SRS airbag light

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Folks, I have the SRS light glowing om my 1995 P38. Is there any common faults where I should start looking.
Thanks, Alan

[PeterH]

Hi Alan, funny thing, I have the exact same light popping up on mine!
If you have diagnostic equipment, often that will point you in the right direction.
It's a very easy fix, I've done this on mine several times over the last 10 years.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the SRS yellow connectors has worked every time for me.
1st thing is disconnect the battery whenever you are doing anything SRS related, I've heard you should wait a few mins to let the charge dissipate.
I have a 2001 model, so your connectors may be slightly different locations.
Under the seats you will see yellow wires and a connector, they are easy to get at, I would start there, disconnect and reconnect, I also spray some contact cleaner as well to give the contacts a clean, let them dry properly and then reconnect.
The one that always fixes it on mine is the connector under the steering wheel behind the footwell cover.
I take off the cover and it's easy to spot the yellow cables and connectors.
Once you clean the one causing the problem, the fault will go away.
It's probably just one connector, but I would do a diagnostic check and read the fault codes to see what is causing the SRS light to come on.
Hope that helps, I'm about to go and do this on mine!
Cheers, Pete.

[p38arover]

On mine it was the “clock spring” on the steering column that had gone intermittently open circuit. I could clear the fault but the next time I went around a corner, the light would come back.

Replacing it fixed the problem.

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Pete and Ron,
Thanks for the information, that gives me a place to start looking. I am going into work tomorrow and I will have a look on the Snap On and Carman scan tools and see what I can find. Hopefully not the clock spring but you never know with these old cars.
Regards,
Alan

[PeterH]

I did this on mine today, disconnected the battery, removed the cover under the steering wheel, the plug is easy to get at, a yellow cable with a red connector.
I disconnected the plug, sprayed some electical contact cleaner on both sides and unplugged, re plugged a few times to make sure the contacts were clean.
Allowed the spray to dry, reconnected the plug, reconnected the battery and the fault was gone, no need to clear the fault code, the SRS fault message was gone from the message centre.
Took about 10 mins all up, all good!
It could be another connector on yours, but that's all there is to it.
Hope that helps.

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Peter,
I was going to give it a go today, but I thought I would re calibrate the EAS. So I took it to work, put it on the 4 post hoist, put it up, put 1st set of blocks in, let it down and enter values into the scan tool, etc. times 3, almost finished and the scan tool loses communication. So after going through the process 4 times and still not getting to finish the calibration I gave up and came home. I will tackle the SRS light first thing in the morning, then I have to go see the Doctor to see about getting some more cancer removed. So that could slow progress a little.
Alan

[PeterH]

Oh how annoyiong, it just wasn't your day!
It's the small annoying things that can try your patience sometimes.
Good luck with the docs, that doesn't sound like much fun, hope it all goes well for you.

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Folks,
well it has been an interesting week to say the least. I had 6 biopsy's done for skin cancer on Wednesday. Doc said to call Monday to see how they go. I head off home in the P38, before I get home the engine light comes on. So Thursday when I am not too sore I plug in the scan tool and it says the LHS knock sensor is out of range and the air flow meter is also at max negative setting. So I replaced the knock sensor and cleaned the air flow meter and all was good. So today I thought I would try to reset the suspension heights. So I go to work and put it on the hoist and neither of the scan tools will talk to the P38. So I gave up and came home, and I thought I would do something constructive and replace the LHF window mechanism. So I am half way through this job and my doctor rings ( doctors don't ring with good news ) one of the biopsy's is a melanoma. He wants me in for surgery first thing Monday morning, F***. So there goes my next few weeks.
So my question is, are there any common reasons for no communications with the scan tool. I have sprayed the OBD port and the scan tool plug with contact cleaner. And I am still chasing the air bag fault.
I also have also a EAS fault. The vehicle is a 1995 P38 4.6, and it had EAS problems when I purchased it. So while I was working on the motor etc. I replaced the 4 air bags, as they were getting cracks in them. I also rebuilt the compressor and valve block, and made up and fitted a set of manual inflation valves. And when I got the motor going the EAS would go up and down sitting in the yard. The first time I took it for a drive it dropped down to the bump stops. I messed around with things and it seemed be working and I took it for another drive and this time it dropped the DS to the bump stops and the PS to max height. So I let it down and took it home and fitted an isolation switch and pumped it up with the manual valves. Any Ideas? I am trying to stay busy over the weekend so I don't dwell on the up coming surgery.
I also have another fault code, speed sensor out of range and the speedo is not working, so I am not sure if all these things are connected.
Thanks,
Alan

[PeterH]

Geez Alan, it's really not your week! Sorry to hear about the diagnosis, it must be a bit of a shock for you, at least it has been caught and they can do something quickly for you.
Wow that's a lot of faults all popping up at once, I've never had them come that thick and fast.
What diagnostic tools are you using?
I have a faultmate that I could not get it to talk to my PC laptop, after persisting with it, I updated the drivers on the laptop, and finally it started working.
Not sure if that is your problem though.

So you have had:
Knock sensor
Air flow meter
Window regulator
Airbag fault
EAS fault
Speed sensor
No speedo

Thats a lot going on at once!
I'm wondering if it's something causing the errors, I once had dirty battery terminals that caused all sorts of weird errors i would be checking that, also the condition of the battery.
The speed sensor and speedo failure would be related i think.
Don't let it overwhelm you, just tackle one thing at a time.
I'd get the diagnostic tools working as a first step, that will at least point you in the right direction.
It's part of owning a P38, you have to keep at them sometimes.
I usually do all the jobs during the warmer months, it's no fun underneath the car on freezing cold days.
All the best with the docs, I hope it all goes well and is over with quickly for you.
Cheers, Pete.

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Pete,
yes it has been a big day today, two and a half hours on the operating table to remove a malignant melanoma and a skin graph. But I did have some success on Sunday. I pulled glove box out and cleaned the OBD port and I regained communication with the scan tool ( I have a VDO and have a Snap On one at work). I also replaced the Wabco computer behind the glove box, Just because I had one. I also cleaned the P/S air bag connector and the Fresh/ Recirc door connector while I was in there. I got it all back together just before dark and went for a drive, and I now have a speedo. And the ABS, TC and Brake lights have gone out. The car drives a lot better with a speed signal to the gearbox and Motor. So I am pretty happy with progress considering I was trying to work with bandages on both hands, right leg and foot and on my back, from previous surgery to remove skin cancers. So now I only have the SRS light and the fault with the EAS, and I also have the book symbol on the climate control computer which is no circuit to the fresh/recirc motors. But it will be a few days before I tackle any more jobs.
Regards,
Alan

[PeterH]

Hi Alan, wow, 2 1/2 hours on the table would have felt like an eternity, I hope you are feeling ok today, it must be a relief to have that part over with at least.

Very glad you had some progress with things, P38s do respond well to a bit of effort, I always do my homework first, get as much info as I can before starting any jobs, that way I start with a good mental picture of what I need to do.
You should find the SRS light an easy one to do, it's probably just a matter of finding the right connector to clean.
The one under the steering wheel is just a matter of removing the 4 screws that hold the panel on and the connector is right there.

For the book symbol, you might want to try swapping a yellow relay over for another one in the fuse box, it could be as simple as a failed relay RL7 is the most likely culprit, the one closest to the front of the vehicle on the left hand side. RL6 can also give trouble, the next one back on the left hand side.
While you have the relay out, check for cracks or melting on the plastic surface of the fuse box under the relay, that might give you a clue as to what is causing the problem.
The solder joints on the circuit board under the plastic can crack over time with all the heat cycles and cause problems with the fans.
That relay commonly gets dark areas on the yellow plastic due to heat discolouration.
I just changed my whole fusebox over for another one and it has fixed a few things on mine at once, I posted about that last night.
You might also need to clear the HEVAC fault codes to make the book symbol go away.

Hope you are on the mend and not too sore and sorry!
Cheers, pete.

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Pete,
Thanks for your kind words. I will find out Thursday weather they got it al or not. I am a bit second hand today but that is to be expected. My Doc had to do some fancy knife work to try to get it all out and be able to close it up again. I have just replaced the fuse box with a new one, and that fixed the no start issues I was having. But I will try changing those relays as they are still the originals. But I am not going near it today at least, I don't want to pull any stitches, or risk getting an infection.
Thanks,
Alan

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Folks,
I did a bit of work on the SRS light. I cleaned the connectors for the D/S and P/S air bags. Light was still on. Next I cleaned the connector behind the R/S kick panel. Light was still on. Then I cleaned the connectors for the 2 crash sensors under the bonnet. Light was still on. Then I was thinking where to next. Clock spring or SRS module. The horn and stereo controls all work so I am going to try the SRS module first. I read in the workshop manual it is located under the console. So I looked but I could not find it. So I drove out to where my one is that I have for parts, and I followed the yellow cable back to a secret mounting spot under the insulation under the cubbie box. So tomorrow I will remove the module and clean the pins on the module and wiring plug, and see if that puts the light out. If not I will have to look at the clock spring.
Could the clock spring be at fault when the horn and stereo controls all work?
Regards,
Alan

[PeterH]

Hi Alan, did you clear the fault code?
Sometimes the fault might still be showing because it is stored in memory.

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Folks,
well I finally got the SRS light to go out. Apparently on the later models the light will go out as soon as you have cleaned the dirty contact. But on the early models you have to plug in the scan tool and delete all the faults. So after cleaning all the contacts and the light was still on I plugged in the scan tool and clear the faults and success the light is out. Now on to EAS.
Regards, Alan

[PeterH]

Nice one Alan, good luck with the EAS!

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Folks, well I had a great day today, the EAS now works. Things that did not go to plan, I now have an oil leak from the Right side head gasket. I have had the block decked and the heads skimmed and I used multi layer steel head gaskets and ARP studs and nuts. So I am at a loss why the right side one is leaking and the left side is just starting to weep. I am thinking I will remove the headers and tappet covers and retorque the heads up an extra 5 ft/lb. And then clean it all down and see how it goes. I am still supposed to be resting as I have a row of stitches between my shoulder blades, so I probable should not be pulling off the heads and replacing the head gaskets for a while yet. Doctors get cranky when you go back in with pulled stitches.
Regards, Alan

[PeterH]

Look after yourself Alan, yes the docs would get a bit cranky if you pulled stitches out!
Nice work on the EAS, what did you have to do to fix it?
Oil leaks are never fun, I hope you can solve it.

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Pete,
I had put a switch on the earth of the relay under the P/S seat to isolate the EAS in case I had to go through deep water. Trouble is I ran it through a relay that that was ignition powered. So when I turned the key off the EAS would get all these fault codes and stop working. I guess I out smarted myself. But it all seems to be working now. I am hopefull retentioning the head will fix the leak. I don't think I am up to replacing the head gaskets at the moment. And the next lot of surgery will be in a couple of weeks time.
Alan

[old dirt bikes]

Hi folks,
well I am still having trouble with the air bag light. I cleaned all the connectors I could find then cleared the faults and the light went out, for a while. Then I thought it was time to take it for a descent drive. So I took it for a run to the beach and back home, about 100 klm. Almost home and the bloody thing came on again. The scan tool is telling me it is the left side air bag open circuit. I have cleaned the connector, no change. I bridged the connector, no change. I tried another airbag, no change. I did notice that at the connector the blue wire connects to the white wire and the white wire connects to the blue wire. Is this normal??? I tried connecting white to white and blue to blue then the scan tool says air bag is short circuited. What am I doing wrong ?? Has anyone got any suggestions. I am so close to having everything working.
Thanks,
Alan

[old dirt bikes]

Hi folks,
I have removed the console and cleaned the contacts on the air bag module again and the light is now out. My new key I ordered from Land Rover before Christmas finally arrived. The EAS is also behaving. The oil leak from the head gasket has stopped. I fitted a 2 way radio and LED spot lights. I am currently packing the trailer to head down south to a dirt bike meet so I will see how she goes towing the trailer down and back.
Thanks for all your help in sorting out my P38. Alan Temperley

[PeterH]

Nice one Alan, thank you for the update, glad you got it sorted.
With any luck you'll have a run of no problems for a while now!
I tend to do all the jobs in the warmer months, so I don't have to crawl under there during the cold weather.
You can enjoy your P38 for all it is now, there really are a lovely vehicle to drive.
I probably should get a second key for mine, where did you get yours and was it expensive?

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Peter, yes I am hoping all goes well this weekend. I am leaving Thursday night for a 7 hour drive. I have just been out and aligned my spotlights. It makes night driving so much better driving with good lights. I got my key from the local Land Rover dealer. It cost me $478.00 including GST. Yes that is expensive but there is not many options when it comes to keys. I have one more operation to remove the last skin cancer coming up then I am finished with that for a while. Unfortunately I won't be able to ride any bikes this weekend, I still have a heap of stitches in my right leg from the last operation. Regards, Alan Temperley

[PeterH]

Hope the drive goes well and your last op goes well too.
Gee you've been having a tough time lately, hope that's the last of the ops for you.

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Peter,
well the P38 went good and bad. I had replaced the Knock sensors because the the engine light kept coming on with knock sensor low background noise as the fault. It seemed to fix the fault, until I was all packed up and heading out of town, and the engine light comes on. I cleared the fault and kept going. It was going well until I stopped for fuel then I had trouble starting it. It seemed to be flooded. Other than that it went well. With the seats down and the back loaded to the roof and a heavy trailer on behind with motocross bikes and extra gear on it I was getting 14.3 liters per 100 kilometers, not to bad. So tomorrow I will do a leakdown test on the injectors. Then I will replace the wires from the ECU to the knock sensors. I found the engine light comes on after I hit a big bump, so I think the wires must be cracked. They are very stiff from heat from the exhaust. I will get the stiches out of my right leg on Wednesday, then I have a week to rest up before my next surgery.
Regards, Alan