Bit of a odd Carburettor

[dennisS1]

Rebuilding a 2L engine for a mate that is restoring a family 1955 86” and when it came to carbie time this is what I found, all jets are as normal except only Pump no economy jet membrane, plastic float suggesting that it may be a more modern unit. Cleaned up OK so will try it. Any one seen one like this before?
Dennis

[5380]

Rebuilding a 2L engine for a mate that is restoring a family 1955 86” and when it came to carbie time this is what I found, all jets are as normal except only Pump no economy jet membrane, plastic float suggesting that it may be a more modern unit. Cleaned up OK so will try it. Any one seen one like this before?
Dennis

Dennis, Solex made carbies for just about every European car manufacturers plus a few British makers as well, plus motorcycles. If you can find a model number stamped on a raised panel (s) on the body near the float chamber, that will give you a clue. It could be for a French car, or a VW, Porche etc. The carb pictured has a push on fuel line, LR carbie has a screw in fuel pipe fitting and has "British Made" cast on the float chamber cover. The carb you want for your Land Rover is a Solex 32PBI-2 plus they usually have a coded application /date stamp as well. I just looked at one stamped LD56. This translates to "L" for Land Rover, "D' for April and "56" for 1956. January is "A", "B" is February etc. The letter "i" is not used. So the perfect carb for your 1955 86" would be marked L_55. Any month letter later than "G" or "H" would most likely have been fitted to a 1956 model year vehicle. You should also look down the carb to check that it has "25" cast on the mouth of the choke tube indicating that it is fitted with a 25mm choke tube for a 2.0L, the 1.6L had a 23mm tube. I have found a few 32PBI-2 carbs at rural secondhand/antique shops for not a lot of money. Most older LR Solex carbs have worn throttle spindles and throttle body spindle bores as well as bowed mounting flanges. These things can be repaired. If the flange is badly bowed, warm it with a gentle gas flame, place it on some thick hard paper on a smooth FLAT anvil under a nice solid piece of smooth FLAT steel (my steel piece is 20mm thick about 125mm long and 75mm wide, again with paper between the steel and zinc die casting and smack the steel piece firmly and squarley with a 4lb hammer. Check it with a straight edge and keep tapping it until the gap across the bore is fairly tiny. Then you can lap it on a flat surface to level the last few thousandsths of an inch. Don't be tempted to lap it flat if there is any thing more than 0.010" or 0.25mm bowing. If you lap it too thin, it will just bow again. Have fun, 5380.

[Tote]

It's not off a jeep is it? That was what the solex copies were originally made for and they don't have the economy jet.

Regards,
Tote