Freelander 2 Si4 2013 turbo gone

[addup]

Following had a great run with FL2 i6’s, negligible issues over 196,000kms (2009 purchased new) and 137,000kms (2011), I was keen to add an Si4 to the collection based on the afore mentioned reliability. The FL2’s are a top drive especially in i6 form and the Si4 did not disappoint in that regard with ripper acceleration and handling gain due to lighter front end. Unfortunately, it may not have been a wise move.

Recently lost boost (101,00kms) and had a quote from local LR dealer to replace turbo - OEM unit $5500, remove & install $4000, seals, consumables, etc say $500 strewth !!. Especially after the power transfer case went (84,000kms, $5500) fortunately covered by dealer statutory warranty, then a coolant dump via failed water pump seal (96,000kms, $1750). So potentially could have forked out close to purchase price in 18months of ownership for mechanical fails if I was a hapless bend over driver on repairs.

Anyhow, after research I have removed the turbo to discover it had 2 fails, the Stainless Steel manifold had cracked off the no 4 port bracket and the ring baffle around the turbo vanes fractured and jammed/chomped the drive fins. (see pics) So if the turbo had not gone we weren’t to know that we have been driving around maybe quietly gassing ourselves. Both fails appear to be well known issues in USA for the LR2s and Evoques with this OEM SS turbo manifold on the ecoboost petrol motor. Reported that some vehicles are on a second replacement within 100,000kms.

There are now cast iron manifold turbo replacement options available from US, some appear ridiculously cheap, with my choice a Stigan from buycarparts.com. Here in under 2 weeks for about $1800 including post and import charges. The OEM Borg Warner turbo (with SS manifold) is also available from there for a little more but why would you bother !
I’m currently chasing down new seals/gaskets etc, to reinstall soon, other commitments permitting.

I was somewhat daunted to start based on the dealer quote but removal was not hugely difficult with enough 1/4”, 3/8” wobble drive extensions and adaptors. A couple of turbo2cat pipe nuts are out of sight and could be fun getting back, but all manifold nuts/studs are accessible from above. A 1/4” palm ratchet drive is very handy in tight spots once nuts are broken. With benefit of hindsight clarifying an efficient sequence and all tools on hand I’d say about 5 hrs to remove by a competent weekend warrior. Begs a question on the dealer quote, maybe they are thinking “body off” like some Disco work.


I’ll update on the install once the Si4 is back on black.
Safe driving

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2009 FL 2 i6
2011 FL 2 i6 (wife's)
2013 FL 2 Si4

166865166863166864166866

[Pejo]

Good job. Always daunting at first but you’ll learn a lot. Hope it all works out OK
We’ve just bought a 2014 SD4 HSE
Had regular oil changes but not LR servicing. Looking at getting local experts to check it over

Pejo

[rar110]

You could consider a turbo rebuild. The CHRA won’t be that expensive. Chances are it will be a Ford part.

[addup]

This turbo issue for the 2.0 turbo petrol engine and others in the LR model range is well covered by GDL Automotive Services info page - see
https://www.gdlauto.com.au/category/land-rover-range-rover/

I was advised Stainless Steel is a poor choice for an exhaust manifold for this type of application as the metal hardens over time with high heat exposure, becoming brittle and fractures almost inevitable. It remains to be seen if LR has addressed this issue with later models/versions.

I was not aware of the manifold leak from engine noise, not on the radar to check with bonnet up, but based on this experience and others it will be wise for all Si4 owners, Freelander, Evoque & Disco Sport to keep an ear and nose on alert!!

My decision was a quality aftermarket with cast iron manifold - the Stigan has a 2 year/unlimited Kms warranty with OEM only 12 months.

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[addup]

6 months on and 7,000kms car sweet as on the new turbo. (aside from a servicing issue but that's another post)
Straight forward fit and heat shield easier to reinstall - better clearance with more compact C I manifold.

The only mod was removing a 'T' junction on one of the vacuum tubes, presumably for an optional v/b gauge.

Unit is heavier that OEM and if a solo install best to arrange a hang up system over back of motor to clip/tie manifold into and support while lining up the intercooler connector. The oil return tube is easily damaged if snagged with that weight on it.
Turbo fits up from under car, LHS (cat pipe, cross brace & support removed) and with a bit of rotation plenty of clearance that way.
Engine smoother, quieter and more tractable than before and manifold crack potential now zero. [smilebigeye]

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MY09 FL2 i6 205k
MY11 FL2 i6 143k wife'S
MY13 FL2 si4 107k