Balljoint separator for d1 work: which size?

[dogman]

I will soon be replacing a sway bar end link. The balljoint separator I'm looking at comes in 16, 18, 29, 40, and 46mm; $NZD 30 .. 300

There are other balljoints on a d1 right? Steering rod end for eg?

What is the smallest that will do the sway bar link? Will it do other jobs as well?

[workingonit]

I will soon be replacing a sway bar end link. The balljoint separator I'm looking at comes in 16, 18, 29, 40, and 46mm; $NZD 30 .. 300

There are other balljoints on a d1 right? Steering rod end for eg?

What is the smallest that will do the sway bar link? Will it do other jobs as well?

I've used per link on all D1 ball joints. Should cover a reasonable size range. Joint makes a bang when it lets go. I wear safety glass and try to keep some coach work between the job and my head in case the tools tip shatters (unlikely, as I'm assuming cast steel rather than cast iron).

And if you eventually work your way to the steering note you should align the drop arm and steering box markers first. Steering rod, have the centre of the ball joint the specified distance from end of the rod. Correct ball distance should then give correct overall length. Ditto drag link, ball centre distances from ends of rod lead to overall length. No good screwing the joins in randomly to achieve overall length.

ToolPRO Tie Rod End and Ball Joint Separator | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-tie-rod-end-and-ball-joint-separator/377217.html)

[Homestar]

I just loosen the nut off then stick a pry bar in to put tension on the rod, and smite the other bit the joint taper goes into. 2 or 3 good hits will dislodge all but the most stubborn ends, and if that happens, use a bigger hammer. Once it pops, undo the nut and drop the tie rod out.

The component you'll be hitting is forged steel so was formed by much bigger hits, so a hammer won't hurt it at all.

Been doing it that way for 30 years.

[dogman]

Thanks guys - couple of good options there:-)