Electronic Gremlins

[Andrew Halliday]

Hi There,

I have a D4 2010 HSE and i'm got a whole series of seemingly unconnected electronic gremlins, and I guess I'm hoping that people out there can tell me what's going on before I go around the bend!

The vehicle has cornering lights as an option and bluetooth.

These problems are intermittent and have been occurring on and off for over a year. They are:

1. An electronic clicking sound from the passenger compartment (?fuse box) , headlights flicker and then a warning light that the cornering lights are faulty. This has happened about a half a dozen times but in between there is no problem.

2. The car alarm randomly goes off. e.g in the garage. This is becoming more and more frequent and in the last week has occurred almost daily.

3. The engine immobiliser won't tun off. e.g car unlocked, car turns over but won't catch. new battery in smart key. Locking/unlocking car has no effect. only solution is to lock car, walk far away and wait 15-30 mins. Randomly fixes itself.

4. Bluetooth phone is down. No phone can connect (or find it in options). Have tried the following solutions from other forums. a/ Disconnected the battery - bluetooth worked but dropped out after 5 minutes. b/ Pulling the fuses 68, 67, and 64 which reset the AV system. This worked for about one trip in the car - and now doing this again has no effect. Have also replaced these fuses with new ones.

My car battery is about 2 years old. I have had a single flat battery in that time. Why it went flat I don't know - I was away for 2 weeks though. I recharged it over 2 nights and it has been fine ever since.

I'm wondering if there is a common issue that is easily fixed? Would using an OBD2 reader help pinpoint the issue? Loath to take it to the local dealer who will charge me $$$ just to diagnose the problem (which could be incorrect).

Thanks

Andrew

[scarry]

Checked all the earth connections, not just under the bonnet, but everywhere?

[Andrew Halliday]

Checked all the earth connections, not just under the bonnet, but everywhere?

No I haven't done that thanks. Does one just hunt around for them, or is there a list of earth locations I might be able to get hold of?
Andrew

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Hi There,



2. The car alarm randomly goes off. e.g in the garage. This is becoming more and more frequent and in the last week has occurred almost daily.



Not sure about the other items, but I've had this issue over the last couple of years. There are other threads on the forum about this - for me, it was the bonnet switch.
It started out very infrequent, but got more and more common (every couple of days). Very annoying, especially if I wasn't around...
I removed the "bonnet latched" switch (underneath the RHS latch), joined the wires and sealed it all up.

Good as gold now!

[Andrew Halliday]

Not sure about the other items, but I've had this issue over the last couple of years. There are other threads on the forum about this - for me, it was the bonnet switch.
It started out very infrequent, but got more and more common (every couple of days). Very annoying, especially if I wasn't around...
I removed the "bonnet latched" switch (underneath the RHS latch), joined the wires and sealed it all up.

Good as gold now!


Thanks!

[scarry]

No I haven't done that thanks. Does one just hunt around for them, or is there a list of earth locations I might be able to get hold of?
Andrew

Thought you may ask that,dont know where they all are.
Maybe search on here or other forums may help.

[Andrew Halliday]

A bit of an update...&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>Hunted around for a loose earth and found a loose wire - but brown and blue not an earth.&nbsp; Reinsulated with electrical tape.&nbsp; Couldn't find anything else obvious.&nbsp; &nbsp;<br>Reset the AV system by pulling the fuses again and wow the bluetooth was working.&nbsp; Took a call and made 2 calls but at the end of the second call the bluetooth crashed again.&nbsp;<br>After this the radio was intermittently cutting out and radio, CD and DVD buttons were greyed out.&nbsp; All the hard console buttons e.g NAV Home etc were not working.&nbsp; have tried to attach video but won't upload.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;

[Narangga]

A bit of an update...&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>Hunted around for a loose earth and found a loose wire - but brown and blue not an earth.&nbsp; Reinsulated with electrical tape.&nbsp; Couldn't find anything else obvious.&nbsp; &nbsp;<br>Reset the AV system by pulling the fuses again and wow the bluetooth was working.&nbsp; Took a call and made 2 calls but at the end of the second call the bluetooth crashed again.&nbsp;<br>After this the radio was intermittently cutting out and radio, CD and DVD buttons were greyed out.&nbsp; All the hard console buttons e.g NAV Home etc were not working.&nbsp; have tried to attach video but won't upload.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;

I have suspicions about the battery if the Bluetooth has died and the other Nav buttons don't work. In my D3 the audio actually indicates that it is shutting down when battery voltage is low. When my previous starter battery was dying I would get regular transmission faults after short trips and various other issues too.

Your issues could be related to something else but as I said I think the battery would be the first thing I would consider.

[Andrew Halliday]

Thanks Yes I agree the battery. I had hoped you were right. Had battery tested at battery sales and tested perfect. I insisted on a new battery anyway (seemed cheaper than any other option), and hey presto - everything works fine (system must have rebooted when battery changed). Phone paired etc. I drove to work car park (5 min) and parked for a few hours. Got in car to drive home - everything still works fine. Call a friend on the way - all good. 20 min conversation no problem. Park car in home garage and lock it - walk inside.
5 minutes later car alarm goes off for no reason. Turn alarm off and start car - no phone!!!! Turn car off and then ignition/acc on (I was still in the garage and didn't want fumes) and after fiddling around for 5 min I get a message on the display - low battery and the head unit shuts down - with a brand new battery.

I sounds like some sort of short somewhere - but I haven't the foggiest where.

I borrowed a mates code reader and there was an insane number of codes. Lots were repeated and were about lost communication with x module (for every module you can think of).

The most interesting ones however were:
U0018 medium speed CAN bus (-) shorted to bus (+)
B1C98 Left corner lamp circuit
B1D65 right headlamp swivelling motor circuit

FULL LIST IS INSANE:
U0001 high speed CAN communication bus
U0126 lost communication with steering angle sensor module
U0401 Invalid data received from engine control module / power train control module
U0010 medium speed CAN communication bus
B100D column lock authorisation
U0140 lost communication with the body control module
U0155 lost communication with instrument cluster control module
U0164 lost communication with heating ventilation and air conditioning control module
UO128 Lost communication with parking brake control module
U0159 lost communication with parking assist control module
U0101 lost communication with transmission control module
U0184 lost comm with audio unit
U0208 lost comm with the seat control unit
U0242 lost comm with the headlamp control module B
U0402 invalid data received from the transmission control module
U0422 invalid data received from the body control module
U2013 Switchpack
U3000 control module
B102B Passive key
B1B33 Target identification transfer
B1B01 key transponder
B1311 clock module
B10AD rain sensor
B11DB battery monitoring module
U0121 Lost comm with ABS control module
B1087 LIN bus A
B12C9 LOCAL INTERCONNECTION NETWORK BUS “E”
B1C53 front wiper intermittent data
U0018 medium speed CAN bus (-) shorted to bus (+)
U0300 internal control module software incompatibility
B1D65 right headlamp swivelling motor circuit
B1010 Video input C
DVD unit
B1C98 Left corner lamp circuit
U3003 Battery voltage
U3000 control module
U0073 control module communication bus off
U0300 internal control module software incompatibility
U2003 FIBRE OPTIC Communication bus

So i'm reluctantly taking her in to the dealer for a diagnostic assessment.

[DiscoJeffster]

Sounds like the alternator to me. Common issue.

[101RRS]

I would agree - every fault known to man comes up with a faulty alternator.

[Andrew Halliday]

Good thought but alternator replaced about 12 months ago. Also car starts absolutely fine every time.

Two interesting observations. When OBD2 device plugged in and testing battery with engine off: 10.0 -10.4 V (bad), engine running 14V.

When I go into "secret" menu on the UI and go to battery it also says 10.2V (when engine off). This makes me think that there might be an issue with the battery monitoring or battery management module.

Hopefully LR with their SDD software can sort this out and not break the bank.

[scarry]

Hopefully LR with their SDD software can sort this out and not break the bank.

You would be better going to a good Indie,such as Justin Cooper,who is on here and also the AULRO FB site at times.He lives in Tassy.
Send him a PM,there isn't much he doesnt know about LR's.

[josh.huber]

You would be better going to a good Indie,such as Justin Cooper,who is on here and also the AULRO FB site at times.He lives in Tassy.
Send him a PM,there isn't much he doesnt know about LR's.

This may be the best words ever given. Don't pm Indies such as him just call and turn up on time. Training is very poor these days for all businesses, the Indies make sure they know the dreamers act like they do

[rapserv]

No I haven't done that thanks. Does one just hunt around for them, or is there a list of earth locations I might be able to get hold of?
Andrew

.. have you downloaded a copy of the Workshop Manual?
It's about 5,000 pages long and has pretty much everything in it you'll want to know .. including complete electrical diagrams.
If you have the time, look at the various faults you are getting in relationship to the electrical circuits and you may find a commonality ... especially with regard to a common earth point.

(FYI D4 Manual: My Files (https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5mhvubw2bens1/Dis4))

[rapserv]

.. have you downloaded a copy of the Workshop Manual?
It's about 5,000 pages long and has pretty much everything in it you'll want to know .. including complete electrical diagrams.
If you have the time, look at the various faults you are getting in relationship to the electrical circuits and you may find a commonality ... especially with regard to a common earth point.

(FYI D4 Manual: My Files (https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5mhvubw2bens1/Dis4))

.. or better still ... purchase the Workshop Manual on CD on here from the Forum 'Shop'. I think it covers from 2010-2016.

[Andrew Halliday]

.. have you downloaded a copy of the Workshop Manual?
It's about 5,000 pages long and has pretty much everything in it you'll want to know .. including complete electrical diagrams.
If you have the time, look at the various faults you are getting in relationship to the electrical circuits and you may find a commonality ... especially with regard to a common earth point.

(FYI D4 Manual: My Files (https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5mhvubw2bens1/Dis4))


Thank you! This will keep me busy :)

[Andrew Halliday]

UPDATE

So its all fixed (I think). Long story that I will lay out in point form. As I can't criticise businesses I will simply state the facts for people to make up their mind. At the end of the day, all the comments made in the thread were correct.

- out of exasperation I took the vehicle to the LR dealer here in the south of Tasmania.
- I explained everything that was happening in writing including that the service screen was saying the battery voltage was low (10.2 volts) with the engine off.
- For $400 they diagnosed a broken bluetooth module, a broken keyless vehicle module, a broken bonnet latch, a broken turning headlight, and an intact electrical system.
- After rebooking the repairs they replaced all of the above ($1K for each of the modules)
-All was good for about 1 week when it started again (bluetooth still worked and bonnet latch and alarm fixed, but car still not starting randomly and flickering headlights and adaptive headlight warning still going off).
- return to dealer. $400 to have the car for a week and not find anything wrong.
- I became fixed on the concept of a short and the earth connection. I have limited abilities but the earth behind the relay fuse box looked dodgy. I tried but could not work out how to get to it.
- Took the vehicle to auto electrician (Tony Bennett/EFI Hobart), who within 1/2 an hour was on the phone to me describing the MELTED earth connection
- quick and cheap fix and the car now behaves perfectly. Lights, starting, bluetooth etc. Voltage is reading as it should which is most satisfying.
- So the earth was the problem after all, as postulated by many in this thread. I'm disappointed I didn't have the technical abilities to pursue this myself from the beginning. I'm also disappointed that this basic stuff wasn't picked up by those I paid $$$ who should have known better.

Thanks everyone and I hope this post helps somebody in the future.

Andrew


Thank you! This will keep me busy :)


Hi There,

I have a D4 2010 HSE and i'm got a whole series of seemingly unconnected electronic gremlins, and I guess I'm hoping that people out there can tell me what's going on before I go around the bend!

The vehicle has cornering lights as an option and bluetooth.

These problems are intermittent and have been occurring on and off for over a year. They are:

1. An electronic clicking sound from the passenger compartment (?fuse box) , headlights flicker and then a warning light that the cornering lights are faulty. This has happened about a half a dozen times but in between there is no problem.

2. The car alarm randomly goes off. e.g in the garage. This is becoming more and more frequent and in the last week has occurred almost daily.

3. The engine immobiliser won't tun off. e.g car unlocked, car turns over but won't catch. new battery in smart key. Locking/unlocking car has no effect. only solution is to lock car, walk far away and wait 15-30 mins. Randomly fixes itself.

4. Bluetooth phone is down. No phone can connect (or find it in options). Have tried the following solutions from other forums. a/ Disconnected the battery - bluetooth worked but dropped out after 5 minutes. b/ Pulling the fuses 68, 67, and 64 which reset the AV system. This worked for about one trip in the car - and now doing this again has no effect. Have also replaced these fuses with new ones.

My car battery is about 2 years old. I have had a single flat battery in that time. Why it went flat I don't know - I was away for 2 weeks though. I recharged it over 2 nights and it has been fine ever since.

I'm wondering if there is a common issue that is easily fixed? Would using an OBD2 reader help pinpoint the issue? Loath to take it to the local dealer who will charge me $$$ just to diagnose the problem (which could be incorrect).

Thanks

Andrew

[101RRS]

So you paid the dealer the $400 to diagnose a range of issues and had that work done.

Car still faulty so you pay another $400 to the dealer again - why did you pay this if the car wasn't fixed first time?

Problem turned out to be an earth - have you taken the car back to the dealer to get the unnecessary modules taken out and the old ones put back in at their expense and get a refund for all the unnecessary work.

Yes I am naive - but on more than one occasion I have done exactly what I suggested above.

[Andrew Halliday]

Yes sounds pretty stupid of me doesn’t it. As you can imagine, the circumstances weren’t quite like that. The second trip was made on the basis of the first being misdiagnosed and incorrectly treated. They would not release the vehicle until I had paid the $400. FYI the second time they suggested I replace the low pressure fuel pump and relay for $1300 as it had thrown off code, I obviously declined and asked for the car back. I was acting in good faith and It’s a sad sad state of affairs.

[Gravy]

Hi Mate

Any chance you can post an image of the culprit, would provide a great reference for other owners.

Thanks

[gavinwibrow]

Hi Mate

Any chance you can post an image of the culprit, would provide a great reference for other owners.

Thanks

Culprit is earth wire or stealer?

[ytt105]

Yes sounds pretty stupid of me doesn’t it. As you can imagine, the circumstances weren’t quite like that. The second trip was made on the basis of the first being misdiagnosed and incorrectly treated. They would not release the vehicle until I had paid the $400. FYI the second time they suggested I replace the low pressure fuel pump and relay for $1300 as it had thrown off code, I obviously declined and asked for the car back. I was acting in good faith and It’s a sad sad state of affairs.


I love this type of statement, "They would not release the vehicle..."
Ring the cops and tell them that your car has been stolen by the dealer! Because that is what they are doing.

They have no right to a multi 10s of thousand dollar vehicle because they want $400 from you.

Tell them to send you a bill!

[Gravy]

Culprit is earth wire or stealer?


Nice one

[DazzaTD5]

For the OP, dont take this as a personal attack.

The amount of time I have seen this sort of bull**** work carried out by a dealer. Yet it still amazes me that owners seem fine to ok with getting it in the arse while the dealer does nothing more than shoots a parts cannon at the vehicle until it may or may not get fixed, the owner runs out of money, decides to take it to another workshop.

The most recent one.
I had a owner bring in their 2014 Jeep Grand, 3.0lt diesel with a hard starting issue. It had been at the dealer for 6 weeks, cost $5K... and it left with the same hard start issue. I basically said are you ****ting me? I refused to touch the vehicle as I believed it to be unacceptable to have a repair bill of that amount and the fault remained.

This thread is the same deal, how many thousands is the owner down? when clearly a competent auto sparky found the fault.

[DazzaTD5]

I love this type of statement, "They would not release the vehicle..."
Ring the cops and tell them that your car has been stolen by the dealer! Because that is what they are doing.

They have no right to a multi 10s of thousand dollar vehicle because they want $400 from you.

Tell them to send you a bill!

thats wrong..
*A repairer has every right to hold a vehicle until the bill is paid.
*If a owner takes a vehicle after being requested to pay the bill, the repairer actually has the right to phone the Police and say its been stolen.

*Do you shop at Coles and tell them to send you the bill at the checkout?

[DazzaTD5]

Culprit is earth wire or stealer?

Posting both might help owners in the future [tonguewink]

[DiscoJeffster]

thats wrong..
*A repairer has every right to hold a vehicle until the bill is paid.
*If a owner takes a vehicle after being requested to pay the bill, the repairer actually has the right to phone the Police and say its been stolen.

*Do you shop at Coles and tell them to send you the bill at the checkout?

Yep. It’s spelt out clearly here

“However, unless other arrangements have been agreed to, a repairer is entitled to be paid in full for the repairs before releasing the vehicle. If you refuse to pay the bill, the trader can lawfully refuse to release your vehicle.”

https://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/sites/default/files/atoms/files/repairstoyourmotorvehicle.pdf

[ytt105]

I stand corrected!

As a teenager, I used to do a night shift pumping petrol, (back when when workers pumped fuel). The garage owner used to lockup cars that needed payment. He said he wasn't allowed to hold cars as security for payment.

He lived behind the garage, so I just sent the owner up to him!

Regards

[Andrew Halliday]

Hi Mate

Any chance you can post an image of the culprit, would provide a great reference for other owners.

Thanks
173552173553173554