EAS compressor won't run no codes

[4X4V8]

I know P38 EAS problems are common and there are probably thousands of threads on EAS issues. I have searched online both in the various EAS guides and a Google search for threads and have come tantalisingly close to finding my issue but not quite.

So my apologies if this has been covered before, but I have looked and can't find anything.

Problem: EAS compressor will not run. Car in Access mode and while normal height light is flashing on the dash, it remains in Access mode. No dash EAS fault warnings (eg 'slow to 55KPH') appear at all.

Background: My P38 fits in the garage only in Access mode. Thus it is lowered and locked to get in there and then raised to normal height every time it is used. I have used it more than usual lately, but that is still maybe only once or twice a week. Compressor was running, what seemed 'normally' with no unusual noise and not for what I thought would be excessive periods. No previous EAS problems except faulty RL height sensor, replaced a month ago with a genuine LR sensor and has not has any EAS problem from then until now, over 15-20 vehicle ign cycles.

This morning I reversed the car out of the garage with EAS LOCKED (so it won't try to make the car a convertible by crushing it against the garage roof or door) and then when about to reverse, disengaged EAS lock. It normally raises to std height. It did not. I drove 300m in this condition, hoping the EAS would play. Gave up and came back home.

What I have done: Plugged in the Nanocom and checked EAS faults. 'Unrecognised fault detected' or similar was showing. I cleared that. Now does not show any faults after checking three times over an hour or so of mucking around with the EAS.

Also, with engine off, I commanded EAS compressor to 'ON' on Nanocom. A click sound could be heard coming from compressor. I tried this a few times, same result.

With engine running, dash EAS Access mode light solid and normal mode flashing (as in, it wants to raise to normal height but has not done so yet) Nanocom shows pump is on, rear valves open(?)

Removed F44 air suspension fuse (? 6th fuse front front, right side 10A in main fuse block). Fuse not blown, fuse box not melted etc. Replaced fuse, then EAS solenoids clicked about 6 times. Checked Maxifuse 2, not blown. Fusebox not melted etc.

Then removed relay RL20, replaced with new relay. Started car, no difference. Then turned off car, removed RL20, bridged pins 30 and 87 at relay 20, air compressor clicked.

Final thing, tried tapping compressor body lightly with a light hammer to see if stuck. No change.

I'm at the point where I think it could be a pressure switch, thermal switch, EAS driver or failed compressor motor. For the first two, I would have thought a bridged connection at the fuse box would override and that the compressor should then run.

Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated.

[theelms66]

Check you have power AND earth at the 2 pin plug at the compressor itself in the command ON position . If power ok, you have a faulty comp or thermal switch (switch in motor).
You can put one end a test light in one pin of that plug and the other end of test light in the other pin. Should light up if system is ok when activated.

[4X4V8]

Main problem now is that the connector to the compressor won’t budge. I looked at a video online of it being disconnected and there doesn’t seem to be any trick to it; just a locking tang but I can’t get it to move a millimetre. Maybe corrosion? The connector has a rubber seal so you wouldn’t think so. I’ll keep trying. Sigh. What a pain in the neck.

[4X4V8]

EDIT: I got the compressor running by powering it direct (via a 10a fuse) from the battery and earthing it on the chassis.
So I don't understand why the connector melted, or if that is why the pump would not run.

Has anyone seen this before? The power and earth connections were melted on the female side of the connector. So it looks like maybe the compressor motor shorted? If so, why wouldn't it blow a fuse? Could trying to run the compressor by bridging the relay connectors do that?

Now I'm thinking that, aside from the motor, I should also replace that burnt connector...166860

[theelms66]

Your compressor is fine if your 10 amp fuse ran it. Just replace the burnt connectors. Poor connection creates heat hense the melted terminal block. The more heat the more resistance and so on , eventually it will stop working.

[4X4V8]

I removed the wires from the burnt plug and reattached them to the compressor. No evidence of burnt insulation on the wires and the spade connectors look fine to me. Anyway, the air compressor now works as normal. I have a new plug and connectors coming from the UK. I'll keep a close eye on it this time, hopefully it won't melt again. On some P38 pages on FB, others have said they have had exactly the same problem. I have noticed a few P38s over the years that have spade connectors on the loom to the air compressor and wondered why. Now I know.

I think the air tank must've been depleted because while getting out of the garage the Access mode light was flashing. It never has done that before, even if left for weeks. Once the light was solid it was slow rising when normal height was selected.

I will get the soapy water out again and hunt for leaks. I am not all that familiar with this system but I suspect there are air leaks.