Hello

[Paul Davies]

Hi all and totally new to Land Rovers but I am about to start a major restoration on a SWB Series 11a which I was kindly given by a friend near Roma QLD, it is in reasonable condition having sat in a paddock for some years and has been used as an agricultural vehicle judging by the PTO on the back and various girders and steel bits welded onto the chassis.
Will post some pictures when I can get back in the workshop, life getting in the way of the resto already, I have no idea of the year but have found the chassis number 24306543B, Sydney production ref; Body number LRS 8845, serial number 888845. Grateful for year of manufacture and I have found no engine data plate yet but assume it's a Holden Motor?
Will post pictures later today and a quick word on my taking this resto on, I have restored 3 Austin Champs (ground up) and finished a resto on a Morris C8 truck so not new to getting down and dirty. Also a member of The Military Jeep Club of Queensland and Austin Champ Owners Club.
Paul D

[Paul Davies]

I will try and post some pictures so wish me well. Not sure where they went?

[JDNSW]

It does have some interesting attachments, doesn't it! A picture under the bonnet would allow some of the experts here to confirm whether it is indeed a Holden engine and if so which one.

[Old Farang]

That PTO is a rare find, along with the hand throttle! You have a big job ahead of you to restore that.

Were the Austin Camps army or civilian models?

[JDNSW]

Hand throttles are not at all unusual in Australia. Almost every Series 1,2,2a I have owned has been fitted with one, except for a few that were not Australian built.

The hand throttle was fitted when the PTO was fitted, and also these almost always came with a governor fitted. These really are rare, and it would be very interesting if this is still fitted with a different engine.

[Paul Davies]

Hi again and yes the Champs were all military and served in the Aussie army mainly Victoria way, PTO is certainly a piece of work and I will remove with care. Not sure if it will go back on though anyone any idea of the vehicle year as far as I recall the series 11a went from 1961 to 1971 and with no other data plate on the vehicle yet found I was sure the Vin number was the key. Picture of Champ taken at a recent MJCQ meet with my Australian number 5 trailer I restored which I sleep in.
Paul D

[Old Farang]

Hi again and yes the Champs were all military and served in the Aussie army mainly Victoria way, PTO is certainly a piece of work and I will remove with care. Not sure if it will go back on though anyone any idea of the vehicle year as far as I recall the series 11a went from 1961 to 1971 and with no other data plate on the vehicle yet found I was sure the Vin number was the key. Picture of Champ taken at a recent MJCQ meet with my Australian number 5 trailer I restored which I sleep in.
Paul D
If that under bonnet photo is of your Land Rover, then it is the original Land Rover engine. Somebody on here has all the old Land Rover records, just a matter of tracking them down.

[Old Farang]

Hand throttles are not at all unusual in Australia. Almost every Series 1,2,2a I have owned has been fitted with one, except for a few that were not Australian built.

The hand throttle was fitted when the PTO was fitted, and also these almost always came with a governor fitted. These really are rare, and it would be very interesting if this is still fitted with a different engine.
I didn't say that they were unusual, just RARE. I have had 3 different Series over the years and the only one that had that type of hand throttle was a SII diesel.

[JDNSW]

I don't see a governor there - but it could be out of view.

[Old Farang]

I have no idea of the year but have found the chassis number 24306543B, Sydney production ref; Body number LRS 8845, serial number 888845.

Suffix B chassis numbers were introduced in March 1963. The next shift was Suffix C in August 1965. One problem with numbers is that the CKD vehicles do not appear in the records at Solihull.

Engine numbers have a 3 figure type identifier, a 5 figure serial number and a letter Suffix. The first 3 numbers are probably 251 or 252. Introduced at 251-19953B, and ran from July 1962 - November 1962.

That of course does not hold true if the engine has been changed!

I think that somebody has the Pressed Metal Corp records, but not me.

Get yourself a book by James Taylor: Land Rover Series II and IIA. ISBN 978 1 84797 160 9.

[Paul Davies]

Thanks guys I have the "Quarter Ton" book by Pat Ware with lots of info in but haven't got to the relevant bit yet. Yes it was the Land Rover engine in the picture Rolls Royce is in the champ and all blue, were would the engine number be located on the engine. I will look for the governor and let you know.

[Paul Davies]

Hope you can get something regarding a governor from these pictures.

[JDNSW]

Governor, if fitted, is easily spotted - it is in the engine compartment, on the LH side above the manifolds and belt driven from a dual fan pulley.

The engine number is on the sloping part of the block, immediately below and in front of the intake manifold, adjoining the joint to the water pump. It runs parallel to the join with the WP.

[Old Farang]

Hope you can get something regarding a governor from these pictures.

Those pictures have nothing to do with a governor, they are only about where the PTO connects to the gearbox. As JDNSW posted a governor would be mounted on the engine and belt driven. From what I recall they are roughly square shaped, a bit smaller than a dynamo. Then there would be a linkage from it to the throttle, which yours does not appear to have, only the connection from the hand throttle.

What made you think that it has a Holden engine mentioned in your first post?


I am a bit surprised that your thread has not been moved, as the Forum has a very good section for Series II & IIA. You would be better off posting in that Forum which has a wealth of info and is followed by current owners.

[Paul Davies]

Those pictures have nothing to do with a governor, they are only about where the PTO connects to the gearbox. As JDNSW posted a governor would be mounted on the engine and belt driven. From what I recall they are roughly square shaped, a bit smaller than a dynamo. Then there would be a linkage from it to the throttle, which yours does not appear to have, only the connection from the hand throttle.

What made you think that it has a Holden engine mentioned in your first post?


I am a bit surprised that your thread has not been moved, as the Forum has a very good section for Series II & IIA. You would be better off posting in that Forum which has a wealth of info and is followed by current owners.

Hi Farang and being new to this forum posted in the general and see what happens, there is no Governor in the engine bay and having read about Land Rovers being semi assembled in Australia there was something written about Holden Motors being fitted. I spoke with a friend yesterday who will do part of the engine resto and he tells me it should be a Rover petrol engine 2.25ltr. As for moving the thread then yes by all means the powers that be can do that and I will follow.

[windsock]

I am a bit surprised that your thread has not been moved, as the Forum has a very good section for Series II & IIA. You would be better off posting in that Forum which has a wealth of info and is followed by current owners.


As for moving the thread then yes by all means the powers that be can do that and I will follow.

Moved as you will now notice. We (mods) were watching to see what direction the thread took as to whether it was moved to introductions or SII. It took on a technical aspect so was decided to bring it to SII. Nice old vehicle and welcome to the forum [thumbsupbig].

[1950landy]

168966 Not a S2 but on my 1950 S1 , governor can be seen here just forward of the Carby.

[Old Farang]

169001

[JohnboyLandy]

...., I have restored 3 Austin Champs (ground up).......
Paul D

I think you need to post some pics of those [bigsmile]

Thanks
John

[mox]

Re the photos of governors fitted to Series I motors, - on the right hand side. Have one of these governors I scavenged out of rubbish heap on a company owned station property over 40 years ago. Now have a 1961 Series 2 and also workshop manual for it. Has original 4 cylinder engine block but later head, Series 3 exhaust manifold and Britpart copy of the later Zenith carby which works better than rough looking Stromberg from Holden which had been fitted.

I am thinking a future project could be to install this governor, which as is would suit Series 1 and Rover 6 cylinder petrol motors. (Would be useful sometimes when driving around farm.) However, first handy to know if the one Rover fitted to Series 2, 2a and 3 is basically the same thing but with the case the other way around. ie With mounting bolt holes on right side and linkages on left. Would need to do some modifications and make parts so this could be fitted up on left hand side of Series 2 onward motor in same place as one with a genuine "correct" case, which I am sure as a spare part would now be made of "unobtanium". Illustrations of governor in workshop manual should provide a good guide. The only part significantly different from "standard" would be the main mounting bracket - partly a trial and error type job to make.

Without looking at this governor now to refresh memory, I remember for a start make on identification plate is Isospeedic. Anyway, wondering if anyone is familiar enough with these governors fitted to Land Rovers to know if they are right and left handed versions of basically the same thing.

[gromit]

Without looking at this governor now to refresh memory, I remember for a start make on identification plate is Isospeedic. Anyway, wondering if anyone is familiar enough with these governors fitted to Land Rovers to know if they are right and left handed versions of basically the same thing.

Yes it appears that there was a version for the Series II onwards.
Picture of one here Iso-Speedic Engine Governor (https://www.lroe.co.uk/Iso-speedic-engine-governor)


Colin

[JDNSW]

From the pictures I have in an optional equipment catalogue, the unit is similar but mounted on the other side.

[Paul Davies]

Hi all and a bit more work carried out since the last post, I have removed all the steel from around the PTO and removed the PTO. It's the original Land Rover PTO and the previous owner has replaced the bearings and it is in very good condition so it's been cleaned and stored away. The engine is indeed the original Land Rover engine and will be taken to Bundaberg for overhaul on removal haven't found the number yet as there is too much foreign stuff on it , the rear chassis isn't in good shape so I hope to purchase a new rear section and weld it on. The front diff, steering assembly and suspension are all out and trying to get the front bumper off as there are no hexagons on the four bolts only nuts in the small cavity they sit in so I need to get a small reciprocating saw to remove the nuts. Keep you posted and some pictures for the next post.

[Paul Davies]

Hi guys and I have finally entered the engine bay so the engine number is 25181254F which I hope makes my engine a Rover and original and with the Chassis number 24306543B around 1962! The steering seems to be over complicated having restored champs which have a Rack & Pinion type mechanism compared to the number of Rod End swivels that need replacing on the Rover but I am confident it will all go back nicely.
Regards
Paul

[Paul Davies]

Hi all and some pictures for you all to dwell over, hasn't been the easiest vehicle I have ever stripped but I am getting there. Hope they all the pictures come up and tomorrow I will be taking the rest of the brake lines and electrical harness off I hope. Not too bad so far but a lot of rust but curable! The girder from the harbour bridge may be getting some treatment in the next few days so wish me luck.
Not sure whether I am on the right page or is there a restoration section for series 2a vehicles? Haven't found a year of manufacture yet.
Regards
Paul

[Paul Davies]

Someone asked for some Champ pictures, These two are the first ones I restored and they are consecutive serial numbers WNI16000 AND WNI16001. I sold 16001 a number of years ago and the guy who bought it gave me the series 11 I am restoring now. I also did a resto on a Morris C8. I also restored the Australian number 5 trailer in the picture which was pretty cactus.
Paul

[1950landy]

Hi all and some pictures for you all to dwell over, hasn't been the easiest vehicle I have ever stripped but I am getting there. Hope they all the pictures come up and tomorrow I will be taking the rest of the brake lines and electrical harness off I hope. Not too bad so far but a lot of rust but curable! The girder from the harbour bridge may be getting some treatment in the next few days so wish me luck.
Not sure whether I am on the right page or is there a restoration section for series 2a vehicles? Haven't found a year of manufacture yet.
Regards
Paul
When you remove the wiring from the chassis make sure you attach a pull wire to it so when installing the new one you have something to pull it through with. And yes you are using the correct page for your restoration.

[Paul Davies]

Thanks for the tip with the wiring all good thanks, strip is progressing and have removed the portion of the harbour bridge at last I have no oxy so half dozen cutting disc's did the job. Still no idea why the thing was on there. I have a question for all on the body panels as they seem to have what I would describe as "dampening compound" on them, it looks like bog but it is quite thick in places. any ideas?
Paul169721

[Old Farang]

Just a guess about your "harbour bridge girder". It "may" have been the mounting for either a boom spray, or an air seeder, my best bet the former.
The extra mounting plate above the rear PTO "may" have been the mounting for a pump of some description, as the PTO appears to have been fitted with a sprocket for a chain drive. Added to that is the Heath Robinson towing jaws for attaching some form of trailing implement or perhaps a tank.

No idea about the crap on the inside of the panels.

[Cadas]

Is the bog on all panels including inside the cab or just on exterior panels?

On the ex farm truck I scrapped there was a mix of tar on some, but others were caked with dried on fertiliser or similar which formed a cream coloured layer over all underside panels.

[Paul Davies]

Hi guys and thanks for the info on the "Bog" or whatever seems to have been painted over so when I finish the chassis I will start the body panels and find out a bit more then, engine and gearboxes come out next then it's up to Bundaberg with the engine for a recon. I will then set about the chassis lots to do.

[Paul Davies]

Just a general enquiry in relation to buying parts in Australia, where is the best place? I am also having a problem removing the Steering relay out of the chassis, it does not want to budge no matter what I do to it. Any ideas!
Paul

[JDNSW]

Have a good read through both 2/2a and Series 3 forums, there are a number of sagas about removal of steering relays. The problem is a buildup of rust around the relay. Some have managed to remove them, some have overhauled the relay in situ, some have effectively cut out and replaced part of the chassis!

[Paul Davies]

Thanks John I was thinking of rebuilding the new parts in situ when they arrive, I have used heat and diesel plus a bigger hammer each time plus a threaded bar and steel blocks to try to draw the thing out. I am quite creative but this has stumped me, wouldn't have touched it but lower arm was welded to the splined shaft so a common problem.
Regards
Paul

[JDNSW]

Read the manual, no real problem overhauling in situ, just be careful of the spring tension. If the bottom arm is welded on, you will have to remove the guts out the bottom.

John

[gromit]

Tip some thin oil, WD 40 or similar around the relay and let it soak through.
The hole in the chassis is larger than the OD of the relay but the collar at the bottom is a tight fit. This means that road dirt enters easily at the top but can't get out the bottom !

I've been lucky so far, every one has been extracted just using crowbars and steel packers.

2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/125841-2a-gs-refurb-arn-178-334-a-post2854662.html#post2854662)

If the lower arm has been welded on it must have come loose at some point and the splines have been damaged.



Colin

[Paul Davies]

Thanks Colin I am turning the chassis over today so will get a better swing on the hammer after lubricating the bottom, yes the bottom arm was welded due to the splines on the relay stripping which sounds like a common problem. I have been quite surprised the only major issue looks like the rear Crossmember which is quite badly rusted so will need to source another, I took a photo of all the extra farming equipment that I have removed and the poor chassis must have breathed a huge sigh of relief. Just a quick question what is the best spark plug to use on the 2.25LTR Rover engine as I have been looking at various web sites on the issue and so many varieties to choose from and any favourites on Fan belt type?
Thanks
Paul

[JDNSW]

Spark plug depends on whether it is 7:1 or 8: com[ression, but these engines are not particuarly fussy about plugs, so do not expect any significant difference as long as it is the right heat range and length, projection.

[Paul Davies]

Thanks John will ask the guys at the engine restorers on Tuesday, is there a wiring diagram on this forum?
Paul

[JDNSW]

See 'shop" in the top of the page. The Rave CDs available here both help support the forum and have all the manuals which include wiring diagrams. The one you need is Series 2/2a.

[Paul Davies]

Hi all and the steering relay finally got the better of me, tried hitting it with a bigger hammer, heat extraction tool, 1/2" threaded bolt thru, 1" threaded bolt with heat which was drawing the bulkhead up as well which stopped me going any more. I have the new relay and decided against all advise from the manuals not to strip it but all safety precautions in place removed the inner shaft, split bushes and spring, they came out quite easily but on reflection should have put a couple of hose clamps around the split bushes. Had to move the dog out of the workshop just in case the spring decided to go walk-about and I have installed the bottom set of split bushes in the old outer casing of the relay and will develop this story as time allows. Apart from this, all is as you would expect with a few wins and a couple of set-backs.