Towing a D3 /D4 ?

[Bulletman]

Gday All,

Just a general question which I am sure the answer is the same as towing any auto vehicle, but , can you tow a D3/D4 any distance at all or is it flat bed only.

Just completed a close on 5000km trip and it had me wondering what would happen if you were stuck somewhere could you be towed to a roadhouse or nearby town . Could be a very long wait wether it be a Land Rover or any brand vehicle as most are auto these days I would imagine.

Cheers Bulletman

[DieselLSE]

4 Wheel Towing
CAUTIONS:
Suspended towing of this vehicle MUST NOT be attempted, if 4 wheel towing is not possible, vehicle must
be recovered on a suitable trailer.
The vehicle may be towed for a maximum of 3 hours or 90 miles (150 km) at a maximum speed of 30 mph
(50 km/h), these limits MUST NOT be exceeded.
The following procedures must be followed to ensure that the vehicle is towed in a safe condition and
damage to the vehicle transmission system is prevented.
1. Remove the front towing/lashing eye access panel.
2. Secure the towing attachment from the recovery vehicle to the towing/lashing eye.
CAUTION: Ensure that the towing attachment will not contact the front bumper during towing.
3. Apply the parking brake.
4. Insert ignition key and turn the ignition switch to position 'II'.
5. Manual gearbox: Apply the footbrake and position the gear lever in 'N' - Neutral.
CAUTION: If 'N' - Neutral cannot be selected, front and rear propeller shafts must be removed before
vehicle is towed.
6. Automatic gearbox: Apply the footbrake and move the selector lever to the 'N' Neutral position.
NOTE: If electrical power is not available, use the manual interlock release tab on the selector lever to
move the selector lever to the Neutral position.
All vehicles
7. Select 'H' - HIGH on the transfer box.
CAUTION: If electrical power is not available, and 'H' - HIGH cannot be selected, the vehicle may not be
towed but must be recovered on a suitable trailer. If, however, transfer box was in 'H' - HIGH when electrical
power was lost, vehicle may still be towed.
8. Release the parking brake.
NOTE: If electrical power is not available, it will be necessary to release the parking brake manually using
the following procedures:
9. Lift out the coin tray from the centre console
10. Remove the access panel from the centre console.
11. Locate the electric parking brake release cable, insert a suitable tool through the cable eye and pull the cable
upwards to release the parking brake.
CAUTION: The electric parking brake will not function until electrical power is restored it will, therefore, be
necessary to chock the wheels when vehicle is at a standstill.
WARNING: Do not release the parking brake until towing is about to commence. Whilst towing, do not
attempt to remove the ignition key and do not turn the key to any position other than 'II'. With the engine
switched off, the power assisted steering system and brake booster will be inoperative thereby resulting in an
increase in the effort required to turn the steering wheel and apply the brakes.
CAUTION: The vehicle tow connections should only be used in normal road conditions, 'snatch' recovery
must be avoided.
On completion of 4 wheel towing
1. Apply the parking brake or if electrical power is not available, securely chock the wheels.
2. Detach towing equipment from towing/lashing eyes.
3. Fit the towing eye access panel and secure the toggle fasteners.
Transporting by trailer
CAUTION: Use the towing/lashing eyes at the front and rear of the vehicle, DO NOT secure lashing hooks or
restraints to any other part of the vehicle.
Position the vehicle, apply the parking brake and select 'N' - Neutral on the manual or automatic gearbox
selector lever
CAUTION: If electrical power is not available and the parking brake is released, it will not be possible to reapply the parking brake. It will, therefore be necessary to select 1st gear - manual gearbox or 'P' Park - automatic gearbox and ensure that the vehicle wheels are adequately chocked to prevent vehicle movement

[Falcon500]

That's some good info there, thanks for that DieselLSE.

I wonder if you removed the front and rear prop shafts on an auto would you then be able to flat tow without those speed and time constraints? I guess it would prevent the transfer case and transmission from turning. Diffs would still turn but not sure if that's such an issue? If anyone can answer that would be really good to know. I've often wondered what to do if I broke down on some track far from home....apart from calling RACV 😁

[DieselLSE]

That's some good info there, thanks for that DieselLSE.

I wonder if you removed the front and rear prop shafts on an auto would you then be able to flat tow without those speed and time constraints? I guess it would prevent the transfer case and transmission from turning. Diffs would still turn but not sure if that's such an issue? If anyone can answer that would be really good to know. I've often wondered what to do if I broke down on some track far from home....apart from calling RACV 😁
Yes, I wondered about that, too. The above instructions (taken from the workshop manual) mention removing the prop shafts on the manual only. Why not do the same on an auto? Also, the later models with the stop/start button don't have a "position 2" and the ignition will time out if the engine isn't running. I presume you only need it on to turn the steering wheel and operate the brakes if the engine won't run. But, presumably, you need a tow because the engine won't run anyway!

[Bulletman]

Interesting info, you wonder why it can only be towed a certain distance, one would think if it can be towed , then distance shouldn't be an issue, but still 150ks should get you to the next town , even if its somewhere to be able to get some sort of accommodation and a phone .

Bulletman

[Falcon500]

Yes, I wondered about that, too. The above instructions (taken from the workshop manual) mention removing the prop shafts on the manual only. Why not do the same on an auto? Also, the later models with the stop/start button don't have a "position 2" and the ignition will time out if the engine isn't running. I presume you only need it on to turn the steering wheel and operate the brakes if the engine won't run. But, presumably, you need a tow because the engine won't run anyway!

Yes, exactly, it's only mentioned on the manual presumably to get you moving if the transmission is all locked up. All great thought provoking questions you have there. 😊

[scarry]

And for those out with people with Jap vehicles, they are the same, need to go through a procedure to get the Transfer Case into neutral,its in the manual.
If its not done, the Auto will be badly damaged.

[Narangga]

Interesting info, you wonder why it can only be towed a certain distance, one would think if it can be towed , then distance shouldn't be an issue, but still 150ks should get you to the next town , even if its somewhere to be able to get some sort of accommodation and a phone .

Bulletman

Interestingly my 2006 owner's handbook says a maximum of 50 km at a maximum speed of 50 kph. I am wondering if that indicates a change of thought by the time LR got to 2013, or is the 8 speed able to handle the additional 2 hours at 50 kph?

[Bulletman]

Interestingly my 2006 owner's handbook says a maximum of 50 km at a maximum speed of 50 kph. I am wondering if that indicates a change of thought by the time LR got to 2013, or is the 8 speed able to handle the additional 2 hours at 50 kph?

I am wondering if it’s more to do with the oil heating up and not getting cooled so they are guesstimating time/distance.

I could be wrong but the fact you can tow at all tells you it’s not a pumping issue so heat would be the next thing that will cause oil breakdown and parts damage... well that’s what my simple brain tells me.

Bulletman

[Narangga]

That's my thinking for both those points too, but why is the recommendation for 2006 a maximum of 50km but in 2013 it is 150km? :confused:

[Graeme]

Yes, I wondered about that, too. The above instructions (taken from the workshop manual) mention removing the prop shafts on the manual only. Why not do the same on an auto? Also, the later models with the stop/start button don't have a "position 2" and the ignition will time out if the engine isn't running. I presume you only need it on to turn the steering wheel and operate the brakes if the engine won't run. But, presumably, you need a tow because the engine won't run anyway!The steering lock will engage once the ignition times-out, assuming that the lock hasn't previously been disabled in the CCF as I did on my D4 and have also done on my L322.

[RANDLOVER]

................. But, presumably, you need a tow because the engine won't run anyway!

Or the starter motor has failed, I think it is possible to tow start a D3 (not sure about D4) or even push start it down a steep hill in low range, I haven't tried the tow starting on mine, but have the started it by rolling it down a steep hill low box 3rd gear, which is what it seems to go to by default. That was on tarmacadamed, metalled road, on dirt the gentler tow starting in high range may work.