Dual battery box front front corner

[RRT]

Although I had the firewall battery box, was loath to use it and some time ago had done a search for a double front drivers side one. Finally found one but had been out of stock, this morning got an email it was back in stock

169880

At $90 US + shipping, seems great value. No idea how many are available but they are available

Optima Dual Battery Box, Widthwise (https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=OPT-WID)

[p38arover]

Marketplace Alerts?

[Jazzman]

Hi all, if you're after a dual battery box for Optima batteries specifically built for your D2 than you can purchase them locally and they're built locally. I happen to know this because I supply then to the retailer. We actually exported 40% of the last batch to the USA.
Currently sold out, but if you are prepared to do a group buy I'll organise a discount code with Qikazz and get some laser cut.

Disco Solutions Land Rover Discovery 2 & 2a Dual Battery Box | QIKAZZ 4x4 & Camping (https://www.4x4andcamping.com.au/products/disco-solutions-land-rover-discovery-2-2a-dual-battery-box?_pos=3&_sid=23395a65f&_ss=r)

[AK83]

Although I had the firewall battery box, was loath to use it and some time ago had done a search for a double front drivers side one. Finally found one but had been out of stock, this morning got an email it was back in stock

......

Do note that this is not D2 specific.
It's just a generic 'cradle' to hold two optima D34 sized batteries.

Just a fleeting glance, it will require a fair bit of redesign/additional work to make it fit the D2's front drivers corner.
There are no mounting legs, which are different heights, there is nowhere to mount the ECU for a TD5(if that's what you got, but not a problem on a V8).

As the linked website is a US .com location, I'd say the $90 is in US.
Add in freight, and $ conversion .. plus the additional work to fit into a D2 .. you'd be better off going with Jazzman's unit.

Having designed and welded up a flat bar frame unit for bro's D2 myself, it's not a hard task, but time consuming to do so yourself, if you're not an engineer type, that does this stuff regularly(ie. myself).
At the time I was off work, so had plenty of time to stuff about bending/heating/welding/grinding/cutting/measuring/welding again/scrapping it all and starting over! [biggrin]

Of the two products for twin batteries in the original single batt location for the D2 .. I'd recommend to go with Jazzmans linked product for the sake of surety.

[Jazzman]

Thanks AK83. I appreciate the good wrap ;)

[Tins]

Thanks AK83. I appreciate the good wrap ;)

It looks good. I got mine from a member, Carl, who seems to have vanished. Quite similar.

My car has the ARB battery shelf right next to the turbo. Can't imagine what they were thinking putting it there. I considered mounting a compressor on it, but last time I looked there were no asbestos compressors.

[onebob]

It looks good. I got mine from a member, Carl, who seems to have vanished. Quite similar.

My car has the ARB battery shelf right next to the turbo. Can't imagine what they were thinking putting it there. I considered mounting a compressor on it, but last time I looked there were no asbestos compressors.

My “non asbestos” and I stress... “fully functional” compressor has lived on an ARB battery shelf for 8 years. People’s concerns about mounting them there is unfounded in my experience.
...just saying.[emoji52]

[AK83]

.... People’s concerns about mounting them there is unfounded in my experience.
...just saying.[emoji52]

Yet, some experience overheating issues with it placed there(or near there).
Brothers is not quite on a shelf in that same posi, but close enough .. which is far too close to the heat pump .. oops! ... I mean turbo.

It's not always a problem, but when it is, it is not a good one.
After about 2 hrs of slow trail driving, in approx 25°C ambient, compressor is pretty much unusable unless bonnet is opened and engine bay allowed to cool a bit .. oops again! .. I mean a lot [biggrin]

Trail was mainly downhill, so engine wasn't worked too hard, other than engine braking, but it wasn't running excessively warm in any way.
I had a tyre failure, and was easier to hook up a single hose to his compressor rather than me pull out my cheapo ebay type baby compressor hook it up to battery, connect hose .. etc.

Wrong!
His on board ARB compressor, fitted by a previous owner for the diff locks, ran for about 30 sec and shut down. Once allowed to cool for about 30 sec it would run again. This cycle repeated for about 5 mins, when I realised that it's too close to the turbo, quick hand temp guide would have had it over 65°C on the motor body .. too hot to touch for more than say 5-10sec, so in the end it was quicker for me to set my piddly ebay special up and run it for a couple of mins to get tyre back up from about 18 to 25 or so psi.

Once camp was reached TD5 allowed to cool down a lot, compressor was run again out of curiosity, and ran non stop inflating a totally deflated tyre in about 5 mins. So nothing wrong with compressor other than over-temp forced it to shut down even tho it wasn't hot due to usage.

Actually the main lesson I learned from this occurrence is that I prefer an onboard compressor(in my D1) fitted to the ABS block area(mine doesn't have ABS [thumbsupbig]) and even tho it will be further from the turbo than brothers TD5 D2 .. I'll still make a better heat shield for it too(maybe a tank too).

In relation to bro's current setup, I found an old turbo blanket I may try to fit to his turbo one day and see if that helps his situation a bit.

[RRT]

Hi all, if you're after a dual battery box for Optima batteries specifically built for your D2 than you can purchase them locally and they're built locally. I happen to know this because I supply then to the retailer. We actually exported 40% of the last batch to the USA.
Currently sold out, but if you are prepared to do a group buy I'll organise a discount code with Qikazz and get some laser cut.

Disco Solutions Land Rover Discovery 2 & 2a Dual Battery Box | QIKAZZ 4x4 & Camping (https://www.4x4andcamping.com.au/products/disco-solutions-land-rover-discovery-2-2a-dual-battery-box?_pos=3&_sid=23395a65f&_ss=r)

Would have purchased these if available! Liked them as they do not require any further work, but as had put an enquiry in back before Christmas (and a few others I might add)... Much prefer to buy locally but how long do you wait? The extra work is noted, price line ball as to retail versus delivered and the fitting of the ECU to the back of it welding on a plate only to the upright, as to fitting size, two optimas are two optimas irrespective as to fitting in the space.

Had a similar issue with rock sliders which were from a member, in this case had put emails and pm and then texts but no reply so went with the Rocky Road sliders from the states which might be overkill being hitch steel and 150lbs (shipping details) - still waiting for delivery I might add.

So Jazzman would recommend yours and a group buy will make me a little sad but others very happy I am sure!!!

[Tins]

My “non asbestos” and I stress... “fully functional” compressor has lived on an ARB battery shelf for 8 years. People’s concerns about mounting them there is unfounded in my experience.
...just saying.[emoji52]

Hmm.. my experience was the label on the second battery blistered, which was enough for me to choose to move it. The actual battery shelf becomes almost too hot to touch. I won't be mounting a compressor there without extra shielding. Glad you are happy with yours.

[RRT]

Yet, some experience overheating issues with it placed there(or near there).
Brothers is not quite on a shelf in that same posi, but close enough .. which is far too close to the heat pump .. oops! ... I mean turbo.

It's not always a problem, but when it is, it is not a good one.
After about 2 hrs of slow trail driving, in approx 25°C ambient, compressor is pretty much unusable unless bonnet is opened and engine bay allowed to cool a bit .. oops again! .. I mean a lot [biggrin]

Trail was mainly downhill, so engine wasn't worked too hard, other than engine braking, but it wasn't running excessively warm in any way.
I had a tyre failure, and was easier to hook up a single hose to his compressor rather than me pull out my cheapo ebay type baby compressor hook it up to battery, connect hose .. etc.


In relation to bro's current setup, I found an old turbo blanket I may try to fit to his turbo one day and see if that helps his situation a bit.


Sure I posted a link to a product, which I will look up now, - ahhh the aluminum heat shield, this looks ideal for it. Wrap around the exhaust and one around the compressor may keep it cool enough. Would probably like a vent in the bonnet as well above the compressor but this may be the easy fit solution. Maybe now I don't have a useless bent piece of sheet steel on the shelf!

Aluminium Heat Shield - Quality Materials to Keep Your Ride Cool (https://www.carbuilders.com.au/aluminium-embossed-heat-shield)

[Tins]

Aluminium Heat Shield - Quality Materials to Keep Your Ride Cool (https://www.carbuilders.com.au/aluminium-embossed-heat-shield)

Thanks! They are only 15 minutes from me.

[onebob]

Hmm.. my experience was the label on the second battery blistered, which was enough for me to choose to move it. The actual battery shelf becomes almost too hot to touch. I won't be mounting a compressor there without extra shielding. Glad you are happy with yours.

Yup! very happy[emoji846]
I have the ARB battery shelf, bought new and it included a very substantial heavy gauge heat shield / battery hold down clamp in the box which I installed for heat shielding. The compressor is the little ARB one used for air lockers but mine is for operating my air ram CDL actuator, and for tyre inflation. Clean climate controlled air for the compressor is drawn from the vehicle interior, not from the engine compartment, and the air intake disc filter is tucked up out of sight beside the glovebox side wall, and right below the passenger side vent duct. When in low range with the centre diff locked the compressor cycles regularly to maintain pressure for the CDL air ram. It’ll operate this way for hours on end.
No air means no CDL in my setup - it’s never failed and I run without a turbo heat shield having chosen not to replace it when I took it off to repair it. The compressor has been installed +8 years now and shows no signs of heat stress.

[Tins]

Yup! very happy[emoji846]
I have the ARB battery shelf, bought new and it included a very substantial heavy gauge heat shield / battery hold down clamp in the box which I installed for heat shielding. The compressor is the little ARB one used for air lockers but mine is for operating my air ram CDL actuator, and for tyre inflation. Clean climate controlled air for the compressor is drawn from the vehicle interior, not from the engine compartment, and the air intake disc filter is tucked up out of sight beside the glovebox side wall, and right below the passenger side vent duct. When in low range with the centre diff locked the compressor cycles regularly to maintain pressure for the CDL air ram. It’ll operate this way for hours on end.
No air means no CDL in my setup - it’s never failed and I run without a turbo heat shield having chosen not to replace it when I took it off to repair it. The compressor has been installed +8 years now and shows no signs of heat stress.

Hmm.. Mine had the ARB shelf when I bought it. Good clamp but not a heat shield in sight. Perhaps it was an earlier version. I believe it was installed at original purchase, 2000. Or perhaps he lost it..

I'd be interested in hearing more about the air op CDL.

[onebob]

Hmm.. Mine had the ARB shelf when I bought it. Good clamp but not a heat shield in sight. Perhaps it was an earlier version. I believe it was installed at original purchase, 2000. Or perhaps he lost it..

I'd be interested in hearing more about the air op CDL.

We’re drifting off topic but if you search on youtube for “cmm cdl air shifter” you’ll find after all these years that there’s still two vids online. I got it from Campbell Crawlers in UTAH, USA.

Here’s some pics of mine.... it is a simple single action air ram to which I added a 9lb pull helper spring to assit the internal return spring. I had a double action ram put aside to replace the single action one but it really will not improve the basic function and will require another solenoid and a re configure of the activation switching and nothing to be gained by it.
It took no more 30 mins to install the hardware on the transfer case, and working from under the D2. No pulling out the interior out of the D2 to install the mechanical lever conversions. And best of all when going bush, no wrenching on the selector lever to force recalcitrant engagement / disengagement of the CDL. There were naysayers though ie - “I wouldn’t trust that - give me levers, linkages and cables, they wont fail” but they do !!, and there’s one the reason why heavy transport vehicles use pneumatic controls.
Ask a road train driver [emoji6]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210401/e22d17ece1f9cea45dddee86adbaf3c6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210401/c764b270a686586e45514e1b9c43c294.jpg

[Tins]

Off topic is normal here, just ask Homestar.

I have here, in a box, a CDL shifter based on a wiper motor. It worked, but it wouldn't be a patch on that. If you are going to have two air lockers, why not make it three?

Thanks for the pics etc.

[onebob]

Off topic is normal here, just ask Homestar.

I have here, in a box, a CDL shifter based on a wiper motor. It worked, but it wouldn't be a patch on that. If you are going to have two air lockers, why not make it three?

Thanks for the pics etc.

Ha! ... way back then... I contacted the mob ( no names no pack drill[emoji6]) who where selling those wiper motor thingys and they said they weren’t doing them anymore and D1 levers if you could get one were going for $700+++ [emoji37] so I looked for alternatives..

[Tins]

Ha! ... way back then... I contacted the mob ( no names no pack drill[emoji6]) who where selling those wiper motor thingys and they said they weren’t doing them anymore and D1 levers if you could get one were going for $700+++ [emoji37] so I looked for alternatives..

I know who you mean..

My D2 has a lever and cable setup originally fitted by R*******s at time of new purchase. It works fine, but the two lever thing can be confusing in tight moments.

I also have a D1 lever setup[bigwhistle] cost me ten quid from picka....

[Tins]

Ask a road train driver [emoji6]

Until he blows a Suzi line....

[onebob]

We’re drifting off topic but if you search on youtube for “cmm cdl air shifter” you’ll find after all these years that there’s still two vids online. I got it from Campbell Crawlers in UTAH, USA.

Here’s some pics of mine.... it is a simple single action air ram to which I added a 9lb pull helper spring to assit the internal return spring. I had a double action ram put aside to replace the single action one but it really will not improve the basic function and will require another solenoid and a re configure of the activation switching and nothing to be gained by it.
It took no more 30 mins to install the hardware on the transfer case, and working from under the D2. No pulling out the interior out of the D2 to install the mechanical lever conversions. And best of all when going bush, no wrenching on the selector lever to force recalcitrant engagement / disengagement of the CDL. There were naysayers though ie - “I wouldn’t trust that - give me levers, linkages and cables, they wont fail” but they do !!, and there’s one the reason why heavy transport vehicles use pneumatic controls.
Ask a road train driver [emoji6]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210401/e22d17ece1f9cea45dddee86adbaf3c6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210401/c764b270a686586e45514e1b9c43c294.jpg

.....here's 2 vids of how it works:-
when first installed

https://youtu.be/NJrYZmzuFCs
and after SLABS upgrade

https://youtu.be/z4olVHd03SM

[Tins]

Vid freezes my browser for some reason. I'll try again tomorrow after it's had a sleep.

[Tins]

Thanks. That vid shows it pretty well. Why didn't the chimes work in the first place?

[Tins]

Ok, back to the battery box... The one I have was designed primarily for the Optima D34s. I do not want to go that route again. Anyone recommend a similar size batt that would be a better choice? Bunging the two next two each other seemed like a good idea back then...now, not so much. The car isn't going to be doing a lot of extended touring, if any. At most a week, with power requirements for a solo person.

[drivesafe]

Hi Tins, try these.

SSB HVT50D

This is a 60Ah cranking/deep cycle battery.

It is a fraction higher than the Yellowtop but otherwise the same size.

[onebob]

Thanks. That vid shows it pretty well. Why didn't the chimes work in the first place?

Basically, the pre facelift D2s came out of the factory without a driver selectable CDL, therefore no chimes required. The early ones still had the internal bits in the transfer cases later ones didn’t. I have a 1999 build Discovery.

[Tins]

Basically, the pre facelift D2s came out of the factory without a driver selectable CDL, therefore no chimes required. The early ones still had the internal bits in the transfer cases later ones didn’t. I have a 1999 build Discovery.

Mine is a 2000. It doesn't chime for CDL engagement, but it does for a number of other things. HDC, SLS ( even though SLS is no longer fitted and the BCU knows this...).



The early ones still had the internal bits in the transfer cases later ones didn’t

BTW, I know this.. I like that I still have TC, and CDL as well, but I can disable the electronic nanny when I want to.

[PhilipA]

The ARB battery tray had a heat shield/battery hold down to suit AFAIR a 40AH Exide battery. The end shield held down the battery at the bottom.

I have modified mine to accept a 750CCA XDINHDMF to replace a Optima Yellow top which lasted 3 years but still holds 12.6-7 volts. I use that battery as my starting battery with a 120AH AGM in the original battery position.

I have made a heat shield from stainless steel also covered with reflective tape .

I have also polished my turbo heat shield.

So far no problems with the wet battery after about 6-8 months. It has a 3 year warranty so if it lasts that long I will be happy as at $200 from Bunnings much cheaper than an Optima and stronger in reserve capacity.
Regards PhilipA

[onebob]

I have also polished my turbo heat shield.

Regards PhilipA

....you polished the inside to reflect the heat back onto the turbo I expect.

[PhilipA]

....you polished the inside to reflect the heat back onto the turbo I expect.

Yes of course and it came up Beyutiful.
Regards PhilipA

[onebob]

Yes of course and it came up Beyutiful.
Regards PhilipA

[emoji6][emoji1417]