Zf steel pan

[loanrangie]

So time has come to tackle the pan replacement, I have the duroprene gasket so is any sealant required ?
I saw one video where a product like hylomar spray was used.

[DiscoJeffster]

So time has come to tackle the pan replacement, I have the duroprene gasket so is any sealant required ?
I saw one video where a product like hylomar spray was used.

I’ve never used anything with mine and since used two across two removals, no leaks.

[Eric SDV6SE]

No sealant required, just use the duoprene gasket and torque the pan bolts to the specced torque and in the right sequence (14Nm from memory) and you should have no issues.

Did mine like that and zero leaks ~47000km later

[DiscoJeffster]

I retorqued mine after a week after the gasket had settled. They did do up further. I guess you can play that by ear if it’s leaking

[Bulletman]

Turn your air con off well before you do the job as once you turn the car on to check the level @ the required temp - 50 degrees from memory , if the air con is on you will think you have a leaking sump gasket as the drain water leaks out near there. You also dont want to dismiss it as air con drain just in case it isnt.

Have done 3 replacements and each time just put the gasket on and bolted it up ,no gasket goo required.

Bulletman

[DiscoJeffster]

Turn your air con off well before you do the job as once you turn the car on to check the level @ the required temp - 50 degrees from memory , if the air con is on you will think you have a leaking sump gasket as the drain water leaks out near there. You also dont want to dismiss it as air con drain just in case it isnt.

Have done 3 replacements and each time just put the gasket on and bolted it up ,no gasket goo required.

Bulletman

Hahaha. So true!!!!! I had this exact thing. When the cover is on it dissipates and evaporates in the cover. Cover off it’s a nice stream and has you freaked out [emoji1787]

[loanrangie]

Easy enough so far, plastic pan off and zero metal flakes not even a gray paste on the magnets.
Dad's ramp has made it easy, in access height its perfect.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210131/c9c0d3a81b26c6b90b511123b3ff0003.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210131/a5e43c2ad562a734fa64cb139e4a49c1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210131/be0932cc91d56e86ea3d6bedf536acd1.jpg

[DiscoJeffster]

Love that setup. Ingenious

[BrianElloy]

Is it better to get a steel pan or get a gearbox bash plate?

I’ve got bash plates.. wondering if it’s worth my while to do the steel sump when I do the tranny fluid in 12000kms time

[DiscoJeffster]

Is it better to get a steel pan or get a gearbox bash plate?

I’ve got bash plates.. wondering if it’s worth my while to do the steel sump when I do the tranny fluid in 12000kms time

The main reason for the steel pan is so you can more easily service it. You can keep the pan and change the filter form the cost of a filter and gasket. The plastic filter/pan isn’t cheap and it’s throw away anytime you open the box.

[loanrangie]

Is it better to get a steel pan or get a gearbox bash plate?

I’ve got bash plates.. wondering if it’s worth my while to do the steel sump when I do the tranny fluid in 12000kms timeNo steel pan for an 8spd.

[DiscoJeffster]

No steel pan for an 8spd.

Correct, so moot point for 8spd

[loanrangie]

Did a coffee run to 711 to get the fluid up to temp and topped it off with about 700mls, dry as bone under there so i did ok with the pan gasket and torquing it down.

[PerthDisco]

The main reason for the steel pan is so you can more easily service it. You can keep the pan and change the filter form the cost of a filter and gasket. The plastic filter/pan isn’t cheap and it’s throw away anytime you open the box.

Unless you have the steel pan like mine with no drain hole. Thanks TransmissionsRUs not.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Did a coffee run to 711 to get the fluid up to temp and topped it off with about 700mls, dry as bone under there so i did ok with the pan gasket and torquing it down.

Hmmm, the procedure is to idle the car, cycle through the gears with foot on brake whilst filling (2nd person required) and watching trans temp. Correct level is achievwd when trans is at 35deg C and fluid dribbles back out the fill hole. Dont want to over or underfill these units.

[DiscoDB]

ZF level checking procedure for 6 speed.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210202/e7461343c01d98f91ccee64672ec500c.jpg

Can be done by 1 person.

[loanrangie]

Hmmm, the procedure is to idle the car, cycle through the gears with foot on brake whilst filling (2nd person required) and watching trans temp. Correct level is achievwd when trans is at 35deg C and fluid dribbles back out the fill hole. Dont want to over or underfill these units.

already did that, test drive then check level again.

[101RRS]

already did that, test drive then check level again.

Using the same procedure? - if not you will have too little oil in the gearbox as the engine needs to be running when oil level is checked.

[DiscoJeffster]

Using the same procedure? - if not you will have too much oil in the gearbox as the engine needs to be running when oil level is checked.

If the engine WASN’T running and the level was set, it would now have too little oil in it as it all settles in the sump with the engine off. I can normally add an additional 1-2L with the engine running after the initial static fill

[101RRS]

If the engine WASN’T running and the level was set, it would now have too little oil in it as it all settles in the sump with the engine off. I can normally add an additional 1-2L with the engine running after the initial static fill

Yes of course - my bad - post corrected - thanks [thumbsupbig]

[Timhodgson]

Hey Nick, if you replace the pan and filter now, how many kms will you run before a second flush? Given not all the fluid can be replaced at once...

[Eric SDV6SE]

If the engine WASN’T running and the level was set, it would now have too little oil in it as it all settles in the sump with the engine off. I can normally add an additional 1-2L with the engine running after the initial static fill

What DJ said, issue is the torque converter is only filled with engine running, so this is why engine needs to be on when filling after a drain. Cycling through the gears removes any entrained air from the valve body and valve lines, ensuring full hydraulic line pressure during operation.

[loanrangie]

not my first rodeo, level is correct.

[loanrangie]

Hey Nick, if you replace the pan and filter now, how many kms will you run before a second flush? Given not all the fluid can be replaced at once...

The point of flushing is to get most of the old fluid out, a simple drain and refill does not.

[DiscoDB]

When I flushed mine, I connected to the radiator line and pumped fresh fluid in with a 12v oil pump at the same time as pumping old fluid out with the engine running.

Ended up pumping out 10L but still expect mixing of old and new fluid. Towards the end the oil coming out was noticeably lighter in colour.

Plan is to run for another 10K then drop pan, fit new filter, and refill with a fresh oil charge in the pan first, then do the same pump out/in flush to minimise the amount of old/new oil mixing. Will aim for 10L again (say 4-5L from pan and 5-6L from the flush).

Should then be good for another 60-80K.

[shanegtr]

I just do a basic drain and refill at every service now. Seems to keep on top of the contamination levels ok. Works out around 4-5L at a change and I use penrite BMV now so a lot cheaper than LG6. I tried a full flush a while ago (would have been around 15L flushed through the trans) and there was still significant quantity of the old oil in the trans that could be picked up in the next oil sample.

[DiscoDB]

This is also a smart way to go Shane.

Especially after doing a good flush first to remove the prior years of build up as you have done.

Add a transmission cooler and it would be the perfect combination - gearbox would probably outlast the engine.

[101RRS]

I just do a basic drain and refill at every service now. Seems to keep on top of the contamination levels ok. Works out around 4-5L at a change and I use penrite BMV now so a lot cheaper than LG6.

I do a basic change every second engine oil change - so in my case every 20,000km. I use LG6 and buy it on sale days from Repco so works out about $25 a litre - about the same price as the Nulon engine oil I use.

Unless you do a mega flush, a normal flush is not a lot better than a simple dump and fill.

Garry

[Eric SDV6SE]

Its been about 45000km since my VB rebuild, new filter steel pan, duoprene gasket and BMV fill etc. Checked fluid level and colour just before our Albany trip last week. fluid is clear. Trans is happy. Will check again at 60,000km, probably change at 80,000 if i still have the car....

[Bulletman]

To those who are using Penrite BMV is it compatible with the lifeguard 6 oil or did you run some sort of flushing agent thru the gearbox first.

Bulletman

[Eric SDV6SE]

To those who are using Penrite BMV is it compatible with the lifeguard 6 oil or did you run some sort of flushing agent thru the gearbox first.

Bulletman
It’s compatible, but I drained as much as I could and flushed about 4-5l through before final fill. No need for a flushing agent imho.