Changing a Wheel - Disco 4

[Darron]

Yesterday I had my first flat tyre on the rear of my Discovery 4. Being new to LR, I looked at the owners manual to make sure I followed the right procedure and use the correct jacking points, but things still didn't go to plan...

As I jacked the car, everything lifted up except the wheel - due to the suspension. I quickly jumped on line and found a whole load of advice, including changing the access height and leaving the drivers door open etc... In the end, a helpful passer-by who was also a LR owner came to help and put a trolly jack under the car (it looked like it was delicately balanced on the rear suspension arm) and we were away.

Does anyone have advice on how this should have been done? This didn't look right, and pretty dangerous..

Second to this, I decided to keep my former 'spare' wheel on the car and put my old wheel with a new tyre as the spare. Getting it back onto the dangling down wire under the car was a nightmare and the tyre was pretty heavy to lift to the height where the cable could attach. Looking on-line, it seems some of the spare wheels are narrower than the full size and I'm wondering if again there is something I'm doing wrong or that I should know...?

Thanks in Advance. Darron

[scarry]

Welcome to the fun of owning a D4.

Have a search on here, there is a better jack,as you found out the OEM one is a heap of rubbish, and dangerous at times.

If you followed the manual, you were doing the right thing, the vehicle does go up high due to the wheel travel.

Putting the tyre on the fitting that dangles from the cable is how you did it, a full size spare will fit no worries, as long as its the OEM size very similar.

There is some sort of trick putting the vehicle in off road height when jacking,but I don't know what it is.

[WhiteD3]

Yep, its a pain in the arse but once you've got it worked out its no drama really, just hard work.

Unwind the spare until you can reach in and unhook the cable.
Off road height
Door left open
Chock the other wheels
If you have to use the OEM jack keep your limbs out from under. Yes it bends and distorts and is scary to look at but it does work. Better still buy a bottle jack (one with the correct reach) like the rest of us have.
Change the wheel
Reverse the above.
Put the spare back ensuring that some tension is kept on the cable until the wheel lifts. Impossible when you are by yourself.
Go home and have a cold beer.....you've earned it.


As for the spare, it should be the same as the other wheels. It can be a tight fit as it lifts up into the heat shields. Non-OEM (ie bigger) tyres make this harder still.


Yesterday I had my first flat tyre on the rear of my Discovery 4. Being new to LR, I looked at the owners manual to make sure I followed the right procedure and use the correct jacking points, but things still didn't go to plan...

As I jacked the car, everything lifted up except the wheel - due to the suspension. I quickly jumped on line and found a whole load of advice, including changing the access height and leaving the drivers door open etc... In the end, a helpful passer-by who was also a LR owner came to help and put a trolly jack under the car (it looked like it was delicately balanced on the rear suspension arm) and we were away.

Does anyone have advice on how this should have been done? This didn't look right, and pretty dangerous..

Second to this, I decided to keep my former 'spare' wheel on the car and put my old wheel with a new tyre as the spare. Getting it back onto the dangling down wire under the car was a nightmare and the tyre was pretty heavy to lift to the height where the cable could attach. Looking on-line, it seems some of the spare wheels are narrower than the full size and I'm wondering if again there is something I'm doing wrong or that I should know...?

Thanks in Advance. Darron

[101RRS]

Get a better jack and jack under the suspension wishbones.

HOWEVER if you just have the standard jack - chock the wheels. Raise the vehicle to offroad height. Put the jack into its spot in the chassis and lower the height and it should go into extended height then put it into super extended (see manual).

Then when you jack there will not be much lifting required to get the wheel off the road - however the car is unstable so extreme care is needed. The standard jack is a killer in my view - oh the manual says to only jack on level ground but how times do you actually stop on level ground - even if you get a flat on the highway.

I use a small high lift floor jack - I use the LR jack to just get the car high enough to get the floor jack under then jack up to full height on the floor jack.

Garry

[Macadamia]

Better still buy a bottle jack (one with the correct reach) like the rest of us have.

what should I be looking for in a bottle jack?

[WhiteD3]

I used one of these...

Toolex | Hydraulic Bottle Jack 12 Tonne 2 Stage Height raised 542mm lowered 232mm (https://www.toolex.com.au/products/535050)

You need to find or make an adaptor to lock the top of the jack into the chassis rail.

166023


Cheers.

[twr7cx]

Strangely LR have a factory bottle jack for the D4 but it's only meant for the coil spring models. Strange that if this is the superior product to use on the air spring models that they didn't include it...

[WhiteD3]

Strangely LR have a factory bottle jack for the D4 but it's only meant for the coil spring models. Strange that if this is the superior product to use on the air spring models that they didn't include it...

My guess is it doesn't have the height for the air sprung models.

[Tombie]

My guess is it doesn't have the height for the air sprung models.

It goes under the arm. Spring or bag makes no difference.

I have been lead to believe it’s a safety aspect.

The Air suspension can alter heights and if jacked under the arm the vehicle does shuffle around.

I still use a jack under the arm, or a block of wood.

[101RRS]

The problem with bottle jacks under the chassis is that very few if any the full range eg those that can get low enough when the tyre is actually flat have trouble lifting a wheel high enough at full height. That is why I use the provided jack to just lift the car so I can get a hi lift floor or bottle jack under the chassis - or preferrably just use it under a wishbone.

[WhiteD3]

The problem with bottle jacks under the chassis is that very few if any the full range eg those that can get low enough when the tyre is actually flat have trouble lifting a wheel high enough at full height. That is why I use the provided jack to just lift the car so I can get a hi lift floor or bottle jack under the chassis - or preferrably just use it under a wishbone.

I do agree with what you've said but that particular jack worked for me. Keep in mind the car is supposed to be in off road height which should alleviate that particular problem most of the time.

I keep a jacking block (a piece of 2" sleeper for use in sand to support the jack) under the rear seat. Once (I think) I had to use the scissor to get some clearance, used the block on its side to hold the car while I replaced the scissor with the bottle jack. Desperate measures... yadda yadda.

BTW the other handy use for the jacking block is to force extended mode by lowering the car (chassis rail) onto the block (held on its side).

[SeanC]

I use a 4 inch block of wood which I drive the flat tyre onto making it high enough to get my bottleneck under the wishbone.

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

I've got a small trolley jack that has it's own plastic case. It fits under the suspension (control arm/airspring point), and then lifts the vehicle enough to change a tyre.
It's rated at 2T (or 2.5T), from memory. I bought it after reading many posts on this forum - it's stable, safe, really easy to use - IMHO better than a bottle jack (and we shouldn't even be talking about the OEM item as a jack - it's terrible!).

I got the jack from my independent mechanic who does all my servicing - he recommended it specifically for the D3/4, due to capacity, overall height, ability to get under the suspension arm and lift height.
Also, I don't change the height of the vehicle to jack it up - although I do pull the fuse on the air suspension whenever i'm jacking the car (or getting underneath it)... I know people say "open the door", but I don't trust it!

In my view, this is the only jack to use!

This post (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/159687-trolley-jack-d4.html)has more info...

Enjoy!

Rob

[StewG]

I have only ever changed a D4 wheel once - to swap two fully-inflated wheels. I followed the manual and used the pristine jack and chocks. All went precisely to plan. I even correctly torqued the wheel nuts after refitting. The only surprise was 1) how easy it was, and 2) how high the vehicle has to be cranked to get a wheel off the ground - it seemed like metres!

[hiker]

After a couple of bad (stressful) experiences, including 1 LR Roadside Assist, I purchased a Kincrome K12158 bottle jack (10 tonne) - I chose this one because it sits comfortably in the cavity behind the middle row.

Last Sunday I had another flat tyre (rear) and followed my prepared plan which worked - I was on my own (and I'm 70 yrs old!)

Please note: this was a FLAT tyre!!

Lower spare to ground with a lot of extra length
Drive forward so that spare centre is just away from rear bumper
Remove cable
Raise car to full height
Place bottle jack under chassis rail - I have used white paint to highlight location of jack positioning holes
Lower car to normal height - chassis now sitting on the jack waiting to be lifted
Loosen nuts
Raise tyre off ground
Change tyre - (so bloody heavy!)
Lower jack to min height
Raise car to max height to remove jack
Lower car to minimum height to replace spare
Attach spare to cable
Reverse car over spare
Raise spare
Tighten wheel nuts
Wrap up and destress!

this is the first time I've had to use my prepared plan and it worked for me - the hardest part and most frustrating was lining up the stud holes and doing up the first nut!

The bottle jack details are

Min height 187mm
Max height 367mm
Lift height 120mm
Screw height 60mm

166178

[DiscoDB]

Well done hiker - good to have a prepared plan of attack.

Having watched the old man change flat tyres on a truck I learnt the secret is to get the hub height right so you don’t need to lift the wheel at all.

Jack it up just enough to be able to move the flat tyre so you can “walk” it off, then increase the height a bit and “walk” the spare tyre on.

[eddy]

One of these guide pins makes it easier to 'walk' on!166184

[Mog60]

One of these guide pins makes it easier to 'walk' on!166184


Thanks for this idea eddy, I think this would help me, as I too struggle with aligning the stud holes when offering up the wheel. Can you please tell me the guide pin diameter and thread etc and if you can get that particular one on line.

Many thanks. Peter

[Ferret]

By chance I had one made yesterday. Certainly makes the job easier. Note, the thread is metric 'fine'.

[DieselLSE]

By chance I had one made yesterday. Certainly makes the job easier. Note, the thread is metric 'fine'.
What a clever idea, Ferret. Thanks for sharing the specs. I've asked my engineering place to price up a couple for me out of mild steel. I figure two would make it so much easier. I'll also ask him about a batch price and perhaps set up a group buy for Melbourne members.

[eddy]

Thanks for this idea eddy, I think this would help me, as I too struggle with aligning the stud holes when offering up the wheel. Can you please tell me the guide pin diameter and thread etc and if you can get that particular one on line.

I bought mine from Richard DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Wheel stud aligner (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/wheel-stud-aligner-189164.html) No doubt cheaper if made locally.

[Ferret]

What a clever idea...

Well credit is due to someone on Disco 3. The above is based off a sketch on that web site but after making and trying one I'd be extending it's length a little. Make that central 30mm section maybe 50mm instead. Will make it a little easier to grab when screwing it off after the wheel has been refitted.

And No you don't want to be using 2 at the same time. When using only one it leaves you free to rotate the wheel around the pin to align with the studs while the pin is taking all the weight of the wheel. Once aligned with the studs you just push it on to the central locating hub, replace and nip up 4 of the wheel nuts. Once that's done all the weight comes off the guide pin and you can then easily unscrew the pin by hand to withdraw it and fit the 5th nut.

[hiker]

if these can be made available in Australia, I'll be among the first to line up!



Thanks for this idea eddy, I think this would help me, as I too struggle with aligning the stud holes when offering up the wheel. Can you please tell me the guide pin diameter and thread etc and if you can get that particular one on line.

I bought mine from Richard DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Wheel stud aligner (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/wheel-stud-aligner-189164.html) No doubt cheaper if made locally.

[Tombie]

I can see what it does. Failing to understand why it’s needed.

[ATH]

I use a shovel under the tyre when refitting as it can be moved around to line the studs up. Had old years ago used to do that with bus tyres until OHS came along and they had to use a powered lifter of some kind to preserve their well being...
but he swore by it and I've found it's good as well. Takes all the weight off trying to lift the wheel into position.
AlanH.

[Tombie]

Lean wheel into position.
Adjust jack to pick up studs whilst moving wheel into position.
Jack vehicle a little more and fit wheel nuts.
Jack handle or tyre lever to adjust position.

Never needed to lift a wheel since I started doing this.

My concern with the extension guide - drop the rim hard enough and worse case it may have enough leverage to do some damage to the stud.

[DiscoMick]

I bought an orange square plastic base for sitting the jockey wheel on our camper on when stopped on soft ground.
It is also a good thing for fitting under a bottle jack if more height is needed to jack the camper or Defender.

[DiscoJeffster]

Lean wheel into position.
Adjust jack to pick up studs whilst moving wheel into position.
Jack vehicle a little more and fit wheel nuts.
Jack handle or tyre lever to adjust position.

Never needed to lift a wheel since I started doing this.

My concern with the extension guide - drop the rim hard enough and worse case it may have enough leverage to do some damage to the stud.

I don’t even understand the jack thing. Just lift the car with one arm and fit the wheel with the spare arm? I mean, doesn’t everyone press a few tonne before breakfast?

[Tombie]

I don’t even understand the jack thing. Just lift the car with one arm and fit the wheel with the spare arm? I mean, doesn’t everyone press a few tonne before breakfast?

I’d have to use my legs... [emoji41]
My leg press sessions are sets of 10 reps running around 350-400kg per rep.

My bench isn’t so good at the moment at around 125kg.
And my dead lift is only around 200kg.

[emoji1787]

[hiker]

Hi Tombie

Have a look at this and let us know what you think ... Atlantic British Presents: Using A Wheel Mounting Alignment Tool on Land Rovers and Range Rovers - YouTube (https://youtu.be/JksdZ0YMkoQ)

It would be a new direction for me, but as I get older I'm always looking at ways to make this job easier!

cheers!




Lean wheel into position.
Adjust jack to pick up studs whilst moving wheel into position.
Jack vehicle a little more and fit wheel nuts.
Jack handle or tyre lever to adjust position.

Never needed to lift a wheel since I started doing this.

My concern with the extension guide - drop the rim hard enough and worse case it may have enough leverage to do some damage to the stud.

[101RRS]

I am not sure what the issue is - I am 66 and a porker and I changed my rear wheel on Wednesday no issue - I just put the wheel onto one of the wheel studs and push the the wheel in until the centre of the wheel is on the lip of the hub - just keep the wheel pushed in as it is now centred and turn until a stud in in the center of a hole and put a wheel nut on - easy peasy.

[Tombie]

Hi Tombie

Have a look at this and let us know what you think ... Atlantic British Presents: Using A Wheel Mounting Alignment Tool on Land Rovers and Range Rovers - YouTube (https://youtu.be/JksdZ0YMkoQ)

It would be a new direction for me, but as I get older I'm always looking at ways to make this job easier!

cheers!

Just watched the vid and laughed.

In the first 30 seconds he physically lifts the entire wheel twice!

Doing it the way I do, I never lift the wheel from the ground manually.


We do however all need to take our physical circumstances into account, and if there are issues manage them accordingly.

[PerthDisco]

I don’t even understand the jack thing. Just lift the car with one arm and fit the wheel with the spare arm? I mean, doesn’t everyone press a few tonne before breakfast?

You think the Disco is hard try a VW Tiguan with no studs on the hub. That’s a rubics cube to get started even with half the weight.

[DiscoDB]

Just watched the vid and laughed.

In the first 30 seconds he physically lifts the entire wheel twice!

Doing it the way I do, I never lift the wheel from the ground manually.


We do however all need to take our physical circumstances into account, and if there are issues manage them accordingly.

I noticed the same - and then getting the tool off took longer than fitting the wheel.

I do like the idea of the tool, but will give Tombies method a go next time. Sounds like an improvement over lining up the hub so you walk the tyre on.

Anyone who has done a back injury doing simple tasks knows the importance of minimising the risk. As we get older it seems wheels are getting heavier.

[PerthDisco]

I do have one question on this subject that’s puzzled me for ever.

When undoing wheel nuts I use the quite handy LR tool because it fits the nuts easily.

When I try a socket it’s too tight often getting stuck on the silly LR nuts. Makes using a breaker bar hard.

I use 12 point sockets so maybe a 6 point would be better?

[DiscoJeffster]

I do have one question on this subject that’s puzzled me for ever.

When undoing wheel nuts I use the quite handy LR tool because it fits the nuts easily.

When I try a socket it’s too tight often getting stuck on the silly LR nuts. Makes using a breaker bar hard.

I use 12 point sockets so maybe a 6 point would be better?

Always try and use six point sockets on anything high torque as a rule.

[ATH]

I really do find using a shovel to waggle the wheel around which is just off the ground makes it so easy to refit the wheel. Luckily I haven't had to do it often but certainly takes the strain out of doing it.
AlanH.

[Turtle60]

I do have one question on this subject that’s puzzled me for ever.

When undoing wheel nuts I use the quite handy LR tool because it fits the nuts easily.

When I try a socket it’s too tight often getting stuck on the silly LR nuts. Makes using a breaker bar hard.

I use 12 point sockets so maybe a 6 point would be better?

Bunnings sell a king chrome 22m 6 point plastic coated deep impact socket. $20, perfect.

[hiker]

Fortunately the situation doesn't occur very often! I've made a note to try Tombies method as I don't always carry a shovel as part of my emergency kit.
Have now replaced all tyres with Pirelli Scorpions so hoping for a better run!

[hiker]

Thanks DiscoDB - would love to try it but with my new Pirelli Scorpions, I'm hoping it may be a long time!

Cheers!






Well done hiker - good to have a prepared plan of attack.

Having watched the old man change flat tyres on a truck I learnt the secret is to get the hub height right so you don’t need to lift the wheel at all.

Jack it up just enough to be able to move the flat tyre so you can “walk” it off, then increase the height a bit and “walk” the spare tyre on.

[Tombie]

Thanks DiscoDB - would love to try it but with my new Pirelli Scorpions, I'm hoping it may be a long time!

Cheers!

Never hurts to do a practice run at home so you know!

[Fatso]

I've got a small trolley jack that has it's own plastic case. It fits under the suspension (control arm/airspring point), and then lifts the vehicle enough to change a tyre.
It's rated at 2T (or 2.5T), from memory. I bought it after reading many posts on this forum - it's stable, safe, really easy to use - IMHO better than a bottle jack (and we shouldn't even be talking about the OEM item as a jack - it's terrible!).

I got the jack from my independent mechanic who does all my servicing - he recommended it specifically for the D3/4, due to capacity, overall height, ability to get under the suspension arm and lift height.
Also, I don't change the height of the vehicle to jack it up - although I do pull the fuse on the air suspension whenever i'm jacking the car (or getting underneath it)... I know people say "open the door", but I don't trust it!

In my view, this is the only jack to use!

This post (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/159687-trolley-jack-d4.html)has more info...

Enjoy!

Rob

What brand is is your Trolley jack , and any idea which outlet might stock it . Ta

[Tombie]

You guys do realise by lifting the vehicle to offroad height first - this is designed to remove some of the instability in the vehicle - it’s a safety measure.

Leaving the vehicle lower and lifting a corner increases instability and side loading, increasing odds of a problem.

It’s a button press - wtf wouldn’t you do it!

[ramblingboy42]

Thanks DiscoDB - would love to try it but with my new Pirelli Scorpions, I'm hoping it may be a long time!

Cheers!

don't you think Pirelli scorpions subject to getting punctures and blowouts in the bush?

I know a lot of people on cattle stations in central Australia and they don't use Pirellis.

[Fatso]

You guys do realise by lifting the vehicle to offroad height first - this is designed to remove some of the instability in the vehicle - it’s a safety measure.

Leaving the vehicle lower and lifting a corner increases instability and side loading, increasing odds of a problem.

It’s a button press - wtf wouldn’t you do it!

Really , you do realise there is more than one way to skin a cat . !!! . [wink11]

[Tombie]

Really , you do realise there is more than one way to skin a cat . !!! . [wink11]

One resulted in a clean cut skin.
The other can result in a messed up pelt and hacked carcass....

The more apt quote would be “Do you want it done right and safe or do you want to take short cuts?”

[hiker]

Thanks for that - if a cattle station in Central Australia is ever on our itinerary, I'll certainly look at different rubber. Cruising the bitumen on the East Coast, with the occasional dirt road should be a breeze for the Pirellis - anything is better that the stock standard GY Wranglers which came with the new vehicle.

Cheers




don't you think Pirelli scorpions subject to getting punctures and blowouts in the bush?

I know a lot of people on cattle stations in central Australia and they don't use Pirellis.

[hiker]

thanks Tombie - will have a go with the new tyres - try out my new inflator!


Never hurts to do a practice run at home so you know!

[ramblingboy42]

Thanks for that - if a cattle station in Central Australia is ever on our itinerary, I'll certainly look at different rubber. Cruising the bitumen on the East Coast, with the occasional dirt road should be a breeze for the Pirellis - anything is better that the stock standard GY Wranglers which came with the new vehicle.

Cheers

mmm ok, can't understand why they put **** tyres on an offroad vehicle.....I mean they KNOW it's going offroad in most cases.....Ford did it to me with my Ranger....poxy tyres are still in my shed 5yrs later. The tyres fitted were not even good on road ffs.

I know some people getting good results from the Pirellis on road.

[loanrangie]

You guys do realise by lifting the vehicle to offroad height first - this is designed to remove some of the instability in the vehicle - it’s a safety measure.

Leaving the vehicle lower and lifting a corner increases instability and side loading, increasing odds of a problem.

It’s a button press - wtf wouldn’t you do it!

How does raising the COG increase stability and vice versa ?

[Tombie]

How does raising the COG increase stability and vice versa ?

Balance point.

The 3 other wheel positions are sitting higher keeping the body closer to its centre point of balance.

If you lift from a lower position the other bags (same side other end and opposing corner in particular) contain less volume and as you lift the vehicle these corners can easily destabilise / rock / compress.

Keeping the suspension at full height reduces this.

[LRD414]

You guys do realise by lifting the vehicle to offroad height first - this is designed to remove some of the instability in the vehicle - it’s a safety measure.

Leaving the vehicle lower and lifting a corner increases instability and side loading, increasing odds of a problem.
Agreed re stability. Plus it requires less jacking because the suspension is already closer to full extension, which you have to reach before the wheel leaves the ground.

[Fatso]

One resulted in a clean cut skin.
The other can result in a messed up pelt and hacked carcass....

The more apt quote would be “Do you want it done right and safe or do you want to take short cuts?”

Dont need a rod to reel you in hey , where in this thread have i mentioned anything about jacking up a Disco or RRS , i actually dont have a problem in this regard its not rocket science . What i was interested was the small trolley jack mentioned in a post and in you jumped pertaining that we needed lessons in the Universe and everything . :eek2:

[Tombie]

Dont need a rod to reel you in hey , where in this thread have i mentioned anything about jacking up a Disco or RRS , i actually dont have a problem in this regard its not rocket science . What i was interested was the small trolley jack mentioned in a post and in you jumped pertaining that we needed lessons in the Universe and everything . :eek2:

If the shoe fits mate, lace that bugger up and wear it.

I wasn’t responding to your post when I commented on lift before commencing using the jack (didn’t quote you) - I was posting based on previous posts where people commented “I don’t bother lifting the vehicle first”.

[emoji867]

[DieselLSE]

What a clever idea, Ferret. Thanks for sharing the specs. I've asked my engineering place to price up a couple for me out of mild steel. I figure two would make it so much easier. I'll also ask him about a batch price and perhaps set up a group buy for Melbourne members.

This is what I have come up with. As per Ferret's specs except that the diameter is 22.2mm instead of 22.4 and I've increased the length by 20mm. Also the production version will have an 8mm hole a few mm in from the taper to make removal easier by simply inserting a screwdriver or similar if needed. After all, your hands will probably be a bit greasy making gripping the tube a bit difficult.
I'll put up a post in the group buy section. Pricing not confirmed but will be as near as dammit to $20ea pickup from Brighton, Victoria or $32 posted anywhere in Australia. No real need to order more than one unless you regularly do wheel changes for 4WD'ing, then I suppose having two or even four would be handy (this is what I intend doing).
For those who argue you don't really need the tool as you can manipulate the wheel height with the jack: you are, of course, quite correct particularly when changing a single wheel. But if you are rotating your wheels or swapping to an off-road set it's a lot easier to jack up either the whole car or one end or side at a time. This makes adjusting any particular axle height a bit problematic.

Edit: Group Buy setup here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/group-buy/282473-d3-4-wheel-guide.html#post3046284

[Birdboy]

don't you think Pirelli scorpions subject to getting punctures and blowouts in the bush?

I know a lot of people on cattle stations in central Australia and they don't use Pirellis.

I bet they don't drive Discoverys either ;)

[PerthDisco]

Bunnings sell a king chrome 22m 6 point plastic coated deep impact socket. $20, perfect.

Tried the Sidchrome 6 point version non impact and it’s tight like the 12 point like the nuts are 22.5mm with their silly tin covers.

My Bunnings didn’t have the Kingchrome impact option in individual sizes.

[Tombie]

You mean like a 7/8s [emoji41] it’s 22.22mm

[DiscoDB]

Tried the Sidchrome 6 point version non impact and it’s tight like the 12 point like the nuts are 22.5mm with their silly tin covers.

That’s the problem with the covers - they start to swell and end up 0.5mm over size - especially a problem if a garage has used an impact gun to remove.

You can also get 22.5mm 6 point impact sockets out of the US to remove damaged wheel nuts.

[ATH]

My wheel nuts on our last Defender (2010 Puma) didn't just swell, they were destroyed by a yob tyre "fitter" at the place I used to go to. Couldn't be bothered letting the gun stop before trying to get it on and totally trashed about a dozen nuts.
I always specifically state "no gun" and it was on the worksheet but he couldn't be bothered. It was only an "****** Land Rover" apparently...... he got the sack and they replaced the nuts. But if they can't supervise some of the idiots they employ that's their problem and they lost a customer.
Never had any trouble fitting a socket on the nuts of any vehicle if they're in good condition with no gun damage. I use an impact socket manually on the D4..... and I've forgotten what size it is! :)
AlanH.

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

What brand is is your Trolley jack , and any idea which outlet might stock it . Ta


Hi, apologies for not seeing this earlier! Not sure of the brand, there's not distinguishing marks. I've put a couple of photos of the jack for info.

Regarding outlets, again i'm not very helpful - I got it from my mechanic (indie), and he'd ordered them in...

Rob

166581 166582

[Fatso]

Hi, apologies for not seeing this earlier! Not sure of the brand, there's not distinguishing marks. I've put a couple of photos of the jack for info.

Regarding outlets, again i'm not very helpful - I got it from my mechanic (indie), and he'd ordered them in...

Rob

166581 166582

Thanks for that , should be able to sort it out now i know what it looks like . Al

[Tombie]

$122.00 + freight from Malaysia [emoji41]

Not sure of the going rate in AU

[DieselLSE]

As there was so much demand for the Wheel Guides, I had a batch made up. Head over to https://www.aulro.com/afvb/wheels-tyres-suspension-for-sale/283054-wheel-guides-suit-p38-d2-d3-4-d5-l322-l405-rrs.html#post3052614 if interested.

[rapserv]

What a clever idea, Ferret. Thanks for sharing the specs. I've asked my engineering place to price up a couple for me out of mild steel. I figure two would make it so much easier. I'll also ask him about a batch price and perhaps set up a group buy for Melbourne members.

Sounds like a plan .. I'm in.[bigsmile1]

[DieselLSE]

Sounds like a plan .. I'm in.[bigsmile1]
Wasn't allowed to sell them on here unless I set up a dealer subscription which somewhat defeated the purpose. They're available on eBay from me at Wheel Change Guide to suit all late model Landrover and Range Rover | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154449934973) or from other suppliers, too.

[rapserv]

After a couple of bad (stressful) experiences, including 1 LR Roadside Assist, I purchased a Kincrome K12158 bottle jack (10 tonne) - I chose this one because it sits comfortably in the cavity behind the middle row.

Last Sunday I had another flat tyre (rear) and followed my prepared plan which worked - I was on my own (and I'm 70 yrs old!)

Please note: this was a FLAT tyre!!

Lower spare to ground with a lot of extra length
Drive forward so that spare centre is just away from rear bumper
Remove cable
Raise car to full height
Place bottle jack under chassis rail - I have used white paint to highlight location of jack positioning holes
Lower car to normal height - chassis now sitting on the jack waiting to be lifted
Loosen nuts
Raise tyre off ground
Change tyre - (so bloody heavy!)
Lower jack to min height
Raise car to max height to remove jack
Lower car to minimum height to replace spare
Attach spare to cable
Reverse car over spare
Raise spare
Tighten wheel nuts
Wrap up and destress!

this is the first time I've had to use my prepared plan and it worked for me - the hardest part and most frustrating was lining up the stud holes and doing up the first nut!

The bottle jack details are

Min height 187mm
Max height 367mm
Lift height 120mm
Screw height 60mm

166178

"Place bottle jack under chassis rail - I have used white paint to highlight location of jack positioning holes
Lower car to normal height - chassis now sitting on the jack waiting to be lifted"

Did you pull the compressor fuse before letting the car down?
If I extend to 'offroad' height and put a jack or stand under the body rail and let it down .. it will hit the stand and raise even higher .. to extended height.

Personally, I raise the vehicle to offroad height, place a jack stand under the body rail (just in case) and then jack up from under the air strut on the wishbone.

[Macadamia]

I'm not quite sure what the point of lowering the car to normal/access height onto the jack (on the chassis) is because it doesn't 'lock' the suspension/articulation at the given height. you just have to jack it further to off road/extended height and beyond anyway. The only reason to lower the car into the jack is if you're doing it on the LCAs and trying to utilise the trick method of the car raising the wheel for you when it levels (described elsewhere. not an approved jacking location nor an approved method but it does work).

[hiker]

I have used this only once, as a result of a couple of frustrating experiences - maybe I was lucky or just keen to change and go!
I have since changed to Pirelli Scorpions and had no chance to try it again - but have added the note to remove fuses #3 & #26 next time - hopefully will have someone with me also!
Tried the LCA method in the driveway with normal tyres, but realised that I was lying flat on the ground, positioning the jack - not always possible depending on location and attire!
Also bought 2 wheel stud locators based on the Aulro listing - ready to go!!


Always happy to learn new tricks!

[PhilipA]

The wheel locaters are ace on my D2. I bought 2.
I had a nail last week and it makes it so much easier to replace the wheel.
Regards PhilipA

[ytt105]

Just a comment on the wheel placement helping studs.
I use a piece of 19mm curtain rod that sits over the wheel stud and through the wheel hole. Works well and is cheap to replace when I lose it.

Regards
Trevor

[ATH]

I used a couple of short bits of plastic conduit to line the spare up to refit it to the RWC when lifted by my homemade winch. Worked OK and will try the same thing when I get a puncture and need to change the wheel.
Anything to make those jobs easier is good even if you spend a few bucks especially if yer getting old and aged.......
AlanH.

[BMKal]

Wasn't allowed to sell them on here unless I set up a dealer subscription which somewhat defeated the purpose. They're available on eBay from me at Wheel Change Guide to suit all late model Landrover and Range Rover | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154449934973) or from other suppliers, too.

Hadn't seen these before. Bloody brilliant idea. Just ordered one on your eBay store. [thumbsupbig]

[Discodicky]

Hadn't seen these before. Bloody brilliant idea. Just ordered one on your eBay store. [thumbsupbig]

I ordered one just over a week ago and it arrived Friday. Nice piece of kit and will definitely help my weak back!