some advise on possible purchse

[roadkill]

Hi guys, nice place you have here

I am the current caretaker of a Series 3, ex army 77 model, that has been in my family for 18 years!

I do have of course a spare series 3 out the back, that has a few things pulled of it for spares, as every landy freak has, and have done the gear box twice, pulling it out and putting it back twice...a lesson in pain british style:lol2:

I have recently had a family (my son is now 8 months) and am a little troubled by the current vehicles saftey (you have to correct it on straight roads, and it pulls a bit to one side, never the same side, when braking, especially if you have to do it in a hurry)

i realise that this is all part and parcel of a 30+ yr old car.

So one of my mates is selling a defender, 95,4cly,tdi turbo with power steering, air con and a few other extras for $13,000, it has about 240KM on the clock.

as far as i know its all orginal and pretty straight

He has never done any hard work with it, and i have yet to see the books, as he has only put a about 40Kms on it, i hunt deer pretty much every weekend and would work it (when i can get a leave pass) and go to some pretty tough places, so i dont want to push it and kill it

I have heard that they can go thru enginres at 200 KMS and other things like diff stubs ect

What do i look for, and is it priced ok for the age and features of the unit ???

[one_iota]

Hi roadkill,

1995 suggests that the motor is a 300Tdi (as opposed to a 200Tdi).

Timing Belt wear is the big issue and is solved with various fixes..other wise:

200,000 km only is realised if the vehicle has not been serviced regularly otherwise try 500,000km...so a service record is the key.

The difference between a Series III and the Defender is significant...disc brakes all round and coil springs.

A distinct move in the right direction and still pre fly by computer technology;):D

[rangieman]

yep sounds like a good buy i bought my defender in jan and im more than happy with mine
i dont know where you are hearing this rubbish about the problems with diffs , stubs , engines ,ect oh mine has done 200.000 ks and doesnt use oil and runs like a charm

just go with your heart i did and im more in love with my defender than i am with the wife (hope she doesnt read this):censored:

[Walrover]

I have recently had a family (my son is now 8 months) and am a little troubled by the current vehicles saftey (you have to correct it on straight roads, and it pulls a bit to one side, never the same side, when braking, especially if you have to do it in a hurry)

i realise that this is all part and parcel of a 30+ yr old car.


Hi roadkill,

I also drive a 30+ yr old Landy. I recently replaced the standard 750/16" tyres and rims with 235/85r16s on steel Discovery rims which has transformed the vehicles handling.

I'd recommend to any series driver that they take the time to check all the steering joints reguarly by physically getting under their rover and shaking and pushing and pulling and hanging off, and anything else they can think of, them. Because they do wear and come loose.

A brake adjustment allways helps too!;)

The moral of this story is with a bit of TLC your series Land Rover doesn't have to handle like a.......... well...........series Land Rover.:)

[roadkill]

cheers for your input, i am a bit tight with $$ at the moment, l and just dont want to get a lemon

all replies welcome!:)

[JDNSW]

I currently drive a 1984 110 and a 1970 2a, so I can comment on the difference to some extent. The series Landrover does not have to have bad handling or erratic brakes.
If the brakes are in good shape - with reasonable linings and no oil contamination, and all cylinders working properly the brakes will be firm by modern standards but very effective, except when heavily loaded on long hills when fade may be noticed. They also need frequent adjustment.
Handling is adversely affected by worn steering links, swivels, relay unit badly worn, loose or with the arms loose on the splines, worn or loose shackle bushes front or rear, broken spring leaves, loose U-bolts or cracked or rusted chassis. Handling will be transformed with decent radial tyres at the correct pressure provided all the above are OK, but overall the handling and brakes do not have to be bad.

Having said this, the 110 is still a large step above the series as far as road going manners and comfort are concerned. The coil suspension will be much more comfortable and give better offroad performance than the leaf springs, again provided everything is in good shape. The 110/Defender gearboxes are markedly quieter than the series gearbox, and the improved door seals mean less wind noise. The brakes are significantly better in that the disc brakes (all round after about 92) do not need adjustment and are more fade resistant and are dual circuit power assist, which your series 3 probably isn't. It will have power steering, and a smaller turning circle, both of which make it much more appealing in town. It probably has airconditioning which your S3 almost certainly does not.
On the down side of the 110 compared to the S3 - the power steering, power brakes and airconditioning add a large measure of complexity, and you will find parts are more expensive than you are used to, and often harder to find. The doors on post 1986 110/Defender are a lot thicker, reducing the available elbow room, never all that great on Landrovers if you are a bit on the big side, but the seats are probably more comfortable and are certainly more adjustable.
Hope this helps,
John

[bluetongue]

Roadkill,

If you have little ones, and you get yourself a defender, just to let you know that you may need anchor points. I bought a 2nd hand bar for my TD5 for 75 bucks, and I'm sure previous owner has a 300 tdi (not sure what year model... I guess body-wise, defender is a defender no matter what the year).

This 'bar' just bolts into existing holes in the back and you're good to go.... without aulro it could have cost me over a thousand bucks.

Anyway, if you end up down that track... here's a link to get you started. Otherwise, send me a PM for more info.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=27781&highlight=child+anchor


... Scott

[DeeJay]

I agree with JDNSW and maybe as little as $1000 spent on brake drums, linings, maybe ball joints etc will bring your series back to what it should be. It is not really part and parcel of the vehicles age.
The brakes are the major difference from a series to Defender in my opinion, maybe Power steering if your wife wants to drive it.
Of course you have to balance it all up. Its hard to say whether the $13,000 vehicle will hold its value, it certainly has dropped to a point where it is great value,heck, I would buy it if my County went up in flames all of a sudden:angel:
If you spent the thou on the series 3 then I guess you would need to hold on to it a bit longer.
Good luck,
David

[roadkill]

Im hearing you guys, loud and clear

i could spend the grand on the old beastie, but would still be 35 years old and just as damn ugly ;)

What are the main problems to look out for in the 95 defender, from the research i have done it was a late 95 model as it has aircon and a good stereo?

i suppose im looking for the real nasty stuff like a weird screw that lets go at 270Kms and blows the engine....the timing belt has been mentioned, anything engine wise?

i appreciate all your time :)