D4 Traxide DBS video

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, I have posted up a SILENT video of a D4 Dual Battery Installation and would appreciate your feedback before I post up the full version.

This has taking a lot longer to do then was planned I would like to get all info needed in the full video.

Any suggestion and criticisms are appreciated.

Here is the link.

Test D4 5S - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO9LAzjsm3s)

[stuarth44]

yes suit me as my fridge is set to cut out at higher volts on the cranking batt

[gavinwibrow]

Hi folks, I have posted up a SILENT video of a D4 Dual Battery Installation and would appreciate your feedback before I post up the full version.

This has taking a lot longer to do then was planned I would like to get all info needed in the full video.

Any suggestion and criticisms are appreciated.

Here is the link.

Test D4 5S - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO9LAzjsm3s)


Hi Tim. Jut a suggestion after watching the end. Maybe show the correct flashing LED format/options to confirm all is well?

I have your D4-2U system recently fitted (no winch requirement), and unless I'm missing something, the dash flashing LED is a bit different to my previous D2 USI 160 with winch arrangement, and I didn't find any further info on your website. Just to clarify, I'm getting a 2 per second red LED flashing.

[drivesafe]

Hi Tim. Jut a suggestion after watching the end. Maybe show the correct flashing LED format/options to confirm all is well?

I have your D4-2U system recently fitted (no winch requirement), and unless I'm missing something, the dash flashing LED is a bit different to my previous D2 USI 160 with winch arrangement, and I didn't find any further info on your website. Just to clarify, I'm getting a 2 per second red LED flashing.
Hi Gavin, can you phone me tomorrow, something does not sound right.

To your suggestion, as soon as I have the full video done of the D4-5S installation, I will be making videos of how the SC80, DT90 and the USI160 work.
Thanks for the suggestion.

[Dudela]

Tim,

This looks good to me as I have only just got my kit and getting ready to install it in the next week or two (just have to go to town and get a battery) so this is appreciated immensely. Once I have completed my install will give an update.

[Blknight.aus]

just one...

might want to consider going bullets and spades... going spade/spade but reversing the male/female for polarity control can lead to some very fuse blowing moments when something gets pulled out and someone else decides to start connecting things.

[drivesafe]

Tim,

This looks good to me as I have only just got my kit and getting ready to install it in the next week or two (just have to go to town and get a battery) so this is appreciated immensely. Once I have completed my install will give an update.
Hi Dudela, I actually rushed to unfinished video to help someone who can not get access to PDF files.

So if it helps you as well, mores the better.

As soon as I can, I will post up the full narrated version.

[drivesafe]

just one...

might want to consider going bullets and spades... going spade/spade but reversing the male/female for polarity control can lead to some very fuse blowing moments when something gets pulled out and someone else decides to start connecting things.
Thanks Dave.

Over the years I have tried a number of different connection methods but so far, these are proving the most reliable.

[Tankmat]

Hi Tim,
It’s a nice trip down memory lane having installed my Traxide system years ago. I think this will be a great tool for a new installer but it’s hard to see exactly what you’re doing at times. I presume you will be adding audio at one point and this will probably clarify things. It’s fairly long so I think you could consider having chapters and cross referencing them to pages in the manual so people can pause and get more detail if required.

I remember a lot of my early questions were around how do I add a Anderson plug for a fridge, how to charge a battery box, how to add additional USB sockets, powering a UHF, adding a fuse block, adding a battery monitor etc. Might be nice to make a short video on optional extras or make modular wiring looms available on the website for those not to confident in auto electrics.

Keep up the good work and thanks for all your help over the journey.
Cheers
Dean

[drivesafe]

Hi Tim,
It’s a nice trip down memory lane having installed my Traxide system years ago. I think this will be a great tool for a new installer but it’s hard to see exactly what you’re doing at times. I presume you will be adding audio at one point and this will probably clarify things. It’s fairly long so I think you could consider having chapters and cross referencing them to pages in the manual so people can pause and get more detail if required.

I remember a lot of my early questions were around how do I add a Anderson plug for a fridge, how to charge a battery box, how to add additional USB sockets, powering a UHF, adding a fuse block, adding a battery monitor etc. Might be nice to make a short video on optional extras or make modular wiring looms available on the website for those not to confident in auto electrics.

Keep up the good work and thanks for all your help over the journey.
Cheers
Dean
Thanks Dean and the Accessories Video is a great idea.

The existing video will have a voice-over track added and it is a bit long but I can not cut much out of it.

This is why I intend to make a separate video on the isolators themselves and how they operate.

Again, great idea about the Accessories and might even make it a problem solver as well.

Thanks again.

[rdenyer]

Hi folks, I have posted up a SILENT video of a D4 Dual Battery Installation and would appreciate your feedback before I post up the full version.

This has taking a lot longer to do then was planned I would like to get all info needed in the full video.

Any suggestion and criticisms are appreciated.

Here is the link.

Test D4 5S - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO9LAzjsm3s)

Nice video Tim,
If you think it needs shortening, you could cut some of the re-assembly parts.

[John_D4]

Looks good. Hopefully you’ll mention to not connect the earth terminal until all the work is done.

Also, a video explaining the lighting sequence for the USI-160 would be a great help. So far I only have mine down for normal and I think up for when the fridge is on. A video will help to explain this better than the PDF.

[gavinwibrow]

Hi Tim

Sorry I didn't get back to you and to highjack your thread yet again, but hopefully my issue may now resolver if below is correct.

History
I have your D4-2U system recently fitted (no winch requirement), and unless I'm missing something, the dash flashing LED is a bit different to my previous D2 USI 160 with winch arrangement, and I didn't find any further info on your website. Just to clarify, I'm getting a 2 per second red LED flashing.



Hi Gavin, can you phone me tomorrow, something does not sound right.

To your suggestion, as soon as I have the full video done of the D4-5S installation, I will be making videos of how the SC80, DT90 and the USI160 work.
Thanks for the suggestion.

After a fortnight of the above, I fiddled and moved the control switch to and away from the LED a few times.

With the switch in the away position, I now have 5 quick reds and a longer green whilst driving, and for the moment 4 quick reds and a green with ignition only on.
After all closed down I have the 5 reds and 1 longer green irrespective of switch being on or off.

If still something is not right (given that the auto electrician installer is still learning some of the LR intricacies/quirks), let me know and I'll call you at a convenient to you time (if you ever get such a thing).

Your support of LR and AULRO is legendary.

Cheers Gavin in the west

[drivesafe]

Hi Gavin and something is very wrong.

You must not have a USI-160.

It is either an SC80-BM or DT90.

If you get this in time, you can phone me tonight.

You are in WA so not too late for you but I will wait for your call, or phone me tomorrow.

PLEASE NOTE, use my new phone number.

0401 404 844.

We should be able to get this sorted pretty quickly.

Regards, Tim.

[gavinwibrow]

Hi Gavin and something is very wrong.

You must not have a USI-160.

It is either an SC80-BM or DT90.

If you get this in time, you can phone me tonight.

You are in WA so not too late for you but I will wait for your call, or phone me tomorrow.

PLEASE NOTE, use my new phone number.

0401 404 844.

We should be able to get this sorted pretty quickly.

Regards, Tim.

No USI-160 likemy last car - this time its labelled as a "SC80 plus in cab) for dual batteries.
Now that the car has been sitting for a couple of hours, it has reverted to 4 red flashes and then a long green.
Will ring tomorrow - any particular time?

[drivesafe]

No USI-160 likemy last car - this time its labelled as a "SC80 plus in cab) for dual batteries.
Now that the car has been sitting for a couple of hours, it has reverted to 4 red flashes and then a long green.
Will ring tomorrow - any particular time?
Anytime that suits you.

Have your multi meter handy.

[goldey]

Hi Tim

I am just about to push the button on getting one of your kits (no interest in winching capability so leaning towards the SC80 rather than the USI160).

Just wanted to find out though what size battery am I constrained to with your battery tray and the space in the D4. We have a 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE.

Regards

Goldey

[Tankmat]

Hi Tim, I noticed in the video (~22min) that you feed the main power cable between the plastic wheel arch cover and bodywork, is this an update as there is more room to run the cable there? In the instructions I received the cable was simply tucked under the plastic wheel arch cover but there is a very tight area where the cable doesn’t go in very far.
I’m about to run 6mm twin core for a brake controller and thinking of running both cables between the plastic wheel arch cover and bodywork.
Thanks
Deanhttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/69466e601832caf192082327b165ae59.jpg

[drivesafe]

Hi Dean, the video is based on the latest info supplied to me ( about two years ago now ) by customer feedback.

The cable can still be tucked up under the plastic wheel arch cover, but there is easier access for the cable when run in the gap between the plastic wheel arch cover and the metal mount used to secure the door seal rubber to.

The Video has all the alterations supplied to me in feedback from many customers.

This is now the easiest and quickest version of the D4-5S kit to fit.

[drivesafe]

Hi Tim

I am just about to push the button on getting one of your kits (no interest in winching capability so leaning towards the SC80 rather than the USI160).

Just wanted to find out though what size battery am I constrained to with your battery tray and the space in the D4. We have a 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE.

Regards

Goldey
Hi Goldey, the new tray was modified last year and can now fit an 85Ah battery.

The battery part number is SSB HVT-70LD

Note there is an HVT-70D and an HVT-70LD, both will fit, but the HVT-70LD has the terminals located at the back of the battery and this gives it a slightly better clearance.

With the new bigger auxiliary battery you will now have around 125Ah available for your accessories.

[josh.huber]

Until i brought my new fridge I was thinking about upping my capacity. How much for a new tray for an old system Tim??

[drivesafe]

Hi Josh, if you have one of my older stainless steel trays, just remove the tray and bend the ends down flat.

These are the two short ends, not the front and back sections.

[John_D4]

Hi Josh, if you have one of my older stainless steel trays, just remove the tray and bend the ends down flat.

These are the two short ends, not the front and back sections.

The sides closest to the engine and the fender right?

[drivesafe]

The sides closest to the engine and the fender right?
Correct!

[drivesafe]

So Gavin got in contact with me and after a quick couple of tests, my preference for owners to fit their own systems was proven.

Gavin’s problem was caused by the auto elec who had PARTIALLY installed Gavin’s Traxide kit.

Gavin had purchased the kit some time before the kit’s cabling was modified to allow for the use of the larger auxiliary battery, but Gavin had purchased the new bigger auxiliary battery and given to lot to the auto electrician to fit.

But by fitting the new bigger auxiliary battery meant that one cable, running from the isolator to the auxiliary battery’s positive ( + ) terminal, was 10cm shorter than needed.

So the auto elec just didn’t bother to make a slightly longer cable, and just left the cable unconnected?????????????.

Fortunately, the isolator indicated to Gavin that he had a problem.

PLEASE FOLKS, these kits are easy to fit, and the new kits are even easier to fit, plus there is now the video to help, and the kits are specifically designed for DIYers to fit themselves.

Plus I am just a phone call away if you need assistance.

[gavinwibrow]

So Gavin got in contact with me and after a quick couple of tests, my preference for owners to fit their own systems was proven.

Gavin’s problem was caused by the auto elec who had PARTIALLY installed Gavin’s Traxide kit.

Gavin had purchased the kit some time before the kit’s cabling was modified to allow for the use of the larger auxiliary battery, but Gavin had purchased the new bigger auxiliary battery and given to lot to the auto electrician to fit.

But by fitting the new bigger auxiliary battery meant that one cable, running from the isolator to the auxiliary battery’s positive ( + ) terminal, was 10cm shorter than needed.

So the auto elec just didn’t bother to make a slightly longer cable, and just left the cable unconnected?????????????.

Fortunately, the isolator indicated to Gavin that he had a problem.

PLEASE FOLKS, these kits are easy to fit, and the new kits are even easier to fit, plus there is now the video to help, and the kits are specifically designed for DIYers to fit themselves.

Plus I am just a phone call away if you need assistance.


My bro and I were extremely impressed. 2 minutes on the phone to Tim and he diagnosed the problem (which was hidden under another wire so the uninitiated could not see it). The man is a dead set legend, quite apart from being such a strong supporter of aulro and we mad LR types.

[drivesafe]

Hi again folks and if you buy one of my kits, please fit the kit yourself.

A short time ago I had a call from a customer who had bought his kit a few months back, and had an auto electrician fit the kit for him.

He was getting ready for a big trip.

He is now on his big trip and the morning after this first night camping, his fridge had turned off during the night.

He rang me as he thought the fridge should have run for a few days. Which it should!

Checked to make sure the switch on In-Cab module was set correctly, set away from the LED, and it was and he told me they had done 6 hours of driving the day before.

He has two BM2 Bluetooth Battery Monitors fitted. one on each battery, and they were showing both batteries were sitting at 12.4v


So the fridge should still be running?


He told me he had the auto elec fit his kit and got the auto elec to fit the new power socket, that is supplied with the kit, mounted on the same side, and next to the original Land Rover power socket.

I asked him which socket his fridge was plugged into?

It was in the Land Rover power socket.

I suggested that may be this socket had not been rewired!


5 minutes after the first phone call, he rings me back and tells me he jumped in the back of his D4 and and locked it.

Sure enough, the fridge stopped.

He moved the fridge plug to the new socket and it started up again.

He had planned to use both sockets while camping but will now be restricted to only one socket while camping till he gets home and rewires the original socket.


I’m lost for words. How can a so called professional do such a slack job.

If you fit these kits yourself, you will not be caught short.

[Tankmat]

The cable can still be tucked up under the plastic wheel arch cover, but there is easier access for the cable when run in the gap between the plastic wheel arch cover and the metal mount used to secure the door seal rubber to.

Hi Tim, I had a look at running cable in the gap but found that the plastic trim has support legs that sit hard against the metal chassis and occupy most of the available room (see picture). I placed a small piece of 6B&S twin core in the gap and it occupied most of the room (see picture), thought it might interfere with the door seal replacement. If 6B&S twin core fits I can’t see there would be any additional room for further cables. I also found it hard to feed the yellow tongue from the jack compartment to the gap in the passenger door, kept getting caught on components (keyless entry module ?). Managed to feed the yellow tongue the other way from the passengers door gap to the jack compartment. So in the end I preferred (found it easier) to just tuck the cable up under the plastic wheel arch cover. So am I missing something? Would love to hear your feedback.
Cheers,
Deanhttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/c57e1ed92f84e12abc7e04512cbd95fa.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/e6225536d26b62ac7edaae8a426f09e5.jpg