Lockers...

[Landy Red]

Interested to hear people's thoughts, experiences, advice etc.

I have a 1995, 110 Defender, 300tdi wagon; in very good shape (mechanicaly and structurally.) It's my family's weekend getaway machine. It goes on 255s on wolfs, 2inch springs and long travel shocks (with relocation cones, spring retainers etc.) It does very well as is. Has a winch (for emergencies really.. I don't trust it = cheapy but has saved me numerous times.) I have good recovery points front and rear and usually travel with other 4wds.

I live one the west coast of Tasmania, and driving here can be demanding. For the most part my current set up works. But, taking things a step further, I have been putting pennies away (or rather, investing in penny stocks on the ASX hehe) Time is here to upgrade.

Anyway, considering options, I am looking at Detroit locker in the rear and truetrack in the front...

Thoughts? Experiences? Options?

[Landy Red]

This is the car btwhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201110/2b2091e33b52795f078d606f638203bf.jpg

[Red90]

Anyway, considering options, I am looking at Detroit locker in the rear and truetrac in the front...

Do the Detroit rear first with heavy duty aftermarket half shafts.

You probably do not need the front. It only adds a bit more and if you are here asking, you probably are not doing things that need that extra bit. Doing the front also really requires aftermarket CV joints and halfshafts, so it gets quite expensive.

[W&KO]

I’ve never driven a defer Detroit but have followed a few and they seem to do alright.

I have an ARB on order for my current defer, had F&R in my 95 defer amd they were faultless.

[Landy Red]

Thanks for the input. Funny the advice you get re the half shafts. Some in here seem adamant about the need for uprated heavy duty ones yet others reckon it's not needed in sals.

[rick130]

Thanks for the input. Funny the advice you get re the half shafts. Some in here seem adamant about the need for uprated heavy duty ones yet others reckon it's not needed in sals.The genuine Sals axles are a pretty soft grade of cheddar.
Are you running greased or oil lubed hubs?
Slip a drive flange off and check the splines of both the drive flange and axle, if greased they'll generally they'll be suffering from fretting corrosion
I'd be going with Maxi Drive axles personally.

[Landy Red]

Running greased and with uprated flanges. Half shafts are newish so not much ware at all. I am thinking that with the increased ability of Detroit could actually decrease likihood of snapping axles as it will more easily crawl up and over... and I could have 3 sets of spares for the price.. and afford the truetrack in the front.

[Landy Red]

Do the Detroit rear first with heavy duty aftermarket half shafts.

You probably do not need the front. It only adds a bit more and if you are here asking, you probably are not doing things that need that extra bit. Doing the front also really requires aftermarket CV joints and halfshafts, so it gets quite expensive.Bud, there is plenty more I can do in future with added capability. So of course I am going to see how others here have gone?

[Phil B]

IMO you are incorrect. I believe the stress on the axles is increased with a locker that is locked over obstacles
If your diff is unlocked all the power in that diff is transferred to the wheel with the least load. Say you have your diff locked and one wheel on the air ALL the power on that diff is transferred to the wheel on the ground whereas unlocked almost zero power is transferred to that drive wheel.
IMO stronger axles are a must when installing lockers

[Landy Red]

In my experience I snapped half shaft only once, when the wheel lost traction momentarily, going up steep climb, around corner in a rutt; wheel spinning due to open diff and loss of traction, then as it came down down and grabbed it snapped. I just wonder if this would have happened with locked diff? - I would have probably never lost the traction in the first place...
IMO you are incorrect. I believe the stress on the axles is increased with a locker that is locked over obstacles
If your diff is unlocked all the power in that diff is transferred to the wheel with the least load. Say you have your diff locked and one wheel on the air ALL the power on that diff is transferred to the wheel on the ground whereas unlocked almost zero power is transferred to that drive wheel.
IMO stronger axles are a must when installing lockers

[Phil B]

Ensuring traction on both wheels Is the point of lockers. The axle may have been ok, who knows for sure.
My opinion is that lockers and HD axles go together but that’s just me.
I have installed HD axles and flanges as they are a known weak point on the Perentie

[Landy Red]

Probably wouldn't have snapped with HD axle either..?! I think it's sensible too.. but gee they are not cheap!
Ensuring traction on both wheels Is the point of lockers. The axle may have been ok, who knows for sure.
My opinion is that lockers and HD axles go together but that’s just me.
I have installed HD axles and flanges as they are a known weak point on the Perentie

[DiscoMick]

We had a Detroit locker in the rear of our D1 300Tdi and it was a good thing.
Standard axles and flanges never broke, even in The Simpson.
The main danger is if a wheel is spinning and suddenly grips, transferring the load to the axle, so sympathetic driving helps.

I never bothered doing anything to the front, as it was unnecessary, but I agree a Truetrac is a great choice. In fact, you could also put a Truetrac in the rear.
So I would do the rear first and then decide if more is needed.

[Landy Red]

That's great feedback DiscoMick... and the bit about spinning wheels is my experience too.. correct me if I'm wrong, but surly it's not going to be spinning very fast if the other rear wheel has some traction.. unlike an open set up. This is why I was thinking less likely to break standard axles when a Detroit is fitted - because that scenario of a spinning wheel that suddenly gets traction is also less likely.

[Vern]

Personally i would get a selectable locker for the front over an atb, i removed my atb after about 3000km, wasn't a fan of how it performed on road, torque steer was horrendous, but i did have a bit more power than a 300tdi.
But, as for my detroit in the rear, love it, amd i agree with the others, do the aftermarket axles.

[Landy Red]

Thanks Vern. Any feedback/comment on the on-road manners of the Detroit?

[DeeJay]

Personally i would get a selectable locker for the front over an atb, i removed my atb after about 3000km, wasn't a fan of how it performed on road, torque steer was horrendous, but i did have a bit more power than a 300tdi.
But, as for my detroit in the rear, love it, amd i agree with the others, do the aftermarket axles.

Ditto, took me 2 sets of suspension bushes all round to work out it is the ATB...

I also currently have a rear detroit with maxi axles. My County from years ago had ARB lockers & standard axles, I gave it hell with no breakages, but maybe front & rears are less stressfull than just rears.

[DeeJay]

Thanks Vern. Any feedback/comment on the on-road manners of the Detroit?

My Detroit has now clocked up about 30k, It still kangaroo hops around carparks, courts etc & maybe once a few thou k"s give off an almighty bang & jerk. But for the $$ it cost I'm pretty happy. Done the Simpson, Kimberley, Pilbara. Gibb River rd, all good..

[asmit]

Thanks Vern. Any feedback/comment on the on-road manners of the Detroit?

you will not notice it unless you flat your foot half way through a corner... and even then...
A detroit like this one Eaton 225SL36 - Detroit Locker - Land Rover Salisbury 8HA 24 Spline - Free Shipping! (https://www.drivetrainshop.com/Detroit_Locker_p/eat-225sl36.htm) is really a 'unlocker' which ratchets when there is a speed difference between the wheels (one wheel effectively rotates backwards).
However when you apply power it will stop ratcheting and lock.

Watch the video in that link. I think EAT-225SL36 Salisbury 8HA Detroit Locker | 24 Spline (3.54) is the part for you.

I prefer the simplicity of this type of locker over the arb in my perentie...

My experience was that after fitting the arb rear locker and using it on a wheeling trip while loaded (3T 110 perentie) I twisted both sals shafts.

locker $715 Differential, Eaton Detroit Locker, 24-Spline, Land Rover, Each (https://www.vpw.com.au/differential-detroit-locker-24-spline-land-rover-e)
axles $625 pair IIRC maxidrive from MR automotive

Start with the locker if you cannot afford both, no-one here knows your driving style and cannot predict if you will break your axles or not... although I think the consensus is that it's inevitable, but I think it's got a lot to do with the weight you're carrying around and how you use that right foot... [tonguewink]

[POD]

When I bought my 130 it already had an ARB locker in the rear, I spent a bomb on Ashcroft pegged front locker, CVs, flanges and axles all around. I have recently replaced the ARB rear locker with the Ashcroft pegged version, also replaced rear shafts and flanges as the splines were quite worn after about 180k. I'm not sure about the increased / decreased likelihood of snapping something with lockers, I'm very aware that on a steep, rough climb with diffs locked I can be putting the whole drive load through one axle in the worst locations, but it is almost never a shock load like a spin-grab with open diffs. The air lockers behave normally on the road and lock completely when I want them to, can't ask better than that.

[rick130]

We had a Detroit locker in the rear of our D1 300Tdi and it was a good thing.
Standard axles and flanges never broke, even in The Simpson.
The main danger is if a wheel is spinning and suddenly grips, transferring the load to the axle, so sympathetic driving helps.

I never bothered doing anything to the front, as it was unnecessary, but I agree a Truetrac is a great choice. In fact, you could also put a Truetrac in the rear.
So I would do the rear first and then decide if more is needed.
That's great feedback DiscoMick... and the bit about spinning wheels is my experience too.. correct me if I'm wrong, but surly it's not going to be spinning very fast if the other rear wheel has some traction.. unlike an open set up. This is why I was thinking less likely to break standard axles when a Detroit is fitted - because that scenario of a spinning wheel that suddenly gets traction is also less likely.One piece axles vs splined axle plus drive flange have very different wear characteristics, plus sand doesn't potentially shock load such as all the torque going through one wheel when the other is lifted in rocks, etc.

[MLD]

worth remembering that torque load isn't governed by whether you are locked or not. in theory you can have the same torque load at a wheel in an unlocked vehicle as you would with a twin locked vehicle. Think of a side slope up hill. the rear wheel on the downhill side is carrying the majority of the vehicle weight and thus torque load at that wheel is greatest of the 4 wheels. Torque is a twisting force thus is highest at the place of greatest resistance. Where lockers come into their own is the ability to slow down wheel speed to match the vehicle speed reducing shock load. There will still be shock load as the engine power torques up against the resistance provided by the wheel coming back to ground but it is modest compared to a fast spinning wheel coming to a sudden stop.

As for the detroit locker, i've been told that a snapped axle can damage the carrier. If that is true, using stock axles as a fuse might cost you more money than you planned.

You can build a Dana 60, 30 spline ARB rear end for about $300 more than a 24 spline ARB with HD axles rear end. A maxi drive, with labour is the same up front cost as a Dana 60 30 spline set up. I paid less for my Dana 60 35 spline ARB locker than ARB RRP for the Sals locker. Detroit Dana 60 can be had for a little over $1,000, 2 cases of beer cheaper than i paid for the ARB. All you need to do is machine the spindle bore to suit the larger axle and source axles and flanges. MR Automotive and (if you ask nice) Jacmac will make them for you or source fixed flange versions from US. the R&P carry over save for imperial bolts v's metric for the crown, rest is LR spec. i wish i had known when i built my maxi, the 3 replaced snapped axles would have covered the extra cost of a Dana 60 conversion. Now doing it with a 35 spline set up but that is a step up in price and hassle.

$800 for a set of HD axles is a modest cost and why not do it. And for what it is worth, my preference is selectable locker. rear locker on slippery side slopes can make your ring pucker. much prefer control of a selectable locker.

[Red90]

Actually that is wrong. With an open diff the torque is the same on both wheels always. That is the entire concept.

With a locked axle all of the torque can go to one wheel.

[DiscoMick]

A Detroit locker is locked all the time, except when it unlocks for a sharp turn, such as a roundabout.
A Truetrac is normally unlocked, except when it locks because a wheel spins, rather like traction control. That's why Truetracs can be used in the front without affecting steering.
So, is it right to assume a Truetrac would put less load on an axle and be less likely to snap it, compared with a Detroit locker?

[Red90]

That is also not how a truetrac works. It never locks. It biases torque. No wheel slip needs to happen. All of the torque bias happens before the low traction wheel moves faster than the high traction wheel.

[DiscoMick]

Yes, you're right, my explanation was a bit simplistic. It can reduce or stop wheelspin.

Detroit Truetrac | differential | limited slip | Eaton (https://www.eaton.com/au/en-gb/catalog/differentials/eaton-detroit-truetrac-differential.html)

[slug_burner]

I have. 95MY 110 wagon with the 300Tdi. I went for the selectable option and have air lockers. My rear axle shafts had a fair bit of wear so the decision was made for me with respect to axle replacements and the Maxi was good value for axles and flanges. I would go the HD axles and flanges.

[Landy Red]

Thanks for all the great feedback people! That video provided good explanations too. I look forward to seeing how the Detroit goes, and I'll upgrade the half shafts down the track when the current ones start showing signs of ware (and when funds allow) Seems that from feedback here, it's probably worth while, and piece of mind to have HD shafts in the back. But if I keep waiting around to have enough coin to pay for it all once, I'll never get there! Selectable lockers would probably be great too but just not the bang for a buck I require on current budget. I've got one of the ARB diff covers already, so back end should be quite strong when finished.

[Robmacca]

Sorry if this is a dumb question... but with a Dana 60 conversion - are u still using your original Sal's diff housing?




worth remembering that torque load isn't governed by whether you are locked or not. in theory you can have the same torque load at a wheel in an unlocked vehicle as you would with a twin locked vehicle. Think of a side slope up hill. the rear wheel on the downhill side is carrying the majority of the vehicle weight and thus torque load at that wheel is greatest of the 4 wheels. Torque is a twisting force thus is highest at the place of greatest resistance. Where lockers come into their own is the ability to slow down wheel speed to match the vehicle speed reducing shock load. There will still be shock load as the engine power torques up against the resistance provided by the wheel coming back to ground but it is modest compared to a fast spinning wheel coming to a sudden stop.

As for the detroit locker, i've been told that a snapped axle can damage the carrier. If that is true, using stock axles as a fuse might cost you more money than you planned.

You can build a Dana 60, 30 spline ARB rear end for about $300 more than a 24 spline ARB with HD axles rear end. A maxi drive, with labour is the same up front cost as a Dana 60 30 spline set up. I paid less for my Dana 60 35 spline ARB locker than ARB RRP for the Sals locker. Detroit Dana 60 can be had for a little over $1,000, 2 cases of beer cheaper than i paid for the ARB. All you need to do is machine the spindle bore to suit the larger axle and source axles and flanges. MR Automotive and (if you ask nice) Jacmac will make them for you or source fixed flange versions from US. the R&P carry over save for imperial bolts v's metric for the crown, rest is LR spec. i wish i had known when i built my maxi, the 3 replaced snapped axles would have covered the extra cost of a Dana 60 conversion. Now doing it with a 35 spline set up but that is a step up in price and hassle.

$800 for a set of HD axles is a modest cost and why not do it. And for what it is worth, my preference is selectable locker. rear locker on slippery side slopes can make your ring pucker. much prefer control of a selectable locker.

[MLD]

Sorry if this is a dumb question... but with a Dana 60 conversion - are u still using your original Sal's diff housing?

Yes, same housing, same C&P, same wheel hub & brakes, all LR spec bearings. Major difference is Dana 60 centre, custom axles & drive flange to suit, bore spindle axle to suit 30 spline. If you use dana 60 C&P you have to (i) use Dana spec bearings to suit the pinion; (ii) change your pinion flange to suit the dana pinion spline count (29 i think); and (ii) change the drive shaft coupling to suit if you go a flange or strap style UJ (same as Jeep). If you are not changing your crown ratio there is no need to worry about this last part. If you are running more HP / NM there is merit in changing to the 1350 UJ so the drive shaft upgrade is money well spent.

[clive22]

Hi

That's what I have seen happen too. No locker. Front Wheels lifts, unloaded half shaft spins at several times speed, putting kinetic energy into entire rotating wheel assembly. Wheel comes down and finds enough traction to transfer all that kinetic energy into strain energy, exceeding fracture capacity of half shaft or CV...dreaded..bang..click..click.. noises, axle or CV gas gone . Also explains why the short shaft tends to break more too.. less material to absorb that excess energy or more energy imparted per unit of volume.

One things I love about lockers over all other systems, traction control, Detroit, ATB,etc. You engage them before you traverse a low traction situations. You then don't have to regain traction. A spinning wheel has a whole lot less traction than a gripping one.

Clive

[101RRS]

I first got into 4wding in 1975 and this argument on whether lockers break or do not break axles was going on then without resolution. Lockers have not broken any axles on my 101 - not a good example due to the size of the axles - nor my Haflinger with their match stick axles. The only time I have broken axles was in my standard series and it broke two axles driving on the bitumen. The clue to me is when I was a kid my neighbour Morris Major used to break axles when he loaded all the neighbourhood kids into the car - overloaded.

So my thought is that axles will break in an open diff where too much zoom zoom is being used and one wheel is in the air spinning away and it bites into something coming to a quick halt.

With diff locks, if the axles are in good condition they will not normally break unless the vehicle is over loaded and too much zoom zoom is being used.

My thoughts.

Garry

[butundede]

We run a Detroit true trac in our Sals rear and an ARB air locker in the front of our 110. Maxi drive axles front and rear, ashcroft cv’s. Run wolfs and 255’s. Its great, but i’d probably get selectable lockers front and rear next time (in our 130).
Just drove up to the Pieman a few weeks ago, no issues getting in or out, unlike the unlocked triton that came along....

[W&KO]

My ARB locker has, just booked it in to be installed.

Wiring loom hasn’t arrived.

[Landy Red]

Does the air locker front get much use?
We run a Detroit true trac in our Sals rear and an ARB air locker in the front of our 110. Maxi drive axles front and rear, ashcroft cv’s. Run wolfs and 255’s. Its great, but i’d probably get selectable lockers front and rear next time (in our 130).
Just drove up to the Pieman a few weeks ago, no issues getting in or out, unlike the unlocked triton that came along....

[butundede]

Does the air locker front get much use?

Yep, I tend to use it proactively. Comes into its own climbing up steps or muddy hills.

[W&KO]

Does the air locker front get much use?

When I have F and R ARB’s on my old defer I rarely had the need to use the front locker.

Previous owner fitted them.....

I’m undecided if I’ll install one in the front for our trip as I seemed to by with just the rear.

[101RRS]

Same here in my Haflinger - rarely use the front locker and only occasionally the rear locker.

[vnx205]

When I had my long wheelbase Haflinger, my party trick was driving up the face of dams on farms.

I tried various combinations of 4WD, rear locker and both lockers. Almost every dam needed everything locked.

However, I very rarely used the front locker on firetrails and tracks because of the effect it had on the ability to steer. If I was going straight, it was definitely helpful, but if I needed to turn, it was a bit disconcerting.

[Landy Red]

I had to google what a haflinger was.. they look pretty cool. Wikipedia said they had locking axles front and rear, what kind of diff lock did they have?
Same here in my Haflinger - rarely use the front locker and only occasionally the rear locker.

[101RRS]

They are purely mechanical with levers and rods to activate them.

[ashtrans]

IMO you are incorrect. I believe the stress on the axles is increased with a locker that is locked over obstacles
If your diff is unlocked all the power in that diff is transferred to the wheel with the least load. Say you have your diff locked and one wheel on the air ALL the power on that diff is transferred to the wheel on the ground whereas unlocked almost zero power is transferred to that drive wheel.
IMO stronger axles are a must when installing lockers

I don't really subscribe to this theory, shafts don't break due to power, they fail due to the shock loading you get when a wheel spins and bites, a locked vehicle can crawl in a slower controlled manner whereas an unlocked vehicle often relies on momentum to clear an obstacle, this means more speed, more wheelspin and ultimately more shock loading and thus more failures.

having said that, the stock shafts are not very strong and we sell lots of the HD shafts but all things being equal I would say driving locked and slower causes less drive line shock loading.

Dave

[lebanon]

Hope the video helps with your decision.

Front Locker vs Rear Locker vs Twin locked Differential - Off Road test comparison - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuzGxAKOnoY)

[Robmacca]

I don't really subscribe to this theory, shafts don't break due to power, they fail due to the shock loading you get when a wheel spins and bites, a locked vehicle can crawl in a slower controlled manner whereas an unlocked vehicle often relies on momentum to clear an obstacle, this means more speed, more wheelspin and ultimately more shock loading and thus more failures.

having said that, the stock shafts are not very strong and we sell lots of the HD shafts but all things being equal I would say driving locked and slower causes less drive line shock loading.

Dave

From personal experience (Non-LR but in a Suzuki with a Auto-Locker in the rear) - I had a Autolocker in the rear of my Suzuki Vitara and it was also my daily driver. the Auto-locker was a bit of a PITA in the rear when driving into carparks with tight turns, etc. After having it in the rear for a period of years I was 4wdriving down in Sundown NP and I was navigating this bit of a hillclimb out of a creek slowly as I have reduction gears in the Zook when I heard a bang. To cut a long story short - this turned out to be me snapping my rear axle and when looking at it and the other side - u could see the twisting of the splines to the point of where the axle did eventually break. Having reduction gears enabled me to tackle obstacles slowly which gave me great control but it is my opinion that being my daily driver and all the tight carpark turns, etc that this is what partly led to the axle twisting and breaking eventually. So, for me, I reckon it doesn't necessary matter whether u have a locker or not, u can "over time" still snap axles given the right circumstances...

[Red90]

Your auto locker was not working properly. You should never have it bind up in tight turns.

[Robmacca]

Your auto locker was not working properly. You should never have it bind up in tight turns.

It doesn't bind up when there is no load on it but as soon as u apply the fast pedal, that's when it locks up... I use it hear it click when I coasting around corners...

[discorevy]

I suspect it was one of those cheap n nasty lockers ( rhymes with cock bite ) which would've weakened the axles over time

[Robmacca]

I suspect it was one of those cheap n nasty lockers ( rhymes with cock bite ) which would've weakened the axles over time


The brand of the locker has nothing to do with it... it worked fine for the period I had it in, I was just trying to indicate that u can still break axles even though u are not "sending it" as some would say...

[karlz]

Hope the video helps with your decision.

Front Locker vs Rear Locker vs Twin locked Differential - Off Road test comparison - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuzGxAKOnoY)

That video is awesome. Made me reprioritise front over rear.
Probably will get both now.

[discorevy]

The brand of the locker has nothing to do with it... it worked fine for the period I had it in, I was just trying to indicate that u can still break axles even though u are not "sending it" as some would say...


In this case the brand does have something to do with it because as far as I know they only make this ( ratcheting ) type locker, which will fatigue the axles over time

[Red90]

It doesn't bind up when there is no load on it but as soon as u apply the fast pedal, that's when it locks up... I use it hear it click when I coasting around corners...

Yes. That means it was crap. It should still unlock under power.

[Landy Red]

Well I have the Eaton Detroit locker in now, decided in the end to go the maxi axles and flanges too. First test drive up in the hills behind queenie seemed good, no wheel spin on sections that would previously require more momentum but now crawls up easily! And operation on street driving was flawless - don't notice it at all and no clunks. Can't really comment on supermarket carparks; don't have one of those here. But so far seems great and can't wait test further in coming Xmas break!

[Landy Red]

But of interest to the discussion, my mechanic was saying they used to fit the Detroits in trucks all the time as they handled better on slippery declines underground.

[Rick]

don't notice it at all and no clunks.

When you do the first time it might be a bit of a shock. When I first fitted my Detroit locker the clunks were loud and were accompanied with a decent shutter from the backend. I'm not sure if the cogs round a bit but the clunks are softer now and so is the shutter. I've had it in for about 2 years.

[Robmacca]

When you do the first time it might be a bit of a shock. When I first fitted my Detroit locker the clunks were loud and were accompanied with a decent shutter from the backend. I'm not sure if the cogs round a bit but the clunks are softer now and so is the shutter. I've had it in for about 2 years.


Curious here... but what's the difference between the Detroit Locker and the other Autolockers (Lockright brand)?

Seems they behave in a similar manner....

[101RRS]

Curious here... but what's the difference between the Detroit Locker and the other Autolockers (Lockright brand)?



The difference is the Detroit is far superior than Lockright and much more reliable - basically Lockright are crap (they regularly break) and Detroits are good [thumbsupbig].

On my 11 year experience with a rear detroit, you will only here them unlocking is if you do a tight U turn on bitumen. If you do similar on damp ground/grass it will probably not unlock and rip up the grass - as happens when I manoeuvre on my lawn.

Garry

[Landy Red]

When you do the first time it might be a bit of a shock. When I first fitted my Detroit locker the clunks were loud and were accompanied with a decent shutter from the backend. I'm not sure if the cogs round a bit but the clunks are softer now and so is the shutter. I've had it in for about 2 years.Felt a little bump this morning nothing much at all. Actually I would say less noticable than the trutrack in the falcon.

[Robmacca]

The difference is the Detroit is far superior than Lockright and much more reliable - basically Lockright are crap (they regularly break) and Detroits are good [thumbsupbig].

On my 11 year experience with a rear detroit, you will only here them unlocking is if you do a tight U turn on bitumen. If you do similar on damp ground/grass it will probably not unlock and rip up the grass - as happens when I manoeuvre on my lawn.

Garry

Interesting... Exactly what u described with the behaviour of your Detroit is the same as what I've experienced with the AutoLocker that I use to have in the rear of my Zook & I had that in there for 7yrs or so until I snapped a rear axle. I rarely heard it unless I had to do a tight turn in a carpark where I also had to apply the accelerator...This is when it became annoying and when I did snap a rear axle and saw how the splines were twisted on both axles eventually replacing it with a Airlocker in the rear, but left the Front Autolocker in which has turned out to be a much better option in the Zook as I find I very rarely ever need the rear airlocker as the front AL gets me through most obstacles...

A good mate of mine has a Detroit in the rear of his 80's when he 1st bought it and normally u didn't really hear it either... unless u just happen to need to remove your front driveshaft for fault finding and u suddenly start hearing it a lot more because u no longer have any drive going to the front diff/wheels...

I assume with most full-time 4wds like the 80's/105's & LR's that this would be the case where a fair portion of the drive goes through the front, thus limiting any noise coming from the rear Detroit ??

[101RRS]

Interesting... Exactly what u described with the behaviour of your Detroit is the same as what I've experienced with the AutoLocker

All these "AutoUnlockers" all work on the same basic principle - just some like the Detroit work better than others.


I assume with most full-time 4wds like the 80's/105's & LR's that this would be the case where a fair portion of the drive goes through the front, thus limiting any noise coming from the rear Detroit ??

In AWD all the noises etc of a Detroit in the back still happen - one of the original complaints in hot rods etc was these diff locks tended to try and drive the vehicle straight ahead on corners because of the lack of differential action until forces may the diff unlock on click and there would be sudden issues with handling.

In low wheel base awds, the front drive tends to overcome the tendency to drive straight ahead as the front pulls the vehicle in the direction you are wanting to go. Also - the makers of the Detroit changed to the "soft locker" version some time back, which is where all the unlocking etc happens "softer" so less banging and crashing which has been my experience. 99.9% of the time you would not know you have a newer detroit in the rear - and with a 101 and its big axles, axle problems are extremely rare.

Garry

[Landy Red]

Well, did some further testing tonight.. I took the defender for a decent highway drive (wet road). First up, the 99 bends leading out of Queenstown (if you know it you know it.) I was expecting some action up here on the hairpins - but heard nothing and it felt normal to drive. If anything felt better. Then 40ks or so of highway with varying corners; no unexpected or unusual steering effects noticed. I would also add there is absolutely no extra backlash actually feels tighter; I suppose the old axles/flanges could have been a little worn. Back in town I took the kids for a drive looking at Xmas lights, so lots of turns in cul-de-sac etc. No noises in diff, odd tyre scuff in gravel and the turning circle might be worse? But, for the added capability offroad and minimal negative effects on road (so far) I would totally recommend this set up. Be very interesting to do more driving on and off road in coming weeks. I will see if I can't test it further this weekend up Darwin plateau, Montezuma, climes or similar. Otherwise there is a trail behind the highschool that will give it good test!! (That is the last place I snapped a half- shaft.)

[W&KO]

Well I have the Eaton Detroit locker in now, decided in the end to go the maxi axles and flanges too. First test drive up in the hills behind queenie seemed good, no wheel spin on sections that would previously require more momentum but now crawls up easily! And operation on street driving was flawless - don't notice it at all and no clunks. Can't really comment on supermarket carparks; don't have one of those here. But so far seems great and can't wait test further in coming Xmas break!

Thanks for the update....

I just picked my defer up from having an ARB fitted to tie rear. Now I have to plumb it in.