Series 2a and a bit

[Mettalique]

Hi all, I’ve lurked on here for a number of years having bought a Defender new in 2013 then in 2017 bought a Series 2a 109 tray back to help me build a shed at our property at Mt Mee with a view to restore it later.
A bit over a year ago having built the shed and stored the 2, I started by going through it taking all the brakes and axles off, started to make a list etc. The general plan being to do a mechanical sympathetic restore without making a ‘prissy’ complete rebuild. When I was young my father restored vintage cars starting with a 1926 Morris Cowley, then a Buick Standard 1926 of course, then a rare 1926 (believe it or not) Auburn 4/44 then finished when he retired with a 1926 Hudson Super Six. The 1926 thing became a family joke a bit but it wasn’t as if he went looking for just that year car, they just turned up. But he pulled these cars right down to the chassis and made them like a shiny new pin, I rebuilt a Mini the same way from the age of 15 but as I’ve gotten older I’ve tended to appreciate the life a car has and once all the marks and knocks get sanded back, you lose that history. While I can fully understand the reasons for doing a full rebuild, it’s not what I wanted to do and so when I looked for a car, it had to be relatively decent to begin with.
172536172537
so this one came up after I’d looked at a few, one of which had large sections of chassis missing[bigsad]. But this was a diesel which I preferred and although I’d prefer to have an earlier 2a with the headlights in the centre it was pretty good chassis wise. A mate and I climbed around it and realised it had almost no rust at all, just in the left footwell a little bit. The owner told me it was from western Qld and I do believe that. I think he said he got it from a deceased estate and that there was a spare petrol engine ‘out there’ (more on that later). He also told me he’d sorted the clutch…he didn’t… and that he’d done the wiring…yep a rats nest…. But it ran and I needed something that ran to do a job for a while.
I got it home and added the ladder rack to the back and the sides to the tray. We live on a steep block and I was building a shed but needed something to transport all the steel for the shed down to the site below our house.172538 I did terrible things to it.[bighmmm] But it carried all the steel for the shed down to site. Of course I had to adjust the clutch it wasn’t done properly….it still wasn’t right and later I found the rear main seal leaked and deposited itself all over the clutch. And the brakes were totally buggered. I’d looked at them shortly after I got it and knew they weren’t good but they’d do the job for the moment.
So I finished the shed.
172539Parked the old girl in it. And left it there.
Roll on 18 months to COVID time and I started to pull it down to really see what it needed. Even at this stage I wasn’t aware of what I had here. Being a mechanic by trade, I’ve worked on these things but I wasn’t that familiar with the differences of the models. I knew the basic differences but it wasn’t until just very recently that I’ve realised that this is quite a late 2A. July 1971 to be exact. So it’s 50 years old this month. I was 11[biggrin].
I knew that and I knew I’d seen Series 3‘s older. Btw it’s a CKD. What I didn’t know until I started putting the brakes back together with new drums, they didn’t fit due to bigger studs (ok someone could’ve changed the hubs). But then I realised the front chassis bush was 1.5”. This apparently was only a Series 3 item, as were the uni joints being slightly larger. Then today I rechecked the chassis. It’s a Series 3. Pressed steel with a central seal weld.172542172543172544please excuse the photos being sideways I don’t seem to be able to correct this.
To sum this up. It’s a 2a on the plate and it’s a matching number on the left rear spring hanger. It doesn’t look like it’s been ground or changed, I can only assume it’s a factory match and they’d run out of chassis.
I also have a suspicion that this originally was a petrol engines car although I don’t know how to find that out. It does have quite a few things that are odd on it. Part of my life I was a vehicle inspector for RACQ and it was like a bit of detective work on some cars to work out what had happened to them.

Anyhow there you have it. How many of these are out there?
I’ll post some more photos on what I’ve been doing to it next time.

[JDNSW]

Put the chassis number into Calvin Clifton Scientific Text Services, the Netherlands (https://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html)

Will tell you what it started life as.

The 16mm wheel studs were standard on late Series 2a, although no exact changeover date is specified.

I thought the pressed chassis was introduced with the Series 3, but it would be perfectly in line with Rover practice for it not have been a clean break, and even more so with Australian built ones - with increasing Australian content it is quite feasible that the first lot of S3 kits to arrive was in fact completed as 2a simply because they did not have all the bits needed for the changes in local production. Or Rover Australia may have had to use Series 3 chassis to complete production of S2as because of loss or damage to a shipment, or just because of a screwup.

Alternatively it is possible that it is a replacement chassis fitted early in its life, perhaps because of accident damage. In all of these cases the number would have been stamped on the chassis in Australia.

[Mettalique]

Yes I didn’t think of a major accident reason but it could be. The studs and the Uni joints can of course be changed although it seems unlikely they’d do everything just because.
thanks John

[Xtreme]

Whatever it is made up from, it looks like you've landed a good one there and with your mechanical experience will give you many more years of service.
Impressed with your shed also. :thumbsup:

[Mettalique]

So yes looked up the Dutch website and it was a petrol. I’d like to find a bit more of its history sometime.

So going back to the strip down. Removed all the brakes. Two wheels had wet brakes one from brake fluid, one from gear oil. I sort of knew this as I’d checked them before but this time I just stripped it all down. There was a mix of bonded and riveted shoes which has set the tone for this car.
172578172579
Whoever owned it was a bit of a backyarder. A lot of half done jobs and things that really should not have been put back together. I wanted to check all the bearings and so pulled the axles out as well.
172584 The inner bearings were completely gone172585 and the signs were they’d been put back in like that so not sure how long they’d been running.
So I made a list. I decided to replace all the brakes…everything. Drums, shoes, springs, cylinders, the lot. Drum brakes can be inconsistent with their performance and I didn’t want something that was a guess about sizes of drums etc. the other thing is that Land Rover brakes are very cheap compared to modern cars so I gave it a 50th birthday present.
I replaced both inner front axle bearings. You have to remove the shrink ring holding the inner race to the axle. The best way to do that is use a old chisel and cut it spreading it slightly and then it can be knocked off. Then press the inner ring off. Putting it back together the shrink ring need to be heated a bit then it will just drop on.172586this picture is before I put the shrink ring on.
I only needed to replace one hub bearing set, one of the rears was quite rough. This must have been very noisy on the road.
.172587 The swivel hubs got cleaned up and greased, put back together.172588
About this point I removed the gearbox and engine, knowing the rear main seal was leaking and checked the clutch. Oil all over it…[bighmmm] but I sort of expected this. So new clutch and rear main seal and sump gasket. That was a tricky job. I know you can actually do this in the car but I’m at an age where lying under an car for too long is not what I’d call a fun exercise. So it got done on the bench.
172589
The Handbrake shoes got replaced and everything cleaned and lubed on the adjustment mechanism. A few times in the past I’ve come across some of these with either the wheel brake adjustment or the handbrake adjustment seized solid….a pet hate of mine….so it’s much easier to do it out of the car.
This also looks like it’s had a reco gearbox at some stage OR they painted it all when they dropped the diesel in.
Just like the farmers axe[bigsmile]
Next came spring bushes. Currently halfway through this. Still struggling with the left chassis bush. As a matter of course, I’m replacing all the spring bolts as well, most are fairly worn anyhow.

[ian4002000]

Next came spring bushes. Currently halfway through this. Still struggling with the left chassis bush. As a matter of course, I’m replacing all the spring bolts as well, most are fairly worn anyhow.[/QUOTE]

I found my cheapo hammer drill had a chisel tip , it made it a lot faster to get the chassis bushes out

Ian
Bittern

[Mettalique]

Next came spring bushes. Currently halfway through this. Still struggling with the left chassis bush. As a matter of course, I’m replacing all the spring bolts as well, most are fairly worn anyhow.

I found my cheapo hammer drill had a chisel tip , it made it a lot faster to get the chassis bushes out

Ian
Bittern[/QUOTE]

Oh I got them out ok and the RHS went back in with only a small struggle but the left side has only gotten halfway. I’ve run out of decent bolts to press it in…M12 is too small and breaks, can’t but 9/16”UNF booker rod so I’ve bought some 1/2” HT threaded rod and some decent nuts. Tried all the lube etc. I even linished this one off a bit.
But I’m a patient lunatic…

[Mettalique]

172692 I’ve really struggled with the left side chassis bush. Used all I could think of to wind it in. No I didn’t freeze them but I should have although the amount of time may not have been adequate to get it in. I even linished the bush a bit to help and lubed it up with Lanolin. Didn’t have any copper slip. Broke a few booker rods but in all honesty I didn’t think they would be strong enough. I gave up for a week or so….and my wife had the usual list of stuff[bigwhistle]… and then I ordered some 9/16” UNF threaded rod, but it was unavailable so I had to opt for 1/2” UNF with some larger nuts…really😀… they looked like U Bolt nuts actually.
172693 But the 1/2” worked. Even though I’ll need some counseling now it took only about 3hrs to wind the bush in the remaining 44mm.
172694172695 So now I can crack on with the next step.

[Mettalique]

172805
Decided today to remove the guards for better access. Luckily not corroded like some I’ve seen

[Mettalique]

Removed all the front and cleaned the engine area and up around the steering box etc.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/5109a5997e3d767901185b04a131726a.jpg
All pretty good so removed the pedal boxes. I had a master cylinder for the brakes so changed that and took everything apart and greased what needed to be greased.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/d529d190139546bc84ae3e536d6ac466.jpg
But the clutch is stuck. Looks like the pin is seized in the box, I drove out the locator pin no problem just like the brake but it wouldn’t budge. Currently soaking it.
Replaced the front uni on the forward tail shaft. Only one that had any play.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/6de4de7d01e0dbd0f9938c36ea76e642.jpg
Obviously needed doing.
I found a couple of cracks in the firewall behind the throttle linkage. Looks like someone has brazed these up in the past which means I won’t be able to mig them. They also added a couple more bolts to hold it all on the RHS. I’ll have to think about that one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/2e3ec0eb741ec8700395186438e0e69f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/a810b097537692a221202891e436f3b3.jpg
Then I tackled the only rust in the car. LF floor and up under the door stay tube. I’m guessing this is common coz I see panels for sale. But I don’t need something quite so big. Does anyone know the sheet metal thickness, I’m not really up with the sizes but looks like 1mm. Not really a big job just a bit fiddly.

[Mettalique]

Removed all the front and cleaned the engine area and up around the steering box etc.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/5109a5997e3d767901185b04a131726a.jpg
All pretty good so removed the pedal boxes. I had a master cylinder for the brakes so changed that and took everything apart and greased what needed to be greased.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/d529d190139546bc84ae3e536d6ac466.jpg
But the clutch is stuck. Looks like the pin is seized in the box, I drove out the locator pin no problem just like the brake but it wouldn’t budge. Currently soaking it.
Replaced the front uni on the forward tail shaft. Only one that had any play.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/6de4de7d01e0dbd0f9938c36ea76e642.jpg
Obviously needed doing.
I found a couple of cracks in the firewall behind the throttle linkage. Looks like someone has brazed these up in the past which means I won’t be able to mig them. They also added a couple more bolts to hold it all on the RHS. I’ll have to think about that one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/2e3ec0eb741ec8700395186438e0e69f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/a810b097537692a221202891e436f3b3.jpg
Then I tackled the only rust in the car. LF floor and up under the door stay tube. I’m guessing this is common coz I see panels for sale. But I don’t need something quite so big. Does anyone know the sheet metal thickness, I’m not really up with the sizes but looks like 1mm. Not really a big job just a bit fiddly.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/986de93ddbfdbf0ecbff016200cf1f73.jpg

[Mettalique]

Another thing I have discovered which I knew partly is that I have two different size rims.
I have 3 of 5.5” 109” 272309 and 3 of 5” 88” 261601
Not really Ideal.
So where can I get either two 5.5” rims or maybe go to a 6” rim and get five. I have some 235/85 16 tyre that came in a deal to get some Wolf wheels for my Puma 90 so I’d like to use them.
Depending on what you read 5.5” is or isn’t enough to take these tyres. Any advice?

[Xtreme]

Another thing I have discovered which I knew partly is that I have two different size rims.
I have 3 of 5.5” 109” 272309 and 3 of 5” 88” 261601
Not really Ideal.
So where can I get either two 5.5” rims or maybe go to a 6” rim and get five. I have some 235/85 16 tyre that came in a deal to get some Wolf wheels for my Puma 90 so I’d like to use them.
Depending on what you read 5.5” is or isn’t enough to take these tyres. Any advice?
I have two 272309 rims in excellent condition - no rust, cold galled inside and ivory on outside.
However, if you want to use your 235/85 R16's, i'd suggest you look for a set of Disco I steel rims - they are 7" wide and will take the tubeless 235's OK. I've been running that combination on my 110 for decades.

[Mettalique]

I have two 272309 rims in excellent condition - no rust, cold galled inside and ivory on outside.
However, if you want to use your 235/85 R16's, i'd suggest you look for a set of Disco I steel rims - they are 7" wide and will take the tubeless 235's OK. I've been running that combination on my 110 for decades.

Thanks Roger I’ll have a think about that. How much did you want for your rims?

[Mettalique]

Today I decided to have a closer look at the steering box and relay. I’d noticed one of the bolts holding the box in place wasn’t all the way in….well that’s a bit of an understatement
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/fb07456833bcbc0bbc6f8f0f39ddf13c.jpg
Pulled that one out and cleaned it up on the wire wheel. Checked all the others, all loose and none had the tabs turned up so did that. When a mate and I were looking at it the other week we noticed the box moved quite a bit when the steering wheel was turned so this will at least help.
Moved on to the relay, bolts came out no problem but the relay is stuck. Notorious reputation in place obviously.
Tried heat and WD40, lots of it, read some forums and watched some YT but not much help except that quite a few say they’ve done them in situ. So maybe that’s the way I can do it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/d6eb25e1b1f7e51cd2bf40953e4e2a62.jpg
I also realised I could at least replace the seals so took the top plate off….looked like a lot of grease inside.
BTW I forgot to say that the relay is quite stiff so obviously not lubed well. Should they be fairly free with just a bit of drag?
Anyhow I then looked at the bottom one
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/b1914c43137683f712fb64a576689d2c.jpg
Some goose many years ago has fitted this back upside down. The seal does nothing when it sits on the bottom of the spline[emoji15][emoji35]
So the current situation is that I’ve left it with some degreaser puddled in the top with a drain tin underneath.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/3e241a5b17ed3611631b5e8c4b94bd6d.jpg
I’m guessing it’s probably best to knock it out and let the spring go so I can at least clean it up. With it being exposed at the bottom like that for years it is probably rusted or full of muck or both. The joys of Land Rover[emoji51]

[Mettalique]

I though about this overnight. Went for a walk this morning, thought some more. Decided to knock the shaft out. The degreaser I’d left in last night hadn’t made its way though and I assumed it had been packed with grease. Yep I was right.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210828/cb6c43bc8c80d8b5c14d1f6b5b6bd06f.jpg
Tied an Aldi bag around it before I knocked it through….useful for something.
Cleaned all the bits up, yes a bit worn but it will survive. More worn at the bottom because the seal would have let water and dust in.
Went to Repco this morning because around here most bearing suppliers don’t open Saturday but they had no seals in fact the young girl looked blankly at me when I told her the size…our computer doesn’t have imperial sizes [emoji15] no matter I’ll get them during the week
So turned my attention to getting the housing out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210828/4d7768ac30eb09b9ae6228cc0e027c2c.jpg
Drove some wedges in and had it jacked from the bottom. Large block of hardwood and a sledge hammer moved it a fraction
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210828/9acb16cc901b1c4d6aff12e159f2e3e2.jpg
So I bought out bigger tools
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210828/ce81a121b770caef5f47c45a9039019a.jpg
Years ago I forged myself some podjie bars from 4140 and 5160 they come in handy from time to time.
This is a crazy design really. The housing is belled at the bottom but the hole it goes into is parallel so over the years all the road grit and dust fills the gap and packs itself in….hidden under the bolts of course so you can’t clean it out first. But then the only way to remove it is by pushing it up through all the #*§t and hope by adding more and more WD40 or Lanolin then it’ll make it slippery enough.
So you lever a little bit each side… I’m sure I walked a kilometre today just back and forwards.
At tea on day one the state of play is this.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210828/e2bb8a12d00c9393222ba8ea06ebef22.jpg
I reckon I’ve moved it up about 1” with maybe 3.5 - 4” to go.
Time for one of these🥃

[JDNSW]

If you've moved it that far, you will get it!

[1950landy]

When you work for a Land Rover dealer & have to explain to the customer why it cost so much to get it out , they think you are ripping them off. Had one once took three days off & on , lucky the guy owned the shop next door & would pop in a few times during the day to see how things were going.

Once you get it past the two side brackets you can start giving it a hit on the sides with a soft hammer to brake up the grains of sand & also rotating it back & forward & blowing plenty of air down the sides.

[gromit]

Now you've got it moving bend a piece of stout wire and you can scrape out a lot of the crud down the sides that's stopping it coming out.

Lubricate, scrape out dirt,lever.....eventually they come out.


Colin

[Mettalique]

Thanks guys, yes I’ve played this long game before on various things but it does test you. And yes I’m glad I’m not paying for the time. Stopping and looking at it helps😬 have a cuppa or 🥃 although too many…

[Mettalique]

Just a thought.
Has anyone thought of adding an o’ring at the top as you slide it back in the prevent most of the grit getting in?

[gromit]

Just a thought.
Has anyone thought of adding an o’ring at the top as you slide it back in the prevent most of the grit getting in?

Thought about it........ but they are unlikely to ever come out again in my lifetime.



Colin

[Mettalique]

Well day two.
Back to levering it from side to side. I cleaned it out a bit but noticed what looked like the tube has broken the weld.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210829/6cb1485e5783177b1399ca192e03f061.jpg
The problem being if it’s jammed, it moves easily when I lever it so nothing ‘solid’ to work against.
Kept at it but it seemed to slow down at about this point
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210829/1f87df6bc5d5fb56a19500f0841ede50.jpg
I thought I’d try heating it again after a couple of hours and that seemed to do the trick
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210829/e64350ce297f6ab4a918c45deb75252f.jpg
It cracked a couple of times then broke free…well when I say broke free, it literally did that. It’s broken the tube off and bought it up too.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210829/dc195fb11968c4909d47dff1d130b63a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210829/d0f8bf478f4f2500685774ceb3c8f388.jpg
So now it’s a different sort of job.
The chassis doesn’t seem rusty it’s just broken around the weld. I measured the other side hole (for LHD) and the ID seems to be 2 3/4” so I’ll have to find something to fit in there. 65NB pipe with a 3.2mm wall will be very close.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210829/c2e41d1702808ad8667803c0f29f6d02.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210829/ee9a7072b49b8830d573c9732877ff01.jpg
Cut the tube off the housing and left it in the cleaner to soak.
It shouldn’t be too difficult to repair the chassis. Not the hardest steel fab job I can imagine

[whitehillbilly64]

Mine did the same.
I just welded up the cut. Push it back it and welded it back in place.

whitehillbilly

[Xtreme]

Thanks Roger I’ll have a think about that. How much did you want for your rims?
Apologies for the delay in responding but you seem to have had plenty to keep you busy.
In answer to your question, I was thinking of 40 or 50 dollars each for the rims ex Sydney.

https://www.aulro.com/app/data/1456/medium/IMG_47361.JPG

https://www.aulro.com/app/data/1456/medium/IMG_47381.JPG

[Mettalique]

Mine did the same.
I just welded up the cut. Push it back it and welded it back in place.

whitehillbilly

Yeah that’s a thought 👍

[whitehillbilly64]

Lots of anti seize grease.......Its coming out next time needed.

whitehillbilly

[Mettalique]

Work has turned the corner into the usual summer madness run to Xmas so it’s taken my time but I’ve been able to source some Disco 1 wheel rims. I also had tyres to suit them…I’d done a deal for some Wolf wheels for my Defender 90 and got 10 tyres….so these have been fitted and the rims painted an off white.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/820e28ab5255a67fe9da38190b387903.jpg
Today I tackled the broken tube for the steering relay. After quite a bit of filing, and welding the cut, it fitted back in and I welded the joins. Very thin in places. I wasn’t able to mig the bottom so that was stick welded back in. Lots more filing done and painted it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/15bfe38094d5a9ec862b4b2209ec4657.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/cf5fe3723f659bb70315e64bd4b8e019.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/9e53a377ac3539feaeb0e2b519a04d75.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/8ecfe403946345299747c5d30b9e1f2a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/7e4a05242687ca2fbf3366b275ca252e.jpg

[Mettalique]

Next the steering relay. Replaced the seals, cut new gaskets, there were none when I pulled it apart. The bottom retaining plate was fitted upside down by whoever put it back together last so the thrust washer and seal did nothing. And it had been packed with grease which really just hardened and did nothing.
So now I had to make a tool to fit the spring.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/a1339cc261fe147e7e5ec15806be227b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/94d903a64cca5a9dedb6dfbc9555c5cf.jpg
But came to a screaming halt because I don’t have a file small enough to finish it off, so that’s tomorrow’s job.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/320514468bd445becb6ce2fd3dd37b74.jpg
It’s not in brilliant condition but at least now I’m confident it will be a lot less tight than what it was.

[Mettalique]

Finished off the tool to compress the spring
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/36a6e19a38e0674ca050bdfd0b50046d.jpg
I had to relocate the handle because when I compressed it the first time, there wasn’t enough space around to fit the tapered bushes.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/1aa1dc33a1d905e58e3929ab93c981c5.jpg
But it worked the second time.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/a1ab8f981d7424f5286846733a6b3530.jpg
Quite fiddly to get it to sit in as the bushes weren’t sitting down quite far enough but eventually I worked it out and it all went back together and then into the chassis. But even that was a bit of work because of the amount of movement the chassis took removing it in the first place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/637c29e7c838be5f253ad3cc4f6acedc.jpg
I’m slowly filling the oil in it. It takes a while to seep down in the grooves. The book I have just says inject oil but doesn’t say how much so I’ll maybe just guess.