More gremlins...

[Tins]

I suppose with what the car has been through it's to be expected. Today the car didn't repeat its MIL shut down thing, but first the SLS light came on. Car hasn't had SLS for around 8 years and a local indie used a Hawkeye I think to switch it off. It went away when restarted, but came back a bit later, and at the same time the dreaded flashing M+S lights also came on. Once again, it cleared on a restart. Parked the car for a couple of hours, so maybe still a bit warm. Then drove it about a K before the M+S lights again. Restarted, cleared. Drove about another K, went in somewhere for ten minutes, came out and started and they came on straight away, before I even put it into gear and they won't go away.
So, I guess I check the XYZ, which isn't perfectly adjusted as it won't start in neutral, the starter connections, the loom for chafing, and maybe a bigger battery...... Sigh. Anything else? Oh, and check fluid level, but it was full on Monday and there are no leaks...

Why the hell did I sell my Nanocom?????????

[maxperformance]

If you are Auto, I learnt hard in my previous Auto Td5 (it worked for me this way) that M+S light could be a stuck or dirty or loose Sport button, or interfering with gears movements. Try to clean and re seat that Sport Mode button first before anything else. Also do not press it accidentally when you start the car, this button only works right when you are in Drive mode, all other actions of gears will likely make it unhappy.

Don't buy a bigger battery, instead buying a good Digital Battery Health Tester/Checker that costs only $59 or so and can tell you what battery condition is for your whole lifetime of use. If your battery has anything more than 400CCA inside its juice, and more than 12V at stable then accessories should be happy and you'll be fine.

At least I found my Autel Pro Scanner can read loads of information or delete errors from my D2a. So you can try some scanners without Nanocom in many cases.
I suppose with what the car has been through it's to be expected. Today the car didn't repeat its MIL shut down thing, but first the SLS light came on. Car hasn't had SLS for around 8 years and a local indie used a Hawkeye I think to switch it off. It went away when restarted, but came back a bit later, and at the same time the dreaded flashing M+S lights also came on. Once again, it cleared on a restart. Parked the car for a couple of hours, so maybe still a bit warm. Then drove it about a K before the M+S lights again. Restarted, cleared. Drove about another K, went in somewhere for ten minutes, came out and started and they came on straight away, before I even put it into gear and they won't go away.
So, I guess I check the XYZ, which isn't perfectly adjusted as it won't start in neutral, the starter connections, the loom for chafing, and maybe a bigger battery...... Sigh. Anything else? Oh, and check fluid level, but it was full on Monday and there are no leaks...

Why the hell did I sell my Nanocom?????????

[Tins]

If you are Auto, I learnt hard in my previous Auto Td5 (it worked for me this way) that M+S light could be a stuck or dirty or loose Sport button, or interfering with gears movements. Try to clean and re seat that Sport Mode button first before anything else. Also do not press it accidentally when you start the car, this button only works right when you are in Drive mode, all other actions of gears will likely make it unhappy.

Don't buy a bigger battery, instead buying a good Digital Battery Health Tester/Checker that costs only $59 or so and can tell you what battery condition is for your whole lifetime of use. If your battery has anything more than 400CCA inside its juice, and more than 12V at stable then accessories should be happy and you'll be fine.

At least I found my Autel Pro Scanner can read loads of information or delete errors from my D2a. So you can try some scanners without Nanocom in many cases.

The Sport button isn't actually connected, as I want to do a couple of things before reinstalling the console properly.
I'll look into those scanners. Seems I was the only person near me that had a Nanocom.

[Tins]

Started it this morning, no M+S lights. Put the CDL in to drive it up onto the ramps. Now the trans temp light is on.... Hmm, maybe I got the wires crossed... Best find my light and have a look..

[Tins]

Started it this morning, no M+S lights. Put the CDL in to drive it up onto the ramps. Now the trans temp light is on.... Hmm, maybe I got the wires crossed... Best find my light and have a look..

Yep.

[Tins]

Hmm. My car apparently had a Jag CPS. Nothing wrong with that. Fit's the same, but has a pigtail for the plug. Wiring got broken... So, Donor car had a LR CPS, but I bought a SH one on a trip down to Geelong just in case. Fitted one or the other, dunno. Anyway, the gremlins were getting worse and worse, MIL on, tacho erratic. Sierrafery posted that only two things 'officially' trigger the MIL, that being the CPS or the TPS. So, out with one CPS, in with the other. Hey presto, all those issues have disappeared. Car is getting better every day. Oh, I am touching my wooden desk as I type this.

[cripesamighty]

It's a Land Rover. Definitely the wooden desk...
[bigwhistle] :wasntme:

[Tins]

It's a Land Rover. Definitely the wooden desk...
[bigwhistle] :wasntme:

I actually went and touched my 200 YO english oak table for that one.