A little bit more progress

[jedwards]

Hi All,
A wet and dreary day in Perth, Western Australia yesterday, so am ideal day to install the transmission.
With the help of my lovely wife, you do really need 4 hands and 2 sets of eyes, all went surprisingly well and it slid into place with the minimum of jostling and with no lost skin.

I thought I'd made a rookie mistake afterwards, when I could not get the hand-brake lever to slide in over it's mount, as the transmission mounts bolts were in the way.
After many bouts of load swearing, and the removal of several bolts, it eventually slid into place. However I wonder if this was a rookie mistake, as fitting the transmission with the hand-brake lever in place could have been a costly mistake, as I am sure I would have broken it off while lowering the transmission into place, as well as damaging the brake mount and possible the chassis.
Not entirely sure what the correct sequence is, but it is in and safe, and I am hoping not to have to take it out again in a hurry.

The clutch pedal connections all seemed to go in well, so brakes are next on my list.

regards
Jeff
Nedlands, Perth, Western Australia

[LR1953]

Jeff,
Nice pics. Obviously taken with a real camera, not just a phone. Question: in the shot showing the 3/4 front view, what have you attached to the front face of the harmonic balancer? Please explain? I s'pose you could call it a "timing disc", is it of your own devising?
Cheers, Rob S

[jedwards]

Hi Rob,
Its nothing more than a simple print-out of the timing wheel I found on the web (see attached)
I glued that to piece of thin cardboard and punch a hole in the middle to allow it to sit snuggly behind the starter dog.
I marked the critical timing points on that wheel and then used that to time with valves, static timing and to verify TDC markings on the fly wheel.

The critical timing marks for me were 114 BTDC, which I used to determine the the maximum lift of the #1 exhaust valve, which easily allow me to set the value timing correctly.
I also use 10 BTDC for initial ignition timing, checking distributor shaft alignment and TDC for everything else.

This is all set out in Kevin Spensor's brilliant series on Land Rover Series 1 Engine Rebuild, free on You Tube. Just search on YouTube for "Land Rover Series 1 Engine Rebuild 39". He explains it all super clearly.
Costs nothing, takes no time to make but is invaluable in helping to set up the engine.

[5380]

Hi Rob,
Its nothing more than a simple print-out of the timing wheel I found on the web (see attached)
I glued that to piece of thin cardboard and punch a hole in the middle to allow it to sit snuggly behind the starter dog.
I marked the critical timing points on that wheel and then used that to time with valves, static timing and to verify TDC markings on the fly wheel.

The critical timing marks for me were 114 BTDC, which I used to determine the the maximum lift of the #1 exhaust valve, which easily allow me to set the value timing correctly.
I also use 10 BTDC for initial ignition timing, checking distributor shaft alignment and TDC for everything else.

This is all set out in Kevin Spensor's brilliant series on Land Rover Series 1 Engine Rebuild, free on You Tube. Just search on YouTube for "Land Rover Series 1 Engine Rebuild 39". He explains it all super clearly.


Costs nothing, takes no time to make but is invaluable in helping to set up the engine.

Jeff,
A great idea for setting up, but do remember not to trust the timing marks after you start it. The outer flywheel of the harmonic balancer is rubber mounted onto the central boss and is able to rotate, as only the boss is keyed to the crankshaft,. That's why the timing marks are on the clutch flywheel/ring gear at the rear. I thought about putting timing marks on the front, but gave up on the idea when I found out that the outer wheel is supposed to be able to turn independently of the crankshaft. (see shop manual on balancer pulley set up)
Cheers 5380