Starter motors

[Rovernaut]

What the go are there different types of starter motors used in 3.9 litre EFI Disco series 1.
My starter starts but it appears the solenoid is still make it spin on after it disengages.
I did a search on starters and found Bosch make one, then there is the Magneti Marelli and a presolite one.
I contacted Karcraft and the gave me a price of $707 for a bosch one, and $295 for a Magneti Marelli.
Graeme Cooper has Marelli for $320 and one called Preslite for $204.
Not having taken mine out, what brand is the OEM ones???
Just seems to be a large variation on prices

[4bee]

A good Auto Sparks should be able to sort it at far less cost. Certainly be worth a shot, Rn.


According to the WM, it's a Bosch 0. 001. 362. 092

[walker]

The Bosch starter is meant to be a lot better but I went for the Marelli just because of the price. Maybe speak with Adrian at Rangie Automotive, he usually has pretty good prices and will let you know any differences between the brands.

[Rovernaut]

thanx guys

[PhilipA]

AFAIK a series 1 Disco would have a Magneto Marelli ( AKA Joseph Lucas) standard, same as 3.9 Rangie. Although there are a few variations of series 1 Disco depending on year.
Starter motors seem to be the only good Thing Lucas ever made so I would stick with it.
The cheap ones apparently do not keep water out as well as the MM.
Regards Philip A

[loanrangie]

I have had 2 lucas starters rebuilt in the last 12 years and the most it cost me was $120, mostly just a new solenoid and a quick cleanup of the armature and new brushes is the worst damage.

[Ralf_the_RR]

I refurbished a Lucas M45 about 2 years ago.
A bit of emery on the comutator, and a new set of brushes - $24.
Everything else seemed to be OK, and is still going strong.

[p38arover]

I've refurbished one as well, I put it in the lathe and skimmed the very worn commutator, gave it a clean and it soldiered on for the next year or so until after I sold the RR.

Ron

[JDNSW]

There seems to be a tendency to "repair by replacing" not only starters, but many other components as well that in reality only need minor repairs.
While starters can be damaged beyond economical repair, this is quite unusual, and mostly only minor repairs are required, usually quite cheap for parts - although some parts can be ridiculously expensive for what they are. For example the Nippon-Denso starter on my County a contact set for the solenoid costs around $30 - for two small pieces of bent copper.

While repair by replacement may be justified if you need to avoid down time, for most people it is not necessary, but results from getting advice from people who sell bits not those who repair them. (there are a lot more auto parts salesmen than there are auto electricians)
John

[Rovernaut]

As some of you said, it's probably a simple repair, as it's only the spin on.
It was down time I waas concerned about.
Also from what I gather they are a p-r-i-c-k to to remove, something about a particulat 'Allen key ' headed boat thats hard to reach?
I do most major maitenance myself, but had it in to a shop recently and have spent $1K, but I can't keep affording to pay someone to do stuff.

[p38arover]

As some of you said, it's probably a simple repair, as it's only the spin on.
It was down time I waas concerned about.
Also from what I gather they are a p-r-i-c-k to to remove, something about a particulat 'Allen key ' headed boat thats hard to reach?
I do most major maitenance myself, but had it in to a shop recently and have spent $1K, but I can't keep affording to pay someone to do stuff.

Removal ain't that bad. The trick is in using the right tools.

Yes, you will need an allen key on a l-o-o-o-ng extension to get to the top bolt. The last time it did one, I used an extension about 600mm long and the ratchet handle was forward of the front axle.

30 mins should see it out.

Whatever you do, don't wreck the allen head cap screw or you'll never get it out.

Ron

[4bee]

Ron, do you recall the size of the Allen Key so one could be made up?

[4bee]

Ta ever so.:)

[p38arover]

I use a set of commercial allen key sockets like these:

http://www.sell-it-easy.de/shop_e/query.php?cp_sid=3938099c0505&cp_pid=123010007&cp_cat=149&cp_tpl=5504_149

But you could just cut the "L" off a standard allen key and use a socket to fit.

Ron

[rangieman]

I use a set of commercial allen key sockets like these:

http://www.sell-it-easy.de/shop_e/query.php?cp_sid=3938099c0505&cp_pid=123010007&cp_cat=149&cp_tpl=5504_149

But you could just cut the "L" off a standard allen key and use a socket to fit.

Ron

i have done as ron quotes about cutting a allen key and using a socket on the end of it it works quite well

[Ralf_the_RR]

Gee, sounds familiar.

I spent about an hour undoing the top bolt when I did mine.
(poofteenth of a turn each time)

It wasn't till I got it out that I noticed it had a slot (screwdriver), and took all of 30 secs to install (with the longest screwdriver I had).

[p38arover]

Gee, sounds familiar.

I spent about an hour undoing the top bolt when I did mine.
(poofteenth of a turn each time)

That's the reason for the very long extension - to be able to get some throw on the ratchet. A 3/8" drive extension is a bit flexible in torsion. I used one with the wobble end that gives a bit of angle drive rather than needing a straight line to the cap screw.


It wasn't till I got it out that I noticed it had a slot (screwdriver), and took all of 30 secs to install (with the longest screwdriver I had).

Mine didn't on either my '86 or '95 cars. Maybe it was an addition by a previous mechanic.

Ron