After market (no brand) Suction Control Valve (also known as VCV)

[iClick]

Are there any issues with using aftermarket SCV's? I'm trying to eliminate the cause of rough running (stalled once) when cold in my 2011 130 2.4

A genuine LR part is $249 however there are aftermarket numbers on ebay for between $70-120 (links below) They all seem to be the same/similar. Has anyone had experience or would be willing to suggest that it's okay to use one of these or could I be asking for trouble (as it connects to the ECU, I wouldn't want issues there)

As I'm trying to get on the road for a trip during the school holidays (less than 7 days) and most service centres are booked out, I will tackle the installation myself. I've read that some people get away with out a relearn but my preference would be to find a service centre who could do that for me.

I'd appreciate any feedback from the AULRO braintrust before I jump into this as I don't want to create a bigger problem! Cheers.

Links:
No name SCV (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/292575368044)

Claimed genuine Denso SCV (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114250125984)

[skidrov]

I have some scars ...err... experience here [bigsmile1].

I tried an "alleged" original Denso part, ex-eBay, when I needed to change mine. I think it was a cheap copy: it needed the body to be shaved for the electrical connector to fit, AND it didn't work - car ran really badly.

Can't comment on the actual parts you've linked - but I would be ESPECIALLY nervous of the cheaper one.

I successfully bought mine from Bell Auto in the UK - not the cheapest, but cheaper than original, and reliable. Link: Defender 2.4TDCi VCV FUEL VAPOUR VALVE - Bell Auto Services, BAS Remaps, Independent Land Rover Specialist In York , Service, Repairs, Custom Remaps York, Performance upgrades, BAS Landrover tuning. (https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/defender-24tdci-vcv-fuel-vapour-valve/) But I do note your time constraint.

Re-learn: you really don't need to do this. I did, but noticed no difference before/after. I used FORSCAN to do so ( FORScan Home (https://forscan.org/home.html) ). But again, as reported by many others, no need to do so. Note that if you do insist on a re-learn, and you are re-mapped, you will most likely need to go back to your standard map to run the routine, and then flash back to the after-market map.

It is a DIY job to install once you have a unit. Be VERY cleanliness-focused, make as much room as possible. My experiences (and a whole bunch of other fun on the way): FORScan Transit software - works on Defender! (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/268693-forscan-transit-software-works-defender-post2961925.html#post2961925)

...so, I'm probably not really completely helping. My take-away is it is DIY, don't worry about re-learn, buy a good-quality / known-quantity VCV/SCV/whatever-ya-wanna-call-it.

[iClick]

I have some scars ...err... experience here [bigsmile1].
.

Thanks, that sounds like some sage advice (sorry to hear of the initial trouble) I had also seen that thread you'd referenced and that it seems you can get by without a absolutely needing a relearn. I have a "Alive Tuning" remap which was done by Les Richmond Auto and I'd prefer to leave it installed.

I think that I've just found a more reliable after market SCV (https://www.dieselsystemsaustralia.com.au/products/294200-0360-suction-control-valve#cross-references)and it's in stock locally. They assure me that it's genuine, not a Chinese knock-off. I think I'll give it a shot and thanks for the detailed notes I feel it should go okay.

[skidrov]

Let us know how you go. If there's a local, cheap(er) supply for this part, that's good information! [emoji106]

[MLD]

The SCV (VCV) is common to about 30 vehicles across the Ford Peugeot range. Don't forget the Ford dealership too. Same as the 2.2 ranger and a few others sold locally. If i recall it was about half the price of the LR branded version.

As for the re-learn, i found my new SCV smoked on start up like it was single handedly trying to cause global warming. Only a re-learn was able to get it to stop smoking. It was good for 2 years, but recently started to smoke again and smells like its running rich. You can't be near the truck idling without stinking you out. If there is any mods in the ECU or you have blanked off the EGR etc, you won't get a re-learn to stick. I removed my EGR and plumbing and it's a bitch to calibrate even with the EGR plugged in.

[DazzaTD5]

The SCV (VCV) is common to about 30 vehicles across the Ford Peugeot range. Don't forget the Ford dealership too. Same as the 2.2 ranger and a few others sold locally. If i recall it was about half the price of the LR branded version.

As for the re-learn, i found my new SCV smoked on start up like it was single handedly trying to cause global warming. Only a re-learn was able to get it to stop smoking. It was good for 2 years, but recently started to smoke again and smells like its running rich. You can't be near the truck idling without stinking you out. If there is any mods in the ECU or you have blanked off the EGR etc, you won't get a re-learn to stick. I removed my EGR and plumbing and it's a bitch to calibrate even with the EGR plugged in.

As you have noted the SCV (suction control valve, etc etc, so many names for it) is used on many many vehicles.

general comment:
I only use the DENSO branded ones, the last ones came in a Nissan box. (I see added dramas putting in a poor made in china part)

Back to MLD:
Your running rich issue, smell, smoke, injector rattle can be caused by the high pressure pump being out of calibration.
You need to find someone that can do the pump calibration and SCV calibration.

Its almost like something goes-a-miss with fuel delivery or fuel return (such as a faulty SCV) and the ECU changes settings on the high pressure pump and never seems to correct it back after "fuel issues" are fixed.
I have done this on countless countless Defender TDCi 2.4 and 2.2
I recently did the high pressure pump calibration on a 200 series Land Cruiser that was suffering injector rattle. Not only did it fix it, it went like a shower of ****!

[DazzaTD5]

also...

*You dont need a standard tune to do a re-learn for a FCV (SCV, etc etc).
*If a re-learn fails for other reasons than stated on the diagnostic tool such as coolant wasnt at correct temp etc, then the high pressure fuel pump needs to be calibrated first then do a re-learn.

[Boots]

Hi iClick, just wondering how you got on with the after market SCV?

Boots

[iClick]

Hi iClick, just wondering how you got on with the after market SCV?

Boots

Yup - fixed the issue and has been running fine since. I did take it to get programmed however it failed but I haven't had any problems. I think that was due to running a performance mod.

[spudfan]

Our 2.4 had a Denso unit fitted. No relearn and going fine.

[skidrov]

Yup - fixed the issue and has been running fine since. I did take it to get programmed however it failed but I haven't had any problems. I think that was due to running a performance mod.Can you post up a link and/or contact details for the part/supplier?

[Arch]

I recently did the high pressure pump calibration on a 200 series Land Cruiser that was suffering injector rattle. Not only did it fix it, it went like a shower of ****!

Calibrated the pump? How did you do this??

[iClick]

Can you post up a link and/or contact details for the part/supplier?

I got it from this mob:
Diesel Systems Australia


3/15b-56 Keys Road
Cheltenham VIC 3192
Australia
0395534222

Link: Suction Control Valve (https://www.dieselsystemsaustralia.com.au/products/294200-0360-suction-control-valve#cross-references)

178438

[DazzaTD5]

Calibrated the pump? How did you do this??

Using my diagnostic tool, in this case Snap-on. I selected Toyota (something I rarely have to do).

Any decent workshop should be able to do this

[DazzaTD5]

doing a tune has no effect on if the scv can be calibrated or not, its because the pump needs to be done first.

So to go a bit further if you replace injectors you need to calibrate injectors, then the pump then the scv in that order.

Also if the Defender 2.4 is not bringing up a fault code and only symptoms of a failing scv you can often replace it without doing a calibrate.

[DazzaTD5]

at $130 for a no brand one its the same price or similar to a DENSO so why bother.

If you get a actual Denso boxed one it has 2 locating pins in it that are supposed to assist in lining it up.

[Arch]

Using my diagnostic tool, in this case Snap-on. I selected Toyota (something I rarely have to do).

Any decent workshop should be able to do this

I have techstream and a lot of experience with the brand. The only functions available are to initialise the supply pump and code the injectors. SCV problems were common in mid to late 2000s but updated parts largely resolved this. Contamination and non-genuine parts are the only problems we see these vehicles.

If the toyota software doesn't offer any calibration, I'd be keen to see what snap-on provides.

[DazzaTD5]

I have techstream and a lot of experience with the brand. The only functions available are to initialise the supply pump and code the injectors. SCV problems were common in mid to late 2000s but updated parts largely resolved this. Contamination and non-genuine parts are the only problems we see these vehicles.

If the toyota software doesn't offer any calibration, I'd be keen to see what snap-on provides.

I dunno, brothers 200 series cruiser (which is only 2 years old) was in my workshop one day, its always rattled badly even after the dealership said "its within spec" I simply went through the menu saw pump calibration, went through the process, you sit there with the engine running bringing the throttle upto I think 1500, then back to idle, you keep doing that until the engine light stops flashing, i think there was even a message on the display telling you its done. After that its didnt rattle, I really didnt think anymore about it as I dont work on them.

maybe the toyota land cruiser forum has better answers [tonguewink]

[Arch]

I dunno, brothers 200 series cruiser (which is only 2 years old) was in my workshop one day, its always rattled badly even after the dealership said "its within spec" I simply went through the menu saw pump calibration, went through the process, you sit there with the engine running bringing the throttle upto I think 1500, then back to idle, you keep doing that until the engine light stops flashing, i think there was even a message on the display telling you its done. After that its didnt rattle, I really didnt think anymore about it as I dont work on them.

maybe the toyota land cruiser forum has better answers [tonguewink]

Thanks. There is no way I'll be going to lkoolaid to ask. It is the worst forum on the internet.