Help to identify the year of my 11a

[Graeme B]

Hi I recently acquired this Landy, it had the flat bed installed in 2013 . Not sure when the Holden 202 went in. I am keen to identify or narrow down the year she was made. I have the chassis # but believe there is no indication on this as to the year?? (Only the series and suffix)?
#25305163B.
The rest of the running gear is original along with the cab ,guards and interior.
She has held up well for being some 50 years +.

[Dgd69]

Hi I recently acquired this Landy, it had the flat bed installed in 2013 . Not sure when the Holden 202 went in. I am keen to identify or narrow down the year she was made. I have the chassis # but believe there is no indication on this as to the year?? (Only the series and suffix)?
#25305163B.
The rest of the running gear is original along with the cab ,guards and interior.
She has held up well for being some 50 years +.

Hi great looking landy just pop your chassis number into Calvin to give you a ruff year

CalVIN, the Land Rover VIN CALculator

[Slunnie]

Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
Body type: Basic
Wheel base: 109in
Engine: petrol
Model years: 1962-1971
Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)
Serial number: 05163
Design: One significant design modification
Suffix used from March 1963 till April 1966


Is that a build plate or something in front of the brake master cylinder? I wouldn't have expected that on a IIA.

[JDNSW]

I think it is a modification plate, presumably for the engine.

The data given above by Calvin looks accurate from other clues. Note that the dates gien by Calvin are likely to be slightly inaccurate for Australia, if you are after the date they were sold (Calvin date is when the CKD kit was made, not when it was assembled in Australia and sold). Also, as local content increased in this period, changes often lagged well behind UK production, and a few unique Australian bits began to appear.

[Red90]

1963

Land Rover FAQ: Series, Production Data: 25300000 (https://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.chassis_numbering.253.html)

You can get detailed information from the British Motor Museum.

[Graeme B]

Thanks guys great info and advice,

The plate on the inner guard in front of the break booster, is a new re vin plate, noting all the vechil details, this was necessary as the original registration had lapsed and new plates had to be issued for road use. That was done in 1994.
She has spent her life on large remote farms in south island NZ.

I got the clutch sorted yesterday ( rebuild master and new flexible hose) so had a good run in it today [smilebigeye] all is well, it's certainly a symphony of gears meshing together, but she laughed at some pretty rough and steep off road. 169512169513
There was a bit of solid knocks going on some where in the front chassis near drivers feet, that I have to explore.... I'm thinking possibly shackell bushes or possibly in the steering, though you don't feel it through the wheel.
Any suggestions would be welcomed.
Thanks again.

[grey_ghost]

Hi,

In relation to the knocking - I would suggest:

* Check the chassis bushes ?
* Check the spring bushes ?
* Check the spring clamps ?
* As you say - check the shocks.
* It's not something like a lose bump stop?

Cheers,
GG.

[1950landy]

On the S1's the spring hangers are adjustable to take side movement out , not sure if it is same on S2's . The springs can knock if there is any side movement between shackle bushes & hangers.

[gromit]

On the S1's the spring hangers are adjustable to take side movement out , not sure if it is same on S2's . The springs can knock if there is any side movement between shackle bushes & hangers.

I've had a bush loose in the spring eye which made a hell of a thump on cornering as the spring hit the spring hanger. Ended up fitting a polybush (which I'm not a fan of) because the side flanges stopped the spring shifting sideways.
Eventually swapped the spring but it's worth noting that lubricating conventional spring bushes when replacing can cause problems.


Colin

[JDNSW]

On the S1's the spring hangers are adjustable to take side movement out , not sure if it is same on S2's . The springs can knock if there is any side movement between shackle bushes & hangers.

On all Series Landrovers the inner tube of the bushes MUST be clamped tightly between the two side plates of the shackle. Failure to have this will result in the shackle bush side plates wearing grooves that will prevent this clamping (the plates can be reversed so you get two chances) and in a very short time this inner tube will wear through, followed by the rubber bush, and then you are really in strife.

Similarly, the outer sleeve should be a press fit in the spring eye or chassis. If this is moving, it is not quite as bad a situation, but is a bit harder to deal with. In the past, I have used a sleeve cut from a jam tin with some success. If left unfixed, it will eventually lead to major chassis work (cut out and replace the tube) and in any case, if the bush moves freely in either the chassis or the spring, the vehicle is unroadworthy as this will cause wandering steering.

[Graeme B]

Hi guys, I dropped the right spring off today,

What I've seen so far is, there was sideways movement in the spring between the front chassis plates, probably a couple of mm which produced a great knock when moving by hand. The 9/16 bolt was also worn down in the area of the Bush .. and shows a definite step up to where the chassis plates are. So I'll replace this bolt.
The springs don't seem to old say 5 years, and both Bushes are fairly new and tight in the spring.
The rear shackle bottom bolt is not worn at all....but atm I was unable to rotate or remove the top chassis shackle bolt, I ran out of time today but not sure what's going on there???

When I get to resemble I'm thinking to pack the play between the spring and front hanger with a couple of washers... b4 bolting the Bush up tight as John recommended .

Cheers.