Tailgate release switch failure, replacement options?

[wiggy781]

While down on the beach at Yeagarup the tailgate release switch failed (between the number plate light) - my heart sank initially as I thought it was the dreaded actuator failure, I have had the spare actuator and mechanical cable release parts on the workbench for at least six months!! Anyhow was able to open the tailgate remotely using the key fob.

Just called the local stealer, LR do not sell the switch and wiring - I would need to purchase the complete assembly including lamps, $400 +

I have seen aftermarket switches complete with wiring on evilbay for $30 out of China. Anyone any experience with this or can suggest any other options / suppliers?

Cheers,

[Ferret]

While down on the beach at Yeagarup the tailgate release switch failed (between the number plate light) - my heart sank initially as I thought it was the dreaded actuator failure, I have had the spare actuator and mechanical cable release parts on the workbench for at least six months!! Anyhow was able to open the tailgate remotely using the key fob.

Just called the local stealer, LR do not sell the switch and wiring - I would need to purchase the complete assembly including lamps, $400 +

I have seen aftermarket switches complete with wiring on evilbay for $30 out of China. Anyone any experience with this or can suggest any other options / suppliers?

Cheers,

I have tried two approaches.

1) Directly replacing the microswitch in the unit with one I bought from Jaycar. Cost 99c (I think). Need to drill a hole next to the failed microswitch to glue a new one in then cut the wires off the failed switch and wire up the new switch.

2) Using a eBay el cheapo which supposedly fit a Freelander. cost ~$25 (I think). The wiring harness itself is incompatible with the D4 but the switch mechanism is identical to that of the D4 so just cut it from the harness and wired it in.

Both work fine if your OK with cutting wire and soldering.

Edit: just looked at your photo. You have broken the tabs that hold the switch mechanism in so you will need to replace the mechanism unit rather than just replace the microswitch.

[Tombie]

Rear Tailgate Door Release Handle Switch Fit for Land Rover Discovery 3 & 4 SL | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313166949759)

[BradC]

I have seen aftermarket switches complete with wiring on evilbay for $30 out of China.

I did one of these on the D3 back in 2019. Just checked the receipt and it was $39.99AUD all-in. Mine just came with tails, so I clipped the old wiring, then solder and glue-lined heatshrink.

I destroyed the original getting it out. I couldn't get the handle off, so there was a bit of keyhole surgery required in the joining, but the new one just "snapped" in and it has been great since.

Found it : Land Rover Discovery 3/4, LR3/LR4 - tailgate boot trunk handle switch repair kit | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-3-4-LR3-LR4-tailgate-boot-trunk-handle-switch-repair-kit/392356655895)

I'm sure they're all much of a muchness.

[wiggy781]

Thanks guys for the guidance, I have purchased off evilBay for $27 delivered...now need to practise my soldering skills. Cheers all.

[LRD414]

I bought the Ford Focus part that’s the same (except for the wiring harness) for $18.

Car Boot Tailgate Opener Release Control Fit Ford Focus MK2 04-08 3M51-19B514-AC

Cheers,
Scott

[BradC]

I bought the Ford Focus part that’s the same (except for the wiring harness) for $18.

Nice. It's $20.99 now. I just noticed the rubber is starting to perish in the corners from my E-bay special, so I'll order one of those and put it in the parts box.

[wiggy781]

Car Boot Tailgate Opener Release Control Fit Ford Focus MK2 04-08 3M51-19B514-AC


Thanks Scott, ordered from EvilBay $19 delivered. Now have two on order ..one to fit, one spare.

[LRD414]

..... order one of those and put it in the parts box.
Exactly what I did. My original is still fine but do t want to be caught short unable to get in tailgate. So I have one of these switches now and a manual release cable attached to the lock so as to cover the two known or common failure points.

Cheers,
Scott

[DiscoJeffster]

Exactly what I did. My original is still fine but do t want to be caught short unable to get in tailgate. So I have one of these switches now and a manual release cable attached to the lock so as to cover the two known or common failure points.

Cheers,
Scott

Switch failure can be covered off temporarily via the remote control button until a new one arrives?

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

While down on the beach at Yeagarup the tailgate release switch failed (between the number plate light) - my heart sank initially as I thought it was the dreaded actuator failure, I have had the spare actuator and mechanical cable release parts on the workbench for at least six months!! Anyhow was able to open the tailgate remotely using the key fob.

Just called the local stealer, LR do not sell the switch and wiring - I would need to purchase the complete assembly including lamps, $400 +

I have seen aftermarket switches complete with wiring on evilbay for $30 out of China. Anyone any experience with this or can suggest any other options / suppliers?

Cheers,

Ha - classic - the exact same fault has just occurred on mine (2010 D4).
Went through the process of trying to source a new part (for switch plus complete loom, I was quoted $180 from British Offroad and $240 from another LR parts supplier).

So, have also just ordered a $27 part from ebay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Tailgate-Door-Release-Handle-Switch-Fit-for-Land-Rover-Discovery-3-4-SL/313166949759'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)- got the D4 switch plus loom for $31, but plan to just replace the switch/handle by cutting and soldering the wires. And I'll have a spare loom if needed!

Keen to see how these all go - if there's a better eBay part/option (or all of the same quality). Mines on the way...

Rob

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Ha - classic - the exact same fault has just occurred on mine (2010 D4).
Went through the process of trying to source a new part (for switch plus complete loom, I was quoted $180 from British Offroad and $240 from another LR parts supplier).

So, have also just ordered a $27 part from ebay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Tailgate-Door-Release-Handle-Switch-Fit-for-Land-Rover-Discovery-3-4-SL/313166949759'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)- got the D4 switch plus loom for $31, but plan to just replace the switch/handle by cutting and soldering the wires. And I'll have a spare loom if needed!

Keen to see how these all go - if there's a better eBay part/option (or all of the same quality). Mines on the way...

Rob

So, part 1 of this exercise - cut my old handle/switch out yesterday (the 2 black wires), and tried soldering the new one in (that I had cut out of my complete handle + loom that I got from eBay).
The wires were in pretty poor condition, and turns out one of them is completely corroded back into the door where I can't get to the wires.
Got some solder to hold, but then pulled on it and the whole wire just broke further down (badly corroded copper wire).

So, part 2 is yet to be done - have to remove the rear door handle and install my new wiring loom completely - after soldering my new switch/handle back into the loom!
Will keep this post updated. Such a simple thing... [bigsad]

[DazzaTD5]

Just called the local stealer, LR do not sell the switch and wiring - I would need to purchase the complete assembly including lamps, $400 +



All the dealer BS aside, JLR do sell a genuine switch with plugs, LR071910.
I think with a factory camera on the upper handle the part number is LR071911
As noted the wires become very brittle/corroded and can be hard to wire in just a micro switch, hence why I replace the switch assembly.

The other 2 parts for the tailgate are:
LR017470 - lower tailgate latch
FUG500010 - lower tailgate actuator

Also if the actuator is failing or failed it can cause the software to I guess lock it out and it needs to be re-initialised. I cant remember exactly.

[wiggy781]

Brittle wires greeted me too! Will need to remove the complete switch assembly me thinks, I have the proper disco switch complete with the lamp plugs. Question is where do I disconnect the camera wire, at the camera end or maybe at the blue connector per the pic below?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210423/a5a557e690fc437248946d7f4935c5f6.jpg

[wiggy781]

Job done...separated camera wire at blue colour connector. Very tight from a wire length perspective, the evil bay AM switch had the lamp wires equal length left and right where as the OEM was longer one side. The thin wires to the hatch release button have little slack in them, sure it would last longer with less strain on such thin wire. Another 25mm of wire all round would help for sure.

I have got into the habit of releasing the hatch with the key fob (but doesn't work with engine running) so the switch will probs last a long time!!

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

So, part 1 of this exercise - cut my old handle/switch out yesterday (the 2 black wires), and tried soldering the new one in (that I had cut out of my complete handle + loom that I got from eBay).
The wires were in pretty poor condition, and turns out one of them is completely corroded back into the door where I can't get to the wires.
Got some solder to hold, but then pulled on it and the whole wire just broke further down (badly corroded copper wire).

So, part 2 is yet to be done - have to remove the rear door handle and install my new wiring loom completely - after soldering my new switch/handle back into the loom!
Will keep this post updated. Such a simple thing... [bigsad]

Just to finish this one off... The switch wiring was fairly corroded, so it was good to replace the whole loom.

Pulled the top rear tailgate door handle off the car - thanks to a youtube video, it was fairly straight-forward, once you know where the plastic clips and other parts are.

Replaced the old loom with my new $30 eBay part (which looked fairly good quality, and was an exact replica in terms of connectors, wire length etc).
Noticed one of the number plate lights was out, so did that whilst I was in there.
And put it all back together. Worked like a charm, and it's great to have the door handle working again!

So, the eBay part (so previous comment on this thread) looks like the goods!

Rob

[Jeffoir]

Yes, this happened to me today in the D4.

I replaced the switch in our D3 about 7 years ago. At the time, I recall that the removal of the handpiece was a destructive exercise. The plastic clips break off, rendering trying to service the microswitch irrelevant.

I enquired about spares today. For the D4, Land Rover only supply it as part of the whole assembly including numberplate lights etc. Quoted $538, which is way too expensive.

In the meantime, the tailgate will open, when pressing Keyfob and activating the hand switch at the tailgate, simultaneously.

Thank you Scott for the Ford Focus suggestion. Jefferson Ford said that the Focus Part is now obsolete from Ford. No longer stocked.

I have ordered a Discovery Mk3 / Mk4 (sic) tailgate switch from eBay at the Link that Tombie provided in this thread. $31.00 delivered Sydney. Up to 10 days delivery time. Just perfect.

If I do not report back, you can assume that it all went well.

As always, the decision support provided at the Forum is superb. Thank you everyone.

[DieselLSE]

For those who like the idea of fitting a failsafe lever that looks factory fitted, then this kit from LRP is worth considering:
LRP Upper tailgate kit for Discovery L319 - Land Rover Passion (https://www.landroverpassion.com/en/product/lrp-upper-tailgate-kit-for-discovery-l319/)
I fitted this a few years ago and whilst I've never had to use it in anger, it has been handy on remote outback trips when I've needed to sleep in the car.

[PerthDisco]

For D3 owners pushing and holding both door lock / unlock buttons on centre console pops the tailgate.

Yes the eBay ones work fine.

You can epoxy the captive nuts back into the handle once removed.

[BradC]

You can epoxy the captive nuts back into the handle once removed.

I did that once using 24 Hr Araldite and all the correct prep. I also post-cured it in the oven when the wife was at work. I installed it with nickel anti-seize on the bolts and nuts and last time I had to take it off it was a doddle.

The rubber on mine is cracking again, so I know it'll need doing soon(ish) and as I sold my last spare to a member here I picked one up from Aliexpress. If it lasts as long as the previous one I'm not doing so badly.

While I have the handle off, I have a wider view rear-view camera to install that'll give me a view of the towball when backing up to the van. Win-Win.

[PerthDisco]

I did that once using 24 Hr Araldite and all the correct prep. I also post-cured it in the oven when the wife was at work. I installed it with nickel anti-seize on the bolts and nuts and last time I had to take it off it was a doddle.

The rubber on mine is cracking again, so I know it'll need doing soon(ish) and as I sold my last spare to a member here I picked one up from Aliexpress. If it lasts as long as the previous one I'm not doing so badly.

While I have the handle off, I have a wider view rear-view camera to install that'll give me a view of the towball when backing up to the van. Win-Win.

Yes you sold it to me but I’ve had to do it again since as somehow I pinched the wire on reinstalling and it chaffed and wires were too short to cut and join.

This guy is based locally in WA I think

https://ebay.us/m/ga8sUg

[RANDLOVER]

I did that once using 24 Hr Araldite and all the correct prep. I also post-cured it in the oven when the wife was at work.....
I think the correct preparation involves cleaning it in the dishwasher.[biggrin]

[PerthDisco]

They are an excellent parts washer was used extensively on recent motorbike rebuild which wife allowed final assembly in living room

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250706/ef57834b100403757d1428927eafb308.jpg

[BradC]

Showoff! [bigwhistle]

We're about to do a reno and I joked about putting in a ramp so I could park my bike in the lounge room to work on it and the mrs nearly had kittens.

[DieselLSE]

They are an excellent parts washer was used extensively on recent motorbike rebuild which wife allowed final assembly in living room

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250706/ef57834b100403757d1428927eafb308.jpg

That's sensational. Where can I get one as good as that?
Wife, I mean.

[Tombie]

Showoff! [bigwhistle]

We're about to do a reno and I joked about putting in a ramp so I could park my bike in the lounge room to work on it and the mrs nearly had kittens.

Good grief man!!!!

You want a Man cave at the opposite end of the premises…

How the heck can a guy focus with “Housewife’s of…..” etc in the background [emoji1787]

[BradC]

Good grief man!!!!

You want a Man cave at the opposite end of the premises…

I have a granny flat, but it's full of machine tools and computers.

Need a bigger block.

[PerthDisco]

[emoji638][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][emoji638][emoji637]]I have a granny flat, but it's full of machine tools and computers.

Need a bigger block.

Me too but it has been converted from man cave to a proper bedroom now for eldest!

You haven’t lived though until you’ve built an engine on the kitchen table. (Everything was immaculately clean by this stage).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250708/c03bf9fcb4820e74b5e526761b1d175e.jpg

[BradC]

You haven’t lived though until you’ve built an engine on the kitchen table. (Everything was immaculately clean by this stage).

I've done that twice (RZ350 & R6), but I was single both times :)

[discorevy]

They are an excellent parts washer was used extensively on recent motorbike rebuild which wife allowed final assembly in living room

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250706/ef57834b100403757d1428927eafb308.jpg

Great job, do you intend to get it dirty again ?

[discorevy]

I've done that twice (RZ350 & R6), but I was single both times :)

Would 1 more make it a hat-trick?, loved my RZ350 but wrote it off when a SMIDSY turned in front of me back in the early 90's.

[RANDLOVER]

I had to look it up, a SMIDSY is Sorry Mate I Didn't See You, recently I have heard BANANA Build Absolutely Nothing Anywhere Near Anyone and CAVE Citizens Against Virtually Everything.

[BradC]

Would 1 more make it a hat-trick?, loved my RZ350 but wrote it off when a SMIDSY turned in front of me back in the early 90's.

Probably. I have a Ducati 748 & 996 on the go to round it up to 4, but that’s a bit down the life priority list.

[Jeffoir]

Yes, this happened to me today in the D4.

I replaced the switch in our D3 about 7 years ago. At the time, I recall that the removal of the handpiece was a destructive exercise. The plastic clips break off, rendering trying to service the microswitch irrelevant.

I enquired about spares today. For the D4, Land Rover only supply it as part of the whole assembly including numberplate lights etc. Quoted $538, which is way too expensive.

In the meantime, the tailgate will open, when pressing Keyfob and activating the hand switch at the tailgate, simultaneously.

Thank you Scott for the Ford Focus suggestion. Jefferson Ford said that the Focus Part is now obsolete from Ford. No longer stocked.

I have ordered a Discovery Mk3 / Mk4 (sic) tailgate switch from eBay at the Link that Tombie provided in this thread. $31.00 delivered Sydney. Up to 10 days delivery time. Just perfect.

If I do not report back, you can assume that it all went well.

As always, the decision support provided at the Forum is superb. Thank you everyone.

Hi Everyone,
you know where I said above…, “if I do not report back, it went well…”
Well, I’m reporting back. it did NOT go well.

As a reminder, the key fob will actuate the lock, so I am not stuck or locked out, but I wish to fix it.

The new switch is installed with soldered wires. Nice and firm. Could not see any corrosion.
there is 12volts to the wire, but it will not acctuate the lock.

I pulled the tailgate handle / taillight assembly out to check things. It all looks good.

I pulled the lower tailgate covers off to check things. All good there. The grey foam had been cut, so I suspect previous owner had replaced the actuator.

Could I please ask for suggestions on cause and guidance for next steps?

thank you all.

PS: I loved how the thread took a short detour on to motorbike rebuilds in the TV Room. Made me smile. Nice looking bike. Well done.

you will remember Josh Huber from the Forum. I dropped in to see him a year ago. He was rebuilding a Ducati. I can’t remember the model number. I asked Josh if it was “best in class?” In a typical Josh response, he just said: “it is the class!”

[BradC]

there is 12volts to the wire, but it will not acctuate the lock.

Ok. You have 2 wires. One has 12V on it from the BCU and the other is ground. When you push the switch, does the 12V wire go to ground?

If you short the wire with the 12V on it to chassis, the lock should actuate. If that's not happening then the problem is upstream. If it remains at 12V when you push the switch then the problem is either the switch, or the other side of the switch which should be connected to the chassis (ground).

[Jeffoir]

Ok. You have 2 wires. One has 12V on it from the BCU and the other is ground. When you push the switch, does the 12V wire go to ground?

If you short the wire with the 12V on it to chassis, the lock should actuate. If that's not happening then the problem is upstream. If it remains at 12V when you push the switch then the problem is either the switch, or the other side of the switch which should be connected to the chassis (ground).

Thank you Brad,

Edited: I removed the entire upper tailgate handle assembly.
Then, using my multi meter, I did some continuity testing and one of the original, thin LR wires, lacked continuity. I replaced both of them. On stripping the wire back, I found corrosion. See the photo. On one of the black wires you can see green corrosion powder.

Replacing the wire solved the problem. The tailgate now operates.

Thank you and best wishes to all,
Jeffoir.

[PerthDisco]

Great job, do you intend to get it dirty again ?

Yes! Maiden run was last weekend. Tuning to get the jetting right. It was very difficult to start on purchase but with new carby and complete wiring restoration it is starting and running beautifully now. Basically it came home and was stripped. Took gamble engine internals were good and gearbox ok from that one test ride and that looks to be the case.

I bought a 92 XR600 brand new and sold it probably 4 years later for the next thing but have missed it ever since. This is a 93 build 94 model but tank sticker is 91 and seat 92 style my personal favourites.

It will get ridden around the trails and tracks of the SW and good for another 30+ years. Amazing grunty single pot air cooled bikes with a fantastic exhaust note.

Before and After

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250714/679728f8b1f9dec08f56c912e57d249a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250714/00540a8568cf79e14cb23b612b654faf.jpg