
Scott

[Lukeis]

Just to close this one out.

I did this yesterday using the above tips and a quick call with Dan which was very helpful - job done successfully, now after two months I have a hand brake again.

To do the job you only need to lift the car, I removed both wheels and the spare but this wasn’t necessary. However as I decided to check the adjustment on the shoes having the wheels off wasnt a waste of time.

Access to the torx screws is very tight but luckily I was able to undo them with my fingers just holding the torx socket and turning them.

a fairly decent pry with the cover to break the silicone seal - used a pry tool but a flat head screw driver would also work

the brass rod I needed to use a hammer and short flat screwdriver to get the initial bit Unjammed then a couple of quick turns with my fingers before jumping in the cabin and using the button to activate the EPB, that then did the rest of the work to spool along and reattach the cable for me.

The picture below is upside down and shows it after the above fix has been done. It took me a moment to realise this when mine looked different.

quick silicone on the cover, redo the torx screws as it’s all done. Thanks boys