Gearbox getting hot...

[NUTTTR]

So... weather isn't hot yet (25deg here today)...

Went for a ~1hr on the freeway and noted (watching IIDTool) that the gearbox temp was ~115 and had been slowly climbing the whole time... Got to Ourimbah trails and it ~122 and still going up...

So rather than spending an hour driving on dirt roads, I headed back home - the temp got all the way up to 129 and the whole way home it slowly dropped down to ~115 and stayed there. After being parked for 10mins and going again - it was ~116deg - so, stable now.

I've tried looking at the diagrams and i didn't realise there was a thermostat... and this SOUNDS a lot like either a stuck thermostat or one that was a little blocked (and has subsequently sent whatever is blocking it through the entire cooling system :))...

The engine is ~90deg as it has either a low temp thermostat or it's stuck open...

Has anyone had the thermostat for the gearbox fail and what temp should it open up at? I ASSUME it's on the cooling side only so i can just swap that part alone???

Ninja edit... I checked the oil line temperature when home and it matched IIDTool ~116 deg so it doesn't appear to be a faulty sensor.

[101RRS]

And if you did not have your IIDtool plugged in you would have not have noted the temps and none the wiser - the car's systems didn't tell you that you had a system so one can assume you dont - yet.

Too much information can be dangerous but then it can alert you to possible future issues.

Until the car fault systems advise you have an issue then I would be tempted to leave it.

Garry

[harlie]

what gearbox?

I know the GM5 in my old TD6 would go up to about 96 when working hard and back down to 88/89 as soon as the load reduced or the TC locked up - didn't make any difference towing.

I'd definitely be investigating.

The attitude that there's no issue if there's no lights is a fantasy. The same TD6 said everything was fine when the engine thermostat was stuck - only noticeable difference to me was a jump in fuel usage, temp gauge read perfect, diagnostic kit showed coolant temp wasn't getting above 60deg. I'm pretty sure driving a diesel for the rest of it's life at 55deg while it's pouring extra fuel in an attempt to warm up would not be good for it. Sure it won't blow up immediately and leave me stranded but it would be limiting it's life at best.

Either it is running hotter than it likes, or a sensor? Either way I'd be tracking it down.

[NUTTTR]

And if you did not have your IIDtool plugged in you would have not have noted the temps and none the wiser - the car's systems didn't tell you that you had a system so one can assume you dont - yet.

Too much information can be dangerous but then it can alert you to possible future issues.

Until the car fault systems advise you have an issue then I would be tempted to leave it.

Garry

hahaha - 100% what i was thinking while i was typing this post :D

But... Yes, true.

It's an M62 V8 - 5 speed 5HP24...

After seeing the temp go down (annoyed too because i was already part way home :(), i started wondering if it was just "sticky" and therefore it'll be fine from now...?

[101RRS]

You are better raising your concerns than not - after you have a range of opinions as you are starting to receive you can have a better idea on what the way ahead should be - along with my advice to watch and see - I would keep the IIdtool connected and see if there is consistently high temps or if it was just a one off and then decide if you need to start pulling things apart.

Good luck with it.

Garry

[NUTTTR]

You are better raising your concerns than not - after you have a range of opinions as you are starting to receive you can have a better idea on what the way ahead should be - along with my advice to watch and see - I would keep the IIdtool connected and see if there is consistently high temps or if it was just a one off and then decide if you need to start pulling things apart.

Good luck with it.

Garry

I finally found a post from RRPhil which said that overheat is 140deg C - so while i was getting towards that, it never got there.

Whether that was the gearbox working it's own magic cooling strategy, or it was the thermostat, etc... no idea... Hence the question.

I don't often go for drives this long, but I want to start and while i'm by myself breaking down is fine, but the family won't be impressed when they are with me :D

[NUTTTR]

Alright, left car since this morning... It's 13 deg outside.

Used IIDTool to check temps!

Radiator coolant temp: 18 c
Coolant temp: 24.8 c
Gearbox oil: 38 c

So clearly there's an issue with the temp sensor. It may not be +20 c all the time, but certainly at this temp it is.

Today I checked the temp of the pipes to the tranny cooler (using an IR, not laser one) and they registered 116 on the way there and 116 on the way back... Maybe the variance is less at 100deg, but it's definitely wildly out at room temp!

From other posts I've found they suggest the lower radiator gets clogged... This car has a Behr in it from 2008 (apparently the plastic one blew up after 5 years)... So I guess it could be clogged at the bottom and it's possibly worth draining the coolant and checking the lower radiator... I'm not keen to mess with things that work, but preventative maintenance is always better than failure!

[FisherX]

Hi NUTTER,

I had the exact same issue on my 03 M62. It was a blocked tranny cooler.

Easy to check. Drain your coolant and pop out the cooler from the plastic mount on the bottom of the radiator by sliding back the retaining clip and pulling it out. the oil lines can stay connected. Get your garden hose and stick it in each side of the cooler and see if you have a blockage. I'll bet you do.

On mine I had a full blockage so a coolant system flush wasn't going to help. I used a bit of coolant system acid cleaner in a squirty bottle to clean out mine until the new one arrived.

I also checked my Tranny thermostat and housing when I was checking for the issue with mine but it was fine and pretty clean inside.

When you get your new cooler I'll bet the oil line release tabs will brittle and you won't be able to get the oil lines off. A real PITA. To get mine off I used one of fuel line release plastic tool kits you get from supercheap but the tab that goes into the fitting is too short so you just grind down the outer part by about 5mm and it works a treat.

I also had the radiator out when I was doing my timing chains and although it was changed in 2016 there was quite a bit of brown flaky crap that came out of it when I flushed it. So I would recommend a good coolant system flush when you are putting it all back together.



Brand New Transmission Oil Cooler For Range Rover 4.4L W/ O-Rings Pfd000020 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-For-Range-Rover-4-4L-W-O-Rings-Pfd000020/222137056292'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId)

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[irubix]

Hey guys,

Ive just replaced my tranny cooler on my 05 M62. It was definitely blocked, however there are inconsistencies with the temp readout via the IIDTool.

My tool reads the temp as + 15 deg over what it actually is for the 'Oil Temperature' under the 'Transmission' values. I have validated this at the temp sensor area from the underside of the car on the pan with a laser thermo.

I now base all my temps on the 'Gearbox Temperature' under the 'TBOX-Transfer Case' values.

I asked RRPhil about this directly one time and he said yes they are inconsistent and asked what i was worried about, no codes have been thrown. I thought it was obvious!!

My values run from 90-100deg depending on what I'm doing, and i have validated the flow rates for the radiator etc via the LR bulletin to verify my radiator is not blocked LTB000080 attached.

You can check the temp sensor by hooking pins into the cable where it plugs into the TCM in the engine bay box (values attached), these came back on the money for me.

Im also halfway done converting to electric thermo fans (and have an 88 deg thermostat installed) and can say after running around with no clutch fan, just the aux working, the temps do stay quite hot in the gearbox, so i would check your fan clutch to see if it is engaging when hot. This could lead to inadequate cooling when loaded and driving slow.

Heres my rig after sitting for a day. Impossible for the Oil temp to be that high.

164909164910

[NUTTTR]

Ha! Nice one.

Good thought on the temp sensor in the transfer case. I was sitting on the fence about whether to worry about this or not, I've already got issues with the torque converter (the lock up clutch rumbling), so I'll need to get the box pulled and rebuilt at some point, for now I want to keep it going as long as possible...

Things like a blocked cooler will impact everything and is basic maintenance, so I'll have to drain coolant and check it I think. I'm pretty sure it's only a 30min job, but when I find it blocked, what is good to clean it with? White vinegar or something? Not sure what dissolves it if it's truly blocked.

I'm not keen on swapping the gearbox oil as I fear I'll have more problems after that, so losing as much oil as possible is going to be the goal!

[irubix]

These coolers can actually corrode internally the throw coolant through your oil, best idea would be to change it out instead of cleaning it if you're unsure as to if i has been changed previously, then its done and you'll sleep easier. Mine required replacement at around 120k

Get one of these tools, use it to disconnect the cooler oil lines. You don't lose too much oil doing this, just make sure you're checking the oil level correctly afterwards (car running at 40deg oil temp)
BMW Power Steering & Transmission Oil Cooler Line Disconnect Tool T&E Tools 4353 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-Power-Steering-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-Line-Disconnect-Tool-T-E-Tools-4353/262122011101'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

Do the LTB000080 test on the radiator, as the pickup is from the lower part of the radiator that can become blocked as well as the oil cooler.

I purchased a new cooler thermostat as well, both from FCP Euro cause lifetime replacement guarantee. If i ever want to replace it, i just send it back and they send me a new one for free.

PFD000020 - Cooler
PEL000060 - Thermostat

If it has been heating up over 100deg then the oil is likely degraded, check the colour of the oil see if smells burnt or not. You may decide to drop the oil pan to check if there's lots of metal on the magnets. If there is, probably need to decide whether you want to grenade your gearbox or get it early and not have to replace everything :D

Re the oil, dropping the pan and replacing the oil w/ some Dr Tranny can't hurt (or can it!?). Maybe not a full powerflush :)

[NUTTTR]

Thanks everyone!

I was wondering if these coolers corrode through, many cars do!

I'll watch it next time I drive and organise parts. At least the transmission cooler is fairly easy to get to, I'll do a flow test first and might pull the cooler off with the system full and see how much coolant falls out... Will let me know if it's flowing in radiator and if the cooler is blocked.

I know I'm eventually going to need tools like that, so I'll order that anyway!

I've already got shudder fix in the gearbox... Makes a difference while it's cool, but not when hot... contributing factor is probably that the gearbox appears to be getting too hot... So I'll fix that first.

I spoke to a tranny expert about it and as it isn't slipping and engages well, he said leave it and just wait until it's shift pattern starts to change then bring it in for a full rebuild and new TC...

Little bits at a time :)

[NUTTTR]

How much fluid do I need to order for the cooler? I'm assuming about 1L should be enough?

[FisherX]

More than enough. I'd say the cooler would hold 100ml if that. Depends how much you spill when you change it [bigsmile]

[NUTTTR]

So...

Pulled cooler off this morning... It wasn't blocked entirely, but definitely flows still...

Quite slowly but. I did flush it out and it's definitely flowing more. The radiator itself seems ok, I left it full and pulled the cooler off and a huge flood of water ensued...

So I think it flows ok. I checked the drain tap too and it definitely flows, it didn't seem overly restricted (20s to drain about 250ml).

I've refilled the system with water for now, will need to get some actual coolant!

After flushing it I'll keep an eye on it and see how it goes, if I was to guess I'd say actual flow through the transmission cooler was probably 20%... So not great.

This is what came out:
164925

[irubix]

Nice work, might be an idea to check the oil level in the box too, just to make sure its got enough to properly cool it. :)

Sounds like you caught it in time.

PS when checking the oil, make sure you have the car running and at the proper temp, i forgot the first time and got covered in oil haha

[NUTTTR]

Thanks!

I suspect that the temp sensor is about +15 or so... So that's driving the odd values...

On the other hand, I checked the "transfer case" gearbox temp... It's -40deg after being left overnight. So... something very wrong with that haha.

I'll keep an eye on it and retest the temp again after a longer run and see if it's actually hot or not. The cooler is definitely flowing water, so it isn't that. I'll be ordering a new one anyway, it appears to be a pretty low flow circuit and it's original!

At least there's no rush.

Oddly, when I first pulled it out, clear water was flowing out... And the coolant is definitely red, so maybe there is some partial blockage somewhere, I'll reinvestigate after I can check temps again... But radiator is from 08 and cooler from 02, both would do with a refresh.

[NUTTTR]

Hi NUTTER,

I had the exact same issue on my 03 M62. It was a blocked tranny cooler.

Easy to check. Drain your coolant and pop out the cooler from the plastic mount on the bottom of the radiator by sliding back the retaining clip and pulling it out. the oil lines can stay connected. Get your garden hose and stick it in each side of the cooler and see if you have a blockage. I'll bet you do.

On mine I had a full blockage so a coolant system flush wasn't going to help. I used a bit of coolant system acid cleaner in a squirty bottle to clean out mine until the new one arrived.

I also checked my Tranny thermostat and housing when I was checking for the issue with mine but it was fine and pretty clean inside.

When you get your new cooler I'll bet the oil line release tabs will brittle and you won't be able to get the oil lines off. A real PITA. To get mine off I used one of fuel line release plastic tool kits you get from supercheap but the tab that goes into the fitting is too short so you just grind down the outer part by about 5mm and it works a treat.

I also had the radiator out when I was doing my timing chains and although it was changed in 2016 there was quite a bit of brown flaky crap that came out of it when I flushed it. So I would recommend a good coolant system flush when you are putting it all back together.



Brand New Transmission Oil Cooler For Range Rover 4.4L W/ O-Rings Pfd000020 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-For-Range-Rover-4-4L-W-O-Rings-Pfd000020/222137056292'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId)

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To check in now I've got a cooler, etc on order, can you still reuse the hoses with broken release clips, or do you need whole new lines? (Or cut then off and use clamps??)

[FisherX]

You don't need to worry about getting new lines.

If you do get the oil lines off by removing the old release taps and using another tool, all you have to do is push the oil lines back in. (after you make sure they're clean) The tabs are only there for you too be able to remove them. The seal and locking tabs are still there. Just push them back on till they click.

But always check they don't leak when you start the car of course.

Edit: No don't cut the line and use hose clamps. They are not designed for that!

[irubix]

Defs get the tool, takes a second with the tool and you dont break stuff. It takes a fair bit of force to push them back squarely. If you break the connectors, i'm pretty sure you'd be up for new lines.

Im not even sure where the Transfer Case temp sensor is coming from to be honest, all i know is that it always tracks 15 deg out from the gearbox temp. I cant see anything relating to the transfer having a temp sensor.

Whatever the case, I validated the transfer case was the correct temp as per the pan temperature, which is where the temp sensor for the gearbox is. My thought was, if it is always 15 deg offset, then i can use that. One thing i didnt do is check the line temp before and after cooler, which is a good idea.

[NUTTTR]

Got the tools on order!

It's a bit of a problem because it seems like the temp sensor in the gearbox is measuring the case temperature of the gearbox... The pan is about 10deg cooler than the oil temp (after idling for 5 mins), and the case temp of the gearbox higher up almost matches the sensor.

Not much I can do despite hope that it doesn't trigger the over temp warning.

[NUTTTR]

So....

Thanks for the help! Finally got around to doing this job...

New gearbox cooler, enough oil (1L container, but only needs about 100mls) to fill the new cooler to the same level as the old one once removed, thermostat plus the disconnect tool to disconnect the lines and a new cooling manifold to hose adaptor.

The new cooler flowed brilliantly using a hose, the old one was just a trickle! The thermostat was also mostly blocked, where you can see the thin silver pin was just a huge lump of build up... So that was also blocked.

Thanks to the suggestion of using the BMW removal tool for the gearbox pipes because they came off so easily with zero broken plastic... Very happy!

There was definitely a bit of buildup on the slow side of the radiator, given how slow it was pouring out, I suspect it's about 20-30s for 250mls...(at a guess) Which means I should also probably replace it too, but it'll do for now. Yet to extensively road test, but it's filled with tap water for now (Sydney has pretty soft water) and will put coolant concentrate in once I'm sure there are no leaks, etc...

The gearbox fluid is quite dark, but I know the torque converter is going, so a little fresh oil won't hurt it... And I didn't do the levels exactly, just filled up the cooler to almost the top and connected it quickly.... Should be approx right!

[irubix]

Glad to hear you got it sorted (mostly).

I've just received my final order from FCPEuro with a new radiator and full set of Arnott's suspension.

Looking forward to getting this stuff ticked off (also just converted to thermo fans so I'll see how that compares).

[NUTTTR]

Nice. I'm not sure I need a radiator yet, will give it a proper run...it's a Behr all metal unit from 2008.... So may be clogged.

[NUTTTR]

So... 38 degrees here today!

New radiator on order now... From FCPEuro. Probably should have just grabbed one when i did the last order, but the shipping wasn't much different so i didn't bother...

But after today - it's definitely still getting hot in the transmission, but took longer than before and did go down when moving, etc... So i assume just the low flow circuit is blocked enough, despite flowing "ok"... ok isn't good enough.

Good news is Behr radiator is only $200 USD incl shipping (they have $10 off at the moment) so an absolute bargain... Somehow significantly cheaper than anywhere else...

Next up is the expansion tank, turns out mine is original, so not sure i'm going to trust that much longer - what's the cheapest people have seen them for?

I'm looking at this one as a great solution as it's an "OE" manufacturer... and for that money, can't complain: BMW Coolant Expansion Tank for E53 X5 4.4i and 4.6is | Clickable Automotive (https://clickableautomotive.com.au/bmw-e53-x5-v8-coolant-expansion-tank-17137501959.html)
[Edit - scratch that...unless someone else can validate it - this is a Behr "Service" item which is allegedly lower quality... Maybe just go genuine from British auto parts??]

ANNND of course, today I had a new problem... "engine failsafe" while at a stop sign... and it died. Restarted straight away and behaved... scanned for codes and... Nothing. No codes at all... sigh :) [edit 2 - I think this may be caused by a failed camshaft position sensor... Got one ordered...let's see if it clears the code]

[irubix]

Sounds like you've got your hands full!

Clickable are an awesome company i used them exclusively for my 330ci. Shout out to FCPEuro for their lifetime international warranty too.

I would make 100000% sure it will fit before purchasing if getting that one, i cant comment there.

Trans anxiety is real with these rigs! haha

[NUTTTR]

Sounds like you've got your hands full!

Clickable are an awesome company i used them exclusively for my 330ci. Shout out to FCPEuro for their lifetime international warranty too.

I would make 100000% sure it will fit before purchasing if getting that one, i cant comment there.

Trans anxiety is real with these rigs! haha

Yeah, FCPEuro only have Rein expansion tank and, to be honest, I don't trust it. Too many people have had failures of the non genuine!

Mostly it's lots of little maintenance things that could be solved in a single go... But I've peacemealed it. Luckily like working on cars (just done the outer rear suspension bushings too)... It is running really well now, just need the cam sensor and radiator to arrive!

There is definitely something special about them, I really enjoy driving it!

I should add, I'm about to start taking it properly off-road... And I'll have the family in tow so I want it to work!

[irubix]

Yeah same here. The missus has no time for breakdowns (we had two in fast succession when we first bought it).

The fear is REAL with that one!

They're awesome off road, goes anywhere.

[NUTTTR]

Now I can round this out!

New Hella expansion tank from clickable... No leaks!

New radiator put in today... Had the fan removal tool already (not sure what you do without it!!), It was one of the easiest jobs so far (touch wood) because everything came apart easy and everything went back together without a fight... It makes me worried.

But first cycle of heating it up, no leaks (touch wood)... Will check levels tomorrow and see how it is.

In other news the old one is borked. The low flow outlet is almost entirely blocked. While spraying a hose in it to see if it is clearable... The core started leaking from the sides of the low flow circuit, so that was a ticking bomb just waiting to leave me stranded.

FCPEuro has the radiator for 180 US + 30 US postage... Unbelievably cheap and honestly, a 1hr job if you have ever pulled the hoses off before (sometimes the first time they are a pain to remove).

Maybe this should just be a "what I did to my car today" thread, because I also ordered a fuel pump and a new ignition switch (just the back switch piece)... I'll replace both preemptively!

I've also just finished a full android 10.25" widescreen install and it's fantastic. Only running the cables to the rear and camera, etc install to go!

[irubix]

Awesome mate!

My radiator arrived from FCP with a bent neck last week. They are replacing free of charge just waiting for the shipping details.

I already had the radiator out so i flushed it and cleaned the 1 billion bugs and 400kg of the glasshouse mountains dirt and reinstalled. Took her out to the sand and temps were nice and low, maybe the radiator is okay haha.

What year is yours? The Android headunit replacement ive been looking at for a while but have an ipad holder in there, i have an 05 so have the MOST fibre system so i need to bits and pieces to support the fibre loop.

Care to share some piccies of the headunit with some details?

[NUTTTR]

Awesome mate!

My radiator arrived from FCP with a bent neck last week. They are replacing free of charge just waiting for the shipping details.

I already had the radiator out so i flushed it and cleaned the 1 billion bugs and 400kg of the glasshouse mountains dirt and reinstalled. Took her out to the sand and temps were nice and low, maybe the radiator is okay haha.

What year is yours? The Android headunit replacement ive been looking at for a while but have an ipad holder in there, i have an 05 so have the MOST fibre system so i need to bits and pieces to support the fibre loop.

Care to share some piccies of the headunit with some details?

Ironically mine arrived with a bent drain standoff...but as it wasn't cracked, etc I just used it. I made sure they knew first, but it's a terrible way of packing something for international travel! I was surprised at the amount of dirt that fell out when I pulled the radiator out, it didn't look anything like that from the front... But when I ran water through it there's almost nothing coming through the low flow section. Clearly didn't test it right!

Mines a 2003, so no MOST, etc to worry about. I'll have to get a photo of it, it looks pretty much the same as Cam's one... Except that nothing is reassembled yet, so I'll do that then get some photos :)

[NUTTTR]

Awesome mate!

What year is yours? The Android headunit replacement ive been looking at for a while but have an ipad holder in there, i have an 05 so have the MOST fibre system so i need to bits and pieces to support the fibre loop.

Care to share some piccies of the headunit with some details?

This is what I've done... Dash since removed again because I'm putting fabric tape on any surface that can move or squeek...

I got the headunit plus accessories from AliExpress... Owtosin is the guy, seems quite helpful and willing to help sort out understanding and issues, etc... Which is nice.

Managed to source the cigarette lighter bit from Amazon... Was $20 US?? It has RCA for sound and video from 3.5mm socket.

Got a Resler adaptor and the iBus app... Where the CD changer was wired, it has kbus and power for the Resler adaptor and the changer also had low level twisted pair, so I soldered some RCAs onto that and used the wiring to the boot... I rewired a bit in the boot (put old cd changer low level twisted pair directly to the DSP itself...)

It'll be different wiring for you with MOST I assume, but this was fairly plug and play, I also put DAB in and put the device where the stacker used to be with spare USB sockets just in case.

Wrapped all harnesses in cloth tape (cheap as on eBay) and it's very satisfying.

Now I need to run:

Antenna cable to the boot
RCA for reversing camera to the boot
Cable for stock GPS antenna to the boot (as I want to use the stock antenna as apparently it's good!)

I'm hoping I can use packing strips to lead the wires through the interior without pulling seat, etc... But if I need to, I will.

166754166755166756

Last issue I have now...

Random right front wheel abs sensor issues going open circuit... It might be the ABS module, but it has been rebuilt before apparently (receipts!)...and I've since switched for a new eurospare sensor...and it's still doing it, sigh. Next is to swap left/right ones and see what happens... annoying!

[rar110]

Channeling cable/wiring from driver side to boot is pretty easy in L322.

From memory pull the door seal away near the bonnet release. Pull the bonnet release leaver, hold, and the A pillar kick panel should come away. The cavity underneath carries through to door sills.

The driver side door sill clips off fairly easily to reveal a cavity for oem wiring loom going from front to back. Rear driver side door sill clips off the same. The wiring continues up to driver side boot area. If you need to reach to passenger side, there is a sill cavity under cargo door sill area.

[rar110]

Just had another look, seem like you don’t need to remove door seal to remove a pillar kick panel.

[NUTTTR]

Channeling cable/wiring from driver side to boot is pretty easy in L322.

From memory pull the door seal away near the bonnet release. Pull the bonnet release leaver, hold, and the A pillar kick panel should come away. The cavity underneath carries through to door sills.

The driver side door sill clips off fairly easily to reveal a cavity for oem wiring loom going from front to back. Rear driver side door sill clips off the same. The wiring continues up to driver side boot area. If you need to reach to passenger side, there is a sill cavity under cargo door sill area.

Ta, the plates come off easily, but on the passenger side at least the plastic over the channel is screwed down in lots of places... I'll have to pull it apart and see how far i get!

[rar110]

Mine is MY08 so may be slightly different.

[NUTTTR]

With sill plates off I managed to run it through using a packing strap...it's tight but there's a lot of foam under the floor... It actually runs under the passenger seat from about 3/4 along the rail, you can go "around" the standoff for the rear bolt on the seat... Then push it under the foam once you've pulled it out the back sill area. Managed to get the side panel lifted mostly off from the bottom (I assume someone has been in there before!) With enough room to work and lead through past the sub...

Now have to finish the rest of it!

[NUTTTR]

All wired and working now!

Ran it for about 1.5hrs today of varying driving and although it's cold today (24 deg), the temp of car and gearbox was perfect. Gearbox got to 103 driving out of Galston Gorge and quickly went back to a stable 100.

Engine was ~90 deg (I think thermostat may be stuck open or something) and the radiator outlet temp was ~66 deg even at the highest load, so it's working really well.

Reversing camera in and mounted under the rear bumper and it's a good location, not perfect, but good. It was driving really nice today too, no bongs from the silly right front wheel abs sensor either.

Snatch strap kit arrived today so I'm ready for some off-road!

Next "maintenance" items:
Got a fuel pump (genuine bosch)
Ignition switch (genuine).

Both were a good price and rather than being stranded one day, I'll preemptively replace them, maybe these holidays.

[NUTTTR]

Because I like talking to myself (less arguments that way), I've run it up to Ourimbah (same run it got very hot in last time) after general Sydney driving... Did about 30mins on the rougher fire roads and went up the "training area" in the forest the "easy" way... Next time I'll try the ruts :).

This time, gearbox stayed at 100 the entire time except for one time it got to 103 (which was slow running up a long steep hill)... So I'm very happy now.

But....

Now I've noticed my occasional under floor vibration has definitely gotten worse and is occuring a lot more. I think I'll look to get a go pro under the car and see if I can check what is vibrating... (I bet it's the tailshaft uni... Local place said they can swap the joint for about 275 if I bring in the half shaft...)

[NUTTTR]

Drove across the whole of Sydney today and no overheating (didn't check gearbox temp, but coolant maxed at 100deg).

Drove from Hornsby to Lucas Heights and back again (with a couple hours between). Drove the whole way home with AC on, very cold, hottest the car got was sitting at lights with 37 deg ambient where it hit 100 deg (coolant temp).

I haven't got an 88 deg thermostat kit yet but I probably should at some point.

I ended up grabbing another tube of dr Tranny as during the installation of the previous tubes there was a bit of spillage... Now I've got about 2.5 tubes in... (Spilt a little again lol).

The shifting is excellent and always has been, I was trying to cure the TC rumble... 1.5 tubes didn't do much, but the most recent addition seems to have almost cured it for now. After the past 150km or so it seems to have gotten very quiet.

Of course, like the engine (bmw v8) the gearbox has a nice drip at the front and the rear, so eventually have to come out for a new TC, rebuild, etc. But maybe that's 6mths or more away now (depending on how much it stops, I guess, there's no easy way to check the levels as nothing around my house is flat!)

I still have the fuel pump (preventive!) and ignition switch (was having the odd issue when starting where it would go a split second and sounded like the starter motor couldn't overcome the compression) to install.

I literally just did the bonnet cable as it nearly snapped on me, but it does sound like the cables in the door handle are going too, so I'll grab some of those before I end up locked out... It's almost there!