Electrical issue - battery drain, brake controller & reverse sensors RS etc

[gotaflat]

ok,

strange things are happening, will list what I know - appreciate any ideas where to look (as i feel the trailer sockets are RS/dirty/or wires shorting some where)


Main Battery dropping quickly overnight - (getting the low battery warning and hard to start)
Duel Battery (Traxide) seems to be working fine - maintains charge - ramps up to 14.5/7 once main battery charged.
Charge main battery (seemingly in only 1 hr.....) with NOCO mains battery charger. I am suspicious at this as battery drained over night is 9.5v on MM and battery monitor.
SO battery could be stuffed????
Any way battery monitor states 14.3 - 14.6 (on power) (confirmed with MM) once car started (so getting plenty via the Alternator)
Turn off car drops to 12.8 - rests at 12.46v (confirmed bb MM) - does seem to drop off quickly.......overnight can drop a lot or a little less - either way the car struggles to start and low battery warning.
Battery tester shows CCA down to 650 but not 100% on the tester for that while in car...
any way - battery could be the issue
Found that the brake controller not working (red Arc tow pro)- replaced 25a auto re set fuse because its was not letting any volts through through - fixed that
Still no red light on the controller when brake peddle pushed ... or on over ride. (very faintest glow/pulse on manual
trailer sockets full of mud - cleaned - may need more..
Reverse sensors not working - but not getting a fault (front are - they were not now are...) . any way
In reverse I am now getting 'Align target' in the camera view" - See pict

167750

may not be related??? battery could be dead.
Assuming I need to get under and look a the trailer sockets? and or the brake controller join in the rear left tail light???? I can feel the controller unit 'activating' on manual over ride... but no light as mentioned (only very very slight glow/pulse).

could all be related??? wires earthing and draining the battery ??? in the rear???

Thanks.... [bighmmm]

[BushDisco]

Hi Go flat,
Two things I would test straight off the bat.
1. With ignition off switches on headlights main beam for a few minutes, test voltage. Then switch off and ignition off, test voltage and see what it’s down to and how long it takes to recover. Otherwise you are just measuring residual charge.
2. Once battery issue resolved test you are getting a decent voltage to the brake activation circuit on your rear socket by using a voltmeter. Should read up to the voltage of the battery at that time. Obviously you need an assistant to apply the brakes or apply manual override.

This will tell you if the battery is stuffed or not and if your brake controller is doing it’s job.

If issues with rear voltage then seems like you have a broken or shorted circuit.

If battery stuffed (collapsed plates etc.) then can also affect other vehicle systems but not sure it would affect breaking circuit as long as it’s above 12v.

[josh.huber]

Just drive to any retailer they all have battery testers and can give you a test on the spot for free. 650cca is pretty low for a D4 battery. Make sure you take the negative off the aux battery when testing to make sure it doesn't test both of them