Head gasket - dry or wet install

[jedwards]

A happy Australia Day to all.
I am planning to install a new head gasket soon and was wondering what the views of this excellent group are on installing the Head gasket dry or wet.

There seem to be three views on head gaskets.
Spray Gasket Seal - I have always used a thin spray-on gasket seal to both sides of head gaskets I have installed and have never had a failure, but this is my first Series 1 2 litre but the design seems unremarkable..
Oil on Head and Block. The Land Rover Workshop manual suggests smearing both surfaces with engine oil before fitting the head.
Go Dry. Many Land Rover articles I have come across, suggest using nothing at all and just install the head with a dry gasket.

Which is there methods are used by most on this Forum? Does it really make a difference?

Using the old adage "never install anything dry, would seem to make sense as some lubrication will allow some movement as things start to clamp down.

Finally, does a copper gasket has a distinct Top and Bottom surface?

Many thanks
Jeff

[Tins]

Bet you get some interesting answers...

Back in the day we used to use CopperCoat. I'm kinda doing a Series III atm. If I was using the copper gasket that I have I would use Hylomar aerosol, which doesn't harden, but I'm going to use the gasket for a diesel and will install it dry.

Dunno about oil.

Hylomar (https://hylomar.com/en/)

[1950landy]

For Copper gaskets we used to fit dry or spray gasket with Silver paint back when I worked for BMC Leyland /JRA dealership. Cork gaskets we soaked in hot water , fibber washers soaked in kero & copper washers put them in boiling water.

[Tins]

For Copper gaskets we used to fit dry or spray gasket with Silver paint back when I worked for BMC Leyland /JRA dealership. Cork gaskets we soaked in hot water , fibber washers soaked in kero & copper washers put them in boiling water.

Did all of that too, in an Army shop. They tended away from the silver paint, but they didn't have a customer to deal with, and RAEME was aways right lol. I have heard it works in the way 1950landy says, but I've not tried it. If the car isn't a daily driver, and you like playing, try it all and tell us the results. My $$ is on the Hylomar. Love to know if I'm wrong. Or right, of course.

[gromit]

I haven't usually used sealants on head gaskets in the past.
Solid copper gaskets (old motorcycles) anneal before fitting dry.
Composite fit dry although on my 6 cylinder LR I did use some Permatex around the water passages.

Interesting comments in the link below but aimed at modern head gaskets.
WARNING ON THE USE OF HYLOMAR! | Southside Cylinder Heads, Engine Reconditioning Australia (https://ssch.com.au/trade-news/warning-on-the-use-of-hylomar/)


Colin

[LR1953]

A happy Australia Day to all.
I am planning to install a new head gasket soon and was wondering what the views of this excellent group are on installing the Head gasket dry or wet.



Finally, does a copper gasket has a distinct Top and Bottom surface?

Many thanks
Jeff

Jeff, might sound obvious, but examine your new head gasket carefully for the word TOP stamped into it. Failing that, lay the dry gasket over the block and check that every oil passage and water passage is patent. Bolt holes need to line up too of course. Repeat after turning the gasket over end-for-end. If there's no difference I wouldn't think it matters which surface is up. Much more important of course is the correct order of tightening down. In my experience it's good practice to repeat the torque-down process several times during the running-in period, and NEVER resort to vigorous acceleration before the engine is fully warmed up.
Cheers, Rob S

[jedwards]

I spoke to Ian Cox of Cox & Turner in the UK about this questions and he responded:

"Definitely use a sealant. We use “Wellseal” – this is a very good non hardening gasket sealer that can be used on all soft gaskets as well as on copper head gaskets. Use a thin smear on the block, fit the gasket and apply another thin smear to the top face of the gasket before fitting the head. Cleanup is with methylated spirit.

I hope this helps everyone.

regards
Jeff

[PerthDisco]

I spoke to Ian Cox of Cox & Turner in the UK about this questions and he responded:

"Definitely use a sealant. We use “Wellseal” – this is a very good non hardening gasket sealer that can be used on all soft gaskets as well as on copper head gaskets. Use a thin smear on the block, fit the gasket and apply another thin smear to the top face of the gasket before fitting the head. Cleanup is with methylated spirit.

I hope this helps everyone.

regards
Jeff

Wonder who stocks this in Australia?

I’m looking at using Permatex #2 seems similar ‘gasket dressing’ product.

Big mistake seems to be using RTV ‘gasket maker’ in conjunction with any gasket. It’s for no gasket joins.

I’m about to put an 80s BMW engine back together and everything I’ve read is to do nothing on the HG other than immaculate preparation. The HG has various crush items that provide the seal.

[jedwards]

That might well be the case with semi-modern BMW, but we are dealing with a 50's British vehicle, which is a very different beast with very different tolerances.
regards
Jeff

[gromit]

That might well be the case with semi-modern BMW, but we are dealing with a 50's British vehicle, which is a very different beast with very different tolerances.

I've done Mini's, Imps, Austin Somersets and a few others dry without any issue.
Adding a sealant seems a bit 'belt & braces' although as mentioned earlier I have done this on my 6-cylinder but only a smear round the water passages.

Colin

[Tins]

Interesting comments in the link below but aimed at modern head gaskets.
WARNING ON THE USE OF HYLOMAR! | Southside Cylinder Heads, Engine Reconditioning Australia (https://ssch.com.au/trade-news/warning-on-the-use-of-hylomar/)


Colin

Interesting.

It needs to be said that 'Hylomar' is like 'Loctite', or indeed 'Castrol'. Many different products carry the name. Also, this thread is not about modern gaskets. However, we all learn something, I reckon.

[rover-56]

You can get away with a lot with early Landrover low compression engines.
Diesels are a bit more touchy.
I always fitted S1 copper head gaskets dry, even used them twice on a couple of occasions.[bighmmm]
S3 2.6 steel shim gaskets gave me trouble sometimes, but maybe just the quality supplied by a Melb. LR parts seller.
No problems after using Hylomar spray both sides of the gasket.
Good surface preparation is vital.
Terry

[matthamilton]

I'm a few days way from preparing for fit a new HG to a 2.6l petrol 6-pot. I have both the metal gasket and a silver looking composite gasket. Which one would you go with first and how would you prep it for installation? Since you specifically mentioned a 2.6l I wanted to reach out and ask you. Thanks!!!!



You can get away with a lot with early Landrover low compression engines.
Diesels are a bit more touchy.
I always fitted S1 copper head gaskets dry, even used them twice on a couple of occasions.[bighmmm]
S3 2.6 steel shim gaskets gave me trouble sometimes, but maybe just the quality supplied by a Melb. LR parts seller.
No problems after using Hylomar spray both sides of the gasket.
Good surface preparation is vital.
Terry

[Blknight.aus]

the gaskets go on as per the instuction that comes with them....


Some copper gaskets have a sealant applied, the Elring composite gaskets have the sealant built into them and sealing rings on things like the coolant ports.