Fuel Pump Access - Can I Cut These Out?

[R1CHY_RICH]

I'm currently creating a fuel pump access hole for my 2006 Defender 110. I have googled heaps regarding this and every image I come across is different to what I have.

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As you can see, I have not one but two steel braces (Sorry I don't know the correct name for them). I have seen examples of one, and they just cut them out.

Can I just cut both out or will I be doing something horrific to the defenders structural integrity?

What would you do here? I'm a little concerned.

[gromit]

I'd be concerned cutting them out. From the comments in the link below several have done it without ill effect.

Defender Td5 - Fuel Pump Access Hole (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/30867-defender-td5-fuel-pump-access-hole.html)


Colin

[4bee]

I'd be concerned cutting them out. From the comments in the link below several have done it without ill effect.

Defender Td5 - Fuel Pump Access Hole (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/30867-defender-td5-fuel-pump-access-hole.html)


Colin


Surely they can't be all that different under that floor? Or can they?

On my old '95 D1 Facelift there was a round panel under the mat & let into & flush fit with the floor. Remove two or three screws & the top of the pump was revealed which could be totally removed straight upwards if required.


Access to fuel fittings & Electrics was a piece of cake.


Why the hell they didn't co-ordinate that with the section making the floor on yours is anybodie's guess. One shouldn't need to cut strengthening pieces (as that is what it is) to access a main component.

Mind you, I believe one had to remove the tank for accessing the pump in days of yore, so maybe you have got that setup. Pretty **** poor show though.
If it was mine I would have no hesitation in fitting an infill piece of 16 or 18g shallow channel facing down to one side of the pump to support the floor before doing that, but as it is not a wide gap, personally I can't see a problem. Just ensure it is fitted to strengthen the floor & not to weaken it. NB Someone on the previous thread suggested using Riv-Nuts. A good idea & them being threaded, would make a more sturdy job of it as well as making it more accessible . Fitting a new shallow U channel should be ok you just need to shift it's new position to the right in your photo, so it is clear of the pump even a bit.


BEFORE TACKLING THIS JOB ENSURE ANY CHANNEL WILL NOT FOUL ANY COMPONENT GET A MIRROR IN THERE TO HAVE A SHUFTI.


NB. Don't rest any angles etc on the pump to support the floor. Oh, & don't let the drill slip & stick a hole in the tank.[bigsad]

[DazzaTD5]

I really wouldn't be concerned about the small amount you are cutting away.

The below pic is a Defender 2009 (TDCi, puma) and it looks like one of the braces isnt even there on that model.

[W&KO]

Thought I had a better pic off mine in a 2000 defer. Access was already their, I removed it when I put a new floor in.....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200915/7139b4596d60d93ca54c01cf787ac414.jpgvery certain it very much like the pic Dazza posted.

[4bee]

Thought I had a better pic off mine in a 2000 defer. Access was already their, I removed it when I put a new floor in.....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200915/7139b4596d60d93ca54c01cf787ac414.jpgvery certain it very much like the pic Dazza posted.

May I recommend that the corners are cut with a radius to stop the penetration splitting out wards from the corners?

[W&KO]

May I recommend that the corners are cut with a radius to stop the penetration splitting out wards from the corners?

Agree, I wasn’t responsible for the initial hole.....

The new floor has slight radius’s. Bit hard to tell as it’s been coated in Bully Liner.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200915/507f6abcf89e5d4af7fcb366391aa0a4.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200915/bbc4f7031b548ac11360231fce68a5b3.jpg

[ramblingboy42]

yeah, so its been there 14 years before access was needed, cut it out fix it , brace it back up for another 14yrs

most D1/D2 owners have cut a flap in their rear carpet for access because the bastard pumps have to be removed much too often.

[4bee]

Agree, I wasn’t responsible for the initial hole.....

The new floor has slight radius’s. Bit hard to tell as it’s been coated in Bully Liner.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200915/507f6abcf89e5d4af7fcb366391aa0a4.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200915/bbc4f7031b548ac11360231fce68a5b3.jpg

Apologies. Post was meant for Richy_Rich for when he cuts a bigger hole, but I am sure there must a formula for calculating an appropriate Radius. It is surprising how much crap gets in there on top of the pump. I used to clean that from time to time & give it a spray of preservative of some sort. Never had a problem with crappy connections etc.

[W&KO]

Apologies. Post was meant for Richy_Rich for when he cuts a bigger hole, but I am sure there must a formula for calculating an appropriate Radius. It is surprising how much crap gets in there on top of the pump. I used to clean that from time to time & give it a spray of preservative of some sort. Never had a problem with crappy connections etc.

All good.....

Yes I was quite surprised as well, mine was completely buried.

[mfc]

I cut out one [rear to front] in a 2002 110, it has a brown Davis tank so was in a slightly different location ...no issues 200,000 kms later...I had to do it at Copley caravan park, it’d be the first thing I’d do to any other rover I owned [had 110 litres in the tank at the time]

[Parker]

Ignorance is bliss. Until I saw this the other day I had no intention of worrying about my pump. Now I’ll have to prepare. I’ll have to take The fridge off the slide, the slide off the carpeted ply, the ply off the drawer sides, cut some ply with a circular hole, pull out the slide, somehow climb in to the back, locate the prepared ply, cut a hole with hole saw, take out the pump and clean the filter, put it all together again and buy and stash a spare pump with the hoses and belts. BUT, if ever the pump packs up I know what to do thanks to AULRO.
BTW, lots to of pumps on the bay...anyone bought and installed one of the sub $100?

[4bee]

Ignorance is bliss. Until I saw this the other day I had no intention of worrying about my pump. Now I’ll have to prepare. I’ll have to take The fridge off the slide, the slide off the carpeted ply, the ply off the drawer sides, cut some ply with a circular hole, pull out the slide, somehow climb in to the back, locate the prepared ply, cut a hole with hole saw, take out the pump and clean the filter, put it all together again and buy and stash a spare pump with the hoses and belts. BUT, if ever the pump packs up I know what to do thanks to AULRO.
BTW, lots to of pumps on the bay...anyone bought and installed one of the sub $100?


Not actually installed one but I did purchase a Pump Motor on the "bay" some years ago (sort of 10 years) & never used it & I got rid of my'95 D1 about a year ago & gave the pump motor away with her.

I had wondered, because I had used Moreys Fuel additive in the tank for a number of years, which I hoped had helped lubricate the pump assisting it's long life. Moreys seems to be an oily based brew.

Can't say for sure, but it wasn't added for that reason, but who can say whether it wasn't a good thing using Moreys. I didn't have any injector problems either or indeed any other fuel components except an Idle Air Valve but that only passed air not fuel.

[PWat]

Ignorance is bliss. Until I saw this the other day I had no intention of worrying about my pump. Now I’ll have to prepare. I’ll have to take The fridge off the slide, the slide off the carpeted ply, the ply off the drawer sides, cut some ply with a circular hole, pull out the slide, somehow climb in to the back, locate the prepared ply, cut a hole with hole saw, take out the pump and clean the filter, put it all together again and buy and stash a spare pump with the hoses and belts. BUT, if ever the pump packs up I know what to do thanks to AULRO.
BTW, lots to of pumps on the bay...anyone bought and installed one of the sub $100?

I installed at $250ish pump last year (can’t remember who from) and it works fine. I decided it made more sense to put the new one in and keep the original 20-year-old one for a spare.

Can’t comment on cutting holes in the floor - I have a 130 and changed the pump because I had to take the tray off.

[dayswaste]

I part cut the cross bars
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